we are here to be honest
so I have to make a
confession I became an addict
if it surprises you
I will tell you because at 8 months
I learned to swim at 4 years old
in the ballet and from there going through
all those sports to which
I had access to and is and when
and how good it never happens as a child
tiger at 10
I ran my first wave and that marked my
life to the 13,000 family moved to the
beach and good with them I went myself
I started to suffer daily and one thing
led to the other
and to my 14 to compete nor national first
of its where it is champion to that I
helped to prove to me that if I could
my father always tells me we grow up in the
measure of our challenges and my next
challenge was to face the iconic island
all saints one of the most waves
large and strongest in the world
The bigger the challenge, the more
difficult
We were coming to the island and
it happens to ask whose are the
boards nailed to the side of the lighthouse
the answer made my skin crawl
it’s the cemetery
there are the tables of the surfers
that have died in the attempt to dominate
the wave invaded me the fear I did not know
that confronted me I started crying
it was a decisive moment I was looking for allies
look for sponsors and it was definitely a
difficult test so while all
they talked and before they saw me
cry I ventured to the open sea
everyone took waves I could not kake
rimada take a wave the panic that
invaded what would happen if I fell and I
it turns a wave and the sun crashes
against the reef or without choking
what strong words do we grow in the
measure of our challenges
although I did not know what
faced the only thing he knew was that
my passion is bigger than fear
so without thinking twice
I came back repeating if it does not exist in your
mind did not exist in your life and I decided
the wave that came was mine I
I knew it was my chance and I did not
I could let it pass
began to row hard and non-stop already
there was no going back out the wave
feel that force of the sea
the energy that the immense wall of
water by my side and I on it the only thing
what I thought was do not fall
fall healthy and there I was living my
dream
after these two wins
I was convinced that at least to me
family and my friends are very clear
my passion and aims to meet my fifteen
invites me to my grandmother to buy my gift
immediately a thought passed through my mind
table of their but for more than try
explain what I wanted
in less than what I tell them and is
seated trying on dresses and heels
I returned to my grandmother with a
exclusive dress and designer
it really was made for me and go
that was beautiful but not
I breathed deeply I took hold of courage and told him
little note I want my board and that
moment
imagine , the sky fell
get to that surfers are lazy
drug addicts and many die emerging and
Of course that was not good girls
tried to convince with the memory of
ballet and with everything that entailed the
glamor of the recitals in the branches of
flowers and why do I still have
the scars of the shoes
tip
sitting in the mall
observing other people
I realized and sadly the society
do not box stereotypes
but what do I say our society
own family although I hope is that the
world share your dreams
in the end they are only yours
at that time I knew that to bring another
lifetime
really my home and I preferred
die doing what I like and if
we start that the best things of the
life must be shared
I invite you to associate no no associate
this
I invite you to surf life to surf the
life is doing everyday things and
unique simple because each wave is
different is a new opportunity and a
once it happens it never comes back and
they know how to do everyday things and
simple of those little moments
Unique compassion turns passion
in the fuel of your life but but
even compassion does not mean it’s
easy because we wanted and the challenges
everyone on our way we trust
many are different
even so we never have the certainty of
that our actions will lead us to
achieve our goals
we need tests tests to know
if we are on the right path
continuing my way a few weeks before
Preparing for the World Cup in Azores
portugal that informs us the team that
mexico is suspended
there is a minimal possibility of
to compete
obviously comments were not lacking
pessimistic but I knew it was a test
a test to know if it goes by the
correct path and I decided to run the
risk
jean açores the challenges were still
that the house that had been assigned to us
from mexico
it was on the other side of the island like this
that we had no place to sleep
the rumor spread quickly in a
people so small and with the heart of
the people so big that the news
came to the mayor who very generous
offers us to stay with the fire department
yes in the fire station
the spacious place more not very cozy
of imagine experience not the first
night
we are so tired that we fell
asleep
the second night and nobody wanted
continue there there were bloodstains on
the beds can not leave after the
eight of the night the bathrooms that gave the
bottom of the hall by which
it seemed that inhabited ghosts had
fire drill in the early morning
so the place was not anything cozy
fortunately we found a house
where we change all the equipment so
that was already there and the delegation has just
receive the news that we could
to compete
we were more than 400 competitors we are
The best juni of each country
sea conditions were difficult and
changing and I had to overcome my
previous results without a doubt in a
difficult as they pass the test
days the waves keep growing and more
competitors were out to the room
day of competition I have to face the
round more difficult since in it
every year is outside
I remember that day I woke up
early to practice before the
competition
the weather was and polar beech sun arc
Iris rain wind but I could only
think about passing this round
mentalizing strategy already in the water
the sky began to close
she very little entered the wind and not
I heard nothing
I really do not remember what I did
I put in automatic mode and did what
I knew how to
It is urgent to leave the water without knowing what
happened even in automatic mode and
they began to congratulate me for having
happened first of all I’m round and not what
I could believe
I continued in the competition
and in the quarter-finals I lost
point
06
point 06 decís being in ninth without
doubt had been a historical result
for the Mexican women ‘s surfing and
I had improved my results
previous but that is not enough for me
I want to be in the final and win a
medal that desire is not everything
in fact that’s easier
effort the perseverance and dedication
and passion are the ones that will take me
to win that medal at the end when
we achieve something the
comments as you are given so that
it’s easy or you were lucky but not to
no one is given any achievement is easy
because behind every achievement there are
many stumbles
in fact in my story with more
stumbling that achievements and behind that
there are many many hours of work
invisible
the works are what have led me to
declare a habitat an addict to the
passion an addicted to surfing life and
that’s why I invite you to associate life with
passion
Thank you
[Applause]
[Music]
dad
”
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