several decades ago a visit to a garment factory in Los Angeles changed my life
factory in Los Angeles changed my life
factory in Los Angeles changed my life and set me on a path of research and
and set me on a path of research and
and set me on a path of research and activism I remain passionate about today
activism I remain passionate about today
activism I remain passionate about today I become interested in globalization and
I become interested in globalization and
I become interested in globalization and the most globalized industry in the
the most globalized industry in the
the most globalized industry in the world today it’s the apparel industry
world today it’s the apparel industry
world today it’s the apparel industry and just down the road in Los Angeles a
and just down the road in Los Angeles a
and just down the road in Los Angeles a hundred and fifty thousand garment
hundred and fifty thousand garment
hundred and fifty thousand garment workers labored and thousands of
workers labored and thousands of
workers labored and thousands of factories barely a mile from the
factories barely a mile from the
factories barely a mile from the towering offices and banks and hotels of
towering offices and banks and hotels of
towering offices and banks and hotels of Bunker Hill this industry had been
Bunker Hill this industry had been
Bunker Hill this industry had been described as a sweatshop industry the
described as a sweatshop industry the
described as a sweatshop industry the workers there were all immigrants mainly
workers there were all immigrants mainly
workers there were all immigrants mainly from Mexico and Central America mainly
from Mexico and Central America mainly
from Mexico and Central America mainly women most of them undocumented so I
women most of them undocumented so I
women most of them undocumented so I decided to go down and take a look the
decided to go down and take a look the
decided to go down and take a look the factory I visited was an eye-opener it
factory I visited was an eye-opener it
factory I visited was an eye-opener it was a top floor of a six story building
was a top floor of a six story building
was a top floor of a six story building that had seen much better days as an
that had seen much better days as an
that had seen much better days as an office building now at this home to
office building now at this home to
office building now at this home to dozens of factories and hundreds of
dozens of factories and hundreds of
dozens of factories and hundreds of workers as I entered the elevator I
workers as I entered the elevator I
workers as I entered the elevator I sensed that something was missing what
sensed that something was missing what
sensed that something was missing what was missing was a door on the elevator
was missing was a door on the elevator
was missing was a door on the elevator there was no door as we ascended to the
there was no door as we ascended to the
there was no door as we ascended to the sixth floor I realized something else
sixth floor I realized something else
sixth floor I realized something else was missing there were no lights in the
was missing there were no lights in the
was missing there were no lights in the elevator as we went up facing an open
elevator as we went up facing an open
elevator as we went up facing an open elevator shaft in darkness I could only
elevator shaft in darkness I could only
elevator shaft in darkness I could only wonder what it was like when this
wonder what it was like when this
wonder what it was like when this elevator was crammed full of garment
elevator was crammed full of garment
elevator was crammed full of garment workers heading to their factories the
workers heading to their factories the
workers heading to their factories the factory itself wasn’t much different it
factory itself wasn’t much different it
factory itself wasn’t much different it was small it was crowded it was noisy
was small it was crowded it was noisy
was small it was crowded it was noisy and dirty and the women maybe 30 of them
and dirty and the women maybe 30 of them
and dirty and the women maybe 30 of them who worked in this Factory couldn’t look
who worked in this Factory couldn’t look
who worked in this Factory couldn’t look up from their sewing machines because
up from their sewing machines because
up from their sewing machines because they had quotas to me I noticed that
they had quotas to me I noticed that
they had quotas to me I noticed that there were bolts of fabric that blocked
there were bolts of fabric that blocked
there were bolts of fabric that blocked every possible exit making me wonder
every possible exit making me wonder
every possible exit making me wonder what if there were a fire and the
what if there were a fire and the
what if there were a fire and the bathroom
bathroom
bathroom well I’ll spare you the details let’s
well I’ll spare you the details let’s
well I’ll spare you the details let’s just say the one toilet that served two
just say the one toilet that served two
just say the one toilet that served two floors of factories was completely
floors of factories was completely
floors of factories was completely stopped up and overflowing now this
stopped up and overflowing now this
stopped up and overflowing now this factory was part of a corporate
factory was part of a corporate
factory was part of a corporate accountability program something called
accountability program something called
accountability program something called the compliance Alliance a voluntary
the compliance Alliance a voluntary
the compliance Alliance a voluntary agreement by the brands that produce
agreement by the brands that produce
agreement by the brands that produce garments and contract factories in Los
garments and contract factories in Los
garments and contract factories in Los Angeles to monitor themselves to hire
Angeles to monitor themselves to hire
Angeles to monitor themselves to hire firms to go in and make sure these
firms to go in and make sure these
firms to go in and make sure these factories were okay the brands and
factories were okay the brands and
factories were okay the brands and retailers that produce in LA did not
retailers that produce in LA did not
retailers that produce in LA did not want the US Department of Labor or the
want the US Department of Labor or the
want the US Department of Labor or the California division of labor standards
California division of labor standards
California division of labor standards enforcement breathing down their throats
enforcement breathing down their throats
enforcement breathing down their throats so they said we’ll do it ourselves
so they said we’ll do it ourselves
so they said we’ll do it ourselves it’s becoming evident to me that this
it’s becoming evident to me that this
it’s becoming evident to me that this program of corporate responsibility was
program of corporate responsibility was
program of corporate responsibility was not working very well so I asked myself
not working very well so I asked myself
not working very well so I asked myself the question which I really pursue it
the question which I really pursue it
the question which I really pursue it ever since
ever since
ever since why does corporate accountability fail
why does corporate accountability fail
why does corporate accountability fail and what can be done about it so let’s
and what can be done about it so let’s
and what can be done about it so let’s take two examples one high-tech one
take two examples one high-tech one
take two examples one high-tech one low-tech to sort of orient ourselves to
low-tech to sort of orient ourselves to
low-tech to sort of orient ourselves to this issue high-tech Apple so Apple
this issue high-tech Apple so Apple
this issue high-tech Apple so Apple sources the components for smart phones
sources the components for smart phones
sources the components for smart phones all over East Asia some from the US
all over East Asia some from the US
all over East Asia some from the US iPhones are assembled in giant factories
iPhones are assembled in giant factories
iPhones are assembled in giant factories throughout the world mainly in South
throughout the world mainly in South
throughout the world mainly in South China Foxconn the world’s largest
China Foxconn the world’s largest
China Foxconn the world’s largest manufacturer of smartphones and
manufacturer of smartphones and
manufacturer of smartphones and computers for every major brand employs
computers for every major brand employs
computers for every major brand employs over 1.2 million workers it is the safe
over 1.2 million workers it is the safe
over 1.2 million workers it is the safe bet that not one of the 212 million
bet that not one of the 212 million
bet that not one of the 212 million iPhones sold in the world last year was
iPhones sold in the world last year was
iPhones sold in the world last year was actually made by Apple all were made and
actually made by Apple all were made and
actually made by Apple all were made and assembled in contract factories or let’s
assembled in contract factories or let’s
assembled in contract factories or let’s go low-tech zahra you’re all familiar
go low-tech zahra you’re all familiar
go low-tech zahra you’re all familiar with star the popular clothing brand a
with star the popular clothing brand a
with star the popular clothing brand a popular brand owned by Inditex the giant
popular brand owned by Inditex the giant
popular brand owned by Inditex the giant Spanish corporation I don’t mean to pick
Spanish corporation I don’t mean to pick
Spanish corporation I don’t mean to pick on Zara but I’m going to use this as a
on Zara but I’m going to use this as a
on Zara but I’m going to use this as a lust rative if you were to look we don’t
lust rative if you were to look we don’t
lust rative if you were to look we don’t have time in this setting and the back
have time in this setting and the back
have time in this setting and the back of your
of your
of your sure you would see that the labels
sure you would see that the labels
sure you would see that the labels represent a United Nations of production
represent a United Nations of production
represent a United Nations of production every country in the world makes
every country in the world makes
every country in the world makes clothing with China and Bangladesh
clothing with China and Bangladesh
clothing with China and Bangladesh leading the pack it is a safe bet that
leading the pack it is a safe bet that
leading the pack it is a safe bet that not one of the garments any of us are
not one of the garments any of us are
not one of the garments any of us are wearing today were actually made by the
wearing today were actually made by the
wearing today were actually made by the brands that we so covet so to get a
brands that we so covet so to get a
brands that we so covet so to get a better understanding of this let’s go
better understanding of this let’s go
better understanding of this let’s go back to the 20th century this is the
back to the 20th century this is the
back to the 20th century this is the Chevy Impala by the way the iconic car
Chevy Impala by the way the iconic car
Chevy Impala by the way the iconic car of my youth in the 1950s produced by
of my youth in the 1950s produced by
of my youth in the 1950s produced by General Motors the largest corporation
General Motors the largest corporation
General Motors the largest corporation in the world in the 1950s huge powerful
in the world in the 1950s huge powerful
in the world in the 1950s huge powerful corporation produced cars trucks light
corporation produced cars trucks light
corporation produced cars trucks light vehicles in-house employing hundreds of
vehicles in-house employing hundreds of
vehicles in-house employing hundreds of thousands of workers in the United
thousands of workers in the United
thousands of workers in the United States some outsourcing to other
States some outsourcing to other
States some outsourcing to other countries but mainly done
countries but mainly done
countries but mainly done General Motors workers and General
General Motors workers and General
General Motors workers and General Motors factories the workers in these
Motors factories the workers in these
Motors factories the workers in these factories had some power general motors
factories had some power general motors
factories had some power general motors might have been a powerful corporation
might have been a powerful corporation
might have been a powerful corporation but the workers belong to the United
but the workers belong to the United
but the workers belong to the United Automobile Workers Union every couple of
Automobile Workers Union every couple of
Automobile Workers Union every couple of years when contracts came up for
years when contracts came up for
years when contracts came up for negotiation if their workers didn’t get
negotiation if their workers didn’t get
negotiation if their workers didn’t get what they want they would go out on
what they want they would go out on
what they want they would go out on strike and eventually beginning after
strike and eventually beginning after
strike and eventually beginning after World War two and up through the 1970s
World War two and up through the 1970s
World War two and up through the 1970s this form of industrial production
this form of industrial production
this form of industrial production enabled blue-collar workers in the US
enabled blue-collar workers in the US
enabled blue-collar workers in the US and Europe to achieve middle class
and Europe to achieve middle class
and Europe to achieve middle class status send their kids to college maybe
status send their kids to college maybe
status send their kids to college maybe get a home in the suburbs I call this
get a home in the suburbs I call this
get a home in the suburbs I call this the 20th century social contract and in
the 20th century social contract and in
the 20th century social contract and in this diagram you can see big corporation
this diagram you can see big corporation
this diagram you can see big corporation represented by General Motors Big Labor
represented by General Motors Big Labor
represented by General Motors Big Labor the afl-cio and above it the state as
the afl-cio and above it the state as
the afl-cio and above it the state as the enforcer the umpire not a perfect
the enforcer the umpire not a perfect
the enforcer the umpire not a perfect arrangement not all workers benefit but
arrangement not all workers benefit but
arrangement not all workers benefit but in the industrial sector it meant
in the industrial sector it meant
in the industrial sector it meant basically a way into the middle class
basically a way into the middle class
basically a way into the middle class now let’s go to the 21st century Walmart
now let’s go to the 21st century Walmart
now let’s go to the 21st century Walmart is the largest corporation in the world
is the largest corporation in the world
is the largest corporation in the world today
today
today Walmart is a retailer Walmart doesn’t
Walmart is a retailer Walmart doesn’t
Walmart is a retailer Walmart doesn’t make anything
make anything
make anything rather carries thousands of Brandt’s
rather carries thousands of Brandt’s
rather carries thousands of Brandt’s those brands don’t make anything either
those brands don’t make anything either
those brands don’t make anything either like Apple and Zara they source their
like Apple and Zara they source their
like Apple and Zara they source their production from pretty much everywhere
production from pretty much everywhere
production from pretty much everywhere in the world in this arrangement the
in the world in this arrangement the
in the world in this arrangement the workers have almost no power at all if
workers have almost no power at all if
workers have almost no power at all if the workers demand higher wages in a
the workers demand higher wages in a
the workers demand higher wages in a factory in Bangladesh for example while
factory in Bangladesh for example while
factory in Bangladesh for example while the brand is using that Factory we’ll
the brand is using that Factory we’ll
the brand is using that Factory we’ll just move down the street or maybe move
just move down the street or maybe move
just move down the street or maybe move to another country entirely if workers
to another country entirely if workers
to another country entirely if workers try to unionize when I was in Bangladesh
try to unionize when I was in Bangladesh
try to unionize when I was in Bangladesh two years ago I met with two labor
two years ago I met with two labor
two years ago I met with two labor organizers who had been detained by the
organizers who had been detained by the
organizers who had been detained by the police and tortured the year before
police and tortured the year before
police and tortured the year before Bangladesh is leading union organizer I
Bangladesh is leading union organizer I
Bangladesh is leading union organizer I mean al Aslam had been detained and
mean al Aslam had been detained and
mean al Aslam had been detained and murdered I call this the 21st century
murdered I call this the 21st century
murdered I call this the 21st century carpet agreement it’s really its
carpet agreement it’s really its
carpet agreement it’s really its corporate accountability agreements not
corporate accountability agreements not
corporate accountability agreements not a formal contract like the 20th century
a formal contract like the 20th century
a formal contract like the 20th century this is the arrangement that defines
this is the arrangement that defines
this is the arrangement that defines global production today you have a big
global production today you have a big
global production today you have a big business emblem ice here by Walmart that
business emblem ice here by Walmart that
business emblem ice here by Walmart that business hires a factory independently
business hires a factory independently
business hires a factory independently owned to make something for which it has
owned to make something for which it has
owned to make something for which it has no legal liability and then hires a
no legal liability and then hires a
no legal liability and then hires a monitoring firm to go into the factory
monitoring firm to go into the factory
monitoring firm to go into the factory see what’s happening and report back it
see what’s happening and report back it
see what’s happening and report back it is entirely internal to the corporate
is entirely internal to the corporate
is entirely internal to the corporate process missing from this picture are
process missing from this picture are
process missing from this picture are two key actors that were present in the
two key actors that were present in the
two key actors that were present in the 20th century organized labor in the form
20th century organized labor in the form
20th century organized labor in the form of unions to represent the interests of
of unions to represent the interests of
of unions to represent the interests of workers and the state to enforce the
workers and the state to enforce the
workers and the state to enforce the deal so how well has this worked out
deal so how well has this worked out
deal so how well has this worked out I think you can anticipate my answer it
I think you can anticipate my answer it
I think you can anticipate my answer it hasn’t worked out very well at all
hasn’t worked out very well at all
hasn’t worked out very well at all let’s go high-tech again Foxconn the
let’s go high-tech again Foxconn the
let’s go high-tech again Foxconn the giant Taiwanese company I mentioned
giant Taiwanese company I mentioned
giant Taiwanese company I mentioned earlier in 2010-2011 this Factory and
earlier in 2010-2011 this Factory and
earlier in 2010-2011 this Factory and Shenzhen China employed half a million
Shenzhen China employed half a million
Shenzhen China employed half a million workers 18 workers mainly young women
workers 18 workers mainly young women
workers 18 workers mainly young women jumped to their deaths despondent over
jumped to their deaths despondent over
jumped to their deaths despondent over low wages long working hours miserable
low wages long working hours miserable
low wages long working hours miserable conditions Foxconn responded by putting
conditions Foxconn responded by putting
conditions Foxconn responded by putting up the nets you see in this picture to
up the nets you see in this picture to
up the nets you see in this picture to catch the women that shall we say
catch the women that shall we say
catch the women that shall we say insensitive response caught the
insensitive response caught the
insensitive response caught the attention of a young woman named Jenny
attention of a young woman named Jenny
attention of a young woman named Jenny Chan who worked in a tiny
Chan who worked in a tiny
Chan who worked in a tiny non-governmental organisation in Hong
non-governmental organisation in Hong
non-governmental organisation in Hong Kong Jenny and her friends infiltrated
Kong Jenny and her friends infiltrated
Kong Jenny and her friends infiltrated the factory found out how fox hunt had
the factory found out how fox hunt had
the factory found out how fox hunt had responded went to the news media the New
responded went to the news media the New
responded went to the news media the New York Times ran a series it became viral
York Times ran a series it became viral
York Times ran a series it became viral on social media and Apple which like all
on social media and Apple which like all
on social media and Apple which like all corporations is extremely sensitive
corporations is extremely sensitive
corporations is extremely sensitive about image brands live and die by their
about image brands live and die by their
about image brands live and die by their image Apple got involved and eventually
image Apple got involved and eventually
image Apple got involved and eventually wages went up and working conditions
wages went up and working conditions
wages went up and working conditions improved now the workers didn’t get
improved now the workers didn’t get
improved now the workers didn’t get everything that Jenny Chan or for that
everything that Jenny Chan or for that
everything that Jenny Chan or for that matter I would have liked them to have
matter I would have liked them to have
matter I would have liked them to have gotten but they did get something and
gotten but they did get something and
gotten but they did get something and this shows what a single person with
this shows what a single person with
this shows what a single person with consumer pressure behind her can do to
consumer pressure behind her can do to
consumer pressure behind her can do to make a difference in hundreds of
make a difference in hundreds of
make a difference in hundreds of thousands of lives in these factories
thousands of lives in these factories
thousands of lives in these factories well let’s go low-tech
well let’s go low-tech
well let’s go low-tech let’s go from Apple to Zara so to speak
let’s go from Apple to Zara so to speak
let’s go from Apple to Zara so to speak to Bangladesh Bangladesh is a most
to Bangladesh Bangladesh is a most
to Bangladesh Bangladesh is a most dangerous place in the world to be a
dangerous place in the world to be a
dangerous place in the world to be a factory worker since the industry began
factory worker since the industry began
factory worker since the industry began moving there from China when wages went
moving there from China when wages went
moving there from China when wages went up in China 10 15 years ago more than
up in China 10 15 years ago more than
up in China 10 15 years ago more than 2,000 workers have died in fires and
2,000 workers have died in fires and
2,000 workers have died in fires and building collapses I won’t go over the
building collapses I won’t go over the
building collapses I won’t go over the details in this slide but this
details in this slide but this
details in this slide but this highlights just four examples of
highlights just four examples of
highlights just four examples of buildings where fires are collapses had
buildings where fires are collapses had
buildings where fires are collapses had claimed lives every one of these
claimed lives every one of these
claimed lives every one of these factories had been monitored by an
factories had been monitored by an
factories had been monitored by an independent monitoring firm
independent monitoring firm
independent monitoring firm and given a clean bill of health as you
and given a clean bill of health as you
and given a clean bill of health as you look at this slide you recognize Walmart
look at this slide you recognize Walmart
look at this slide you recognize Walmart H&M these are well-known brands but none
H&M these are well-known brands but none
H&M these are well-known brands but none of these brands made the garments they
of these brands made the garments they
of these brands made the garments they were made in places with names like tez
were made in places with names like tez
were made in places with names like tez reen or Gauri Vanguard places I had
reen or Gauri Vanguard places I had
reen or Gauri Vanguard places I had certainly never heard of our let’s go to
certainly never heard of our let’s go to
certainly never heard of our let’s go to Rana Plaza how many of you had heard of
Rana Plaza how many of you had heard of
Rana Plaza how many of you had heard of Rana Plaza how many of you had heard of
Rana Plaza how many of you had heard of
Rana Plaza how many of you had heard of Rana Plaza before April 24th 2013 that’s
Rana Plaza before April 24th 2013 that’s
Rana Plaza before April 24th 2013 that’s a trick question because I certainly had
a trick question because I certainly had
a trick question because I certainly had Rana Plaza is an industrial building and
Rana Plaza is an industrial building and
Rana Plaza is an industrial building and near Dhaka Bangladesh in the Saba
near Dhaka Bangladesh in the Saba
near Dhaka Bangladesh in the Saba industrial district its first floor
industrial district its first floor
industrial district its first floor housed offices and banks and things like
housed offices and banks and things like
housed offices and banks and things like that but mr. Sohail Rana who owned the
that but mr. Sohail Rana who owned the
that but mr. Sohail Rana who owned the building and was well connected with the
building and was well connected with the
building and was well connected with the ruling party in Bangladesh added a bunch
ruling party in Bangladesh added a bunch
ruling party in Bangladesh added a bunch of floors without benefit of architects
of floors without benefit of architects
of floors without benefit of architects or engineers or permits or anything like
or engineers or permits or anything like
or engineers or permits or anything like that to house dozens of factories
that to house dozens of factories
that to house dozens of factories employing thousands of workers on April
employing thousands of workers on April
employing thousands of workers on April 23rd 2013 cracks appeared in the first
23rd 2013 cracks appeared in the first
23rd 2013 cracks appeared in the first floor building was vacated and inspected
floor building was vacated and inspected
floor building was vacated and inspected on April 24th 2013
on April 24th 2013
on April 24th 2013 nobody returned to work on the first
nobody returned to work on the first
nobody returned to work on the first floor but the thousands of garment
floor but the thousands of garment
floor but the thousands of garment workers milling outside were ordered by
workers milling outside were ordered by
workers milling outside were ordered by the factory owners to report to work or
the factory owners to report to work or
the factory owners to report to work or lose their jobs
lose their jobs
lose their jobs mr. Rana himself stood outside the
mr. Rana himself stood outside the
mr. Rana himself stood outside the factory and said this building will be
factory and said this building will be
factory and said this building will be standing for a hundred years
standing for a hundred years
standing for a hundred years exactly one hour later the building
exactly one hour later the building
exactly one hour later the building collapsed the top force pancaked onto
collapsed the top force pancaked onto
collapsed the top force pancaked onto the lower floors thousands of workers
the lower floors thousands of workers
the lower floors thousands of workers are trapped in the rubble over 1,100
are trapped in the rubble over 1,100
are trapped in the rubble over 1,100 died 2,000 were injured amputations were
died 2,000 were injured amputations were
died 2,000 were injured amputations were performed without anesthetic on the spot
performed without anesthetic on the spot
performed without anesthetic on the spot to extract workers the worst industrial
to extract workers the worst industrial
to extract workers the worst industrial disaster that we know a factory disaster
disaster that we know a factory disaster
disaster that we know a factory disaster and certainly in the garment industry in
and certainly in the garment industry in
and certainly in the garment industry in history once again this building and the
history once again this building and the
history once again this building and the factories in it had all been inspected
factories in it had all been inspected
factories in it had all been inspected under corporate responsibility programs
under corporate responsibility programs
under corporate responsibility programs well you may be wondering why we’ll just
well you may be wondering why we’ll just
well you may be wondering why we’ll just take these jobs but they take these jobs
take these jobs but they take these jobs
take these jobs but they take these jobs because as dangerous as they are they’re
because as dangerous as they are they’re
because as dangerous as they are they’re better for these workers than the
better for these workers than the
better for these workers than the alternatives and maybe workers are
alternatives and maybe workers are
alternatives and maybe workers are better off overtime taking these jobs to
better off overtime taking these jobs to
better off overtime taking these jobs to explore these questions
explore these questions
explore these questions my students and I including
my students and I including
my students and I including undergraduates and graduate students at
undergraduates and graduate students at
undergraduates and graduate students at UCSB did a study for the Center for
UCSB did a study for the Center for
UCSB did a study for the Center for American Progress where he looked at the
American Progress where he looked at the
American Progress where he looked at the wages and the apparel industry in the 15
wages and the apparel industry in the 15
wages and the apparel industry in the 15 countries that export the most apparel
countries that export the most apparel
countries that export the most apparel to the United States comparing wages and
to the United States comparing wages and
to the United States comparing wages and 2001 and 2011 we wondered if maybe wages
2001 and 2011 we wondered if maybe wages
2001 and 2011 we wondered if maybe wages had gone up over this 11-year period
had gone up over this 11-year period
had gone up over this 11-year period once you took into account the effects
once you took into account the effects
once you took into account the effects of inflation in this sector what we
of inflation in this sector what we
of inflation in this sector what we found actually is that wages went down
found actually is that wages went down
found actually is that wages went down and two-thirds of these factories over
and two-thirds of these factories over
and two-thirds of these factories over this period and we also found that with
this period and we also found that with
this period and we also found that with no exception did wages come close to
no exception did wages come close to
no exception did wages come close to approximating a wage that workers could
approximating a wage that workers could
approximating a wage that workers could live on a living wage in fact wages were
live on a living wage in fact wages were
live on a living wage in fact wages were typically a quarter to a fifth of a
typically a quarter to a fifth of a
typically a quarter to a fifth of a living wage so clearly it seems to me
living wage so clearly it seems to me
living wage so clearly it seems to me corporate responsibility has not worked
corporate responsibility has not worked
corporate responsibility has not worked so what can be done well one thing I
so what can be done well one thing I
so what can be done well one thing I think that can’t be done just let the
think that can’t be done just let the
think that can’t be done just let the Fox guard the chicken coop I don’t have
Fox guard the chicken coop I don’t have
Fox guard the chicken coop I don’t have to finish the phrase but you know the
to finish the phrase but you know the
to finish the phrase but you know the chickens get eaten when that happens so
chickens get eaten when that happens so
chickens get eaten when that happens so I’m going to point out by way of
I’m going to point out by way of
I’m going to point out by way of conclusion three things that hold
conclusion three things that hold
conclusion three things that hold promise first after the Rana Plaza
promise first after the Rana Plaza
promise first after the Rana Plaza collapse it was so truly horrific that
collapse it was so truly horrific that
collapse it was so truly horrific that the firms that operate in Bangladesh and
the firms that operate in Bangladesh and
the firms that operate in Bangladesh and I put up a list of them here pretty much
I put up a list of them here pretty much
I put up a list of them here pretty much every major firm got together under
every major firm got together under
every major firm got together under pressure from unions and activists and
pressure from unions and activists and
pressure from unions and activists and created something called the Accord on
created something called the Accord on
created something called the Accord on fire and building safety in Bangladesh
fire and building safety in Bangladesh
fire and building safety in Bangladesh it is precedent setting because for the
it is precedent setting because for the
it is precedent setting because for the first time to my knowledge in the global
first time to my knowledge in the global
first time to my knowledge in the global any global industry the brands and
any global industry the brands and
any global industry the brands and retailers that hire independently owned
retailers that hire independently owned
retailers that hire independently owned contract factories have agreed to
contract factories have agreed to
contract factories have agreed to inspect these factories
inspect these factories
inspect these factories and make sure they are repaired and pay
and make sure they are repaired and pay
and make sure they are repaired and pay for the repairs if necessary and make
for the repairs if necessary and make
for the repairs if necessary and make this Agreement legally enforceable this
this Agreement legally enforceable this
this Agreement legally enforceable this establishes what I call the principle of
establishes what I call the principle of
establishes what I call the principle of joint liability does away with the
joint liability does away with the
joint liability does away with the fiction that the brands that use
fiction that the brands that use
fiction that the brands that use factories have no legal obligation
factories have no legal obligation
factories have no legal obligation because the factories are independently
because the factories are independently
because the factories are independently owned not two firms didn’t want to sign
owned not two firms didn’t want to sign
owned not two firms didn’t want to sign this because they didn’t like the
this because they didn’t like the
this because they didn’t like the implication that they might be legally
implication that they might be legally
implication that they might be legally bound setting a precedent so GAAP and
bound setting a precedent so GAAP and
bound setting a precedent so GAAP and Walmart created their own agreement
Walmart created their own agreement
Walmart created their own agreement called the Alliance for worker safety
called the Alliance for worker safety
called the Alliance for worker safety which is not legally binding obligates
which is not legally binding obligates
which is not legally binding obligates nobody to pay anything and it’s been
nobody to pay anything and it’s been
nobody to pay anything and it’s been signed by a couple of dozen firms under
signed by a couple of dozen firms under
signed by a couple of dozen firms under the Accord some 1,500 factories have
the Accord some 1,500 factories have
the Accord some 1,500 factories have been expected a hundred and ten thousand
been expected a hundred and ten thousand
been expected a hundred and ten thousand violations have been found half of which
violations have been found half of which
violations have been found half of which have been corrected and 150 factories
have been corrected and 150 factories
have been corrected and 150 factories have been closed is simply untenable and
have been closed is simply untenable and
have been closed is simply untenable and now the heavy lifting begins to see if
now the heavy lifting begins to see if
now the heavy lifting begins to see if the other factories can be fixed up that
the other factories can be fixed up that
the other factories can be fixed up that leads me to the second point workers
leads me to the second point workers
leads me to the second point workers workers around the world are not
workers around the world are not
workers around the world are not quiescent and passive they are active so
quiescent and passive they are active so
quiescent and passive they are active so in Ronal so in Bangladesh after the Rana
in Ronal so in Bangladesh after the Rana
in Ronal so in Bangladesh after the Rana Plaza collapse 70,000 workers took to
Plaza collapse 70,000 workers took to
Plaza collapse 70,000 workers took to the streets and demanded higher wages
the streets and demanded higher wages
the streets and demanded higher wages the spotlight was on by the desh at this
the spotlight was on by the desh at this
the spotlight was on by the desh at this moment the world was watching the brands
moment the world was watching the brands
moment the world was watching the brands that produce in Bangladesh H&M all the
that produce in Bangladesh H&M all the
that produce in Bangladesh H&M all the companies that are there put huge
companies that are there put huge
companies that are there put huge pressure on the Bangladesh government to
pressure on the Bangladesh government to
pressure on the Bangladesh government to respond and wages went up 71 percent
respond and wages went up 71 percent
respond and wages went up 71 percent workers got a 71 percent wage increase
workers got a 71 percent wage increase
workers got a 71 percent wage increase that brought wages in Bangladesh up to
that brought wages in Bangladesh up to
that brought wages in Bangladesh up to about a quarter of a living wage by the
about a quarter of a living wage by the
about a quarter of a living wage by the way now I don’t mean to suggest that
way now I don’t mean to suggest that
way now I don’t mean to suggest that Bangladesh is a worker’s paradise
Bangladesh is a worker’s paradise
Bangladesh is a worker’s paradise last month in December workers went out
last month in December workers went out
last month in December workers went out on strike against some 50,000 workers
on strike against some 50,000 workers
on strike against some 50,000 workers the result was thousands lost their job
the result was thousands lost their job
the result was thousands lost their job and the government jailed a couple
and the government jailed a couple
and the government jailed a couple hundred union organizers the differences
hundred union organizers the differences
hundred union organizers the differences the world is not watching now the
the world is not watching now the
the world is not watching now the spotlight is not on Bangladesh which
spotlight is not on Bangladesh which
spotlight is not on Bangladesh which brings me to the third approach which
brings me to the third approach which
brings me to the third approach which involves all of us as consumers the
involves all of us as consumers the
involves all of us as consumers the reason that Jenny Chan was
reason that Jenny Chan was
reason that Jenny Chan was and focusing attention on fox continents
and focusing attention on fox continents
and focusing attention on fox continents because the news media picked it up and
because the news media picked it up and
because the news media picked it up and consumers got involved the reason that
consumers got involved the reason that
consumers got involved the reason that the protests after Rana Plaza were
the protests after Rana Plaza were
the protests after Rana Plaza were successful was that the world was
successful was that the world was
successful was that the world was watching so it’s up to us to make the
watching so it’s up to us to make the
watching so it’s up to us to make the world watch and I want to give you one
world watch and I want to give you one
world watch and I want to give you one example where this is worked in the
example where this is worked in the
example where this is worked in the university sector which applies to many
university sector which applies to many
university sector which applies to many of the students here today so students
of the students here today so students
of the students here today so students across the United States over the years
across the United States over the years
across the United States over the years have formed organizations and put
have formed organizations and put
have formed organizations and put pressures on their campuses
pressures on their campuses
pressures on their campuses to make sure that anything for example
to make sure that anything for example
to make sure that anything for example that is sold in the bookstore here the
that is sold in the bookstore here the
that is sold in the bookstore here the with the El Gaucho on it or with UCSB on
with the El Gaucho on it or with UCSB on
with the El Gaucho on it or with UCSB on it is made under a code of conduct that
it is made under a code of conduct that
it is made under a code of conduct that protects the workers throughout the
protects the workers throughout the
protects the workers throughout the supply chain that make it I put up a
supply chain that make it I put up a
supply chain that make it I put up a couple of provisions of the code of
couple of provisions of the code of
couple of provisions of the code of conduct here transparency the name and
conduct here transparency the name and
conduct here transparency the name and address of every factory in the supply
address of every factory in the supply
address of every factory in the supply chain so independent monitors such as
chain so independent monitors such as
chain so independent monitors such as the worker rights consortium which was
the worker rights consortium which was
the worker rights consortium which was created to oversee this can go into
created to oversee this can go into
created to oversee this can go into those factories the payment of a living
those factories the payment of a living
those factories the payment of a living wage and most important in my view the
wage and most important in my view the
wage and most important in my view the right of workers in these factories the
right of workers in these factories the
right of workers in these factories the farmer union to argue over their own
farmer union to argue over their own
farmer union to argue over their own wages what they think is fair and I’m
wages what they think is fair and I’m
wages what they think is fair and I’m proud to say that I was on the committee
proud to say that I was on the committee
proud to say that I was on the committee and the office of the UC president that
and the office of the UC president that
and the office of the UC president that drafted our original code of conduct and
drafted our original code of conduct and
drafted our original code of conduct and I’m on the committee which is
I’m on the committee which is
I’m on the committee which is strengthening their code today with
strengthening their code today with
strengthening their code today with support I should add from the business
support I should add from the business
support I should add from the business people from all 10 campuses there are
people from all 10 campuses there are
people from all 10 campuses there are other things you could do I put up some
other things you could do I put up some
other things you could do I put up some things here fair trade not perfect we
things here fair trade not perfect we
things here fair trade not perfect we don’t really know how far down the
don’t really know how far down the
don’t really know how far down the supply chain the fairness goes or is it
supply chain the fairness goes or is it
supply chain the fairness goes or is it just ecological but a start looking for
just ecological but a start looking for
just ecological but a start looking for a union label apps for your smart phones
a union label apps for your smart phones
a union label apps for your smart phones such as good guide which you can
such as good guide which you can
such as good guide which you can download for free and which lists
download for free and which lists
download for free and which lists thousands of brands and everything
thousands of brands and everything
thousands of brands and everything that’s known about them in terms of
that’s known about them in terms of
that’s known about them in terms of Labor and environmental practices and
Labor and environmental practices and
Labor and environmental practices and finally you can buy from a company that
finally you can buy from a company that
finally you can buy from a company that actually does the right thing one such
actually does the right thing one such
actually does the right thing one such company is called alta gracia it’s in
company is called alta gracia it’s in
company is called alta gracia it’s in the dominican republic
the dominican republic
the dominican republic workers are fully unionized and they are
workers are fully unionized and they are
workers are fully unionized and they are paid three and a half times the
paid three and a half times the
paid three and a half times the prevailing wage in dominican republic
prevailing wage in dominican republic
prevailing wage in dominican republic and you can buy alta gracia products
and you can buy alta gracia products
and you can buy alta gracia products in the UCSB bookstore as well as are
in the UCSB bookstore as well as are
in the UCSB bookstore as well as are there college campuses finally just to
there college campuses finally just to
there college campuses finally just to repeat student activism students have
repeat student activism students have
repeat student activism students have been on the forefront of putting this on
been on the forefront of putting this on
been on the forefront of putting this on the agenda really for the last 15 to 20
the agenda really for the last 15 to 20
the agenda really for the last 15 to 20 years there’s a local chapter of United
years there’s a local chapter of United
years there’s a local chapter of United Students Against Sweatshops as you can
Students Against Sweatshops as you can
Students Against Sweatshops as you can see from this picture it’s a lot of fun
see from this picture it’s a lot of fun
see from this picture it’s a lot of fun and it is a way for students to make a
and it is a way for students to make a
and it is a way for students to make a difference and I’d be happy to talk to
difference and I’d be happy to talk to
difference and I’d be happy to talk to any students in this room about how to
any students in this room about how to
any students in this room about how to get involved so let me just conclude by
get involved so let me just conclude by
get involved so let me just conclude by reminding us as we learn from the civil
reminding us as we learn from the civil
reminding us as we learn from the civil rights movement it doesn’t take millions
rights movement it doesn’t take millions
rights movement it doesn’t take millions of people to make a difference it takes
of people to make a difference it takes
of people to make a difference it takes a small group of committed people the
a small group of committed people the
a small group of committed people the quote from anthropologist Margaret Mead
quote from anthropologist Margaret Mead
quote from anthropologist Margaret Mead always inspires me never think that us a
always inspires me never think that us a
always inspires me never think that us a small group of thoughtful committed
small group of thoughtful committed
small group of thoughtful committed individuals can’t make a difference
individuals can’t make a difference
individuals can’t make a difference indeed it is the only thing that ever
indeed it is the only thing that ever
indeed it is the only thing that ever has
has
has it is really incumbent on all of us to
it is really incumbent on all of us to
it is really incumbent on all of us to reach out and do something to make a
reach out and do something to make a
reach out and do something to make a difference in the lives of the people
difference in the lives of the people
difference in the lives of the people who make all the stuff we enjoy every
who make all the stuff we enjoy every
who make all the stuff we enjoy every day thank you
day thank you
day thank you [Applause]
”
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