[Music]
Now
[Music]
this is my name is federica
mingolla and I am 23 years old I was born and
my passion lived in Turin
probably climb what I know
do better
obviously I’ll call a lot of other things
like being with my friends
boyfriend practicing other sports like the
ride in the mountains or
simply play the guitar
but for me to find myself on a high wall
1000 meters of technical gray limestone e
compact and the maximum there are moments
that are now part of me like when
I climbed the way through the fish
on the marmolada the queen of the dolomites
a way that no other woman before
me had faced the free and from the beginning
roped a beautiful way and his
characteristic is that it passes right
through this niche form of fish
embedded in the center of the wall of the
marmolada and its difficulty and also
it does in fact because of the fact that one
very difficult mountaineering route or
I remember when I climbed in some
phases in Greece with the setting sun
it goes and the sea below and the hot rock that
it transmitted strength and energy or even
when I climbed on the falls of
ice that are very delicate walls
and those you have are treacherous and changing
just seen
they are just some of the images of the
mountains that I climbed in the Alps
especially where I live but also in
pakistan where nature is so beautiful and
majestic that leaves you breathless
this for example is called tom and jerry
scrutate is called rita at crack e
it is a spectacular way because it is
located on this granite pillar
red called the grand gendarme
which is one of the most beautiful monoliths at
world and is located almost 4,000 meters
quote
there is everything in the background
massif of the white mountain for
add the attack of this way is
necessary to go on skis and
I was two or three to acclimatize
days at height
I found it very difficult to pass the
passage more difficult than this
this way that is located between the third
fourth spit
and after flying for more than 60
times on the same movement
I never thought about giving up, I did
continued to try and alone are
managed to understand how to get to the top
at the digital crack pillar
after a few days in good weather
I came back with a few but trustworthy
comrades and I managed to get in
top decides to crack in free then
without the aid of artificial tools
but only with the strength of my arms e
of my hands and it was happiness
more perfect these instead is called
tom and jerry e and it’s a line
incredibly clean in this case
you do not go up, but it goes down in fact this
via is located on the left bank of the
verdon gorge which is a canyon more
impressive of europe it is one
25 km long cliff is more than 350 high
meters and to get to the attack of
this itinerary is necessary
descend with a fixed rope and then
take to climb to get to the top
to the terrace of the tom and gerri and tom e
jerry makes the verse to a cartoon
Tom and Jerry, in fact, who had opened it
in 2004 he had dedicated it to his son of 4
years when I had heard of
this way I had immediately understood that
I had to be able to follow it
and it was like that in 2014 before
Italian to tackle it on a line of
this length 60 meters a single pitch
so very very long and possible that
in the muscles indeed it is sure that in
muscles form lactic acid us
we call cast iron we say that we are
alerted and this gives us lactic
it prevents you from moving, you feel
completely stuck at this point
it’s not a thing to do not to fall off
stop for a moment to shake a pro
breath control arms
focus on what you’re doing
and start again
always keeping the mind focused
and while I was saliva I tried to anticipate
with my mind the movements I would have done
and after a slightly opaque start I am
managed to find the right rhythm
a party for my senses and not
I could stop moving on with
the perfect rock so I earned
meter by meter using small ones
with creations on the rock that yes
materialized in the moment when the
I was looking for and I managed after a
full turn of clock to regrow
on top of the tom fullback and yesterday with a
smile that you could count me
teeth in the mouth
so my desire to explore was born
watch over the world and buy in 2017
they left for Pakistan
my first extra-european expedition in
company of some friends of spiders
lecco who are a very famous group
alpinistic in the Lecco area and we went
in it will lead you that it was a valley is
a valley that has been forbidden to
foreigners for more than thirty years
we were the first to arrive there with the
permission to scale c
pity that the rock is sandy and dirty
so we have to give up on ours
project to open a line in that
valley but we decide to move into the
near akiris valley where instead
we find our our online
route to climb is a street of 750
meters that we call good no good
because of this characteristic of
alternate very beautiful and aesthetic shots and
clean instead attract a little more grassy and
dirty trusted act risks and explore
this is the way I live if I think back to
me as a little girl sees a person a lot
different from what I am now not
I would have thought that my life
it would have been made of large spaces and
extreme environments
he was a very active person I liked
move very much
I always have to do something in the mountains there
I went for the first time with i
my parents and they were taking me to
take long walks in the mountains
and still I was not walking in fact
I remember I was in the baby carrier on my chest
so my mom is walking for
the woods passing through the pastures and the
malghe where we often stopped to do one
snack I had
two sisters and I can do all of them with them
my childhood and being that we are
peers and so we were already forming a beautiful
small group we managed to
share this experience on
I’m always growing mountains
passionate about sports in particular
swimming for which I trained without
spare me every week then
at the age of 14
it happens that I know a boy this
boy was a climber and starts to
like me so he started to attend the
his climbing gym starts at
attend his climbing course
and there the coaches realize
that there is something instinctive in mine
way of moving and then beginning of
engage in training a
participate in my first races
at the age of 19 he manages to conquer
the title of Italian vice champion
of difficulty and some titles in the cup
in the Italian cup and then in the European cup and ea
participate in my first cup competitions
of the world for a big darling these
levels you need a lot of training
training obviously but also one
granite constancy so much determination
a long time I remember mine
I spent the days between the panel
climbing and dry exercises at
beam with weights for three hours a day
everyday
and it was then that at the age of 18
about I started losing a lot of weight and
I did not realize how much this
situation was serious and dangerous for
my health because I saw that too
the other girls who competed with me
they suffered the same situation from me then
I was happy when I won but it remained me
something inside something outstanding that
I could not understand and this me
it was very troubling
then one day four years ago I come
involved in an outdoor experience by a
well-known technical clothing brand
with whom I collaborated and liri and discovered
climbing in a context
completely different than usual
and I know them my teacher
my mentor this person has me
always inspired in my projects has me
allowed to realize them thanks to his
determination and motivation
this normally mountain environment
virgin rock a playground from
invent we were there to open
new lines and I discover them a new way of
move on the rock with a more style
clean of that of climbing
sports this style is called
climbing trad
traditional climbing the difficulty
out of sight is not just about climbing
on a certain line but also in the
protect yourself on the rock and thanks to
adriano trombetta alpine guide are
succeeded in the moral re – entry of the gesture
then the valleys were climbed
of lanzo the value of an ice in
particular that saw me grow up and
to mature pass from a vision more
sporting at a mountaineering
of climbing the gestures I had
learned in the gym that I had acquired
in the indoor gym finally
they could expand were no longer fine
and themselves but I could use them like
way of living the rock
this thanks to adriano now mine
life is much richer
It is not certain that I can not anymore
resist the call of a wall
aesthetically perfect however I like it
live the mountain 360 degrees in all of its
form
so not just rock climbing
but also that on ice the snow
then ski the course in the mountains
in short, all this is what I do
It makes me alive and makes me happy
in the meantime I thought about my future
work I see in the mountains in the
figure of an alpine guide and I try to finish
to finish his studies at the faculty of
motor sciences of Turin to which
I’m registered and I try not to do
to abstract too much from traveling
on my van and leave in company
with some friends remembered to go up
some top in the world even if the
temptation is very strong
climb my way to get to know me
itself
it’s also a way to get mine out of me
determination and understand what are the
my limits challenge my courage
understand what my fears are and one
Once you have found it, try to
overcome
on the one hand there are big companies
the large walls overhanging slopes
steep and slippery adrenaline to
stars
on the other there is me with my fears i
my dreams
my determination from the arms
strong and my immense desire to dance
on the rock
in the middle of all this there is my way
to live my way of thinking outside
from the road marked out by the rules
out of predestined careers
out of the reasonings made just for
get something in return out of the
security and salary month end but
it is a way of life in which what
it is the change of seasons
the changing of the world in which the rhythms of the
life are not dictated by needs of
career but simply from the cycle
of the universe in which there are skies
boundless and horizons without end and not
concrete walls
thank you
[Applause]
”
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