the three of us are all very happy to be here we wanted to thank National
here we wanted to thank National
here we wanted to thank National Geographic for having us it’s always an
Geographic for having us it’s always an
Geographic for having us it’s always an honor to speak here but I first read
honor to speak here but I first read
honor to speak here but I first read about Marc probably close to twenty
about Marc probably close to twenty
about Marc probably close to twenty years ago Marc’s been exploring the
years ago Marc’s been exploring the
years ago Marc’s been exploring the world for a long time and I consider him
world for a long time and I consider him
world for a long time and I consider him probably one of the most prolific
probably one of the most prolific
probably one of the most prolific exploratory rock climbers out there he’s
exploratory rock climbers out there he’s
exploratory rock climbers out there he’s basically scoured the earth in search of
basically scoured the earth in search of
basically scoured the earth in search of rock climbing and some of the most
rock climbing and some of the most
rock climbing and some of the most difficult situations I’ve been in have
difficult situations I’ve been in have
difficult situations I’ve been in have actually been on trips with Marc
actually been on trips with Marc
actually been on trips with Marc obviously Alex and I have done a bit of
obviously Alex and I have done a bit of
obviously Alex and I have done a bit of work together it’s kind of a symbiotic
work together it’s kind of a symbiotic
work together it’s kind of a symbiotic relationship between athletes and
relationship between athletes and
relationship between athletes and photographers and this is the cover
photographers and this is the cover
photographers and this is the cover story that we shot together and you know
story that we shot together and you know
story that we shot together and you know a lot of people think he’s just
a lot of people think he’s just
a lot of people think he’s just straight-up crazy and I spend a lot of
straight-up crazy and I spend a lot of
straight-up crazy and I spend a lot of time defending him and saying he’s not
time defending him and saying he’s not
time defending him and saying he’s not crazy he’s actually just a very very
crazy he’s actually just a very very
crazy he’s actually just a very very talented climber and there’s a reason
talented climber and there’s a reason
talented climber and there’s a reason why all have Alex’s friends call him no
why all have Alex’s friends call him no
why all have Alex’s friends call him no big deal Honnold because there’s
big deal Honnold because there’s
big deal Honnold because there’s absolutely nothing that he does that he
absolutely nothing that he does that he
absolutely nothing that he does that he thinks is a big deal so everything that
thinks is a big deal so everything that
thinks is a big deal so everything that he says multiplied by a factor of
he says multiplied by a factor of
he says multiplied by a factor of approximately 5 3 to 5 and then Mark who
approximately 5 3 to 5 and then Mark who
approximately 5 3 to 5 and then Mark who I know is going to tell some stories
I know is going to tell some stories
I know is going to tell some stories about me
about me
about me he’s year after / I was gonna pick /
he’s year after / I was gonna pick /
he’s year after / I was gonna pick / reason ok so that’s how I’m gonna set
reason ok so that’s how I’m gonna set
reason ok so that’s how I’m gonna set the stage here you go mark
the stage here you go mark
the stage here you go mark thank you thank you Jimmy well Jimmy is
thank you thank you Jimmy well Jimmy is
thank you thank you Jimmy well Jimmy is a very modest guy and um you know you
a very modest guy and um you know you
a very modest guy and um you know you notice that he didn’t really say a whole
notice that he didn’t really say a whole
notice that he didn’t really say a whole lot about himself there but you know he
lot about himself there but you know he
lot about himself there but you know he is also a world-class athlete in his own
is also a world-class athlete in his own
is also a world-class athlete in his own right but really makes Jimmy so special
right but really makes Jimmy so special
right but really makes Jimmy so special is the fact that he has the camera with
is the fact that he has the camera with
is the fact that he has the camera with him when he’s doing this stuff
him when he’s doing this stuff
him when he’s doing this stuff and he’s he’s usually the first call
and he’s he’s usually the first call
and he’s he’s usually the first call that I make when I come up with with one
that I make when I come up with with one
that I make when I come up with with one of these ideas and when Alex had I guess
of these ideas and when Alex had I guess
of these ideas and when Alex had I guess what they’re called the greatest rookie
what they’re called the greatest rookie
what they’re called the greatest rookie season ever in Yosemite National Park by
season ever in Yosemite National Park by
season ever in Yosemite National Park by free soloing all these big walls a lot
free soloing all these big walls a lot
free soloing all these big walls a lot of things started happening for Alex one
of things started happening for Alex one
of things started happening for Alex one of which was that he got invited to join
of which was that he got invited to join
of which was that he got invited to join the North Face climbing team and Jimmy
the North Face climbing team and Jimmy
the North Face climbing team and Jimmy and I were already on that team and I
and I were already on that team and I
and I were already on that team and I had this trip to Lowe’s gully and in
had this trip to Lowe’s gully and in
had this trip to Lowe’s gully and in Borneo and Alex had just joined the team
Borneo and Alex had just joined the team
Borneo and Alex had just joined the team and so my boss at the North Face she
and so my boss at the North Face she
and so my boss at the North Face she said hey I got an idea what do you think
said hey I got an idea what do you think
said hey I got an idea what do you think about inviting Alex Honnold on your trip
about inviting Alex Honnold on your trip
about inviting Alex Honnold on your trip and my initial reaction was like wow wow
and my initial reaction was like wow wow
and my initial reaction was like wow wow that sounds like a really bad idea like
that sounds like a really bad idea like
that sounds like a really bad idea like I like to climb with a rope and this guy
I like to climb with a rope and this guy
I like to climb with a rope and this guy seems really crazy like we’re not really
seems really crazy like we’re not really
seems really crazy like we’re not really on the same page
on the same page
on the same page you know but we are pro climbers and and
you know but we are pro climbers and and
you know but we are pro climbers and and I remember my boss saying something like
I remember my boss saying something like
I remember my boss saying something like look you know I’d really appreciate it
look you know I’d really appreciate it
look you know I’d really appreciate it if you invited Alex and I and I like
if you invited Alex and I and I like
if you invited Alex and I and I like thought about it and I was like okay I
thought about it and I was like okay I
thought about it and I was like okay I gotcha I’m like he’s in and so we we
gotcha I’m like he’s in and so we we
gotcha I’m like he’s in and so we we brought Alex along and it was his first
brought Alex along and it was his first
brought Alex along and it was his first expedition my goal here is sort of just
expedition my goal here is sort of just
expedition my goal here is sort of just a free climb as much as I can so that
a free climb as much as I can so that
a free climb as much as I can so that means that I come just behind everybody
means that I come just behind everybody
means that I come just behind everybody as long as I’m actually climbing that’s
as long as I’m actually climbing that’s
as long as I’m actually climbing that’s more important to me than than pushing
more important to me than than pushing
more important to me than than pushing our high point when Alex Honnold was
our high point when Alex Honnold was
our high point when Alex Honnold was somebody that I didn’t know it’s really
somebody that I didn’t know it’s really
somebody that I didn’t know it’s really interesting dynamic mentorship teach
interesting dynamic mentorship teach
interesting dynamic mentorship teach them you know how we go about doing
them you know how we go about doing
them you know how we go about doing these types of pioneering first ascents
these types of pioneering first ascents
these types of pioneering first ascents but I’m learning a lot of stuff from him
but I’m learning a lot of stuff from him
but I’m learning a lot of stuff from him too because he’s such an amazingly
too because he’s such an amazingly
too because he’s such an amazingly talented climber over the years is like
talented climber over the years is like
talented climber over the years is like the longer that I’ve climbed kind of the
the longer that I’ve climbed kind of the
the longer that I’ve climbed kind of the more cautious I become every year I kind
more cautious I become every year I kind
more cautious I become every year I kind of reel it in a little more and a little
of reel it in a little more and a little
of reel it in a little more and a little more a little more
more a little more
more a little more now I’m going out with this guy who’s
now I’m going out with this guy who’s
now I’m going out with this guy who’s kind of like the opposite of that
kind of like the opposite of that
kind of like the opposite of that he’s like letting the line out letting
he’s like letting the line out letting
he’s like letting the line out letting it out or more a little more it’s it’s
it out or more a little more it’s it’s
it out or more a little more it’s it’s it’s been good and that it’s it’s
it’s been good and that it’s it’s
it’s been good and that it’s it’s helping me to realize you’re like I
helping me to realize you’re like I
helping me to realize you’re like I can’t reel it in too much crazy location
can’t reel it in too much crazy location
can’t reel it in too much crazy location where your thousand feet off the ground
where your thousand feet off the ground
where your thousand feet off the ground in the middle of nowhere like you kind
in the middle of nowhere like you kind
in the middle of nowhere like you kind of have to go for it in this sport
of have to go for it in this sport
of have to go for it in this sport there’s a little scary around leaders
there’s a little scary around leaders
there’s a little scary around leaders from the sick about preserving your
from the sick about preserving your
from the sick about preserving your safety and all that I try so hard but at
safety and all that I try so hard but at
safety and all that I try so hard but at the same time kind of preserving like
the same time kind of preserving like
the same time kind of preserving like that fit that spirit of adventure and
that fit that spirit of adventure and
that fit that spirit of adventure and going for it which is right at the
going for it which is right at the
going for it which is right at the essence one over yeah dude
you didn’t even get pumped I don’t know
you didn’t even get pumped I don’t know I’m numb doubt though listen how it’s
I’m numb doubt though listen how it’s
I’m numb doubt though listen how it’s almost become a tradition every year
almost become a tradition every year
almost become a tradition every year mark comes up with some crazy trip and
mark comes up with some crazy trip and
mark comes up with some crazy trip and the next year we went to Chad which are
the next year we went to Chad which are
the next year we went to Chad which are these photos just the middle of the
these photos just the middle of the
these photos just the middle of the desert the middle of nowhere
desert the middle of nowhere
desert the middle of nowhere climbing remote towers you know super
climbing remote towers you know super
climbing remote towers you know super exotic like cultural experience to get
exotic like cultural experience to get
exotic like cultural experience to get there crazy climbing really kind of
there crazy climbing really kind of
there crazy climbing really kind of exciting well this was a kind of a
exciting well this was a kind of a
exciting well this was a kind of a unique destination and this place is
unique destination and this place is
unique destination and this place is called the Nettie plateau it’s on the
called the Nettie plateau it’s on the
called the Nettie plateau it’s on the edge of the Sahara Desert I found out
edge of the Sahara Desert I found out
edge of the Sahara Desert I found out about it just from like a rumor that I
about it just from like a rumor that I
about it just from like a rumor that I heard when I was in Cameroon and then I
heard when I was in Cameroon and then I
heard when I was in Cameroon and then I did a search on Google Earth which is
did a search on Google Earth which is
did a search on Google Earth which is how I found the Annette e and the
how I found the Annette e and the
how I found the Annette e and the Annette E is basically like the
Annette E is basically like the
Annette E is basically like the Canyonlands desert in Utah
Canyonlands desert in Utah
Canyonlands desert in Utah except that had never been visited by
except that had never been visited by
except that had never been visited by climbers before and so we that’s what we
climbers before and so we that’s what we
climbers before and so we that’s what we did when we were there as we went and we
did when we were there as we went and we
did when we were there as we went and we we sought out the best towers like this
we sought out the best towers like this
we sought out the best towers like this one that you’re looking at right here
one that you’re looking at right here
one that you’re looking at right here which is called the wine bottle so we’re
which is called the wine bottle so we’re
which is called the wine bottle so we’re we’re traveling out here we’re in the
we’re traveling out here we’re in the
we’re traveling out here we’re in the nettie we’re in the middle of nowhere
nettie we’re in the middle of nowhere
nettie we’re in the middle of nowhere and we’re scoping out this one tower
and we’re scoping out this one tower
and we’re scoping out this one tower we’re looking at it we’re trying to
we’re looking at it we’re trying to
we’re looking at it we’re trying to figure out which way we’re going to go
figure out which way we’re going to go
figure out which way we’re going to go up and all of a sudden these guys just
up and all of a sudden these guys just
up and all of a sudden these guys just sort of materialized out of the rocks
sort of materialized out of the rocks
sort of materialized out of the rocks none of us were really expecting to see
none of us were really expecting to see
none of us were really expecting to see anybody at this point and they were
anybody at this point and they were
anybody at this point and they were there to rob us I don’t think there’s
there to rob us I don’t think there’s
there to rob us I don’t think there’s any doubt about that that got one of the
any doubt about that that got one of the
any doubt about that that got one of the packs right off that had you know ten
packs right off that had you know ten
packs right off that had you know ten thousand dollars worth of camera gear in
thousand dollars worth of camera gear in
thousand dollars worth of camera gear in it and it was Renault’s Turks pack and
it and it was Renault’s Turks pack and
it and it was Renault’s Turks pack and run on like God in a tug of war with the
run on like God in a tug of war with the
run on like God in a tug of war with the Bandit which I think most of us thought
Bandit which I think most of us thought
Bandit which I think most of us thought was kind of insane because this guy had
was kind of insane because this guy had
was kind of insane because this guy had a dagger with this other hand Renan was
a dagger with this other hand Renan was
a dagger with this other hand Renan was filming the robbery and which is where
filming the robbery and which is where
filming the robbery and which is where this photo comes from if if you’ve ever
this photo comes from if if you’ve ever
this photo comes from if if you’ve ever been attacked by bandits you’ll know
been attacked by bandits you’ll know
been attacked by bandits you’ll know they don’t like being filmed while
they don’t like being filmed while
they don’t like being filmed while they’re robbing you
they’re robbing you
they’re robbing you so this would be one of those times
so this would be one of those times
so this would be one of those times where you get kind of like the instinct
where you get kind of like the instinct
where you get kind of like the instinct for fight or flight and so for me you
for fight or flight and so for me you
for fight or flight and so for me you know I was thinking all right I’m gonna
know I was thinking all right I’m gonna
know I was thinking all right I’m gonna run away from here very fast and I was
run away from here very fast and I was
run away from here very fast and I was right about to take off when I look over
right about to take off when I look over
right about to take off when I look over and I see Jimmy pick up a small boulder
and I see Jimmy pick up a small boulder
and I see Jimmy pick up a small boulder and hold it up over his head as if he
and hold it up over his head as if he
and hold it up over his head as if he was cro-magnon man and I thought to
was cro-magnon man and I thought to
was cro-magnon man and I thought to myself to her to Jimmy you know first of
myself to her to Jimmy you know first of
myself to her to Jimmy you know first of all I don’t think of rocks gonna do a
all I don’t think of rocks gonna do a
all I don’t think of rocks gonna do a whole lot right now and now I don’t feel
whole lot right now and now I don’t feel
whole lot right now and now I don’t feel that good about running away because
that good about running away because
that good about running away because Jimmy has decided he’s gonna fight and
Jimmy has decided he’s gonna fight and
Jimmy has decided he’s gonna fight and I’m very loyal to my friends so I said
I’m very loyal to my friends so I said
I’m very loyal to my friends so I said to myself okay here’s how it’s gonna
to myself okay here’s how it’s gonna
to myself okay here’s how it’s gonna work mark I’m gonna look down at my foot
work mark I’m gonna look down at my foot
work mark I’m gonna look down at my foot if I see anything down there that could
if I see anything down there that could
if I see anything down there that could that could serve as a weapon I’m back in
that could serve as a weapon I’m back in
that could serve as a weapon I’m back in Jimmy up if there’s nothing there I’m
Jimmy up if there’s nothing there I’m
Jimmy up if there’s nothing there I’m gonna run and I look down and darn it
gonna run and I look down and darn it
gonna run and I look down and darn it leaning against my foot is like this
leaning against my foot is like this
leaning against my foot is like this gnarled Club we ang was like the biggest
gnarled Club we ang was like the biggest
gnarled Club we ang was like the biggest piece of wood in the entire nettie
piece of wood in the entire nettie
piece of wood in the entire nettie desert didn’t he picked it up it but you
desert didn’t he picked it up it but you
desert didn’t he picked it up it but you can see a lot of wood the thing is that
can see a lot of wood the thing is that
can see a lot of wood the thing is that these these bandits that he’s talking
these these bandits that he’s talking
these these bandits that he’s talking about really were like fourteen-year-old
about really were like fourteen-year-old
about really were like fourteen-year-old boys and they were like half our size
boys and they were like half our size
boys and they were like half our size like you really mark is like an ogre
like you really mark is like an ogre
like you really mark is like an ogre compared to them he’s holding a club
compared to them he’s holding a club
compared to them he’s holding a club that’s like as big as their entire body
that’s like as big as their entire body
that’s like as big as their entire body anyway there were five of us and we were
anyway there were five of us and we were
anyway there were five of us and we were twice as big as them and then it’s like
twice as big as them and then it’s like
twice as big as them and then it’s like three punk kids with like this little
three punk kids with like this little
three punk kids with like this little tiny not really like it’s not okay can I
tiny not really like it’s not okay can I
tiny not really like it’s not okay can I get a story
get a story
get a story over there to be fair though they
over there to be fair though they
over there to be fair though they probably looked like half our size and
probably looked like half our size and
probably looked like half our size and punk kids from a hundred yards away
punk kids from a hundred yards away
punk kids from a hundred yards away where you were standing all I saw was
where you were standing all I saw was
where you were standing all I saw was mark yeah anyway well it’s true when we
mark yeah anyway well it’s true when we
mark yeah anyway well it’s true when we had the final faceoff with the guys I
had the final faceoff with the guys I
had the final faceoff with the guys I didn’t see Alex there it was me and
didn’t see Alex there it was me and
didn’t see Alex there it was me and Jimmy and I had the club and and Jimmy
Jimmy and I had the club and and Jimmy
Jimmy and I had the club and and Jimmy had the rock so they put the stuff down
had the rock so they put the stuff down
had the rock so they put the stuff down and they basically disappeared back into
and they basically disappeared back into
and they basically disappeared back into the rocks one guy actually had Jimmy
the rocks one guy actually had Jimmy
the rocks one guy actually had Jimmy sunglasses and he could have kept those
sunglasses and he could have kept those
sunglasses and he could have kept those but he gave them back and that was a
but he gave them back and that was a
but he gave them back and that was a great adventure for us and you know we
great adventure for us and you know we
great adventure for us and you know we we the three of us you know and these
we the three of us you know and these
we the three of us you know and these other people we team up with we we make
other people we team up with we we make
other people we team up with we we make a good team and and so I think I’m the
a good team and and so I think I’m the
a good team and and so I think I’m the one who’s you know sort of supposed to
one who’s you know sort of supposed to
one who’s you know sort of supposed to find where we’re gonna go next and I do
find where we’re gonna go next and I do
find where we’re gonna go next and I do a lot of my research in places like
a lot of my research in places like
a lot of my research in places like National Geographic magazine that was
National Geographic magazine that was
National Geographic magazine that was how I found out about the moose and Dawn
how I found out about the moose and Dawn
how I found out about the moose and Dawn Peninsula there was just a little
Peninsula there was just a little
Peninsula there was just a little mention of it like a one-sentence thing
mention of it like a one-sentence thing
mention of it like a one-sentence thing that said moose and Dom Peninsula and
that said moose and Dom Peninsula and
that said moose and Dom Peninsula and that was really all I need and then I
that was really all I need and then I
that was really all I need and then I went from there and I started searching
went from there and I started searching
went from there and I started searching and looking on Google Earth this is the
and looking on Google Earth this is the
and looking on Google Earth this is the map that’s actually in the article and
map that’s actually in the article and
map that’s actually in the article and this is what inspired me was when I saw
this is what inspired me was when I saw
this is what inspired me was when I saw the topography here and they call this
the topography here and they call this
the topography here and they call this the Norway of the Persian Gulf
the Norway of the Persian Gulf
the Norway of the Persian Gulf there’s fjords with giant cliffs coming
there’s fjords with giant cliffs coming
there’s fjords with giant cliffs coming out of the ocean the unique thing about
out of the ocean the unique thing about
out of the ocean the unique thing about this place is the only way that you can
this place is the only way that you can
this place is the only way that you can really explore it effectively is by boat
really explore it effectively is by boat
really explore it effectively is by boat and so I came up with the idea that we
and so I came up with the idea that we
and so I came up with the idea that we would charter a boat and that we would
would charter a boat and that we would
would charter a boat and that we would use the boat as our way to access all
use the boat as our way to access all
use the boat as our way to access all these different fjords and to explore
these different fjords and to explore
these different fjords and to explore and have a you know camp that we could
and have a you know camp that we could
and have a you know camp that we could come back to the Jimmy’s going to talk a
come back to the Jimmy’s going to talk a
come back to the Jimmy’s going to talk a little bit about what happened next well
little bit about what happened next well
little bit about what happened next well nothing terrible but of course you know
nothing terrible but of course you know
nothing terrible but of course you know being on a trip with Mark I expected to
being on a trip with Mark I expected to
being on a trip with Mark I expected to both
both
both or something else like that but I’m
or something else like that but I’m
or something else like that but I’m everywhere you looked with these
everywhere you looked with these
everywhere you looked with these beautiful fjords and beautiful limestone
beautiful fjords and beautiful limestone
beautiful fjords and beautiful limestone walls and these beautiful villages kind
walls and these beautiful villages kind
walls and these beautiful villages kind of tucked into the ends of these fjords
of tucked into the ends of these fjords
of tucked into the ends of these fjords and you know we would be hiking up these
and you know we would be hiking up these
and you know we would be hiking up these incredible incredible mountains right
incredible incredible mountains right
incredible incredible mountains right above the ocean and it was really really
above the ocean and it was really really
above the ocean and it was really really spectacular you know you’d be going
spectacular you know you’d be going
spectacular you know you’d be going along and on the boat and you’d
along and on the boat and you’d
along and on the boat and you’d literally be able to point towards
literally be able to point towards
literally be able to point towards something you’d be like wow that looks
something you’d be like wow that looks
something you’d be like wow that looks like an amazing climb or that looks like
like an amazing climb or that looks like
like an amazing climb or that looks like an amazing mountain and we would sail up
an amazing mountain and we would sail up
an amazing mountain and we would sail up and anchor and then be able to go climb
and anchor and then be able to go climb
and anchor and then be able to go climb these things of course you know and
these things of course you know and
these things of course you know and Aleks and the other climber on the team
Aleks and the other climber on the team
Aleks and the other climber on the team was hazel and they wanted to go do a
was hazel and they wanted to go do a
was hazel and they wanted to go do a route and then run on and Mark went to
route and then run on and Mark went to
route and then run on and Mark went to do a route and Mikey Schafer who is my
do a route and Mikey Schafer who is my
do a route and Mikey Schafer who is my assistant on the project and an
assistant on the project and an
assistant on the project and an incredible climber and great friend as
incredible climber and great friend as
incredible climber and great friend as well we were going to do a route so you
well we were going to do a route so you
well we were going to do a route so you know we were on this wall and about a
know we were on this wall and about a
know we were on this wall and about a thousand feet up the wall Mikey pulls
thousand feet up the wall Mikey pulls
thousand feet up the wall Mikey pulls off this rock and it’s hurtling at me
off this rock and it’s hurtling at me
off this rock and it’s hurtling at me and basically about 50 feet above my
and basically about 50 feet above my
and basically about 50 feet above my head it explodes and hits the wall you
head it explodes and hits the wall you
head it explodes and hits the wall you know Mike he’s like hey you okay and I’m
know Mike he’s like hey you okay and I’m
know Mike he’s like hey you okay and I’m like yeah I’m fine and he continues
like yeah I’m fine and he continues
like yeah I’m fine and he continues climbing he climbs around the corner and
climbing he climbs around the corner and
climbing he climbs around the corner and I don’t see him and I wait for about
I don’t see him and I wait for about
I don’t see him and I wait for about half an hour and the Rope just hasn’t
half an hour and the Rope just hasn’t
half an hour and the Rope just hasn’t moved and I thought well I guess he’s
moved and I thought well I guess he’s
moved and I thought well I guess he’s probably stopped and just setting
probably stopped and just setting
probably stopped and just setting something up and but about half an hour
something up and but about half an hour
something up and but about half an hour later I hear him yell hey Jimmy I’m off
later I hear him yell hey Jimmy I’m off
later I hear him yell hey Jimmy I’m off belay which means that he’s climbed up
belay which means that he’s climbed up
belay which means that he’s climbed up to a point
to a point
to a point built an anchor anchored himself into
built an anchor anchored himself into
built an anchor anchored himself into the wall and now I can take him off
the wall and now I can take him off
the wall and now I can take him off belay and so I yell okay you’re off
belay and so I yell okay you’re off
belay and so I yell okay you’re off belay and I take my rope out of the
belay and I take my rope out of the
belay and I take my rope out of the belay device and I wait for about five
belay device and I wait for about five
belay device and I wait for about five minutes and I hear this blood-curdling
minutes and I hear this blood-curdling
minutes and I hear this blood-curdling scream basically like haha and I was
scream basically like haha and I was
scream basically like haha and I was like what’s going on and Mikey had
like what’s going on and Mikey had
like what’s going on and Mikey had gotten up to the anchor and was pulling
gotten up to the anchor and was pulling
gotten up to the anchor and was pulling the rope up and pulled the rope up all
the rope up and pulled the rope up all
the rope up and pulled the rope up all the way to the end and at the end of a
the way to the end and at the end of a
the way to the end and at the end of a rope that having completely cut in
rope that having completely cut in
rope that having completely cut in like not even attached to anything and
like not even attached to anything and
like not even attached to anything and that’s me on the other end and he’s like
that’s me on the other end and he’s like
that’s me on the other end and he’s like he’s like pull on your rope and I’m like
he’s like pull on your rope and I’m like
he’s like pull on your rope and I’m like what and I pull on the rope and the
what and I pull on the rope and the
what and I pull on the rope and the whole thing slithers down into my by my
whole thing slithers down into my by my
whole thing slithers down into my by my feet so we’re like a thousand feet up
feet so we’re like a thousand feet up
feet so we’re like a thousand feet up his face and there’s like another couple
his face and there’s like another couple
his face and there’s like another couple thousand feet to go and that’s the
thousand feet to go and that’s the
thousand feet to go and that’s the expression you get when you’re stuck
expression you get when you’re stuck
expression you get when you’re stuck well fortunately mark and run on being
well fortunately mark and run on being
well fortunately mark and run on being the good friends that they are came and
the good friends that they are came and
the good friends that they are came and saved us but those are kind of like the
saved us but those are kind of like the
saved us but those are kind of like the occupational hazards you sometimes have
occupational hazards you sometimes have
occupational hazards you sometimes have on these shoots so yes I saved Jimmy J
yeah and that I will just say that’s
yeah and that I will just say that’s when a few stories around like that is
when a few stories around like that is
when a few stories around like that is super super serious because like Mikey
super super serious because like Mikey
super super serious because like Mikey you know thought he was on belay the
you know thought he was on belay the
you know thought he was on belay the whole time had he waited the rope or
whole time had he waited the rope or
whole time had he waited the rope or head he like fallen or anything he would
head he like fallen or anything he would
head he like fallen or anything he would have just fallen to his death like a
have just fallen to his death like a
have just fallen to his death like a thousand feet without ever even knowing
thousand feet without ever even knowing
thousand feet without ever even knowing that his rope had been cut like it’s
that his rope had been cut like it’s
that his rope had been cut like it’s pretty crazy to get a rope cut without
pretty crazy to get a rope cut without
pretty crazy to get a rope cut without either person knowing it’s like it’s
either person knowing it’s like it’s
either person knowing it’s like it’s pretty much a worst-case scenario in
pretty much a worst-case scenario in
pretty much a worst-case scenario in climbing I mean we all were like whoa
climbing I mean we all were like whoa
climbing I mean we all were like whoa that’s a pretty serious but so the real
that’s a pretty serious but so the real
that’s a pretty serious but so the real beauty of this type of trip is the deep
beauty of this type of trip is the deep
beauty of this type of trip is the deep water soloing which is a soul lying
water soloing which is a soul lying
water soloing which is a soul lying above the ocean and that’s kind of what
above the ocean and that’s kind of what
above the ocean and that’s kind of what we were searching for is we like probed
we were searching for is we like probed
we were searching for is we like probed all these fjords we would like search
all these fjords we would like search
all these fjords we would like search along and look for cool cliffs that were
along and look for cool cliffs that were
along and look for cool cliffs that were right over the ocean that were steep
right over the ocean that were steep
right over the ocean that were steep enough and with deep enough water
enough and with deep enough water
enough and with deep enough water beneath that you could safely climb out
beneath that you could safely climb out
beneath that you could safely climb out the cliff and then fall into the water
the cliff and then fall into the water
the cliff and then fall into the water this is Hayes what was actually one of
this is Hayes what was actually one of
this is Hayes what was actually one of the best all-around female climbers in
the best all-around female climbers in
the best all-around female climbers in the world the thing with deep water
the world the thing with deep water
the world the thing with deep water soloing though I mean I say that it’s
soloing though I mean I say that it’s
soloing though I mean I say that it’s super casual super fun you know
super casual super fun you know
super casual super fun you know best-case scenario it’s like a mix
best-case scenario it’s like a mix
best-case scenario it’s like a mix between going snorkeling and going
between going snorkeling and going
between going snorkeling and going climbing and it’s like really nice but
climbing and it’s like really nice but
climbing and it’s like really nice but think it’s worst-case you know you can’t
think it’s worst-case you know you can’t
think it’s worst-case you know you can’t actually hurt yourself he pull rocks off
actually hurt yourself he pull rocks off
actually hurt yourself he pull rocks off you land in things or you could also
you land in things or you could also
you land in things or you could also take horrible falls in this case hazel
take horrible falls in this case hazel
take horrible falls in this case hazel is actually kind of playing she
is actually kind of playing she
is actually kind of playing she tightened up and do a dive maybe before
tightened up and do a dive maybe before
tightened up and do a dive maybe before she hit the water but um but this is the
she hit the water but um but this is the
she hit the water but um but this is the kind of position that you could be and
kind of position that you could be and
kind of position that you could be and if you broke a hold or something you
if you broke a hold or something you
if you broke a hold or something you know you pinwheel off backward and then
know you pinwheel off backward and then
know you pinwheel off backward and then in this case Vern on actually pulled the
in this case Vern on actually pulled the
in this case Vern on actually pulled the rock on to his head and cut his head and
rock on to his head and cut his head and
rock on to his head and cut his head and so I’m like digging around trying to
so I’m like digging around trying to
so I’m like digging around trying to find out if he’d actually like broken
find out if he’d actually like broken
find out if he’d actually like broken anything we’ve gotten pretty deep into
anything we’ve gotten pretty deep into
anything we’ve gotten pretty deep into this without talking at all about the
this without talking at all about the
this without talking at all about the people and when I started doing my my
people and when I started doing my my
people and when I started doing my my research about
research about
research about about this area the Moose on dum
about this area the Moose on dum
about this area the Moose on dum Peninsula I immediately found references
Peninsula I immediately found references
Peninsula I immediately found references to the kuzari people well I wanted to
to the kuzari people well I wanted to
to the kuzari people well I wanted to meet these people this is like a really
meet these people this is like a really
meet these people this is like a really important part of this expedition for me
important part of this expedition for me
important part of this expedition for me well we got into this village called
well we got into this village called
well we got into this village called sybbie and we had a couple of Oman teas
sybbie and we had a couple of Oman teas
sybbie and we had a couple of Oman teas on our team and they were our
on our team and they were our
on our team and they were our translators so we went ashore and we met
translators so we went ashore and we met
translators so we went ashore and we met these guys well Alex turned out he had
these guys well Alex turned out he had
these guys well Alex turned out he had his climbing shoes in his pack and and
his climbing shoes in his pack and and
his climbing shoes in his pack and and he said something to me like hey marked
he said something to me like hey marked
he said something to me like hey marked you mind if I if I go look around a
you mind if I if I go look around a
you mind if I if I go look around a little bit and I was like yeah sure
little bit and I was like yeah sure
little bit and I was like yeah sure whatever Alex you know do it we’ll do
whatever Alex you know do it we’ll do
whatever Alex you know do it we’ll do what you need to do and so he wandered
what you need to do and so he wandered
what you need to do and so he wandered off and I kept having this conversation
off and I kept having this conversation
off and I kept having this conversation Jimmy of course is taking photos he had
Jimmy of course is taking photos he had
Jimmy of course is taking photos he had a certain point these guys start
a certain point these guys start
a certain point these guys start freaking out and they all start yelling
freaking out and they all start yelling
freaking out and they all start yelling and they’re pointing up at the cliff and
and they’re pointing up at the cliff and
and they’re pointing up at the cliff and we’re like what’s going on you know and
we’re like what’s going on you know and
we’re like what’s going on you know and of course I’m thinking I’m pretty sure I
of course I’m thinking I’m pretty sure I
of course I’m thinking I’m pretty sure I know and there’s Alex scaling the
know and there’s Alex scaling the
know and there’s Alex scaling the gigantic cliff in the back of the
gigantic cliff in the back of the
gigantic cliff in the back of the village so they’re there of yelling all
village so they’re there of yelling all
village so they’re there of yelling all this stuff and I’m talking to Abdullah
this stuff and I’m talking to Abdullah
this stuff and I’m talking to Abdullah and on mic Abdullah what’s going on you
and on mic Abdullah what’s going on you
and on mic Abdullah what’s going on you know what do these guys saying and he’s
know what do these guys saying and he’s
know what do these guys saying and he’s like you know it’s really hard for me to
like you know it’s really hard for me to
like you know it’s really hard for me to translate but basically they think alex
translate but basically they think alex
translate but basically they think alex is a witch
the thing was earlier I was talking
the thing was earlier I was talking about the deep water soloing and how you
about the deep water soloing and how you
about the deep water soloing and how you know that’s kind of what we were looking
know that’s kind of what we were looking
know that’s kind of what we were looking for and it was it was fun and it was it
for and it was it was fun and it was it
for and it was it was fun and it was it was good climbing but it definitely
was good climbing but it definitely
was good climbing but it definitely wasn’t the best climbing there and so I
wasn’t the best climbing there and so I
wasn’t the best climbing there and so I think that the this kind of thing like
think that the this kind of thing like
think that the this kind of thing like these big bridges these like mountain
these big bridges these like mountain
these big bridges these like mountain climbs were kind of the the best thing
climbs were kind of the the best thing
climbs were kind of the the best thing that we had to offer the beauty of this
that we had to offer the beauty of this
that we had to offer the beauty of this type of comment to me was was being able
type of comment to me was was being able
type of comment to me was was being able to explore these different little
to explore these different little
to explore these different little features and just play around in the
features and just play around in the
features and just play around in the landscape and then we also did quite a
landscape and then we also did quite a
landscape and then we also did quite a bit of climbing with the rope climbs
bit of climbing with the rope climbs
bit of climbing with the rope climbs like this where we just basically
like this where we just basically
like this where we just basically climbed straight out of the water with a
climbed straight out of the water with a
climbed straight out of the water with a rope this particular one was just much
rope this particular one was just much
rope this particular one was just much too high to be even considered as a
too high to be even considered as a
too high to be even considered as a deep-water solo these by the time we got
deep-water solo these by the time we got
deep-water solo these by the time we got to the top we were probably 300 feet
to the top we were probably 300 feet
to the top we were probably 300 feet above the water which you know is
above the water which you know is
above the water which you know is obviously way too far to fall so this
obviously way too far to fall so this
obviously way too far to fall so this photo to me sort of sums up the beauty
photo to me sort of sums up the beauty
photo to me sort of sums up the beauty of deep water soloing and a the
of deep water soloing and a the
of deep water soloing and a the aesthetic that we are looking for on
aesthetic that we are looking for on
aesthetic that we are looking for on this trip you know you basically climb
this trip you know you basically climb
this trip you know you basically climb the best thing you can find you fall off
the best thing you can find you fall off
the best thing you can find you fall off and then you can barely see it but
and then you can barely see it but
and then you can barely see it but there’s hazel going snorkeling in the
there’s hazel going snorkeling in the
there’s hazel going snorkeling in the corner so we were sitting on the boat
corner so we were sitting on the boat
corner so we were sitting on the boat one day and we were planning out to go
one day and we were planning out to go
one day and we were planning out to go and climb that one right there and I was
and climb that one right there and I was
and climb that one right there and I was like getting the gear together and hazel
like getting the gear together and hazel
like getting the gear together and hazel and Alex you know they see me racking up
and Alex you know they see me racking up
and Alex you know they see me racking up this is the stuff that we use to like
this is the stuff that we use to like
this is the stuff that we use to like climb when you want to have like some
climb when you want to have like some
climb when you want to have like some safety and they’re like what are you
safety and they’re like what are you
safety and they’re like what are you doing I’m like I’m racking up and
doing I’m like I’m racking up and
doing I’m like I’m racking up and they’re like guy you don’t need that
they’re like guy you don’t need that
they’re like guy you don’t need that stuff they’re like we’re not taking
stuff they’re like we’re not taking
stuff they’re like we’re not taking ropes on this one and I’m like no we are
ropes on this one and I’m like no we are
ropes on this one and I’m like no we are we’re roping up I’m like that’s what a
we’re roping up I’m like that’s what a
we’re roping up I’m like that’s what a 1500 foot cliff he’s actually like 220
1500 foot cliff he’s actually like 220
1500 foot cliff he’s actually like 220 mm okay 2,000 foot cliff and I’ve been
mm okay 2,000 foot cliff and I’ve been
mm okay 2,000 foot cliff and I’ve been climbing for a pretty long time thirty
climbing for a pretty long time thirty
climbing for a pretty long time thirty years you know how old are you Alex yeah
so I like I can tell what I’m looking at
so I like I can tell what I’m looking at a rock climb I’m like that’s a rock
a rock climb I’m like that’s a rock
a rock climb I’m like that’s a rock climb right there and I have the ability
climb right there and I have the ability
climb right there and I have the ability to see parts that look difficult and I
to see parts that look difficult and I
to see parts that look difficult and I can you know just sort of you know
can you know just sort of you know
can you know just sort of you know determine yeah that looks like something
determine yeah that looks like something
determine yeah that looks like something where I should use a rope I talked them
where I should use a rope I talked them
where I should use a rope I talked them into bringing the gear along and thanks
into bringing the gear along and thanks
into bringing the gear along and thanks to Jimmy who said we needed it for the
to Jimmy who said we needed it for the
to Jimmy who said we needed it for the photos and he ended up being right so we
photos and he ended up being right so we
photos and he ended up being right so we get to the base of this climb this thing
get to the base of this climb this thing
get to the base of this climb this thing right here we’re up at the at the bottom
right here we’re up at the at the bottom
right here we’re up at the at the bottom of it and Hazel’s got the rack okay
of it and Hazel’s got the rack okay
of it and Hazel’s got the rack okay that’s the little devices that you put
that’s the little devices that you put
that’s the little devices that you put in the rock alex has the rope they’re
in the rock alex has the rope they’re
in the rock alex has the rope they’re taking that stuff because they’re
taking that stuff because they’re
taking that stuff because they’re stronger than me and they’re better and
stronger than me and they’re better and
stronger than me and they’re better and they both just take off but I yelled up
they both just take off but I yelled up
they both just take off but I yelled up to Alex hey like what’s going on you
to Alex hey like what’s going on you
to Alex hey like what’s going on you know what if we need to rope up and
know what if we need to rope up and
know what if we need to rope up and remember this guy here he’s the world’s
remember this guy here he’s the world’s
remember this guy here he’s the world’s greatest free soloist and Alex yells
greatest free soloist and Alex yells
greatest free soloist and Alex yells down to me says oh don’t worry I’ll stop
down to me says oh don’t worry I’ll stop
down to me says oh don’t worry I’ll stop when I think it’s appropriate for us to
when I think it’s appropriate for us to
when I think it’s appropriate for us to robot
true story he can’t deny it and of
true story he can’t deny it and of course that never happened I definitely
course that never happened I definitely
course that never happened I definitely didn’t use the word appropriate so he
didn’t use the word appropriate so he
didn’t use the word appropriate so he told the whole clef yeah yeah you did
told the whole clef yeah yeah you did
told the whole clef yeah yeah you did make it all the way very good effort
make it all the way very good effort
make it all the way very good effort yeah survive yeah well I think that kind
yeah survive yeah well I think that kind
yeah survive yeah well I think that kind of sums up what I saw a lot of on the
of sums up what I saw a lot of on the
of sums up what I saw a lot of on the boat and it’s always entertaining and I
boat and it’s always entertaining and I
boat and it’s always entertaining and I would go pretty much anywhere in the
would go pretty much anywhere in the
would go pretty much anywhere in the world with these guys because they keep
world with these guys because they keep
world with these guys because they keep me fairly under change I think we were
me fairly under change I think we were
me fairly under change I think we were just going to end the evening with a
just going to end the evening with a
just going to end the evening with a short clip of some of the footage that
short clip of some of the footage that
short clip of some of the footage that we shot on this trip and hope you
we shot on this trip and hope you
we shot on this trip and hope you enjoyed soloing is defined by climbing
enjoyed soloing is defined by climbing
enjoyed soloing is defined by climbing without a rope and so deep water soloing
without a rope and so deep water soloing
without a rope and so deep water soloing is soloing rock climbs above deep water
now this is the first time that I’ve
now this is the first time that I’ve ever deep water so load yeah I had the
ever deep water so load yeah I had the
ever deep water so load yeah I had the notion in my head that it was like kind
notion in my head that it was like kind
notion in my head that it was like kind of a and low commitment but I found out
of a and low commitment but I found out
of a and low commitment but I found out on this trip that it’s a lot more
on this trip that it’s a lot more
on this trip that it’s a lot more serious than I thought the water turns
serious than I thought the water turns
serious than I thought the water turns into rock when you go high enough you
into rock when you go high enough you
into rock when you go high enough you will really hurt yourself
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