I’ll start by asking three questions.
about the clothes you’re wearing
using today
if you know who made this outfit like
it was done right and under what conditions and
Where was the laundry done ?
that what I’m doing is every time
more difficult to answer and I
I do not know the origin of the
my clothes, right?
but what I’m going to say here for sure
to relate all these issues
have to do with my
the lack of answers and the perception
that they are part of the
My life, I’m a teacher. I’m defeated.
consumer
I’m a curious reader and I’m a
a seamstress who worked at home and
went to work in the industry then
My idea then is through
examples and using problems in the
current fashion system is to show how I
I notice fashion nowadays I see fashion
as a self-destruct system
huh
let’s think what mode it means
change is as if fashion did not change
Nothing else is as if the changes that the
fashion proposes nowadays that they are
Empty we do not take each other
place
and all this would then be a reflection of
system that has reached its
ephemeral ability to generate new
currently it is almost impossible for people
to keep up with news in terms
of information or consumption to people
Can not handle it so I’ll go
begin with some considerations to
respect the purpose to think the
fashion exhaustion while a
promoter of news
propose an alternative to look at
in another sense for the existence of
fashion
when we look at clothes clothing sticker
She usually tells us where she went.
but she does not know under what conditions
it tells us the origin of the raw material
Ink Acids Fabric
currently all this process
they go beyond national barriers
fashion has changed a lot over time
is like a system that allows the
social and economic existence of
modalities of production of clothing
suffered with the revolutions with the
wars the clothing that was made at home or
in neighborhood dressmakers or tailors
is gradually being made in
industrial scale and the forms of
improve the machinery
is being developed for each stage
the ready-made clothes and
standardized, then they become more
common and cheaper for us
buy my mother worked at home
until the 90’s then she can
working in industries that
outsourced apart the step of
seam
What I realize now is that the
people do not participate more
building our clothes, we do not
You know, we do not choose a fabric anymore.
we do not fit most models
magazines or another piece that the
People like us, we do not do it anymore.
reforms
It’s much easier to buy another one.
Piece and discard that ne
so we do not know who made the
our clothes and I remember that customers
of my mother did not know
so we have a lot more clothes to
people buy more people use for less
time clothes are not usually
made to last in the material sense and
symbolic as well as the seamstresses who
they did all that cutting stage
sewing and modeling
gradually they are being replaced
by sewing machine operators
who spends the whole day doing the same
step in the same movement in some
under subhuman conditions .
then all the changes both in the
way of doing how much in the form of
buy in order to know about
fashion it supports the fashion model that
it is ephemeral and normative it
normalized what he is going to say when
use how to use
How do you combine these pieces?
it will determine what it is like
period of validity of this
use it will tell us even that who
It’s time to use this body.
piece and it is also ephemeral
because it will reverse everything that is
passenger who has a time of
very short duration and this is one of the
the most important characteristics of the
fashion is called the empire of the
ephemeral and a characteristic will
always promote novelty whenever a
new and faster and
interruptamente’ll explain in a
other way this normalizing effect is
ephemeral
we could say that the first
image would be the multiplicity of styles
patterns that we have
circulating nowadays all of them
coexisting and the second image would be
say the attempt to fashion
normalize this to linearly ne
within a time to determine the time of
validity of this use and will always propose
this replacement will either be one or
your other
only the life cycle the fashion it
not the same as clothing is the cycle of
life clothes is much longer
it begins long before our purchase and
ends much later our disposal and
It seems very obvious, we think about it.
but the clothes she has had before with during
and the after
and it’s not the same fashion as that, I do not understand
then that in a certain way the ephemerality
she became detrimental to fashion
socially and environmentally and from the
creative vision also the change that
fashion sells as novelty it is empty
she is often monotonous
if we are to observe
I put some pictures of pants
from different times and could
be another piece of clothing, huh?
we can see that the pants
a long time we can
differences in the shapes in the
inclusion of details in the
properties of the tissues that have changed
colors in the format of it but the people
You can also look at all this
diversity of thing does have
that a piece of pants that is
today sold as a novelty in reality
it is also an aggregate of parts
details functions of times and places
which have been combined from one
way and sometimes gives another name and
call it a novelty, huh?
only occurred the cycles of
validation of this fashion that this process
he kind of ran out
is the amount of information that the
We have the technology that we have and
to speed with all this with which everything
this happens fashion can do
reference at any time
the creation to it can have is very
difficult today I determine the origin of
single creation or remit
stylist there is only one
point of view, we can say that
practically everything has already been created in fashion
the example of an example that could
this fashion feedback in the
how fast it feeds is
the model to produce fast clothes
fashion ne
here is the purchase data will manage
the new productions not what is more
sold will be more produced in less
20 days you will have a very
similar in the street in the store to buy the
its exposure is not of several
different prices depending on the place with
a master’s degree research
I realized that the copy does it
part of the process of developing
fashion and there is a very negative charge
in this cup not everyone will assume is
this copy but she is one is a
constant development of fashion and
I’m not here thinking this is right
only proving that it is part of the
fashion system on the part of the
fashion development, and what I
I call it a copy that is a product or
a disseminated detail in the form of
trend is not plagiarism
so even if there is such a charge
negative the market he believes
in this ephemeral system of generating
he believes in this form of
create fashion up as one as a way
not take risks and in this type of
industry the good stylist is one who
produces what sells faster and which
comes from my colleagues who work in the
industry they even complain that
them is just a
technical drawing while fulfilling a
cost sheet of a model that
saw on the internet of a blogger by
example only that however this model
is ephemeral of adaptations of the same
even allows us to use
clothes very similar to the
walkers of the bloggers for a price
too low we can find
he uses a term also
problem is the democratization of
fashion
and it shows a very superficial view
and romanticized this fashion because he
supports the idea that there is a
participation is not a consensus
say a popular sovereignty a
choose not
only who participates in fashion who
buying and producing and who does
also participates in this democracy
we will observe the data of
how much it costs to produce a
jeans shirt in the united states in
Bangladesh and draws attention to the
The last fact is that the cost of
we will realize that a lot of
difference where I teach for example is
This data is not from Brazil but he
It serves to think the Brazil because here
Labor often plays as a face
where he taught, for example, people
technical and in textiles and fashion and the
We’ve heard from some businessmen
that we are very cacique for
little Indian because because our
students
We do not feel like it.
Sample occupy an operator seat
sewing machine
but I wonder what they value
appreciation receives this profession
for the student leaving a course
technician wanted to occupy there, right?
enter that profession will they want
keep the fast fashion data
that is 1-2 percent of the value of
a piece goes to who produced it
then in this system the very low cost
production is only possible in
countries where the minimum wage is
well below the minimum conditions
for survival then people
they work from 12 to 14 hours a day from 7
6 to 7 days a week to account
to survive and there’s no room left for
education for leisure and even to educate
the children themselves
in this ephemeral system where there is
salary is practically
unfeasible to produce nelton fast phallus
fashion
So we need to be suspicious of the
working conditions behind
very cheap clothes often
people are proud to buy a clothes
very cheap we should distrust
And just do not think that there is
exploitation of labor
only in cheap clothes, not too
there are expensive clothes
we still need to inform and
ask these questions that were asked
in the beginning the knowledge of the damages is
that I believe it will make us
overcoming this will overcome let’s
this logic that led to the
fashion has become even the second
the world’s most polluting industry is
that it is necessary to give visibility and
offenses that take us out of the
comfort is not important then
to present the problems because
they will hardly become
news in fashion magazines in
then try to name is a path
possible to look at fashion is and of god
from there we do not start from
idea of ephemerality I bring a
concept that I use from 2014
in my research , and they have a one
profile a little philosophical say
so looking at fashion is the name
used is that it is no longer
important is not resistance is not
the most important thing is just a game of
words but it is the
Understanding him that moves me
especially as a teacher as
researcher and I would like to move
if you too, right?
assistance at first hand sells
of the sound that is produced then
I come from resistance to resist and
exists in fashion is very difficult because
fashion all split these shapes right
it is not enough here to oppose the
fashion rules are much better people
destabilize exposing the problems of
fashion and use your own fashion and clothing
for this then resistance is this
first sound president to resist
own existence of the problems of
fashion will already be configured as a
reason for a change of look is
all of us who participate directly
fashion because we all wear clothes at
people can find escape lines that
create another place
another space to occupy the fashion
our life so that there would be
to note what kind of existence fashion
have in our life today
exploiting people degrading the environment
environment and produce a kind of
even do not
then resistance would be what gives
another form of existence for the
fashion in our gym life in design
use and consumption in the form of the rule
she
The good news is that some people
You ‘re already noticing this, and these
Firm actions arise in the form of
documentary campaigns
awareness products advertisements
different actions of entrepreneurs and
consumers
the fashion revolution is an example of this
is an awareness campaign that
then invites everyone to think of
question who can produce
our clothes are not by tags one
date not the sub-theme and puts you
then as an active voice to think
then this democratization of the fashion of
practice is and citing only one
possibilities for a
fashion and using the end of the cycle to
people can stabilize themselves
brief life of a fashion product
using the end of the cycle for the
creation of new clothes showing the
creative and economical viability of
to produce from the end of the cycle is
I brought the example of the school where
I work, right?
here the idea is to prolong life
of things, and means their use and
creativity then that awakened
therefore exists as a catalyst for
new ideas
the office is another one another
example, which also uses the
end of the cycle but not with the intention
to create a new product
it is a donation initiative of
clothes that anyone can do in their
city is it allows the choice that
not everyone can make clothes that
People use it very much if it ‘s for us.
It seems very simple that we choose
What are we going to use right?
but this type of action makes it possible
that instead of receiving a bag of
adult female clothes eg
I can choose the type of clothes that I
I’ll use right and that every year instead of
I give this person to
opportunity to choose what kind of
clothes she will wear it looks very
simple but just reconfigure the way
Doha clothes it changes the direction
social choice of participation and
even citizenship, right?
The important thing is to think that there are others
ways to clothes that we do not have
more will this presentation
I remembered this photo and that clothes that
used and my brother is going to kill because
he used client
this time but this outfit is a
example of the type of clothes
when I was a child it was an era made
a lot of flap irritate with flaps
of my mother’s clients
only that this was not a limitation I
I did not think my clothes were ugly
they were I liked that we
helped to create even nee and what the
Profile irony of fate that I
I realize is different from today than the
I wear standard clothes bought in a store
two have the same look my clothes were
unique from the creative point of view and
is different from today.
resistance is to survive in the
Time, right?
the examples I brought here are
just some of the fashionable
resist
only we will create others there
other forms of resistance based on
our awareness of the damages that fashion
there is a lot of data to display
that fashion needs to change right the
empty changes that ephemerality brings
for fashion they remain for the excess and
the necessary changes are those
who are going to stay that will survive in
form of a shared sense is
important it is very important to remember
that sustainability for fashion is not
can be seen as a trend
with a momentary thing is a
issue of survival for both
we how much in fashion, and what we
does the laundry is that will determine the
sense that fashion has to find and
In this sense we are doing
politics with fashion is this
thank you so much
[Applause]
”
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