[Music] you
you
you [Music]
yeah good afternoon everybody I hope you
yeah good afternoon everybody I hope you are still fit I am after all these
are still fit I am after all these
are still fit I am after all these conflicts et cetera and so on and I
conflicts et cetera and so on and I
conflicts et cetera and so on and I would like to take you up today on an
would like to take you up today on an
would like to take you up today on an 8000 meter peak these 8,000 meter peaks
8000 meter peak these 8,000 meter peaks
8000 meter peak these 8,000 meter peaks on the so-called Death Zone why is it
on the so-called Death Zone why is it
on the so-called Death Zone why is it called Death Zone because you can
called Death Zone because you can
called Death Zone because you can imagine it’s maybe 25% of the oxygen
imagine it’s maybe 25% of the oxygen
imagine it’s maybe 25% of the oxygen content we have in here from 7,000
content we have in here from 7,000
content we have in here from 7,000 meters onwards so you can imagine it’s
meters onwards so you can imagine it’s
meters onwards so you can imagine it’s like a candle light when you take a cup
like a candle light when you take a cup
like a candle light when you take a cup and put it over that candlelight and the
and put it over that candlelight and the
and put it over that candlelight and the candlelight has not enough oxygen to
candlelight has not enough oxygen to
candlelight has not enough oxygen to glow and therefore the light is going
glow and therefore the light is going
glow and therefore the light is going out and it’s the same with our organism
out and it’s the same with our organism
out and it’s the same with our organism we are not made as human beings to
we are not made as human beings to
we are not made as human beings to survive beyond 7700 7400 500 meters we
survive beyond 7700 7400 500 meters we
survive beyond 7700 7400 500 meters we are dying sooner or later and in order
are dying sooner or later and in order
are dying sooner or later and in order to compensate that or let’s say we took
to compensate that or let’s say we took
to compensate that or let’s say we took two tools because you all have heard
two tools because you all have heard
two tools because you all have heard about Mount Everest you have heard about
about Mount Everest you have heard about
about Mount Everest you have heard about Basecamp and then you hear about cam 1
Basecamp and then you hear about cam 1
Basecamp and then you hear about cam 1 and ice fall and Camp 2 and cam 3 and
and ice fall and Camp 2 and cam 3 and
and ice fall and Camp 2 and cam 3 and say and so beckons force and and here in
say and so beckons force and and here in
say and so beckons force and and here in the end it takes about four or five six
the end it takes about four or five six
the end it takes about four or five six days to get up and to get down if at all
days to get up and to get down if at all
days to get up and to get down if at all if you make it at all and we said no we
if you make it at all and we said no we
if you make it at all and we said no we want to reduce our risk by the formulas
want to reduce our risk by the formulas
want to reduce our risk by the formulas speed so maybe taking a time frame of 24
speed so maybe taking a time frame of 24
speed so maybe taking a time frame of 24 hours in the case of monitor where we
hours in the case of monitor where we
hours in the case of monitor where we are going today 8163 meters high so a
are going today 8163 meters high so a
are going today 8163 meters high so a time frame of 24 hours where we said we
time frame of 24 hours where we said we
time frame of 24 hours where we said we reach the summit and gonna be back down
reach the summit and gonna be back down
reach the summit and gonna be back down but we not reach the summit but we still
but we not reach the summit but we still
but we not reach the summit but we still gonna be back down in 24 hours and the
gonna be back down in 24 hours and the
gonna be back down in 24 hours and the skis were part of it because it was
skis were part of it because it was
skis were part of it because it was faster security to get down quicker
faster security to get down quicker
faster security to get down quicker none of these mountains is made for
none of these mountains is made for
none of these mountains is made for skiing but where it all started and I
skiing but where it all started and I
skiing but where it all started and I thought I showed this little picture and
thought I showed this little picture and
thought I showed this little picture and the ugly one on the left here and I
the ugly one on the left here and I
the ugly one on the left here and I don’t know who has been climbing and I
don’t know who has been climbing and I
don’t know who has been climbing and I found me to peak already who wants to
found me to peak already who wants to
found me to peak already who wants to not yet
not yet
not yet but I was born here Munich as a fifth as
but I was born here Munich as a fifth as
but I was born here Munich as a fifth as out of six children and an eighth house
out of six children and an eighth house
out of six children and an eighth house meter P wasn’t Autopia as for the most
meter P wasn’t Autopia as for the most
meter P wasn’t Autopia as for the most of you but it somehow starts and you get
of you but it somehow starts and you get
of you but it somehow starts and you get it inside and you think you know it’s
it inside and you think you know it’s
it inside and you think you know it’s not from the Delta tomorrow there’s a
not from the Delta tomorrow there’s a
not from the Delta tomorrow there’s a lot of things happening in between where
lot of things happening in between where
lot of things happening in between where you have setbacks sometimes you have to
you have setbacks sometimes you have to
you have setbacks sometimes you have to go back and then you have to go then you
go back and then you have to go then you
go back and then you have to go then you have to get in again and so back and so
have to get in again and so back and so
have to get in again and so back and so forth and here and there and suddenly
forth and here and there and suddenly
forth and here and there and suddenly the first 8,000 meter peak was there in
the first 8,000 meter peak was there in
the first 8,000 meter peak was there in our style we succeeded and in 2007 we
our style we succeeded and in 2007 we
our style we succeeded and in 2007 we said we don’t go to Everest we go to
said we don’t go to Everest we go to
said we don’t go to Everest we go to manasu the eighth highest peak because
manasu the eighth highest peak because
manasu the eighth highest peak because there’s not a lot of people there and we
there’s not a lot of people there and we
there’s not a lot of people there and we found out soon why there’s not a lot of
found out soon why there’s not a lot of
found out soon why there’s not a lot of people there because it snows
people there because it snows
people there because it snows permanently and it doesn’t have a very
permanently and it doesn’t have a very
permanently and it doesn’t have a very good statistic a lot of people died on –
good statistic a lot of people died on –
good statistic a lot of people died on – loo because it stands there so very
loo because it stands there so very
loo because it stands there so very alone and we learned that we are not
alone and we learned that we are not
alone and we learned that we are not climbers we learned digging the whole
climbers we learned digging the whole
climbers we learned digging the whole day we learnt digging and digging and
day we learnt digging and digging and
day we learnt digging and digging and digging because it snowed and snowed and
digging because it snowed and snowed and
digging because it snowed and snowed and snowed usually we love snow skiers but
snowed usually we love snow skiers but
snowed usually we love snow skiers but at this time we didn’t love it anymore
at this time we didn’t love it anymore
at this time we didn’t love it anymore we really thought we are getting mad if
we really thought we are getting mad if
we really thought we are getting mad if you are stuck in the tent and for more
you are stuck in the tent and for more
you are stuck in the tent and for more than three weeks together and a team you
than three weeks together and a team you
than three weeks together and a team you get pretty insane you don’t have any
get pretty insane you don’t have any
get pretty insane you don’t have any chance to dry your clothes as you cetera
chance to dry your clothes as you cetera
chance to dry your clothes as you cetera et cetera and we were I wouldn’t say we
et cetera and we were I wouldn’t say we
et cetera and we were I wouldn’t say we wouldn’t be one not just frustrated we
wouldn’t be one not just frustrated we
wouldn’t be one not just frustrated we were really done we didn’t want to go
were really done we didn’t want to go
were really done we didn’t want to go back anymore we were really fed up on
back anymore we were really fed up on
back anymore we were really fed up on the other hand this goal remained
the other hand this goal remained
the other hand this goal remained I did a couple of other expeditions in
I did a couple of other expeditions in
I did a couple of other expeditions in between and and still it was – – it was
between and and still it was – – it was
between and and still it was – – it was still an open bill there was still
still an open bill there was still
still an open bill there was still something which wasn’t achieved yet and
something which wasn’t achieved yet and
something which wasn’t achieved yet and in the next picture you see why I was so
in the next picture you see why I was so
in the next picture you see why I was so fascinated this mountain stands it just
fascinated this mountain stands it just
fascinated this mountain stands it just stands there you get to NEPA and in a
stands there you get to NEPA and in a
stands there you get to NEPA and in a pile on 3,300 meters there’s this little
pile on 3,300 meters there’s this little
pile on 3,300 meters there’s this little village the last village there’s no
village the last village there’s no
village the last village there’s no electricity I think – data is by now and
electricity I think – data is by now and
electricity I think – data is by now and so on but you look up you have to take
so on but you look up you have to take
so on but you look up you have to take your head and really get it all you all
your head and really get it all you all
your head and really get it all you all the way back in your in your neck in
the way back in your in your neck in
the way back in your in your neck in order to see that mountain which is up
order to see that mountain which is up
order to see that mountain which is up there from out of the jungle where 200
there from out of the jungle where 200
there from out of the jungle where 200 birds are singing etc and then you see
birds are singing etc and then you see
birds are singing etc and then you see that 8,000 meter peak we also got up and
that 8,000 meter peak we also got up and
that 8,000 meter peak we also got up and we learned that you have to go slow in
we learned that you have to go slow in
we learned that you have to go slow in order to go fast this was one of my
order to go fast this was one of my
order to go fast this was one of my biggest learnings you have to go slow in
biggest learnings you have to go slow in
biggest learnings you have to go slow in order to go fast so real
order to go fast so real
order to go fast so real prepare and nothing is spontaneous its
prepare and nothing is spontaneous its
prepare and nothing is spontaneous its well-prepared you’re on the other hand
well-prepared you’re on the other hand
well-prepared you’re on the other hand you have to be flexible and you have to
you have to be flexible and you have to
you have to be flexible and you have to take into account that’s going back is
take into account that’s going back is
take into account that’s going back is part of the game you see and what a
part of the game you see and what a
part of the game you see and what a brown we’re kind of the glaziers is
brown we’re kind of the glaziers is
brown we’re kind of the glaziers is ending but the brown little thing is
ending but the brown little thing is
ending but the brown little thing is this is the base camp around 5,000
this is the base camp around 5,000
this is the base camp around 5,000 meters up there on a little spoon there
meters up there on a little spoon there
meters up there on a little spoon there you see a couple of dots this is for
you see a couple of dots this is for
you see a couple of dots this is for example camp one and we wanted to do
example camp one and we wanted to do
example camp one and we wanted to do everything from base camp in one single
everything from base camp in one single
everything from base camp in one single shot within 24 hours up and down
shot within 24 hours up and down
shot within 24 hours up and down this was our big target so we prepared
this was our big target so we prepared
this was our big target so we prepared we moved up and finally we saw again the
we moved up and finally we saw again the
we moved up and finally we saw again the summit we were out there and this was a
summit we were out there and this was a
summit we were out there and this was a maybe a situation or a decision that
maybe a situation or a decision that
maybe a situation or a decision that would better I should better say which
would better I should better say which
would better I should better say which saved my life here you see that big
saved my life here you see that big
saved my life here you see that big surface and in 2007 we actually turn
surface and in 2007 we actually turn
surface and in 2007 we actually turn around in that face because of avalanche
around in that face because of avalanche
around in that face because of avalanche risk this was the only attempt we even
risk this was the only attempt we even
risk this was the only attempt we even had in 2007 it was not a serious attempt
had in 2007 it was not a serious attempt
had in 2007 it was not a serious attempt we just said wow let’s try the least but
we just said wow let’s try the least but
we just said wow let’s try the least but we felt we are dropping a piece of paper
we felt we are dropping a piece of paper
we felt we are dropping a piece of paper and the whole phase would come would
and the whole phase would come would
and the whole phase would come would come in terms of an avalanche and you
come in terms of an avalanche and you
come in terms of an avalanche and you can imagine what it looks like if an
can imagine what it looks like if an
can imagine what it looks like if an avalanche comes so sometimes we have
avalanche comes so sometimes we have
avalanche comes so sometimes we have that stomach feeling and I never or I
that stomach feeling and I never or I
that stomach feeling and I never or I learned that the stomach feeling is
learned that the stomach feeling is
learned that the stomach feeling is maybe it’s maybe a survival factor it’s
maybe it’s maybe a survival factor it’s
maybe it’s maybe a survival factor it’s nothing I don’t know nothing else in our
nothing I don’t know nothing else in our
nothing I don’t know nothing else in our instincts this is nothing primitive this
instincts this is nothing primitive this
instincts this is nothing primitive this is something which is giving you I
is something which is giving you I
is something which is giving you I imagine sometimes like on a computer you
imagine sometimes like on a computer you
imagine sometimes like on a computer you play or you press a button and it gives
play or you press a button and it gives
play or you press a button and it gives you kind of an answer so we took an
you kind of an answer so we took an
you kind of an answer so we took an unconventional decision and put our camp
unconventional decision and put our camp
unconventional decision and put our camp spot on that little glacier Lib which
spot on that little glacier Lib which
spot on that little glacier Lib which was which was out of them let’s say
was which was out of them let’s say
was which was out of them let’s say normal route and we had to take into
normal route and we had to take into
normal route and we had to take into account an extra way of course we don’t
account an extra way of course we don’t
account an extra way of course we don’t like extra ways but we felt a little bit
like extra ways but we felt a little bit
like extra ways but we felt a little bit better I would say it came like it
better I would say it came like it
better I would say it came like it always has to come it started snowing
always has to come it started snowing
always has to come it started snowing and you can imagine every day it snows
and you can imagine every day it snows
and you can imagine every day it snows the summit gets further and further away
the summit gets further and further away
the summit gets further and further away because you lose time you have a certain
because you lose time you have a certain
because you lose time you have a certain timeframe not only for yeah the speed
timeframe not only for yeah the speed
timeframe not only for yeah the speed ascent but also for the whole expedition
ascent but also for the whole expedition
ascent but also for the whole expedition and finally it stopped snowing and after
and finally it stopped snowing and after
and finally it stopped snowing and after a couple of days when the avalanche risk
a couple of days when the avalanche risk
a couple of days when the avalanche risk had settled we’ve been back up again and
had settled we’ve been back up again and
had settled we’ve been back up again and in this picture here you see beyond
in this picture here you see beyond
in this picture here you see beyond 6,400 meters we are digging out our
6,400 meters we are digging out our
6,400 meters we are digging out our camps our tents all of the tents are
camps our tents all of the tents are
camps our tents all of the tents are broken you see in there you see that
broken you see in there you see that
broken you see in there you see that little dots in the back
little dots in the back
little dots in the back on their right hand on the middle on the
on their right hand on the middle on the
on their right hand on the middle on the right-hand science neither the other one
right-hand science neither the other one
right-hand science neither the other one ten years who are going on to the I
ten years who are going on to the I
ten years who are going on to the I would say traditional camp sports
would say traditional camp sports
would say traditional camp sports there’s no let’s say it’s not like a
there’s no let’s say it’s not like a
there’s no let’s say it’s not like a camping place where you find science he
camping place where you find science he
camping place where you find science he said there and so on and but this word
said there and so on and but this word
said there and so on and but this word about the traditional camp sports I
about the traditional camp sports I
about the traditional camp sports I would say since since the Japanese
would say since since the Japanese
would say since since the Japanese conquered the mountain in the in the 50s
conquered the mountain in the in the 50s
conquered the mountain in the in the 50s it was the first beautiful day actually
it was the first beautiful day actually
it was the first beautiful day actually I can say the first beautiful day since
I can say the first beautiful day since
I can say the first beautiful day since I had been there already in 2007 and
I had been there already in 2007 and
I had been there already in 2007 and again in 2012 and the night was
again in 2012 and the night was
again in 2012 and the night was absolutely when still and we were really
absolutely when still and we were really
absolutely when still and we were really dreaming of the summit it was by the way
dreaming of the summit it was by the way
dreaming of the summit it was by the way the Oktoberfest was starting it was the
the Oktoberfest was starting it was the
the Oktoberfest was starting it was the 22nd of September remember very well
22nd of September remember very well
22nd of September remember very well because we were celebrating a little bit
because we were celebrating a little bit
because we were celebrating a little bit of a super cold minus 30 degrees and the
of a super cold minus 30 degrees and the
of a super cold minus 30 degrees and the tents were broken so we had everything
tents were broken so we had everything
tents were broken so we had everything was ripped off so we had a clear view
was ripped off so we had a clear view
was ripped off so we had a clear view into the sky I mean this guy is right
into the sky I mean this guy is right
into the sky I mean this guy is right there you really feel you could fly out
there you really feel you could fly out
there you really feel you could fly out and that’s it and as you were thinking
and that’s it and as you were thinking
and that’s it and as you were thinking on the summit the first time I was there
on the summit the first time I was there
on the summit the first time I was there the first time I was there really to
the first time I was there really to
the first time I was there really to catch suddenly we heard a big avalanche
catch suddenly we heard a big avalanche
catch suddenly we heard a big avalanche anything what was that but the
anything what was that but the
anything what was that but the neverland’s is always happening and so
neverland’s is always happening and so
neverland’s is always happening and so on but suddenly a massive pressure wave
on but suddenly a massive pressure wave
on but suddenly a massive pressure wave we’re going was going through our tents
we’re going was going through our tents
we’re going was going through our tents and I said it was absolute wind still
and I said it was absolute wind still
and I said it was absolute wind still and then we were alarmed you get out not
and then we were alarmed you get out not
and then we were alarmed you get out not as faster usually you can imagine again
as faster usually you can imagine again
as faster usually you can imagine again think about that candlelight you’re
think about that candlelight you’re
think about that candlelight you’re really slow you’re it’s cold etcetera
really slow you’re it’s cold etcetera
really slow you’re it’s cold etcetera etcetera everything is frozen and then
etcetera everything is frozen and then
etcetera everything is frozen and then we said what’s going on there and
we said what’s going on there and
we said what’s going on there and finally realized hey something must have
finally realized hey something must have
finally realized hey something must have happened
happened
happened mmm we don’t know what but we merely
mmm we don’t know what but we merely
mmm we don’t know what but we merely yeah I decided to go in we were scared
yeah I decided to go in we were scared
yeah I decided to go in we were scared most of the time we are scared of
most of the time we are scared of
most of the time we are scared of something maybe I was scared before I
something maybe I was scared before I
something maybe I was scared before I started my speech here but yes we are
started my speech here but yes we are
started my speech here but yes we are not scared in situations it was the same
not scared in situations it was the same
not scared in situations it was the same for us and suddenly we were one of the
for us and suddenly we were one of the
for us and suddenly we were one of the biggest battlefields we have ever seen
biggest battlefields we have ever seen
biggest battlefields we have ever seen we were confronted with death death
we were confronted with death death
we were confronted with death death before and I’ll show you a little clip
before and I’ll show you a little clip
before and I’ll show you a little clip what happened there exist – form organs
what happened there exist – form organs
what happened there exist – form organs as an original Avena laga dry ominous Lu
as an original Avena laga dry ominous Lu
as an original Avena laga dry ominous Lu indeed he theorized no an effortless
indeed he theorized no an effortless
indeed he theorized no an effortless tundish better
tundish better
tundish better st. Benedict woman’s and him as a
st. Benedict woman’s and him as a
st. Benedict woman’s and him as a staffer for art
staffer for art
staffer for art cueball leading center our songs
cueball leading center our songs
cueball leading center our songs Kingston – where each side rent Madeira
Kingston – where each side rent Madeira
Kingston – where each side rent Madeira minuta sing the song snowy Belinda sufen
minuta sing the song snowy Belinda sufen
minuta sing the song snowy Belinda sufen won’t receive extra vote named schlaf
won’t receive extra vote named schlaf
won’t receive extra vote named schlaf von de la vie never hushed dramatic
von de la vie never hushed dramatic
von de la vie never hushed dramatic scene and trinsic up philadelphia
scene and trinsic up philadelphia
scene and trinsic up philadelphia shootin dragon Channahon schooi
shootin dragon Channahon schooi
shootin dragon Channahon schooi Cannavale mclaren mr. Marsh where sit on
Cannavale mclaren mr. Marsh where sit on
Cannavale mclaren mr. Marsh where sit on Geoffrion Doretta Cynthia’s instanton of
Geoffrion Doretta Cynthia’s instanton of
Geoffrion Doretta Cynthia’s instanton of the Hellenic dead astern commandeered on
the Hellenic dead astern commandeered on
the Hellenic dead astern commandeered on sushkova
sushkova
sushkova hasta loft Ximena in multi-dimensions I
hasta loft Ximena in multi-dimensions I
hasta loft Ximena in multi-dimensions I give Alton Lavina defense barks tiger
give Alton Lavina defense barks tiger
give Alton Lavina defense barks tiger so to attrition fall over there
so to attrition fall over there
so to attrition fall over there yeah and we have been working there and
yeah and we have been working there and
yeah and we have been working there and we were in a situation in the
we were in a situation in the
we were in a situation in the battlefield we had been working there
battlefield we had been working there
battlefield we had been working there for four or five hours and gathered the
for four or five hours and gathered the
for four or five hours and gathered the people who survived on that spot where
people who survived on that spot where
people who survived on that spot where you see the couple of people up there
you see the couple of people up there
you see the couple of people up there you see that massive cornice this is
you see that massive cornice this is
you see that massive cornice this is from an avalanche
from an avalanche
from an avalanche I’ve seen many evidences in my life but
I’ve seen many evidences in my life but
I’ve seen many evidences in my life but I have never seen such a cornice ever
I have never seen such a cornice ever
I have never seen such a cornice ever and while we were working everywhere of
and while we were working everywhere of
and while we were working everywhere of course nervous because we knew we can do
course nervous because we knew we can do
course nervous because we knew we can do the first aid but we cannot carry these
the first aid but we cannot carry these
the first aid but we cannot carry these people down there on there are no hero
people down there on there are no hero
people down there on there are no hero stories and 8,000 meters where and you
stories and 8,000 meters where and you
stories and 8,000 meters where and you carry your body down because you’re so
carry your body down because you’re so
carry your body down because you’re so strong and Hollywood tells that etc it
strong and Hollywood tells that etc it
strong and Hollywood tells that etc it doesn’t happen it simply doesn’t happen
doesn’t happen it simply doesn’t happen
doesn’t happen it simply doesn’t happen there’s only the rule of
there’s only the rule of
there’s only the rule of self-responsibility
self-responsibility
self-responsibility and the rule of knowing how far you go
and the rule of knowing how far you go
and the rule of knowing how far you go and were not the same day we were very
and were not the same day we were very
and were not the same day we were very released because helicopters unusually
released because helicopters unusually
released because helicopters unusually not flying very often in a pod that
not flying very often in a pod that
not flying very often in a pod that really need to brave pilots who are
really need to brave pilots who are
really need to brave pilots who are doing that the same day we went down and
doing that the same day we went down and
doing that the same day we went down and of course we were also done the day
of course we were also done the day
of course we were also done the day before we had been dreaming about the
before we had been dreaming about the
before we had been dreaming about the summit suddenly we were in one of the
summit suddenly we were in one of the
summit suddenly we were in one of the biggest avalanche disasters the
biggest avalanche disasters the
biggest avalanche disasters the Himalayas had ever seen then the first
Himalayas had ever seen then the first
Himalayas had ever seen then the first discussion started and but most
discussion started and but most
discussion started and but most interesting was that the people we were
interesting was that the people we were
interesting was that the people we were fighting for 11 people died that day but
fighting for 11 people died that day but
fighting for 11 people died that day but the people we had been fighting for and
the people we had been fighting for and
the people we had been fighting for and I wasn’t sure if everybody would survive
I wasn’t sure if everybody would survive
I wasn’t sure if everybody would survive had they survived or not because they
had they survived or not because they
had they survived or not because they were all in Kathmandu hospital we got a
were all in Kathmandu hospital we got a
were all in Kathmandu hospital we got a call and everybody had survived actually
call and everybody had survived actually
call and everybody had survived actually met them in Munich and most of them were
met them in Munich and most of them were
met them in Munich and most of them were European a couple of months later most
European a couple of months later most
European a couple of months later most of them had didn’t recognize because he
of them had didn’t recognize because he
of them had didn’t recognize because he didn’t have any beards anymore
didn’t have any beards anymore
didn’t have any beards anymore etc and so on and but all of them a
etc and so on and but all of them a
etc and so on and but all of them a device survived with their fingers with
device survived with their fingers with
device survived with their fingers with the toast no frost bites etc and I
the toast no frost bites etc and I
the toast no frost bites etc and I wasn’t sure that day so there was a big
wasn’t sure that day so there was a big
wasn’t sure that day so there was a big day light in in that day I would say and
day light in in that day I would say and
day light in in that day I would say and then in the end the team decided okay
then in the end the team decided okay
then in the end the team decided okay very democratic everybody took his
very democratic everybody took his
very democratic everybody took his decision three left three stayed I
decision three left three stayed I
decision three left three stayed I stayed even though already was a family
stayed even though already was a family
stayed even though already was a family father and and so on but I think there
father and and so on but I think there
father and and so on but I think there was something inside me which said no
was something inside me which said no
was something inside me which said no you stay you stay on that mountain you
you stay you stay on that mountain you
you stay you stay on that mountain you had already invested so much time in the
had already invested so much time in the
had already invested so much time in the mountain it doesn’t matter no for that
mountain it doesn’t matter no for that
mountain it doesn’t matter no for that one more week no matter if you make this
one more week no matter if you make this
one more week no matter if you make this summit or not but you have to imagine
summit or not but you have to imagine
summit or not but you have to imagine there was a lot of preparation in all
there was a lot of preparation in all
there was a lot of preparation in all these years a lot of setbacks and
these years a lot of setbacks and
these years a lot of setbacks and suddenly I was there and I thought okay
suddenly I was there and I thought okay
suddenly I was there and I thought okay I just stay there and then of course
I just stay there and then of course
I just stay there and then of course there’s that codex with
there’s that codex with
there’s that codex with that being a mountain here that you know
that being a mountain here that you know
that being a mountain here that you know what you’re doing you know it’s a know
what you’re doing you know it’s a know
what you’re doing you know it’s a know the risk there would never be a
the risk there would never be a
the risk there would never be a mountaineer who would blame another
mountaineer who would blame another
mountaineer who would blame another Mountaineer why didn’t you go up after
Mountaineer why didn’t you go up after
Mountaineer why didn’t you go up after an avalanche how could you do that and
an avalanche how could you do that and
an avalanche how could you do that and so on it was actually the opposite there
so on it was actually the opposite there
so on it was actually the opposite there was more Mountaineers out there
was more Mountaineers out there
was more Mountaineers out there Glen Blake for example one of a famous
Glen Blake for example one of a famous
Glen Blake for example one of a famous American skier lost two friends that day
American skier lost two friends that day
American skier lost two friends that day the only two friends he was there with
the only two friends he was there with
the only two friends he was there with he was leaving the Basecamp obviously
he was leaving the Basecamp obviously
he was leaving the Basecamp obviously but he said Benny you guys don’t have to
but he said Benny you guys don’t have to
but he said Benny you guys don’t have to do it again you have to do it for me you
do it again you have to do it for me you
do it again you have to do it for me you go up there
go up there
go up there it was another South American guy even
it was another South American guy even
it was another South American guy even the first South American who planned all
the first South American who planned all
the first South American who planned all 14 eight-thousanders peaks and without
14 eight-thousanders peaks and without
14 eight-thousanders peaks and without of supplemental oxygen he really charged
of supplemental oxygen he really charged
of supplemental oxygen he really charged me in in the end after five days I said
me in in the end after five days I said
me in in the end after five days I said okay we start again we take all that
okay we start again we take all that
okay we start again we take all that courage we start we do it and I needed
courage we start we do it and I needed
courage we start we do it and I needed that activation from outside that we
that activation from outside that we
that activation from outside that we actually yeah reload that momentum we
actually yeah reload that momentum we
actually yeah reload that momentum we started from base camp you start into
started from base camp you start into
started from base camp you start into the night at 6:00 p.m. and you see there
the night at 6:00 p.m. and you see there
the night at 6:00 p.m. and you see there the different camp spots which we left
the different camp spots which we left
the different camp spots which we left out of the way so six o’clock we went
out of the way so six o’clock we went
out of the way so six o’clock we went and went up and up and up and around
and went up and up and up and around
and went up and up and up and around four o’clock in the morning at on seven
four o’clock in the morning at on seven
four o’clock in the morning at on seven thousand seven thousand four and meters
thousand seven thousand four and meters
thousand seven thousand four and meters on that key section where you see that
on that key section where you see that
on that key section where you see that that big Ridge over there
that big Ridge over there
that big Ridge over there so right where it goes up also where the
so right where it goes up also where the
so right where it goes up also where the Avalanche came off there was a very
Avalanche came off there was a very
Avalanche came off there was a very strong wind but finally when I got onto
strong wind but finally when I got onto
strong wind but finally when I got onto the ridge the wind has not been a wind
the ridge the wind has not been a wind
the ridge the wind has not been a wind anymore it has been a storm and I was
anymore it has been a storm and I was
anymore it has been a storm and I was totally shocked I didn’t understand
totally shocked I didn’t understand
totally shocked I didn’t understand where the wind is coming from what was
where the wind is coming from what was
where the wind is coming from what was going on suddenly and now I knew with
going on suddenly and now I knew with
going on suddenly and now I knew with that wind I won’t make it I will not
that wind I won’t make it I will not
that wind I won’t make it I will not make it to the summit I will have
make it to the summit I will have
make it to the summit I will have frostbite I will and it won’t happen
frostbite I will and it won’t happen
frostbite I will and it won’t happen it’s too early if I go back I will never
it’s too early if I go back I will never
it’s too early if I go back I will never have the energy again to go up so I
have the energy again to go up so I
have the energy again to go up so I thought with my little headlamp and and
thought with my little headlamp and and
thought with my little headlamp and and I looked and somewhere I saw a little
I looked and somewhere I saw a little
I looked and somewhere I saw a little tent and I couldn’t believe it I was a
tent and I couldn’t believe it I was a
tent and I couldn’t believe it I was a tent open the tent there was nothing in
tent open the tent there was nothing in
tent open the tent there was nothing in there except a lot of snow I sneaked
there except a lot of snow I sneaked
there except a lot of snow I sneaked myself into the tent and I thought okay
myself into the tent and I thought okay
myself into the tent and I thought okay I’ll wait here until the sunrise comes
I’ll wait here until the sunrise comes
I’ll wait here until the sunrise comes and the sunrise it’s amazing it gives a
and the sunrise it’s amazing it gives a
and the sunrise it’s amazing it gives a lot of energy and maybe with the sunrise
lot of energy and maybe with the sunrise
lot of energy and maybe with the sunrise I thought maybe the storm also goes back
I thought maybe the storm also goes back
I thought maybe the storm also goes back and this is what it looked like
and this is what it looked like
and this is what it looked like I don’t own a na this since items
I don’t own a na this since items
I don’t own a na this since items Havanese only come
his outfit here to Stearman but don’t be
his outfit here to Stearman but don’t be shy see what is here you understood it
shy see what is here you understood it
shy see what is here you understood it last word but and the Sun was coming the
last word but and the Sun was coming the
last word but and the Sun was coming the Sun was coming I was there on the summit
Sun was coming I was there on the summit
Sun was coming I was there on the summit after 15 hours in total having spent one
after 15 hours in total having spent one
after 15 hours in total having spent one and half hours in the tent the Sun was
and half hours in the tent the Sun was
and half hours in the tent the Sun was coming and I remember the only thing
coming and I remember the only thing
coming and I remember the only thing which kept me going because your body
which kept me going because your body
which kept me going because your body hidden your body feels that you would
hidden your body feels that you would
hidden your body feels that you would die there’s not enough oxygen the only
die there’s not enough oxygen the only
die there’s not enough oxygen the only thing which kept me going was a
thing which kept me going was a
thing which kept me going was a permanent mantra which said there’s no
permanent mantra which said there’s no
permanent mantra which said there’s no reason to turn around there’s no reason
reason to turn around there’s no reason
reason to turn around there’s no reason to turn around today there’s no this
to turn around today there’s no this
to turn around today there’s no this went for hours and hours there’s no
went for hours and hours there’s no
went for hours and hours there’s no reason to turn around today and later I
reason to turn around today and later I
reason to turn around today and later I found out this was my this was the will
found out this was my this was the will
found out this was my this was the will the will I had been building up for so
the will I had been building up for so
the will I had been building up for so many years for so many days getting up
many years for so many days getting up
many years for so many days getting up very early morning training back to work
very early morning training back to work
very early morning training back to work he set the wrench on the will which kept
he set the wrench on the will which kept
he set the wrench on the will which kept me going in the end my friends had
me going in the end my friends had
me going in the end my friends had turned around and thank you
but on the other hand I wasn’t in this
but on the other hand I wasn’t in this stage to that put up my six my friend
stage to that put up my six my friend
stage to that put up my six my friend hadn’t been there had they had been up
hadn’t been there had they had been up
hadn’t been there had they had been up turnaround but the most important goal
turnaround but the most important goal
turnaround but the most important goal is that everybody gets home safely or
is that everybody gets home safely or
is that everybody gets home safely or back to base camp safely in the end we
back to base camp safely in the end we
back to base camp safely in the end we made it after 23 hours I lost seven
made it after 23 hours I lost seven
made it after 23 hours I lost seven kilograms within these 23 and a half
kilograms within these 23 and a half
kilograms within these 23 and a half hours and this is what it looked like
hours and this is what it looked like
hours and this is what it looked like when we returned to look for mana to you
when we returned to look for mana to you
when we returned to look for mana to you know you know scientist Isaac Newton
know you know scientist Isaac Newton
know you know scientist Isaac Newton entitled meter and LED and I was elated
entitled meter and LED and I was elated
entitled meter and LED and I was elated so really done but it’s interesting you
so really done but it’s interesting you
so really done but it’s interesting you think suddenly you have achieved that
think suddenly you have achieved that
think suddenly you have achieved that it’s done but I learned for myself at
it’s done but I learned for myself at
it’s done but I learned for myself at least that what keeps me going what
least that what keeps me going what
least that what keeps me going what keeps me getting up in the morning is
keeps me getting up in the morning is
keeps me getting up in the morning is not what I achieved yesterday and it’s
not what I achieved yesterday and it’s
not what I achieved yesterday and it’s what is in front of me it’s not about
what is in front of me it’s not about
what is in front of me it’s not about backward but it’s in front I never
backward but it’s in front I never
backward but it’s in front I never enjoyed occupying or owning or having or
enjoyed occupying or owning or having or
enjoyed occupying or owning or having or whatsoever actually it was the opposite
whatsoever actually it was the opposite
whatsoever actually it was the opposite it made me heavy because what kept me
it made me heavy because what kept me
it made me heavy because what kept me going was living by targets I was one
going was living by targets I was one
going was living by targets I was one year later with my family in Greece on
year later with my family in Greece on
year later with my family in Greece on the beach and and somehow it started
the beach and and somehow it started
the beach and and somehow it started again what could be and I got nervous
again what could be and I got nervous
again what could be and I got nervous and and it started again and soon the
and and it started again and soon the
and and it started again and soon the next expedition was planned but today I
next expedition was planned but today I
next expedition was planned but today I know it doesn’t have to be always an
know it doesn’t have to be always an
know it doesn’t have to be always an expedition and I think three kids every
expedition and I think three kids every
expedition and I think three kids every single one is a NATO’s meter peak itself
single one is a NATO’s meter peak itself
single one is a NATO’s meter peak itself every day I would almost say
[Applause]
[Applause] managing a company having
managing a company having
managing a company having responsibilities for a couple of hundred
responsibilities for a couple of hundred
responsibilities for a couple of hundred people is a responsibility which is in a
people is a responsibility which is in a
people is a responsibility which is in a thousand with a peak so it doesn’t
thousand with a peak so it doesn’t
thousand with a peak so it doesn’t always have to be dead but the
always have to be dead but the
always have to be dead but the methodology the methodology we use is
methodology the methodology we use is
methodology the methodology we use is the same or I use at least it is to
the same or I use at least it is to
the same or I use at least it is to target out there which could be your
target out there which could be your
target out there which could be your dream no matter what you have as a
dream no matter what you have as a
dream no matter what you have as a target we have these setbacks of course
target we have these setbacks of course
target we have these setbacks of course we have the fear then we have the
we have the fear then we have the
we have the fear then we have the courage and the balance between them are
courage and the balance between them are
courage and the balance between them are we overcoming it or not and in the end
we overcoming it or not and in the end
we overcoming it or not and in the end we say yes hopefully we do it or we have
we say yes hopefully we do it or we have
we say yes hopefully we do it or we have to turn around that’s it I wish all the
to turn around that’s it I wish all the
to turn around that’s it I wish all the best for your expeditions thank you
”
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