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The Tools We Wear | Keila McCracken | TEDxBemidji


clothing is one of the most

clothing is one of the most underutilized tools in the human tool

underutilized tools in the human tool

underutilized tools in the human tool box and just like any other tool it can

box and just like any other tool it can

box and just like any other tool it can be used to enact change I’m an

be used to enact change I’m an

be used to enact change I’m an anthropologist by trade a very proud one

anthropologist by trade a very proud one

anthropologist by trade a very proud one and anthropologists study humans and we

and anthropologists study humans and we

and anthropologists study humans and we study how humans have evolved from past

study how humans have evolved from past

study how humans have evolved from past apprentice present and even the future

apprentice present and even the future

apprentice present and even the future as well and we pay attention to what has

as well and we pay attention to what has

as well and we pay attention to what has impacted humans and the way that they

impacted humans and the way that they

impacted humans and the way that they live and how humans have impacted

live and how humans have impacted

live and how humans have impacted anything else

anything else

anything else and part of anthropology is also

and part of anthropology is also

and part of anthropology is also studying tools and that’s one of my

studying tools and that’s one of my

studying tools and that’s one of my favorite parts about anthropology’s you

favorite parts about anthropology’s you

favorite parts about anthropology’s you get a geek out about least tools our

get a geek out about least tools our

get a geek out about least tools our tool is a device used to carry out a

tool is a device used to carry out a

tool is a device used to carry out a particular function some of the oldest

particular function some of the oldest

particular function some of the oldest tools used by humans are something as

tools used by humans are something as

tools used by humans are something as simple as fire a stick or rock but for

simple as fire a stick or rock but for

simple as fire a stick or rock but for today I’m going to use an example of a

today I’m going to use an example of a

today I’m going to use an example of a hammer because that’s something very

hammer because that’s something very

hammer because that’s something very familiar to all of us and a hammer can

familiar to all of us and a hammer can

familiar to all of us and a hammer can be used to build something and also can

be used to build something and also can

be used to build something and also can be used to dismantle something the best

be used to dismantle something the best

be used to dismantle something the best tools are multifunctional now along with

tools are multifunctional now along with

tools are multifunctional now along with being an anthropologist and also a

being an anthropologist and also a

being an anthropologist and also a fashion designer in these two fields

fashion designer in these two fields

fashion designer in these two fields give me a unique lens to study clothing

give me a unique lens to study clothing

give me a unique lens to study clothing as a tool colon has been used for over a

as a tool colon has been used for over a

as a tool colon has been used for over a hundred and seventy thousand years you

hundred and seventy thousand years you

hundred and seventy thousand years you might have noticed that we still wear it

might have noticed that we still wear it

might have noticed that we still wear it and it is still very much needed in our

and it is still very much needed in our

and it is still very much needed in our world clothing is a tool that we use

world clothing is a tool that we use

world clothing is a tool that we use daily it is something so common to our

daily it is something so common to our

daily it is something so common to our way of living that we often don’t think

way of living that we often don’t think

way of living that we often don’t think about it as something that is important

about it as something that is important

about it as something that is important or something that is impactful to be

or something that is impactful to be

or something that is impactful to be honest

honest

honest clothing is under considered so consider

clothing is under considered so consider

clothing is under considered so consider this clothing is the second biggest

this clothing is the second biggest

this clothing is the second biggest polluting industry in the world second

polluting industry in the world second

polluting industry in the world second only to agriculture because of this

only to agriculture because of this

only to agriculture because of this twenty percent of the global industrial

twenty percent of the global industrial

twenty percent of the global industrial water pollution comes from textiles now

water pollution comes from textiles now

water pollution comes from textiles now in terms of some social impacts over 70

in terms of some social impacts over 70

in terms of some social impacts over 70 million people in our world are employed

million people in our world are employed

million people in our world are employed by this industry between 1/6 and 1/7 of

by this industry between 1/6 and 1/7 of

by this industry between 1/6 and 1/7 of all the women in our world are employed

all the women in our world are employed

all the women in our world are employed in this industry

in this industry

in this industry which arguably makes it the base

which arguably makes it the base

which arguably makes it the base contributing factor to the gender wage

contributing factor to the gender wage

contributing factor to the gender wage gap in terms of economic impacts if you

gap in terms of economic impacts if you

gap in terms of economic impacts if you are a factory worker in India you earn

are a factory worker in India you earn

are a factory worker in India you earn sixty-eight dollars a month on average

sixty-eight dollars a month on average

sixty-eight dollars a month on average in Thailand 234 dollars a month Cambodia

in Thailand 234 dollars a month Cambodia

in Thailand 234 dollars a month Cambodia 128 dollars a month and Bangladesh 68

128 dollars a month and Bangladesh 68

128 dollars a month and Bangladesh 68 dollars a month now in Bangladesh the

dollars a month now in Bangladesh the

dollars a month now in Bangladesh the specific example that’s 48 percent of a

specific example that’s 48 percent of a

specific example that’s 48 percent of a livable wage when we factor in clothing

livable wage when we factor in clothing

livable wage when we factor in clothing as something that connects us to

as something that connects us to

as something that connects us to environments economies and communities

environments economies and communities

environments economies and communities around the world shouldn’t we consider

around the world shouldn’t we consider

around the world shouldn’t we consider it a bit more we all already participate

it a bit more we all already participate

it a bit more we all already participate in this global system and this global

in this global system and this global

in this global system and this global system presents challenges but also

system presents challenges but also

system presents challenges but also incredible opportunities for example and

incredible opportunities for example and

incredible opportunities for example and this is what makes me the most excited

this is what makes me the most excited

this is what makes me the most excited about this system is that we have never

about this system is that we have never

about this system is that we have never been more connected with the world than

been more connected with the world than

been more connected with the world than we are today

we are today

we are today not just technologically or socially but

not just technologically or socially but

not just technologically or socially but physically as well within the garment

physically as well within the garment

physically as well within the garment industry it is one of the few industries

industry it is one of the few industries

industry it is one of the few industries still today that depends on human labour

still today that depends on human labour

still today that depends on human labour for production and there is a potential

for production and there is a potential

for production and there is a potential that every single garment that is made

that every single garment that is made

that every single garment that is made in the industry could be touched by a

in the industry could be touched by a

in the industry could be touched by a hundred different people before it ends

hundred different people before it ends

hundred different people before it ends up in the store where you purchase it

up in the store where you purchase it

up in the store where you purchase it there’s an entire story to a garment

there’s an entire story to a garment

there’s an entire story to a garment before we even connect with it and see

before we even connect with it and see

before we even connect with it and see it in the store this means that we are

it in the store this means that we are

it in the store this means that we are directly tied with people throughout the

directly tied with people throughout the

directly tied with people throughout the entire world do something as simple as a

entire world do something as simple as a

entire world do something as simple as a garment we are tied to them and they are

garment we are tied to them and they are

garment we are tied to them and they are tied to us as consumers we have created

tied to us as consumers we have created

tied to us as consumers we have created and fuelled the demand where entire

and fuelled the demand where entire

and fuelled the demand where entire populations economies depend on us for

populations economies depend on us for

populations economies depend on us for their livelihoods there are parts of

their livelihoods there are parts of

their livelihoods there are parts of this system the needs be supported and

this system the needs be supported and

this system the needs be supported and sustained like the people that make up

sustained like the people that make up

sustained like the people that make up the workforce the environments that

the workforce the environments that

the workforce the environments that support it and the economies that are

support it and the economies that are

support it and the economies that are affected

affected

affected we as consumers have an impact on this

we as consumers have an impact on this

we as consumers have an impact on this system our demand made it what it is

system our demand made it what it is

system our demand made it what it is today so but if you use our demand to

today so but if you use our demand to

today so but if you use our demand to make the system work for us but also the

make the system work for us but also the

make the system work for us but also the people that grow process die-cut and so

people that grow process die-cut and so

people that grow process die-cut and so the clothing that we wear I’m going to

the clothing that we wear I’m going to

the clothing that we wear I’m going to give you three quick examples of

give you three quick examples of

give you three quick examples of positive efforts places in the world

positive efforts places in the world

positive efforts places in the world where these solutions are already

where these solutions are already

where these solutions are already working number one an economic solution

working number one an economic solution

working number one an economic solution is fair trade and this is as simple as

is fair trade and this is as simple as

is fair trade and this is as simple as people are paid a fair amount for their

people are paid a fair amount for their

people are paid a fair amount for their labor and they all certain liveable

labor and they all certain liveable

labor and they all certain liveable wages a social effort is transparency so

wages a social effort is transparency so

wages a social effort is transparency so transparency is where a business that is

transparency is where a business that is

transparency is where a business that is open about how a product is made and

open about how a product is made and

open about how a product is made and they want to engage you as a consumer

they want to engage you as a consumer

they want to engage you as a consumer and they want to educate you as a

and they want to educate you as a

and they want to educate you as a consumer about that production they want

consumer about that production they want

consumer about that production they want to involve you some brands go so far

to involve you some brands go so far

to involve you some brands go so far then on every tag on your garment that

then on every tag on your garment that

then on every tag on your garment that says what it’s made out of and where it

says what it’s made out of and where it

says what it’s made out of and where it was made there’s a little code that you

was made there’s a little code that you

was made there’s a little code that you can go online to the website you can

can go online to the website you can

can go online to the website you can type in that code and you can see

type in that code and you can see

type in that code and you can see exactly where your garment has traveled

exactly where your garment has traveled

exactly where your garment has traveled throughout the world sometimes you can

throughout the world sometimes you can

throughout the world sometimes you can figure out who actually worked and

figure out who actually worked and

figure out who actually worked and touched on your garment in environmental

touched on your garment in environmental

touched on your garment in environmental terms there are entirely different

terms there are entirely different

terms there are entirely different alternative fashion systems that exist

alternative fashion systems that exist

alternative fashion systems that exist an example of this is a fiber shed a

an example of this is a fiber shed a

an example of this is a fiber shed a fiber shed is where all resources that

fiber shed is where all resources that

fiber shed is where all resources that you need to produce your clothing comes

you need to produce your clothing comes

you need to produce your clothing comes from your local area so that includes

from your local area so that includes

from your local area so that includes both human and natural resources this is

both human and natural resources this is

both human and natural resources this is all sourced locally in a sustainable way

all sourced locally in a sustainable way

all sourced locally in a sustainable way that supports your like local economy

that supports your like local economy

that supports your like local economy community and environment these examples

community and environment these examples

community and environment these examples represent Ray’s in which you can make a

represent Ray’s in which you can make a

represent Ray’s in which you can make a positive impact when you do decide to

positive impact when you do decide to

positive impact when you do decide to purchase something new in other words

purchase something new in other words

purchase something new in other words when building from the ground up use the

when building from the ground up use the

when building from the ground up use the hammer to build structures that we want

hammer to build structures that we want

hammer to build structures that we want to see let’s use our purchasing power to

to see let’s use our purchasing power to

to see let’s use our purchasing power to build and sustain the world that we want

build and sustain the world that we want

build and sustain the world that we want to see but remember there are multiple

to see but remember there are multiple

to see but remember there are multiple ways to use a tool we can also use it to

ways to use a tool we can also use it to

ways to use a tool we can also use it to dismantle

dismantle

dismantle and then also to rebuild again we all

and then also to rebuild again we all

and then also to rebuild again we all already have the tools in our closets

already have the tools in our closets

already have the tools in our closets needed to rebuild remember at any stage

needed to rebuild remember at any stage

needed to rebuild remember at any stage we still have the capability of making

we still have the capability of making

we still have the capability of making decisions that reflects who we are and

decisions that reflects who we are and

decisions that reflects who we are and make positive impacts through our

make positive impacts through our

make positive impacts through our clothing we all have clothing in our

clothing we all have clothing in our

clothing we all have clothing in our closets that are made in this global

closets that are made in this global

closets that are made in this global system so this is what we can do now

system so this is what we can do now

system so this is what we can do now that we own them number one we can

that we own them number one we can

that we own them number one we can launder lightly the footprint that you

launder lightly the footprint that you

launder lightly the footprint that you use for laundering can be reduced eighty

use for laundering can be reduced eighty

use for laundering can be reduced eighty two percent of energy that is tied or

two percent of energy that is tied or

two percent of energy that is tied or eighty two percent of energy consumption

eighty two percent of energy consumption

eighty two percent of energy consumption that is tied to clothing is directly

that is tied to clothing is directly

that is tied to clothing is directly tied to use your care it’s after it’s

tied to use your care it’s after it’s

tied to use your care it’s after it’s already made when it’s in your hands in

already made when it’s in your hands in

already made when it’s in your hands in your home something as simple as washing

your home something as simple as washing

your home something as simple as washing your clothes in cold water or deciding

your clothes in cold water or deciding

your clothes in cold water or deciding not to use the dryer is a really simple

not to use the dryer is a really simple

not to use the dryer is a really simple example of what you do for that also pay

example of what you do for that also pay

example of what you do for that also pay attention to fiber content so synthetic

attention to fiber content so synthetic

attention to fiber content so synthetic fibers something like nylon or polyester

fibers something like nylon or polyester

fibers something like nylon or polyester so these are man-made fibers that are

so these are man-made fibers that are

so these are man-made fibers that are chemically based in their processing

chemically based in their processing

chemically based in their processing whenever an individual synthetic garment

whenever an individual synthetic garment

whenever an individual synthetic garment is washed over 1900 synthetic plastic

is washed over 1900 synthetic plastic

is washed over 1900 synthetic plastic fibers are released into our waterways

fibers are released into our waterways

fibers are released into our waterways as pollutants something as simple as a

as pollutants something as simple as a

as pollutants something as simple as a garment bag that’s specifically designed

garment bag that’s specifically designed

garment bag that’s specifically designed to clasp collect those plastic fibers

to clasp collect those plastic fibers

to clasp collect those plastic fibers can prevent that pollution from

can prevent that pollution from

can prevent that pollution from happening also pay attention to what

happening also pay attention to what

happening also pay attention to what what materials you do wear something as

what materials you do wear something as

what materials you do wear something as simple as wearing natural materials or

simple as wearing natural materials or

simple as wearing natural materials or this is my favorite is wearing materials

this is my favorite is wearing materials

this is my favorite is wearing materials that need to be washed less like hemp or

that need to be washed less like hemp or

that need to be washed less like hemp or wool so a second solution that we can

wool so a second solution that we can

wool so a second solution that we can all do mending is minding this is my

all do mending is minding this is my

all do mending is minding this is my favorite I am biased about this garments

favorite I am biased about this garments

favorite I am biased about this garments are currently made to fall apart that’s

are currently made to fall apart that’s

are currently made to fall apart that’s a part of a business plan to be honest

a part of a business plan to be honest

a part of a business plan to be honest if if something is designed to fall

if if something is designed to fall

if if something is designed to fall apart then you have to return and you

apart then you have to return and you

apart then you have to return and you have to keep consuming and it becomes a

have to keep consuming and it becomes a

have to keep consuming and it becomes a dependent cycle into which you are

dependent cycle into which you are

dependent cycle into which you are dependent on that supplier once the

dependent on that supplier once the

dependent on that supplier once the government falls apart you have to

government falls apart you have to

government falls apart you have to return it and you have to keep returning

return it and you have to keep returning

return it and you have to keep returning these are my jeans

these are my jeans

these are my jeans ah they’re well-loved it’s invented over

ah they’re well-loved it’s invented over

ah they’re well-loved it’s invented over 40 times and I’m looking at two

40 times and I’m looking at two

40 times and I’m looking at two additional holes that will be mended

additional holes that will be mended

additional holes that will be mended later this week I’ve had these jeans for

later this week I’ve had these jeans for

later this week I’ve had these jeans for 10 years now within that time if I did

10 years now within that time if I did

10 years now within that time if I did not mend these pants I should have

not mend these pants I should have

not mend these pants I should have consumed 20 pairs of jeans not just in

consumed 20 pairs of jeans not just in

consumed 20 pairs of jeans not just in my closet but 20 pairs of jeans just to

my closet but 20 pairs of jeans just to

my closet but 20 pairs of jeans just to replace this one pair I originally

replace this one pair I originally

replace this one pair I originally started mending these pants because I do

started mending these pants because I do

started mending these pants because I do not like shopping I do not especially

not like shopping I do not especially

not like shopping I do not especially like Jean shopping and I was too lazy to

like Jean shopping and I was too lazy to

like Jean shopping and I was too lazy to go to the store now I mend them because

go to the store now I mend them because

go to the store now I mend them because I spent so much time and energy

I spent so much time and energy

I spent so much time and energy repairing and mending these pants

repairing and mending these pants

repairing and mending these pants maintaining them they are my most loved

maintaining them they are my most loved

maintaining them they are my most loved and favorite garments in my wardrobe a

and favorite garments in my wardrobe a

and favorite garments in my wardrobe a third option dispose responsibly million

third option dispose responsibly million

third option dispose responsibly million tons of garments are thrown away

tons of garments are thrown away

tons of garments are thrown away annually into the landfill when you do

annually into the landfill when you do

annually into the landfill when you do dispose of your clothing donated to

dispose of your clothing donated to

dispose of your clothing donated to resources that can be so we use or sell

resources that can be so we use or sell

resources that can be so we use or sell their waste to other industries the

their waste to other industries the

their waste to other industries the perfect example is just bringing your

perfect example is just bringing your

perfect example is just bringing your clothing to a secondhand store but also

clothing to a secondhand store but also

clothing to a secondhand store but also pay attention to the waste that you

pay attention to the waste that you

pay attention to the waste that you already have in your closet seventy

already have in your closet seventy

already have in your closet seventy percent of garments in our wardrobe are

percent of garments in our wardrobe are

percent of garments in our wardrobe are inactive we don’t even wear them this

inactive we don’t even wear them this

inactive we don’t even wear them this means you can easily get rid of 50% of

means you can easily get rid of 50% of

means you can easily get rid of 50% of your closet and you can dress the way

your closet and you can dress the way

your closet and you can dress the way that you normally would identify what

that you normally would identify what

that you normally would identify what you are not using and dispose of it in a

you are not using and dispose of it in a

you are not using and dispose of it in a way that can be reused and a fourth

way that can be reused and a fourth

way that can be reused and a fourth option recompose thoughtfully think

option recompose thoughtfully think

option recompose thoughtfully think before you consume Americans buy 20

before you consume Americans buy 20

before you consume Americans buy 20 billion 20 billion pieces of clothing

billion 20 billion pieces of clothing

billion 20 billion pieces of clothing per year to break that down that’s 68

per year to break that down that’s 68

per year to break that down that’s 68 garments per person and 7 pairs of shoes

garments per person and 7 pairs of shoes

garments per person and 7 pairs of shoes a year when you think about buying

a year when you think about buying

a year when you think about buying something ask yourself is there a way I

something ask yourself is there a way I

something ask yourself is there a way I can meet this want or this need with

can meet this want or this need with

can meet this want or this need with something that I already have that can

something that I already have that can

something that I already have that can be altered or can I borrow it from

be altered or can I borrow it from

be altered or can I borrow it from someone else

someone else

someone else and when you do decide to invest in a

and when you do decide to invest in a

and when you do decide to invest in a new garment think about the impacts that

new garment think about the impacts that

new garment think about the impacts that you

you

you want to make if environmental

want to make if environmental

want to make if environmental environmental consciousness is important

environmental consciousness is important

environmental consciousness is important to you find brands that share those same

to you find brands that share those same

to you find brands that share those same values its social responsibility is

values its social responsibility is

values its social responsibility is important that to you then find brands

important that to you then find brands

important that to you then find brands that also want to support that if you

that also want to support that if you

that also want to support that if you want to buy local than buy local odds

want to buy local than buy local odds

want to buy local than buy local odds are you’re perfect environmentally

are you’re perfect environmentally

are you’re perfect environmentally socially and economically sustainable

socially and economically sustainable

socially and economically sustainable garment is currently not out there and

garment is currently not out there and

garment is currently not out there and whatever style you personally like to

whatever style you personally like to

whatever style you personally like to wear whatever size you wear an exact

wear whatever size you wear an exact

wear whatever size you wear an exact shade of blue that you like to wear

shade of blue that you like to wear

shade of blue that you like to wear that’s okay we have to remember to keep

that’s okay we have to remember to keep

that’s okay we have to remember to keep at it and slowly through our collective

at it and slowly through our collective

at it and slowly through our collective demand we might increase the

demand we might increase the

demand we might increase the availability of a wider range from

availability of a wider range from

availability of a wider range from responsible fashion designers and brands

responsible fashion designers and brands

responsible fashion designers and brands most importantly find things that work

most importantly find things that work

most importantly find things that work for you many of these pants

for you many of these pants

for you many of these pants 40-times works for me as of your jeans

40-times works for me as of your jeans

40-times works for me as of your jeans will look different than my jeans find

will look different than my jeans find

will look different than my jeans find what works for you and go for it

what works for you and go for it

what works for you and go for it launder lightly mend mindfully dispose

launder lightly mend mindfully dispose

launder lightly mend mindfully dispose responsibly and recompose thoughtfully

responsibly and recompose thoughtfully

responsibly and recompose thoughtfully use the tool of clothing to deconstruct

use the tool of clothing to deconstruct

use the tool of clothing to deconstruct in a way that fits your values so I’m

in a way that fits your values so I’m

in a way that fits your values so I’m going to return to tools for a little

going to return to tools for a little

going to return to tools for a little bit because I just like talking about

bit because I just like talking about

bit because I just like talking about tools the creation use of tools is an

tools the creation use of tools is an

tools the creation use of tools is an identifying characteristic of humans but

identifying characteristic of humans but

identifying characteristic of humans but the capability to use tools is enhanced

the capability to use tools is enhanced

the capability to use tools is enhanced by another unique human trait humans use

by another unique human trait humans use

by another unique human trait humans use symbols and language to develop shared

symbols and language to develop shared

symbols and language to develop shared systems and shared beliefs when we use

systems and shared beliefs when we use

systems and shared beliefs when we use tools to the greatest potential toward

tools to the greatest potential toward

tools to the greatest potential toward our shared values and shared beliefs we

our shared values and shared beliefs we

our shared values and shared beliefs we have the power to change the world

have the power to change the world

have the power to change the world for example fire was originally used to

for example fire was originally used to

for example fire was originally used to keep us warm but also made it possible

keep us warm but also made it possible

keep us warm but also made it possible for humans to eat a wider variety of

for humans to eat a wider variety of

for humans to eat a wider variety of food and alter the state of physical

food and alter the state of physical

food and alter the state of physical materials that the use of that one tool

materials that the use of that one tool

materials that the use of that one tool has altered the course of history

has altered the course of history

has altered the course of history forever

forever

forever let us see clothing not only as

let us see clothing not only as

let us see clothing not only as something to keep us warm and protect us

something to keep us warm and protect us

something to keep us warm and protect us but a tool that is valuable and empowers

but a tool that is valuable and empowers

but a tool that is valuable and empowers us to create change clothing won’t

us to create change clothing won’t

us to create change clothing won’t change the world but the people who wear

change the world but the people who wear

change the world but the people who wear them will every garment we own and use

them will every garment we own and use

them will every garment we own and use as an opportunity an opportunity to

as an opportunity an opportunity to

as an opportunity an opportunity to start seeing how we are tied to

start seeing how we are tied to

start seeing how we are tied to communities economies and environments

communities economies and environments

communities economies and environments around the world one size does not fit

around the world one size does not fit

around the world one size does not fit all

all

all but find the solutions that work for you

but find the solutions that work for you

but find the solutions that work for you and that your actions reflect what you

and that your actions reflect what you

and that your actions reflect what you believe any of what you want for our

believe any of what you want for our

believe any of what you want for our world thank you

world thank you

world thank you [Applause]

[Applause]

[Applause] [Music]

”

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