can a sweater stitch together the world those were increasingly aware of just
those were increasingly aware of just
those were increasingly aware of just how removed we are from how wear our
how removed we are from how wear our
how removed we are from how wear our clothes are made maybe a better question
clothes are made maybe a better question
clothes are made maybe a better question is could a sweater become a symbol of
is could a sweater become a symbol of
is could a sweater become a symbol of how the world could be stitched together
how the world could be stitched together
how the world could be stitched together in the effort to create a more ethical
in the effort to create a more ethical
in the effort to create a more ethical and sustainable production model
and sustainable production model
and sustainable production model according to the global fashion agenda
according to the global fashion agenda
according to the global fashion agenda and the Boston Consulting Group 2017
and the Boston Consulting Group 2017
and the Boston Consulting Group 2017 pulse of the fashion industry report the
pulse of the fashion industry report the
pulse of the fashion industry report the fashion industry as a whole
fashion industry as a whole
fashion industry as a whole rates just 32 out of a hundred on
rates just 32 out of a hundred on
rates just 32 out of a hundred on sustainability as our production
sustainability as our production
sustainability as our production container population continues to grow
container population continues to grow
container population continues to grow and it’s more evident just how stretched
and it’s more evident just how stretched
and it’s more evident just how stretched our resources are we think it’s
our resources are we think it’s
our resources are we think it’s important as a brand to look at the
important as a brand to look at the
important as a brand to look at the impact we’re having and to make sure
impact we’re having and to make sure
impact we’re having and to make sure that that impact isn’t a negative one
that that impact isn’t a negative one
that that impact isn’t a negative one and just really see how we can behave
and just really see how we can behave
and just really see how we can behave responsibly both environmentally and
responsibly both environmentally and
responsibly both environmentally and also socially socially a little about me
also socially socially a little about me
also socially socially a little about me I’m my name is Julie Conroy I grew up
I’m my name is Julie Conroy I grew up
I’m my name is Julie Conroy I grew up just outside of London I learned how to
just outside of London I learned how to
just outside of London I learned how to knit and sew as a child as most girls of
knit and sew as a child as most girls of
knit and sew as a child as most girls of my generation did I’m actually pretty
my generation did I’m actually pretty
my generation did I’m actually pretty bad at it so I’m not the one that does
bad at it so I’m not the one that does
bad at it so I’m not the one that does the knitting I am much more visual than
the knitting I am much more visual than
the knitting I am much more visual than hands-on I studied photography and
hands-on I studied photography and
hands-on I studied photography and design in Western Australia at the
design in Western Australia at the
design in Western Australia at the Institute of Technology there and I came
Institute of Technology there and I came
Institute of Technology there and I came to New York in 95 so I’ve been working
to New York in 95 so I’ve been working
to New York in 95 so I’ve been working in music mostly the photography and
in music mostly the photography and
in music mostly the photography and design industries since I’ve lived here
design industries since I’ve lived here
design industries since I’ve lived here to know a little about our company its
to know a little about our company its
to know a little about our company its first important that you know about the
first important that you know about the
first important that you know about the woman behind in Anya Kohl grew who is
woman behind in Anya Kohl grew who is
woman behind in Anya Kohl grew who is actually in the audience here tonight
actually in the audience here tonight
actually in the audience here tonight I’m Nicole grew up in communist Poland
I’m Nicole grew up in communist Poland
I’m Nicole grew up in communist Poland her mother’s mantra was if you need it
her mother’s mantra was if you need it
her mother’s mantra was if you need it you make it and that mindset took Anya
you make it and that mindset took Anya
you make it and that mindset took Anya through her career as a ballet dancer to
through her career as a ballet dancer to
through her career as a ballet dancer to when she was living in West Germany
when she was living in West Germany
when she was living in West Germany after she defected from Poland she was a
after she defected from Poland she was a
after she defected from Poland she was a single mother she was knitting to
single mother she was knitting to
single mother she was knitting to financially support herself and that
financially support herself and that
financially support herself and that mindset took her through to when she
mindset took her through to when she
mindset took her through to when she started her company here
started her company here
started her company here in New York City so our news first
in New York City so our news first
in New York City so our news first collection was in fall 2012 I came on
collection was in fall 2012 I came on
collection was in fall 2012 I came on boards for 2014 initially as her image
boards for 2014 initially as her image
boards for 2014 initially as her image director I was becoming more aware of
director I was becoming more aware of
director I was becoming more aware of the environmental and social impact that
the environmental and social impact that
the environmental and social impact that the fashion industry was having so I
the fashion industry was having so I
the fashion industry was having so I decided that we should look closer at
decided that we should look closer at
decided that we should look closer at what our company was doing in these
what our company was doing in these
what our company was doing in these areas being part of the industry I felt
areas being part of the industry I felt
areas being part of the industry I felt really it’s my responsibility to make
really it’s my responsibility to make
really it’s my responsibility to make sure our impact isn’t a negative one and
sure our impact isn’t a negative one and
sure our impact isn’t a negative one and what I found
what I found
what I found just by looking was that unintentionally
just by looking was that unintentionally
just by looking was that unintentionally Anya had actually created a company that
Anya had actually created a company that
Anya had actually created a company that was built on a socially ethical
was built on a socially ethical
was built on a socially ethical production model our sweaters are handed
production model our sweaters are handed
production model our sweaters are handed here in New York City and Anya insisted
here in New York City and Anya insisted
here in New York City and Anya insisted that that’s what we would do as a
that that’s what we would do as a
that that’s what we would do as a company because really being hands-on
company because really being hands-on
company because really being hands-on was the only way she knew how to work
was the only way she knew how to work
was the only way she knew how to work our knitters actually live in the five
our knitters actually live in the five
our knitters actually live in the five boroughs of the city and when we have
boroughs of the city and when we have
boroughs of the city and when we have orders they come to us to pick up their
orders they come to us to pick up their
orders they come to us to pick up their sweaters to go over the piece they’re
sweaters to go over the piece they’re
sweaters to go over the piece they’re going to knit
going to knit
going to knit get their yarn they then take that home
get their yarn they then take that home
get their yarn they then take that home bring it back to us when the piece is
bring it back to us when the piece is
bring it back to us when the piece is finished so most of these women are
finished so most of these women are
finished so most of these women are mothers or grandmothers who are raising
mothers or grandmothers who are raising
mothers or grandmothers who are raising children and being able to work from
children and being able to work from
children and being able to work from home really gives them the freedom to be
home really gives them the freedom to be
home really gives them the freedom to be able to put work around their home life
able to put work around their home life
able to put work around their home life their family and also just not having to
their family and also just not having to
their family and also just not having to worry about the high cost of childcare
so every piece that we know contains the
so every piece that we know contains the signature of the woman who knit the
signature of the woman who knit the
signature of the woman who knit the piece this is an example of their it’s
piece this is an example of their it’s
piece this is an example of their it’s wonderful lines of colored thread it’s a
wonderful lines of colored thread it’s a
wonderful lines of colored thread it’s a small symbol it’s just a small piece of
small symbol it’s just a small piece of
small symbol it’s just a small piece of thread but it’s listed humanizes a
thread but it’s listed humanizes a
thread but it’s listed humanizes a production chain it’s this unique
production chain it’s this unique
production chain it’s this unique signature that represents the woman who
signature that represents the woman who
signature that represents the woman who was responsible for crafting this piece
was responsible for crafting this piece
was responsible for crafting this piece that we sent out from the studio
that we sent out from the studio
that we sent out from the studio and it’s this symbol that connects her
and it’s this symbol that connects her
and it’s this symbol that connects her to you of the person who may end up
to you of the person who may end up
to you of the person who may end up wearing this sweater even in the luxury
wearing this sweater even in the luxury
wearing this sweater even in the luxury industry supply chains are complex and
industry supply chains are complex and
industry supply chains are complex and difficult to navigate and they can often
difficult to navigate and they can often
difficult to navigate and they can often scan multiple regions by keeping our
scan multiple regions by keeping our
scan multiple regions by keeping our production local we’re able to
production local we’re able to
production local we’re able to personally know who’s making all of our
personally know who’s making all of our
personally know who’s making all of our clothing and also we’re able to set the
clothing and also we’re able to set the
clothing and also we’re able to set the price that’s paid directly to each
price that’s paid directly to each
price that’s paid directly to each knitter another step on our journey to
knitter another step on our journey to
knitter another step on our journey to becoming a more sustainable company
becoming a more sustainable company
becoming a more sustainable company happened about two years ago when we
happened about two years ago when we
happened about two years ago when we were introduced to a company called June
were introduced to a company called June
were introduced to a company called June cashmere who are ethically sourcing yarn
cashmere who are ethically sourcing yarn
cashmere who are ethically sourcing yarn from small family farms in the alive
from small family farms in the alive
from small family farms in the alive valley of Kyrgyzstan so we decided it
valley of Kyrgyzstan so we decided it
valley of Kyrgyzstan so we decided it was important to journey to this region
was important to journey to this region
was important to journey to this region I actually went to see firsthand the
I actually went to see firsthand the
I actually went to see firsthand the initiatives that they said they were
initiatives that they said they were
initiatives that they said they were putting forward to help people stay on
putting forward to help people stay on
putting forward to help people stay on the villages that they grew up in so it
the villages that they grew up in so it
the villages that they grew up in so it was also a really good opportunity for
was also a really good opportunity for
was also a really good opportunity for us to be able to put a face on the
us to be able to put a face on the
us to be able to put a face on the people that were producing the fibers
people that were producing the fibers
people that were producing the fibers from this cashmere that we were going to
from this cashmere that we were going to
from this cashmere that we were going to be using so I took five days traveling
be using so I took five days traveling
be using so I took five days traveling around with people from the company and
around with people from the company and
around with people from the company and I met the men and women who heard the
I met the men and women who heard the
I met the men and women who heard the goats coordinate the villages and buy
goats coordinate the villages and buy
goats coordinate the villages and buy the fibers and I discovered a close-knit
the fibers and I discovered a close-knit
the fibers and I discovered a close-knit community who were being given an
community who were being given an
community who were being given an opportunity to earn money from the goats
opportunity to earn money from the goats
opportunity to earn money from the goats that they keep on their family farms
that they keep on their family farms
that they keep on their family farms whether that’s one or hundred I was
whether that’s one or hundred I was
whether that’s one or hundred I was there during combing season and I got to
there during combing season and I got to
there during combing season and I got to travel around with local employees from
travel around with local employees from
travel around with local employees from village to village while they were
village to village while they were
village to village while they were buying the fibers from these people no
buying the fibers from these people no
buying the fibers from these people no matter how small the amount and I saw
matter how small the amount and I saw
matter how small the amount and I saw people with little bags of 20 grams of
people with little bags of 20 grams of
people with little bags of 20 grams of fibers right through to people who had
fibers right through to people who had
fibers right through to people who had multiple kilos this companies also
multiple kilos this companies also
multiple kilos this companies also putting initiatives into place to train
putting initiatives into place to train
putting initiatives into place to train them onto how better manage their herd
them onto how better manage their herd
them onto how better manage their herd and collect their fibers and their
and collect their fibers and their
and collect their fibers and their reenergize industry that was basically
reenergize industry that was basically
reenergize industry that was basically lost after the collapse of the Soviet
lost after the collapse of the Soviet
lost after the collapse of the Soviet Union
and it was just incredible for us in the
and it was just incredible for us in the modern age when production chains are
modern age when production chains are
modern age when production chains are automated and anonymous to be able to
automated and anonymous to be able to
automated and anonymous to be able to put a face on every step of the supply
put a face on every step of the supply
put a face on every step of the supply chain from the person who was herding
chain from the person who was herding
chain from the person who was herding the goats in Central Asia right through
the goats in Central Asia right through
the goats in Central Asia right through to the woman in New York City who was
to the woman in New York City who was
to the woman in New York City who was knitting the final piece so what is the
knitting the final piece so what is the
knitting the final piece so what is the cost of an ethically responsible
cost of an ethically responsible
cost of an ethically responsible production model in the luxury sector
production model in the luxury sector
production model in the luxury sector spending $2,000 and up on a sweater is
spending $2,000 and up on a sweater is
spending $2,000 and up on a sweater is not unusual and that’s where our price
not unusual and that’s where our price
not unusual and that’s where our price point sets so how do we justify that as
point sets so how do we justify that as
point sets so how do we justify that as being the cost of a sweater in the 2017
being the cost of a sweater in the 2017
being the cost of a sweater in the 2017 post of the fashion industry report they
post of the fashion industry report they
post of the fashion industry report they stated that in general production
stated that in general production
stated that in general production accounts for 28% of the cost of a
accounts for 28% of the cost of a
accounts for 28% of the cost of a garment and 65% of that goes to wages in
garment and 65% of that goes to wages in
garment and 65% of that goes to wages in our production model 40 to 50 percent of
our production model 40 to 50 percent of
our production model 40 to 50 percent of the total cost of a sweater actually
the total cost of a sweater actually
the total cost of a sweater actually goes directly to labor directly to our
goes directly to labor directly to our
goes directly to labor directly to our knitters so then what I want to ask is
knitters so then what I want to ask is
knitters so then what I want to ask is shouldn’t true luxury being able to know
shouldn’t true luxury being able to know
shouldn’t true luxury being able to know who made your clothing and that that
who made your clothing and that that
who made your clothing and that that person was paid a fair price for their
person was paid a fair price for their
person was paid a fair price for their work and that traditional skills and
work and that traditional skills and
work and that traditional skills and craftsmanship sar being kept alive right
craftsmanship sar being kept alive right
craftsmanship sar being kept alive right now
now
now Hanyu is just a small company but we
Hanyu is just a small company but we
Hanyu is just a small company but we have about a hundred knitters on our
have about a hundred knitters on our
have about a hundred knitters on our books about forty five of them work for
books about forty five of them work for
books about forty five of them work for us regularly and right now
us regularly and right now
us regularly and right now we really don’t have that much work to
we really don’t have that much work to
we really don’t have that much work to be more than supplemental income for
be more than supplemental income for
be more than supplemental income for these women but wouldn’t it be amazing
these women but wouldn’t it be amazing
these women but wouldn’t it be amazing if making production a significant part
if making production a significant part
if making production a significant part of the cost of goods sold became a
of the cost of goods sold became a
of the cost of goods sold became a widespread business model what would
widespread business model what would
widespread business model what would that world look like it could be the
that world look like it could be the
that world look like it could be the difference in a developing nation
difference in a developing nation
difference in a developing nation between someone living below the poverty
between someone living below the poverty
between someone living below the poverty line and someone earning a living wage
line and someone earning a living wage
line and someone earning a living wage how about if we put a premium on skills
how about if we put a premium on skills
how about if we put a premium on skills and craftsmanship what if we take a
and craftsmanship what if we take a
and craftsmanship what if we take a cottage industry methods
cottage industry methods
cottage industry methods and apply it to a contemporary business
and apply it to a contemporary business
and apply it to a contemporary business we could expand opportunities for women
we could expand opportunities for women
we could expand opportunities for women who would be able to work from home
who would be able to work from home
who would be able to work from home which are just unrealistic for them
which are just unrealistic for them
which are just unrealistic for them because of the high cost of childcare
because of the high cost of childcare
because of the high cost of childcare especially in this country our model of
especially in this country our model of
especially in this country our model of local production is obviously not going
local production is obviously not going
local production is obviously not going to work for everybody but how about we
to work for everybody but how about we
to work for everybody but how about we hire local representatives or make sure
hire local representatives or make sure
hire local representatives or make sure that fair wages and not just submit
that fair wages and not just submit
that fair wages and not just submit minimum wages are paid to factory
minimum wages are paid to factory
minimum wages are paid to factory workers and we don’t have all the
workers and we don’t have all the
workers and we don’t have all the answers and I know we’re not the only
answers and I know we’re not the only
answers and I know we’re not the only company asking these questions but we
company asking these questions but we
company asking these questions but we owe it as global citizens to take a look
owe it as global citizens to take a look
owe it as global citizens to take a look at ways to make a change to make our
at ways to make a change to make our
at ways to make a change to make our industry more sustainable and to make
industry more sustainable and to make
industry more sustainable and to make sure that human suffering is not a part
sure that human suffering is not a part
sure that human suffering is not a part of the production process
maybe the sustainability of the future
maybe the sustainability of the future of fashion might require looking forward
of fashion might require looking forward
of fashion might require looking forward by looking back to how clothing was made
by looking back to how clothing was made
by looking back to how clothing was made by re-energizing traditional regional
by re-energizing traditional regional
by re-energizing traditional regional industries giving a new lease of life to
industries giving a new lease of life to
industries giving a new lease of life to factories in regions that used to be
factories in regions that used to be
factories in regions that used to be thriving to supply stable jobs for the
thriving to supply stable jobs for the
thriving to supply stable jobs for the next generation maybe it’s giving
next generation maybe it’s giving
next generation maybe it’s giving artisans in India or Africa or here in
artisans in India or Africa or here in
artisans in India or Africa or here in the u.s. new markets for their skills
the u.s. new markets for their skills
the u.s. new markets for their skills it’s giving women a chance to work from
it’s giving women a chance to work from
it’s giving women a chance to work from home or even goat herders in a remote
home or even goat herders in a remote
home or even goat herders in a remote part of the world an opportunity for a
part of the world an opportunity for a
part of the world an opportunity for a sustainable business that they can pass
sustainable business that they can pass
sustainable business that they can pass down to their families by taking all
down to their families by taking all
down to their families by taking all these elements as a company looking at
these elements as a company looking at
these elements as a company looking at people around the globe who make this
people around the globe who make this
people around the globe who make this one sweater being conscious of the
one sweater being conscious of the
one sweater being conscious of the decisions we make in materials and where
decisions we make in materials and where
decisions we make in materials and where and how we produce have repercussions
and how we produce have repercussions
and how we produce have repercussions both good and bad globally by investing
both good and bad globally by investing
both good and bad globally by investing in people teaching new skills valuing
in people teaching new skills valuing
in people teaching new skills valuing traditional skills developing a business
traditional skills developing a business
traditional skills developing a business model that values and recognizes the
model that values and recognizes the
model that values and recognizes the people who make up our supply chain by
people who make up our supply chain by
people who make up our supply chain by passing that information on to you the
passing that information on to you the
passing that information on to you the customer
customer
customer maybe that’s how we stitch the world
maybe that’s how we stitch the world
maybe that’s how we stitch the world together one sweater at a time thank you
”
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