I grew up surrounded by people who looked like me after living in the
looked like me after living in the
looked like me after living in the United States for 11 years
United States for 11 years
United States for 11 years I feel like had I grown up here with my
I feel like had I grown up here with my
I feel like had I grown up here with my hair texture and my skin color I might
hair texture and my skin color I might
hair texture and my skin color I might not have survived adolescence with my
not have survived adolescence with my
not have survived adolescence with my self-esteem intact when all you see is
self-esteem intact when all you see is
self-esteem intact when all you see is negative representation of yourself you
negative representation of yourself you
negative representation of yourself you start to believe that’s your Worth and
start to believe that’s your Worth and
start to believe that’s your Worth and when you don’t see yourself represented
when you don’t see yourself represented
when you don’t see yourself represented at all you start to doubt whether you
at all you start to doubt whether you
at all you start to doubt whether you deserve to exist in certain spaces to
deserve to exist in certain spaces to
deserve to exist in certain spaces to freely take up space and defend your
freely take up space and defend your
freely take up space and defend your right to do so it’s not news that our
right to do so it’s not news that our
right to do so it’s not news that our media glorifies whiteness is a beauty
media glorifies whiteness is a beauty
media glorifies whiteness is a beauty standard earlier this month
standard earlier this month
standard earlier this month Cosmo published an article citing these
Cosmo published an article citing these
Cosmo published an article citing these 10 as the most beautiful women in the
10 as the most beautiful women in the
10 as the most beautiful women in the world according to science this isn’t
world according to science this isn’t
world according to science this isn’t even one of the more insulting examples
even one of the more insulting examples
even one of the more insulting examples it’s just one of the most recent and as
it’s just one of the most recent and as
it’s just one of the most recent and as someone who directs photoshoots and
someone who directs photoshoots and
someone who directs photoshoots and creates photos stories for the fashion
creates photos stories for the fashion
creates photos stories for the fashion magazine that I publish I can assure you
magazine that I publish I can assure you
magazine that I publish I can assure you these incidents aren’t accidents from
these incidents aren’t accidents from
these incidents aren’t accidents from concept to prints every editorial
concept to prints every editorial
concept to prints every editorial decision is deliberate we’re used to
decision is deliberate we’re used to
decision is deliberate we’re used to seeing people of color presented in very
seeing people of color presented in very
seeing people of color presented in very narrow ways in general media for
narrow ways in general media for
narrow ways in general media for instance in fashion you might see a
instance in fashion you might see a
instance in fashion you might see a black model cast in an urban or generic
black model cast in an urban or generic
black model cast in an urban or generic African tribe shoot or you might see a
African tribe shoot or you might see a
African tribe shoot or you might see a single model of color in an ensemble of
single model of color in an ensemble of
single model of color in an ensemble of otherwise white models casting directors
otherwise white models casting directors
otherwise white models casting directors have said and this is a direct quote
have said and this is a direct quote
have said and this is a direct quote black girls don’t sell luxury they don’t
black girls don’t sell luxury they don’t
black girls don’t sell luxury they don’t have the look agency scouts will reject
have the look agency scouts will reject
have the look agency scouts will reject models of color if they already have a
models of color if they already have a
models of color if they already have a couple on their boards cosmetics brands
couple on their boards cosmetics brands
couple on their boards cosmetics brands will hire pale models and then darken
will hire pale models and then darken
will hire pale models and then darken their skin to the point of blackface
their skin to the point of blackface
their skin to the point of blackface instead of just hiring models who were
instead of just hiring models who were
instead of just hiring models who were born with the aesthetic that these
born with the aesthetic that these
born with the aesthetic that these brands are clearly going for
that Cosmo article was pulled after
that Cosmo article was pulled after public outcry but the cycle is the same
public outcry but the cycle is the same
public outcry but the cycle is the same and when we’re presented with media that
and when we’re presented with media that
and when we’re presented with media that directly challenges what we’re used to
directly challenges what we’re used to
directly challenges what we’re used to seeing it can be a bit jarring every
seeing it can be a bit jarring every
seeing it can be a bit jarring every time I take belladonna into a new store
time I take belladonna into a new store
time I take belladonna into a new store I am prepared with my arguments I’m
I am prepared with my arguments I’m
I am prepared with my arguments I’m ready to defend it to neutralize the
ready to defend it to neutralize the
ready to defend it to neutralize the implication of having so many brown
implication of having so many brown
implication of having so many brown girls on my cover by now I’ve gotten
girls on my cover by now I’ve gotten
girls on my cover by now I’ve gotten used to the look on people’s faces that
used to the look on people’s faces that
used to the look on people’s faces that tells me they’re unsettled by what they
tells me they’re unsettled by what they
tells me they’re unsettled by what they see although sometimes they will just
see although sometimes they will just
see although sometimes they will just let me know outright take for instance
let me know outright take for instance
let me know outright take for instance the librarian who flips through the
the librarian who flips through the
the librarian who flips through the second issue and asks what is this some
second issue and asks what is this some
second issue and asks what is this some kind of black girl book what I want to
kind of black girl book what I want to
kind of black girl book what I want to say is it’s actually the city’s first
say is it’s actually the city’s first
say is it’s actually the city’s first fashion magazine and on a larger scale
fashion magazine and on a larger scale
fashion magazine and on a larger scale it’s the first black woman owned prints
it’s the first black woman owned prints
it’s the first black woman owned prints fashion publication to hit US markets in
fashion publication to hit US markets in
fashion publication to hit US markets in years
I didn’t say that because like the many
I didn’t say that because like the many people who will ask me variations of
people who will ask me variations of
people who will ask me variations of that question after her she wasn’t being
that question after her she wasn’t being
that question after her she wasn’t being malicious although it’s funny I’m always
malicious although it’s funny I’m always
malicious although it’s funny I’m always asked these questions by people who
asked these questions by people who
asked these questions by people who shelves hold rows and rows of paid
shelves hold rows and rows of paid
shelves hold rows and rows of paid subscriptions to white girl books and
subscriptions to white girl books and
subscriptions to white girl books and store owners whose floors are littered
store owners whose floors are littered
store owners whose floors are littered with copies of the most recent white
with copies of the most recent white
with copies of the most recent white girl books I walk into a bookstore and
girl books I walk into a bookstore and
girl books I walk into a bookstore and counts for cover models of color on a
counts for cover models of color on a
counts for cover models of color on a shelf holding over 30 fashion magazines
shelf holding over 30 fashion magazines
shelf holding over 30 fashion magazines in the issue that librarian was looking
in the issue that librarian was looking
in the issue that librarian was looking at the cover model was Korean and black
at the cover model was Korean and black
at the cover model was Korean and black girls were actually outnumbered I know
girls were actually outnumbered I know
girls were actually outnumbered I know because I cast them it’s just so unusual
because I cast them it’s just so unusual
because I cast them it’s just so unusual to see Brown models as the focal points
to see Brown models as the focal points
to see Brown models as the focal points in fashion photography and publishing
in fashion photography and publishing
in fashion photography and publishing that she had to ask there was a point
that she had to ask there was a point
that she had to ask there was a point when I felt like I couldn’t cast
when I felt like I couldn’t cast
when I felt like I couldn’t cast multiple black models in a series or I
multiple black models in a series or I
multiple black models in a series or I would risk my work becoming what only
would risk my work becoming what only
would risk my work becoming what only that black girl book I’ve spoken with
that black girl book I’ve spoken with
that black girl book I’ve spoken with photographers and publishers of color
photographers and publishers of color
photographers and publishers of color whose portfolios are mostly or even
whose portfolios are mostly or even
whose portfolios are mostly or even exclusively full of white models because
exclusively full of white models because
exclusively full of white models because sometimes minority creators feel a
sometimes minority creators feel a
sometimes minority creators feel a pressure to stick to the status quo or
pressure to stick to the status quo or
pressure to stick to the status quo or we risk killing our careers before
we risk killing our careers before
we risk killing our careers before they’ve even started in fact when
they’ve even started in fact when
they’ve even started in fact when getting ready to talk to you today I
getting ready to talk to you today I
getting ready to talk to you today I felt like I had to soften my words that
felt like I had to soften my words that
felt like I had to soften my words that I wouldn’t risk making a wood majority
I wouldn’t risk making a wood majority
I wouldn’t risk making a wood majority white audience to uncomfortable as
white audience to uncomfortable as
white audience to uncomfortable as marginalized creators we’re placed in
marginalized creators we’re placed in
marginalized creators we’re placed in this awkward position while we’re trying
this awkward position while we’re trying
this awkward position while we’re trying to create things that are new and fresh
to create things that are new and fresh
to create things that are new and fresh and diverse it feels like you can rock
and diverse it feels like you can rock
and diverse it feels like you can rock the boat but you can’t capsize it so ask
the boat but you can’t capsize it so ask
the boat but you can’t capsize it so ask me why I’m bored with the talks and the
me why I’m bored with the talks and the
me why I’m bored with the talks and the articles that ask do we have diversity
articles that ask do we have diversity
articles that ask do we have diversity problems
it is nothing new in the 19th century a
it is nothing new in the 19th century a black female sculptor named ed Manya
black female sculptor named ed Manya
black female sculptor named ed Manya Lewis deliberately sculpted busts with
Lewis deliberately sculpted busts with
Lewis deliberately sculpted busts with Eurocentric features so that white
Eurocentric features so that white
Eurocentric features so that white audiences would not miss read her work
audiences would not miss read her work
audiences would not miss read her work as self portraiture she just wanted to
as self portraiture she just wanted to
as self portraiture she just wanted to be as an artist and I think a lot of
be as an artist and I think a lot of
be as an artist and I think a lot of marginalized creators feel that way
marginalized creators feel that way
marginalized creators feel that way today too
today too
today too like we have to temper our arts it’s a
like we have to temper our arts it’s a
like we have to temper our arts it’s a better fit the mainstream if we want to
better fit the mainstream if we want to
better fit the mainstream if we want to get taken seriously and not get
get taken seriously and not get
get taken seriously and not get pigeonholed and personally I find it a
pigeonholed and personally I find it a
pigeonholed and personally I find it a little tiring that as a black female
little tiring that as a black female
little tiring that as a black female artist in 2017 I’m experiencing the same
artist in 2017 I’m experiencing the same
artist in 2017 I’m experiencing the same artistic claustrophobia that ammonia
artistic claustrophobia that ammonia
artistic claustrophobia that ammonia Lewis experienced in the 19th century a
Lewis experienced in the 19th century a
Lewis experienced in the 19th century a hundred and ten years is a long time to
hundred and ten years is a long time to
hundred and ten years is a long time to wait for these conversations to shift to
wait for these conversations to shift to
wait for these conversations to shift to action I genuinely believe that we can
action I genuinely believe that we can
action I genuinely believe that we can change the media landscape but we’re
change the media landscape but we’re
change the media landscape but we’re going to have to be critical about what
going to have to be critical about what
going to have to be critical about what we consume and why we create what we do
we consume and why we create what we do
we consume and why we create what we do calling out racial bias and media
calling out racial bias and media
calling out racial bias and media doesn’t mean that I’m playing the victim
doesn’t mean that I’m playing the victim
doesn’t mean that I’m playing the victim and it doesn’t mean that I’m attacking
and it doesn’t mean that I’m attacking
and it doesn’t mean that I’m attacking you for not noticing it aggressive
you for not noticing it aggressive
you for not noticing it aggressive defensive ‘no swen it comes to race has
defensive ‘no swen it comes to race has
defensive ‘no swen it comes to race has to stop and we also need to recognize
to stop and we also need to recognize
to stop and we also need to recognize our implicit biases in other areas too
our implicit biases in other areas too
our implicit biases in other areas too for instance I had to acknowledge that I
for instance I had to acknowledge that I
for instance I had to acknowledge that I don’t publish enough physical diversity
don’t publish enough physical diversity
don’t publish enough physical diversity now part of that is because fashionable
now part of that is because fashionable
now part of that is because fashionable plus-sized clothing isn’t always as
plus-sized clothing isn’t always as
plus-sized clothing isn’t always as easily accessible but that’s a different
easily accessible but that’s a different
easily accessible but that’s a different talk however instead of copping out
talk however instead of copping out
talk however instead of copping out instead of saying curvy girls can’t sell
instead of saying curvy girls can’t sell
instead of saying curvy girls can’t sell fashion or they don’t have the look I
fashion or they don’t have the look I
fashion or they don’t have the look I reach out to creative directors who have
reach out to creative directors who have
reach out to creative directors who have access that I don’t because that is my
access that I don’t because that is my
access that I don’t because that is my responsibility as an artist to do better
responsibility as an artist to do better
responsibility as an artist to do better and
and
and an audience it is your responsibility to
an audience it is your responsibility to
an audience it is your responsibility to demand better I didn’t start a fashion
demand better I didn’t start a fashion
demand better I didn’t start a fashion magazine when I was 19 because I wanted
magazine when I was 19 because I wanted
magazine when I was 19 because I wanted to hemorrhage money and stress out about
to hemorrhage money and stress out about
to hemorrhage money and stress out about print deadlines every quarter I started
print deadlines every quarter I started
print deadlines every quarter I started it because I needed to create more of
it because I needed to create more of
it because I needed to create more of the types of images that I wish I had
the types of images that I wish I had
the types of images that I wish I had seen when I was growing up images that
seen when I was growing up images that
seen when I was growing up images that reject the idea that women of color only
reject the idea that women of color only
reject the idea that women of color only exists as tokens or the background
exists as tokens or the background
exists as tokens or the background characters in someone else’s story I
characters in someone else’s story I
characters in someone else’s story I create and publish arts that rejects the
create and publish arts that rejects the
create and publish arts that rejects the idea that women who look like me can’t
idea that women who look like me can’t
idea that women who look like me can’t sell you beauty or that models of color
sell you beauty or that models of color
sell you beauty or that models of color can’t sell you luxury or glamour but
can’t sell you luxury or glamour but
can’t sell you luxury or glamour but I’ll do my part okay I will continue to
I’ll do my part okay I will continue to
I’ll do my part okay I will continue to create however I challenge you to
create however I challenge you to
create however I challenge you to consider what you consume your favorite
consider what you consume your favorite
consider what you consume your favorite publications brands and companies they
publications brands and companies they
publications brands and companies they will listen but it is your job to make
will listen but it is your job to make
will listen but it is your job to make them thank you
”
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