Making surfing as part of Tokushima culture | Minami Takechi | TEDxTokushimaU

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I

Does everyone have a fever now

Extracurricular activities Toka and study it for students

You may be working as a post-social worker

I think good to say month pillar in love

According to the dictionary enthusiasm can deeply compare one thing to one thing And get absorbed

It seems to be

Enthusiasm is in rich color to life

It occupies part or most of life

What is your enthusiasm for

That I am passionate It is surfing

Eight-year-old I started surfing too

I am 23 years old who stands here now

The path was opening ahead of the enthusiasm

Although I was delayed in introduction, I am Takaichi Minami

This name my parents gave me

Write and wave to Minoru

We surfers to get on the waves

Paddle your way from the shore towards the ocean

And pray wave to select a wave on your own

The wave that came once will never come again

An instant every moment of that ride is like life

So today I will talk about my experiences with names

I will talk about using waves

I started surfing at the age of 8 because of my parents who surf shops

What I experienced in sports

As a matter of swimming and surfing , actually the motor nerves can be seen very often, but in fact it is from the ocean

When going up and going up to the land exercise is not very good

Surfing was the only thing I was passionate about

And for the first time at the age of 13, as international representative of the World International Junior Surfing Championship International Convention

I will participate in

If you represent a big event in life as well

This is exactly the first time I get on my birth

It was a big wave

Hearing home tears and experiencing the first international competition in tension

And after finishing this wave

I will head off south again

This experience is exactly what I got on my own biggest wave

It was such a feeling

And I also Koide yourself after you have finished riding this wave

Return to machine

It depends on one wave which can not be made in Japanese

That is relief when I headed for Japan to Ecuador

There, younger children than me are not schools on weekdays

I saw a state selling goods with beats

Learn normally at school and spend normal

It faces me for the first time when I was born in a situation where what I thought was natural is not commonplace

Was

What I can do for myself after finishing this wave

I think about

But then a senior high school student

Even though I thought it was impossible to understand immediately

But experience on taking this wave

Then I thought about what I could do

I will return to ok again

During the wake-up, various waves of large and small squeeze towards me from off the coast

Become third grader of high school

Became a professional sailor accredited by the Japan Professional Surfing Federation

In the same year I will win a rookie prison river

And here

I will enter the University of Tokushima

I

It is a professional surfer and acting professionally as a pro surfer and studying abroad simultaneously

The reason for you

From experience abroad

First of all I wanted to deepen my learning about English and education

But at the root of everything

Sometimes wiping out the image of surfing that was lightly seen

I want to bring about changes in surfing

I thought that I chose this path

And I thought this was what I could do

Oh after the university entrance

While deepening learning about English and education

I will fight the world tour main

And again I am overseas and I

A Do not mind I will take the second wave

That wave was cleaned by me

Challenged the large rough moderate to say the world I

I will experience lots of defeat in the game

Of course, the experience I have attached

Then you also lead after success

The pleasure of winning as much as I lost was great

But the walls of the world is me in to be outdone thick’ve lost confidence

not only that

Practicing overseas

I injured my legs sewing 4 needles

Just ahead darkness

I felt like I was caught in the invisible tunnel at the exit

From the wave I thought it was good

Take care

I was tormented and suffered

But I still want to challenge by surfing

The thought is strong and I will not give up again

Heading off the coast

After injuries I concentrate on rehabilitation

When I was able to get on the wave again

The existence of surfing that I thought it was natural until then

I noticed that it was irreplaceable

I really like surfing

thought

Recognizing that happiness that surfing can not be forsaken is not natural

I also headed for victory

I was able to prepare my heart and challenge

After experiencing this hard and severe wave

Because I do not think about what I can do again

And a variety of viewing over method experience

When I was a sophomore at university I started the surfing department of the University of Tokushima

Activities began with the aim of sharing the charm of the sea and nature of Tokushima

Also I would like to act as a hometown ambassador for Anan City, Tokushima Prefecture, my hometown

Also

Patagonia outdoor brand name

As a turbine ambassador

surfing

of

Not just professional activities

Surfing spreading activities and

I also worked on environmental issues

And as part of surfing dissemination activities

Surf school and

Also experienced lectures at elementary school

We have to find one by one that he can be as a professional surfer

And exactly now

I am on a new wave

I realized the importance of education through educational activities and surfing dissemination activities

As a graduation study

I will study the theme of surfing and education

By introducing surfing into school education like other sports

It is those who clarified the influence on children

According to a questionnaire survey

this

Graph

I am going to be number 5

For those items that I think I will try again if I fail several times during surfing practice

Who participated in the One a questionnaire survey

What 100% of high school students belonging to the surfing part was answered I think so

I felt the possibility of surfing to a posture to challenge even if I failed

From this study, by introducing surfing between education curricula

Student self-efficacy improved

And it revealed that there is a possibility that it may influence their sound development

And I was able to prove the educational effect of surfing scientifically

And this time I wanted to move the target from education to the area and carry out it

I am at the University of Tokushima Graduate School now

I am studying surfing and community revitalization

People by location

Visiting from outside the prefecture surfer migrants

In the vicinity of the coast where surfing is possible, various people live with their surfing involved

is

Not only surfing dissemination activities Come on Finger

Proving that it leads to regional revitalization Competitive sports Lifetime sports lifestyle etc.

Many people in various forms prefer surfing and sports in nature and nature

And the region will become active

I would like to make such a shape

Also

As myself I love the sea

I would like to work on environmental activities as I looked through surfers

There are lots of wonderful coasts here

Thinking about environmental problems through surfing

I would like to think about the regional way

There are many coasts around the world that can surf

For example, it is said to be a surfing developed country

There are lots of surfers in the USA and everyone who enjoys surfing

I am at

But there is a big difference between the coast of those countries and the coast of Japan

that is

Is surfing the culture of that house?

For example on the coast of Australia by region

There is a clubhouse and local children gather there outside the school

You can exchange through the surfing

In New Zealand there is a surfing museum in the match

Over a variety of surfing, such as fashion and music at all like As you know the United States

It is rooted in culture

What is important for surfing

It’s not just about increasing the number of competing players

In an area with a wonderful resource to surf

It is to root surfing as a culture

It is not an easy thing, but as I arrived at one of the now answer that he can

I feel like.

I think that you guys are now crazy about each one

The wave that once went up never comes again

Surfing and life are the same and will never come back never once

You must take care of that one wave you are riding while getting involved

However or ride successfully riding the new wave from this as I also was the case until now

There may be times when it fails with reasonable moss

Surely the same wave will not come

However

Waves are actually occurring a lot

Even if you fail, you can ride the next wave

Opportunity will surely come around

Just do not fear to challenge

Once again heading to the plane

Do not forget to get on the waves

Thank you very much

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me