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Digital fashion | Sara Savian | TEDxNovaraSalon


good morning everyone I wanted

start by asking yourself if any of you

they contend a crafter did not do manga

maybe ok

good this is my grandma Elena is a

his home

I met met for the first time

time a black sewing machine but

he was a real crafter knit

he cooked excellent desserts of course

sew is the episode that aims to surface

in the mind of that time it was the

years in the early 90s I will have had 5 6

years and she was sewing this dress

from princess to my cousin and I loris

I really wanted to learn how to baz iata

sew but I was too small then

I could not elaborate, let’s say it is

once it is now I was old

right to learn she was gone

ori approached the sewing machine

in 2005 when I moved to

Milan to study fashion design at

polytechnic

but the real spark is popped into the

2009 when I moved to Vienna

for six months and I studied

at the university of applied arts

there every student could build one

ad hoc study plan for the project

that he had to carry on and could

access all the laboratories

of the metallurgy university

carpentry tailoring silk-screen printing

any open lab is that

It was just my first fab lab

once back in Milan he tried to

carry on this passion of I am

entered a little in the area

self-production of ethical fashion

open VAT number

I started to collaborate with different

atelier and in particular I like it

telling about the social cooperative

alice that has been working for over twenty years

in the female sections of the prisons of

Milan with tailoring workshops

I entered with them and I did

training and out and cooperated with the

stylist the realization of some

collections

some even already have interventions

let’s say a little bit of a maker we comb there but

in 2014

I started my collaboration at

maker space that we make necro space of

milano while he wrote fab lab are gods

spaces but also of the communities are gods

places where the machines are controlled

numeric as laser paper 3d printers

they come into contact with creativity

people are in fact people

the heart of these spaces they bring

knowledge and knowledge to share them

or the fuel a fuel that

allows the production of projects

really special

the real maker revolution was

to make the technologies

democratic we say that with

the inclusion

with the development and release above all

of open source projects was

possible digital fabrication with

digital fabrication we mean the fact

to have the technologies that come

used by people but not in

single way so not with the truth

purchase a 3d printer but

used by the community and in the

community there is a continuous exchange of

knowledge and knowledge then the

car does not stop only to do his

duty but can create new machines

as in this case this is a

project of barbarism mar

it is a circular knitting machine

completely self-produced and made

from the community of lakers face with

3d laser cutting machines and

arduino from the digital fabrication anti

cheat the fashion really step

short with claudia shoe

we have achieved one of the first

research in the textile sector developed

right inside a maker space e

we tried to make sense is the

which seemed to us more interesting

to do was to create a training module

then make or for the method that

we discovered and share it with the

others

the digital fashion training module

provides a non-academic approach

this thing means that in the moment in

which we go to teach software not

there is a mere frontal learning but

everyone is invited to work together

they learn how to use these

software are then we will get there in full

style peer education then education

among peers larkin by doing is another

technique

and we recover from the world of makers

we define what it means to learn by doing

the students once took them

technologies are put to the test and

they begin to discover by doing so

making the first prototypes the

operation of the machines if i

materials respond well

in short, learning by doing also means

make mistakes

so we set ourselves on learning

through the error the error is not bad

but it is a moment of growth a moment

of growth in order to improve the

own project and then tell it to

term understand if what we are

doing and will actually lead to

what we hoped for

in short, to the final product

the home software because we use

are two and are in skype inkscape is a

vector drawing software

great with really special plugins

for laser cut to a lot community

we have heard about it developed

first then the communities are

fundamental to these software for that

they allow continuous improvement

is an insertion of new and plugins

valentina project

valentina is the first open source case

for the design of the card templates

fashion one draws in fashion

parametric then using the

mathematical formulas and ge the very thing

important that runs on many

operating systems

here is an important thing to say in

merit valentina and that has also

this year very strong community then

when we tell it all

we always say to our students that

they must start collaborating with the

community collaborate with the community

it means first testing software

and understand if there are any bugs and in this

case communicate them to the programmers o

however to the community in general

also to other users it also means

translate it into various languages

they know through a platform

online also means creating gods

tutorials in such a way that other users

are able to learn how to use it

the important thing is that valentina does not

it is oriented to the final user but

community oriented

so it will not be a software suitable for

a company but certainly suitable for

different professions

taking a step back we have

presented digital division in 2015

at the rom maker faire and it was

counted 310 best projects from

start up italy and from there we have

started doing our experiments

we started as a form

basic training of 10 hours where i

students start working with skype

and to elaborate their prototypes with the

laser

the interesting thing in this friend

precisely and that in such a few hours

female students who come from different

scopes we say manage to achieve one

boss who then take home and can

wear or fake with the

different technologies that we

we have the meter space we have

then developed another form of training

pro information that lasts a lot more

in fact 90

allows to deepen the use of

two software inscape and valentina in

parallel in the realization of the

models ee provides a little development

different because the number of people

that participate in it and therefore greater is

possible to work on lippi but before

this we do a small session of

design thinking to get to one

division into own groups and each

group works on an ib concept

working on concepts is very important

because it allows then every single group

to do a market research understand

what are the best models for

carry forward the project and

so the very important thing too

that working in a group takes place one

exchange of knowledge between the different

people participating in the course these

are some examples of the items made

from the girls of the course

we have simple models with

obviously of the graphic elaborations

we had a group that really has

developed a lot on the part about

software inventing a series of garments

on 3d processing then passing from

kirigami to a snail created with for

fear then the thing really

interesting that every group has had

has had its own focus could

develop various themes also in

based on previous ones

previous information anyway

laurent professions I worked on gods

dresses that did not include seams

example therefore with interlocking holes a

I work with ropes and they have

worked on green ii of then knitted

pierce the fabric different types of

fabric to recreate some of the gods

images of this type then recreate

the world of knitting a thing that

I wanted to say with respect to these modules e

that anyone can learn to create gods

clothing of this type not

only stylists and fashion designers

in fact the real strength of this form e

that we had inside the gods

professionals that we come from the most

different worlds from building engineering

all the marketing expert from there

it was really an exchange of

knowledge and all have learned

really use these software

despite the diversity of the fields from

where they arrived they joined a group and

they managed to create a system of

own money to create pieces that

otherwise by individuals they would not have

could do though is that often not

we work only on textiles on

we have another research one

research is called digitally and one

of the only research in the field

digital knitwear of Italian fab labs

the claudia shoe was brought to us

It is developed with the strength of the

community of citizens and be a module

training that a search for the note

claudio scarpa is formed at the school of

very famous educator and designers

Italian minimalist that buzzes and one

graphics and the interesting thing is that it has

brought his dimensional research

in the world of knitwear e

of the meeting in general but the thing

really interesting and the

collaboration that he had with a

programmer and an expert

electronic inside the maker space

with them they managed to do the

king of a knitting machine

electronics

this allowed claudia to be able to

make garments from models

open so she could make some

totally new designs I do not know if you have

present the old machines from

knitwear provide really patterns

sad a little 80 instead of thanks to

this pitino this can actually

it’s a choice is called aiab or liars

beautiful

and it is indeed a developed component

for German programmers who

applied to a minus 1 allows via

a python software of

a claudia to make some patterns

via chimp which is software for

photo editing where the pixel is a

essentially, it is precisely that point

make them with a car from

knitwear

well this result the thing really

interesting in my opinion and that thanks

at the king of this car was

possible to claudia make a series

of backpacks these that are truly a

product made and finished is no longer a

prototype so we do not talk about it anymore

prototypes to talk about product made and

finished with an open source technology

ok what we expect from the future well

surely both roads are alone

at the beginning of a journey that we

we want to carry on the idea is that

to continue to feed one

community a community is offline

so for the co design for the practices

sharing their own practices

that online

so for share and practices

to share

through the internet the projects that

they are made both inside the

our courses that simply with the

method that we teach or anyway that

we propose the thing really

interesting in addition to the

sharing the idea of ​​having one

community and so on and that the fact of

bring technology and within

of fashion also allows women to

approach technology often for

one reason or another for women

they remain a moment outside of everyone

these are called technological fields

maybe they are closer to other realities

on the other hand, digital fashion is still there

want to get closer to the alle

technologies but not just for fashion

this is a front door let’s say

to be able to give back the grit to who has it

lost maybe to start over with a

work

in short, I lost but now comes the

funny part

the beautiful thing of a community is

that a bit like a family

the family lives of crisis relationships of di

value and this value is given by

trust my community is that of

maker and the values ​​we only have

those of sharing the exchange

of knowledge this exchange of knowledge is a

po say what fills the step

the gap that existed between mine

generation and for example mine

grandmother

so all that TV

the craftsmanship to know how to do is gone

lost due to a lack of connection between

generations is filled by the makers

let’s say the most interesting thing

surely it is that what the maker

they created the community through the community

community spaces is not just one

mere to do but it’s a moment of

sharing that does not end there but goes

over

therefore it opens the way to new methods e

work practices

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