[Music] [Applause]
before I say anything else I really just
before I say anything else I really just want to acknowledge how incredibly
want to acknowledge how incredibly
want to acknowledge how incredibly fortunate I’ve been for more than a
fortunate I’ve been for more than a
fortunate I’ve been for more than a decade I’ve had the rare privilege of
decade I’ve had the rare privilege of
decade I’ve had the rare privilege of moving through the mountains climbing
moving through the mountains climbing
moving through the mountains climbing and skiing guiding others there and I
and skiing guiding others there and I
and skiing guiding others there and I wouldn’t trade those experiences for
wouldn’t trade those experiences for
wouldn’t trade those experiences for anything there’s been sunrise and sunset
anything there’s been sunrise and sunset
anything there’s been sunrise and sunset from a sleeping bag
from a sleeping bag
from a sleeping bag bathing in an alpine lake it’s a little
bathing in an alpine lake it’s a little
bathing in an alpine lake it’s a little chilly living in a car
chilly living in a car
chilly living in a car digging camp in the rain being above the
digging camp in the rain being above the
digging camp in the rain being above the clouds feeling small in huge spaces
clouds feeling small in huge spaces
clouds feeling small in huge spaces feeling triumphant climbing rocks
feeling triumphant climbing rocks
feeling triumphant climbing rocks climbing ice climbing rock and snow
climbing with skis scheme big steep
climbing with skis scheme big steep lines stomaching sharing the camaraderie
lines stomaching sharing the camaraderie
lines stomaching sharing the camaraderie of a team that you trust my favorite
of a team that you trust my favorite
of a team that you trust my favorite part didn’t take a nap when it’s all
part didn’t take a nap when it’s all
part didn’t take a nap when it’s all over
over
over I’ll be honest I think the mountains are
I’ll be honest I think the mountains are
I’ll be honest I think the mountains are rad totally awesome and and I hope in
rad totally awesome and and I hope in
rad totally awesome and and I hope in some small way I’ve convinced you the
some small way I’ve convinced you the
some small way I’ve convinced you the same thing but the mountains aren’t
same thing but the mountains aren’t
same thing but the mountains aren’t without risk see in my line of work I
without risk see in my line of work I
without risk see in my line of work I frequently get asked how I can do things
frequently get asked how I can do things
frequently get asked how I can do things like backcountry skiing or alpine
like backcountry skiing or alpine
like backcountry skiing or alpine climbing when they’re so dangerous but I
climbing when they’re so dangerous but I
climbing when they’re so dangerous but I think the heart of that question is
think the heart of that question is
think the heart of that question is really operating in a risky environment
really operating in a risky environment
really operating in a risky environment under conditions of uncertainty but that
under conditions of uncertainty but that
under conditions of uncertainty but that describes life in general right should
describes life in general right should
describes life in general right should you start that business should you get
you start that business should you get
you start that business should you get married should you run for office well
married should you run for office well
married should you run for office well eating those chili cheese fries wreck
eating those chili cheese fries wreck
eating those chili cheese fries wreck your afternoon
we all have decisions like this to face
we all have decisions like this to face and those four decisions come up a lot
and those four decisions come up a lot
and those four decisions come up a lot from me so I’d like to explore a few
from me so I’d like to explore a few
from me so I’d like to explore a few examples see we’re at the top of the
examples see we’re at the top of the
examples see we’re at the top of the line should you drop in and ski it I
line should you drop in and ski it I
line should you drop in and ski it I mean it looks pretty rad right but
mean it looks pretty rad right but
mean it looks pretty rad right but there’s a lot to consider
there’s a lot to consider
there’s a lot to consider what’s my skiing ability how steep is
what’s my skiing ability how steep is
what’s my skiing ability how steep is the terrain
the terrain
the terrain what’s the snowpack doing how likely is
what’s the snowpack doing how likely is
what’s the snowpack doing how likely is an avalanche what’s the weather doing
an avalanche what’s the weather doing
an avalanche what’s the weather doing right and there’s probably some pretty
right and there’s probably some pretty
right and there’s probably some pretty obvious explicit physical risks that
obvious explicit physical risks that
obvious explicit physical risks that you’re thinking about in your mind tear
you’re thinking about in your mind tear
you’re thinking about in your mind tear may be things like falling hypothermia
may be things like falling hypothermia
may be things like falling hypothermia heat stroke sunburn falling off a cliff
heat stroke sunburn falling off a cliff
heat stroke sunburn falling off a cliff rocks falling off that cliff onto you
rocks falling off that cliff onto you
rocks falling off that cliff onto you the ever-present risk of violent snowy
the ever-present risk of violent snowy
the ever-present risk of violent snowy death by asphyxiation in an avalanche
death by asphyxiation in an avalanche
death by asphyxiation in an avalanche right a typical day in the office for me
right a typical day in the office for me
right a typical day in the office for me and you may be thinking that’s totally
and you may be thinking that’s totally
and you may be thinking that’s totally crazy and it has nothing to do with your
crazy and it has nothing to do with your
crazy and it has nothing to do with your life but I guarantee you it does because
life but I guarantee you it does because
life but I guarantee you it does because you take risk every day to you just
you take risk every day to you just
you take risk every day to you just might think of it not think of it that
might think of it not think of it that
might think of it not think of it that way it’s a little more implicit right if
way it’s a little more implicit right if
way it’s a little more implicit right if you live in the United States there’s a
you live in the United States there’s a
you live in the United States there’s a good chance you’ve driven in the car
good chance you’ve driven in the car
good chance you’ve driven in the car before and when you get in that car you
before and when you get in that car you
before and when you get in that car you might think I’m gonna get some groceries
might think I’m gonna get some groceries
might think I’m gonna get some groceries I’m gonna go to work but you’re not
I’m gonna go to work but you’re not
I’m gonna go to work but you’re not necessarily thinking about that you
necessarily thinking about that you
necessarily thinking about that you might die in a fiery car crash the day
might die in a fiery car crash the day
might die in a fiery car crash the day because the person in the car next see
because the person in the car next see
because the person in the car next see was texting right but we engage with
was texting right but we engage with
was texting right but we engage with risk every day all day and that’s okay
risk every day all day and that’s okay
risk every day all day and that’s okay now of course we also need to consider
now of course we also need to consider
now of course we also need to consider the bigger picture this is Ben Lomond a
the bigger picture this is Ben Lomond a
the bigger picture this is Ben Lomond a peak you might recognize being right
peak you might recognize being right
peak you might recognize being right here in Ogden Utah in fact you can see
here in Ogden Utah in fact you can see
here in Ogden Utah in fact you can see it outside and that line we’re looking
it outside and that line we’re looking
it outside and that line we’re looking at skis down the south face of this peak
at skis down the south face of this peak
at skis down the south face of this peak it ascends 4,000 vertical feet
it ascends 4,000 vertical feet
it ascends 4,000 vertical feet there’s variable snowpack there’s
there’s variable snowpack there’s
there’s variable snowpack there’s patches of ice there’s cliffs there’s
patches of ice there’s cliffs there’s
patches of ice there’s cliffs there’s trees there’s avalanches there are a lot
trees there’s avalanches there are a lot
trees there’s avalanches there are a lot of hazards to identify and to mitigate
of hazards to identify and to mitigate
of hazards to identify and to mitigate and those hazards if you don’t address
and those hazards if you don’t address
and those hazards if you don’t address them it can cost you life and limb and
them it can cost you life and limb and
them it can cost you life and limb and that can make you justifiably afraid and
that can make you justifiably afraid and
that can make you justifiably afraid and that is a good thing see fear is a
that is a good thing see fear is a
that is a good thing see fear is a useful force in these situations because
useful force in these situations because
useful force in these situations because fear is how I know right here in my gut
fear is how I know right here in my gut
fear is how I know right here in my gut and I’m about to take a risk right fear
and I’m about to take a risk right fear
and I’m about to take a risk right fear makes me ask good questions like what if
makes me ask good questions like what if
makes me ask good questions like what if the business fails what if I get injured
the business fails what if I get injured
the business fails what if I get injured right what if those chili cheese fries
right what if those chili cheese fries
right what if those chili cheese fries really do wreck my afternoon but we
really do wreck my afternoon but we
really do wreck my afternoon but we can’t be paralyzed by fear right if we
can’t be paralyzed by fear right if we
can’t be paralyzed by fear right if we were paralyzed by fear we never get
were paralyzed by fear we never get
were paralyzed by fear we never get anything done at some point if you want
anything done at some point if you want
anything done at some point if you want the reward you have to take the risk and
the reward you have to take the risk and
the reward you have to take the risk and the bigger the risk the
the bigger the risk the
the bigger the risk the the reward now when you think about risk
the reward now when you think about risk
the reward now when you think about risk you probably fall into one of two
you probably fall into one of two
you probably fall into one of two categories either you’re the type of
categories either you’re the type of
categories either you’re the type of person is like really gung-ho and
person is like really gung-ho and
person is like really gung-ho and psyched and likes to go for it and
psyched and likes to go for it and
psyched and likes to go for it and adventurous or maybe the type person
adventurous or maybe the type person
adventurous or maybe the type person who’s a little more reserved and
who’s a little more reserved and
who’s a little more reserved and cautious and careful I like to sit back
cautious and careful I like to sit back
cautious and careful I like to sit back and see how things play out
and see how things play out
and see how things play out both are perfectly valid but if you’re
both are perfectly valid but if you’re
both are perfectly valid but if you’re the type of legs to go for it and I’m
the type of legs to go for it and I’m
the type of legs to go for it and I’m right there with you you may have looser
right there with you you may have looser
right there with you you may have looser II superiority bias which means that you
II superiority bias which means that you
II superiority bias which means that you have more confidence than you have
have more confidence than you have
have more confidence than you have competence in other words you don’t know
competence in other words you don’t know
competence in other words you don’t know what you don’t know see we’re gonna go
what you don’t know see we’re gonna go
what you don’t know see we’re gonna go see this line you think you’re gonna
see this line you think you’re gonna
see this line you think you’re gonna look like this but in reality you look
look like this but in reality you look
look like this but in reality you look like this now if you’re the cautious
like this now if you’re the cautious
like this now if you’re the cautious type that comes with its own problems
type that comes with its own problems
type that comes with its own problems right because if you never take the risk
right because if you never take the risk
right because if you never take the risk in the first place you miss all the
in the first place you miss all the
in the first place you miss all the opportunities if you never take the
opportunities if you never take the
opportunities if you never take the chance how are you gonna get the rewards
chance how are you gonna get the rewards
chance how are you gonna get the rewards so I think there’s room in our lives for
so I think there’s room in our lives for
so I think there’s room in our lives for practice risk-taking in whatever it is
practice risk-taking in whatever it is
practice risk-taking in whatever it is you want to do but not just like any
you want to do but not just like any
you want to do but not just like any kind of practice we need deliberate
kind of practice we need deliberate
kind of practice we need deliberate practice until abra practice is
practice until abra practice is
practice until abra practice is different from regular practice in two
different from regular practice in two
different from regular practice in two important ways the first is that it
important ways the first is that it
important ways the first is that it intentionally pushes your limits you
intentionally pushes your limits you
intentionally pushes your limits you stretch your comfort zone every time
stretch your comfort zone every time
stretch your comfort zone every time that you practice because you have a
that you practice because you have a
that you practice because you have a specific goal that you want to reach and
specific goal that you want to reach and
specific goal that you want to reach and the second is that you need accurate
the second is that you need accurate
the second is that you need accurate feedback you need to be practicing the
feedback you need to be practicing the
feedback you need to be practicing the right things so how much practice do you
right things so how much practice do you
right things so how much practice do you need well Malcolm Gladwell published a
need well Malcolm Gladwell published a
need well Malcolm Gladwell published a book called outliers that popularize the
book called outliers that popularize the
book called outliers that popularize the notion that you need 10,000 hours of
notion that you need 10,000 hours of
notion that you need 10,000 hours of practice to become an expert there’s
practice to become an expert there’s
practice to become an expert there’s some debate about how true that is
some debate about how true that is
some debate about how true that is but I think that 10,000 hour rule is a
but I think that 10,000 hour rule is a
but I think that 10,000 hour rule is a good benchmark so if you’re doing it as
good benchmark so if you’re doing it as
good benchmark so if you’re doing it as a full-time job that should take you
a full-time job that should take you
a full-time job that should take you about five years but if it’s something
about five years but if it’s something
about five years but if it’s something unique as a hobby on the side a few
unique as a hobby on the side a few
unique as a hobby on the side a few hours a week what have you then it could
hours a week what have you then it could
hours a week what have you then it could take you 20 years or more you’re gonna
take you 20 years or more you’re gonna
take you 20 years or more you’re gonna have to be disciplined and consistent
have to be disciplined and consistent
have to be disciplined and consistent for this to work here’s an example of
for this to work here’s an example of
for this to work here’s an example of that kind of practice in the mountains
that kind of practice in the mountains
that kind of practice in the mountains right hang out this is my friend Nathan
right hang out this is my friend Nathan
right hang out this is my friend Nathan he’s sliding on a snow slope and he’s
he’s sliding on a snow slope and he’s
he’s sliding on a snow slope and he’s gonna use his ice axe to stop himself
gonna use his ice axe to stop himself
gonna use his ice axe to stop himself from going any further now we call that
from going any further now we call that
from going any further now we call that process self arresting when you first
process self arresting when you first
process self arresting when you first learned this process it’s very
learned this process it’s very
learned this process it’s very deliberate you have to think about it a
deliberate you have to think about it a
deliberate you have to think about it a lot so you guys first have to like get
lot so you guys first have to like get
lot so you guys first have to like get your body reorient it’s that you’re like
your body reorient it’s that you’re like
your body reorient it’s that you’re like belly-first on the snow and you have to
belly-first on the snow and you have to
belly-first on the snow and you have to assume it’s kind of crouched position
assume it’s kind of crouched position
assume it’s kind of crouched position like feet down but back then you got to
like feet down but back then you got to
like feet down but back then you got to put your ice axe in the right spot you
put your ice axe in the right spot you
put your ice axe in the right spot you got to leverage into and apply some
got to leverage into and apply some
got to leverage into and apply some pressure and if
pressure and if
pressure and if you got to turn your head to the side so
you got to turn your head to the side so
you got to turn your head to the side so you don’t accidentally stab yourself in
you don’t accidentally stab yourself in
you don’t accidentally stab yourself in the face all of that takes time and
the face all of that takes time and
the face all of that takes time and effort and energy and while you’re doing
effort and energy and while you’re doing
effort and energy and while you’re doing all those things you’re sliding down a
all those things you’re sliding down a
all those things you’re sliding down a snow slope right you’re picking up speed
snow slope right you’re picking up speed
snow slope right you’re picking up speed and if you pick up enough speed you
and if you pick up enough speed you
and if you pick up enough speed you don’t get a stop at all and when that
don’t get a stop at all and when that
don’t get a stop at all and when that happens you go careening down the slope
happens you go careening down the slope
happens you go careening down the slope and hit whatever is at the bottom with
and hit whatever is at the bottom with
and hit whatever is at the bottom with bone-shattering forests and because we
bone-shattering forests and because we
bone-shattering forests and because we have very fragile squishy bodies as
have very fragile squishy bodies as
have very fragile squishy bodies as people you don’t really tend to enjoy
people you don’t really tend to enjoy
people you don’t really tend to enjoy that experience now in this case
that experience now in this case
that experience now in this case Nathan will be fine there’s nothing hit
Nathan will be fine there’s nothing hit
Nathan will be fine there’s nothing hit at the bottom this however as you can
at the bottom this however as you can
at the bottom this however as you can imagine is a pretty terrible place to
imagine is a pretty terrible place to
imagine is a pretty terrible place to learn this skill right because there’s
learn this skill right because there’s
learn this skill right because there’s thousands of feet of vertical drop
thousands of feet of vertical drop
thousands of feet of vertical drop behind Josh there there’s cliffs
behind Josh there there’s cliffs
behind Josh there there’s cliffs underneath em that you can’t see in the
underneath em that you can’t see in the
underneath em that you can’t see in the photo and there’s big provisos the giant
photo and there’s big provisos the giant
photo and there’s big provisos the giant cracks in the glacier down below bad
cracks in the glacier down below bad
cracks in the glacier down below bad place to learn before you get to this
place to learn before you get to this
place to learn before you get to this place you need to have this skill
place you need to have this skill
place you need to have this skill totally dialed super practiced so back
totally dialed super practiced so back
totally dialed super practiced so back to Nathan as he slides down and climbs
to Nathan as he slides down and climbs
to Nathan as he slides down and climbs back up over time this school become
back up over time this school become
back up over time this school become automatic he won’t have to think about
automatic he won’t have to think about
automatic he won’t have to think about it
it
it he’ll just boom self-arrest he stops he
he’ll just boom self-arrest he stops he
he’ll just boom self-arrest he stops he can keep on climbing
can keep on climbing
can keep on climbing of course we practiced the skill we need
of course we practiced the skill we need
of course we practiced the skill we need to make sure they were practicing the
to make sure they were practicing the
to make sure they were practicing the right things right practice them do us
right things right practice them do us
right things right practice them do us any good we’ve practiced the wrong
any good we’ve practiced the wrong
any good we’ve practiced the wrong things to achieve that we need feedback
things to achieve that we need feedback
things to achieve that we need feedback and we get feedback from kind learning
and we get feedback from kind learning
and we get feedback from kind learning environments like whitewater kayaking
environments like whitewater kayaking
environments like whitewater kayaking now when you screw up whitewater
now when you screw up whitewater
now when you screw up whitewater kayaking you learn that you’ve done so
kayaking you learn that you’ve done so
kayaking you learn that you’ve done so in ways that are cold and wet and dark
in ways that are cold and wet and dark
in ways that are cold and wet and dark and loud and violent and kind of scary
and loud and violent and kind of scary
and loud and violent and kind of scary and surprisingly absent of the oxygen
and surprisingly absent of the oxygen
and surprisingly absent of the oxygen that you’re so accustomed to breathing
that you’re so accustomed to breathing
that you’re so accustomed to breathing and that provides clear and immediate
and that provides clear and immediate
and that provides clear and immediate feedback that you messed up and you
feedback that you messed up and you
feedback that you messed up and you should probably do something different
should probably do something different
should probably do something different next time back and you’re skiing on the
next time back and you’re skiing on the
next time back and you’re skiing on the other hand it’s a little more devious
other hand it’s a little more devious
other hand it’s a little more devious right these angular snow crystals here
right these angular snow crystals here
right these angular snow crystals here they indicate that the slope could
they indicate that the slope could
they indicate that the slope could avalanche but just because those snow
avalanche but just because those snow
avalanche but just because those snow crystals are present in the snowpack
crystals are present in the snowpack
crystals are present in the snowpack doesn’t mean that it will avalanche and
doesn’t mean that it will avalanche and
doesn’t mean that it will avalanche and you can see where that’s tricky
you can see where that’s tricky
you can see where that’s tricky see because you could ski escape dozens
see because you could ski escape dozens
see because you could ski escape dozens of times thinking you done everything
of times thinking you done everything
of times thinking you done everything right but actually had a series of close
right but actually had a series of close
right but actually had a series of close calls and you don’t learn that until it
calls and you don’t learn that until it
calls and you don’t learn that until it finally avalanches and if you haven’t
finally avalanches and if you haven’t
finally avalanches and if you haven’t learned the lesson yet you’re likely in
learned the lesson yet you’re likely in
learned the lesson yet you’re likely in that avalanche the price for this lesson
that avalanche the price for this lesson
that avalanche the price for this lesson might be your life that’s really harsh
might be your life that’s really harsh
might be your life that’s really harsh and in those cases experiential
and in those cases experiential
and in those cases experiential education is not the way to go we need
education is not the way to go we need
education is not the way to go we need to get feedback into other ways we talk
to get feedback into other ways we talk
to get feedback into other ways we talk to experts in the field we review the
to experts in the field we review the
to experts in the field we review the data we analyze accident
data we analyze accident
data we analyze accident and we get feedback from our partners I
and we get feedback from our partners I
and we get feedback from our partners I was climbing this line recently up the
was climbing this line recently up the
was climbing this line recently up the rock and you step off the overhanging
rock and you step off the overhanging
rock and you step off the overhanging rock under the suspended dagger of ice
rock under the suspended dagger of ice
rock under the suspended dagger of ice and that move from the rocks to the ice
and that move from the rocks to the ice
and that move from the rocks to the ice that can be kind of tricky so I called
that can be kind of tricky so I called
that can be kind of tricky so I called onto my partner Hema climbing ice for 18
onto my partner Hema climbing ice for 18
onto my partner Hema climbing ice for 18 years I was like hey what are your
years I was like hey what are your
years I was like hey what are your thoughts it’s like I got nothing man
thoughts it’s like I got nothing man
thoughts it’s like I got nothing man you’re on your own
you’re on your own
you’re on your own I’ve only ever seen people do stuff like
I’ve only ever seen people do stuff like
I’ve only ever seen people do stuff like that in pictures but it looks rad 18
that in pictures but it looks rad 18
that in pictures but it looks rad 18 years right experience is not the same
years right experience is not the same
years right experience is not the same thing as expertise I’d also be remiss if
thing as expertise I’d also be remiss if
thing as expertise I’d also be remiss if I fail to mention the rule of luck and
I fail to mention the rule of luck and
I fail to mention the rule of luck and all this the fact I’m giving this talk
all this the fact I’m giving this talk
all this the fact I’m giving this talk is evidence of survivorship bias you’re
is evidence of survivorship bias you’re
is evidence of survivorship bias you’re not hearing these words from the people
not hearing these words from the people
not hearing these words from the people who got hurt or quit or went broke or
who got hurt or quit or went broke or
who got hurt or quit or went broke or died while they were climbing or skiing
died while they were climbing or skiing
died while they were climbing or skiing or mountain guiding right
or mountain guiding right
or mountain guiding right those things are risky there’s an
those things are risky there’s an
those things are risky there’s an irreducible amount of uncertainty
irreducible amount of uncertainty
irreducible amount of uncertainty inherent in mountain travel as there is
inherent in mountain travel as there is
inherent in mountain travel as there is in all of life we have to accept that
in all of life we have to accept that
in all of life we have to accept that right sometimes you do everything right
right sometimes you do everything right
right sometimes you do everything right and the outcome is still poor because
and the outcome is still poor because
and the outcome is still poor because there’s risk involved see I topped out
there’s risk involved see I topped out
there’s risk involved see I topped out this climb and then I caught a big chunk
this climb and then I caught a big chunk
this climb and then I caught a big chunk of ice with my face now if I screwed up
of ice with my face now if I screwed up
of ice with my face now if I screwed up my face deserves to look like that and I
my face deserves to look like that and I
my face deserves to look like that and I need to accept those consequences right
need to accept those consequences right
need to accept those consequences right I need to humbly learn the lessons
I need to humbly learn the lessons
I need to humbly learn the lessons involved but find everything right and
involved but find everything right and
involved but find everything right and my face still looks like that
my face still looks like that
my face still looks like that well that’s what it means take risks
well that’s what it means take risks
well that’s what it means take risks sometimes you lose and you have to be
sometimes you lose and you have to be
sometimes you lose and you have to be okay with that
okay with that
okay with that so do you drop in what are the
so do you drop in what are the
so do you drop in what are the consequences how likely are they have
consequences how likely are they have
consequences how likely are they have you put in the practice do you have the
you put in the practice do you have the
you put in the practice do you have the skills what are the rewards
skills what are the rewards
skills what are the rewards only you know the answers those
only you know the answers those
only you know the answers those questions but at the end a it’s really
questions but at the end a it’s really
questions but at the end a it’s really really straightforward without risk
really straightforward without risk
really straightforward without risk there is no reward but in this case the
there is no reward but in this case the
there is no reward but in this case the rewards were totally sweet thank you
rewards were totally sweet thank you
rewards were totally sweet thank you [Applause]
[Applause]
[Applause] [Music]
”
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