
like any budding photographer you know I was of course I got National Geographic
was of course I got National Geographic
was of course I got National Geographic magazine that’s that’s sort of the
magazine that’s that’s sort of the
magazine that’s that’s sort of the standard in photography and I remember
standard in photography and I remember
standard in photography and I remember when this issue came into mail because
when this issue came into mail because
when this issue came into mail because it was a story called storming the tower
it was a story called storming the tower
it was a story called storming the tower and I you know I read the story and it
and I you know I read the story and it
and I you know I read the story and it was about four guys from Wyoming that
was about four guys from Wyoming that
was about four guys from Wyoming that went to Pakistan and they climbed this
went to Pakistan and they climbed this
went to Pakistan and they climbed this tower called the nameless tower and it
tower called the nameless tower and it
tower called the nameless tower and it was an epic adventure it was like two
was an epic adventure it was like two
was an epic adventure it was like two months and they kept getting like the
months and they kept getting like the
months and they kept getting like the weather was keeping them from completing
weather was keeping them from completing
weather was keeping them from completing this objective and there was like war
this objective and there was like war
this objective and there was like war and Pakistan and they were having to
and Pakistan and they were having to
and Pakistan and they were having to like argue with the government because
like argue with the government because
like argue with the government because their visa was way up and they just like
their visa was way up and they just like
their visa was way up and they just like pounded it get there was all these
pounded it get there was all these
pounded it get there was all these obstacles against all odds extremely
obstacles against all odds extremely
obstacles against all odds extremely difficult when they did the route and I
difficult when they did the route and I
difficult when they did the route and I remember reading it and being like that
remember reading it and being like that
remember reading it and being like that is a serious adventure like that’s like
is a serious adventure like that’s like
is a serious adventure like that’s like that’s incredible well in Colorado it
that’s incredible well in Colorado it
that’s incredible well in Colorado it wasn’t uncommon to see people rock
wasn’t uncommon to see people rock
wasn’t uncommon to see people rock climbing at different places and I had a
climbing at different places and I had a
climbing at different places and I had a couple friends that did it so I called
couple friends that did it so I called
couple friends that did it so I called up a buddy mine ISM was Ty and I told
up a buddy mine ISM was Ty and I told
up a buddy mine ISM was Ty and I told him about the story that I’d read and I
him about the story that I’d read and I
him about the story that I’d read and I asked him if he would take me out and he
asked him if he would take me out and he
asked him if he would take me out and he did so we went out climbing and for the
did so we went out climbing and for the
did so we went out climbing and for the next few years I just I fell in love
next few years I just I fell in love
next few years I just I fell in love right away and I got really into it and
right away and I got really into it and
right away and I got really into it and this now became this new reason to go on
this now became this new reason to go on
this now became this new reason to go on little weekend adventures right find a
little weekend adventures right find a
little weekend adventures right find a new climbing area and go go go with
new climbing area and go go go with
new climbing area and go go go with greeting new people and it was a new
greeting new people and it was a new
greeting new people and it was a new community of people as well well in 2003
community of people as well well in 2003
community of people as well well in 2003 September of 2003 I took a really bad
September of 2003 I took a really bad
September of 2003 I took a really bad fall I fell about thirty five feet of
fall I fell about thirty five feet of
fall I fell about thirty five feet of the way a limb which is hive and I
the way a limb which is hive and I
the way a limb which is hive and I landed on my side which is like a
landed on my side which is like a
landed on my side which is like a terrible place to land right and I broke
terrible place to land right and I broke
terrible place to land right and I broke my neck and I broke my pelvic bone I
my neck and I broke my pelvic bone I
my neck and I broke my pelvic bone I fractured my kidney in my liver I
fractured my kidney in my liver I
fractured my kidney in my liver I completely collapsed my right lung ribs
completely collapsed my right lung ribs
completely collapsed my right lung ribs I spent six days in ICU and it was a
I spent six days in ICU and it was a
I spent six days in ICU and it was a pretty serious accident and I swore off
pretty serious accident and I swore off
pretty serious accident and I swore off climbing right it didn’t take much I
climbing right it didn’t take much I
climbing right it didn’t take much I suspect that was enough I was like okay
suspect that was enough I was like okay
suspect that was enough I was like okay and in my in the defense of rock
and in my in the defense of rock
and in my in the defense of rock climbing I was climbing very recklessly
climbing I was climbing very recklessly
climbing I was climbing very recklessly I was placing gear poorly and when I
I was placing gear poorly and when I
I was placing gear poorly and when I fell it didn’t hold because I was
fell it didn’t hold because I was
fell it didn’t hold because I was rushing and I was overconfident well I
rushing and I was overconfident well I
rushing and I was overconfident well I was freelancing for a magazine outside
was freelancing for a magazine outside
was freelancing for a magazine outside of my job at hewlett-packard with the
of my job at hewlett-packard with the
of my job at hewlett-packard with the magazine called Wyoming homes and living
magazine called Wyoming homes and living
magazine called Wyoming homes and living I had a friend that worked there and I
I had a friend that worked there and I
I had a friend that worked there and I would get like two or three little
would get like two or three little
would get like two or three little assignments from them a year and about
assignments from them a year and about
assignments from them a year and about one of four months after the accident
one of four months after the accident
one of four months after the accident after I’d kind of healed up I got a
after I’d kind of healed up I got a
after I’d kind of healed up I got a phone call from one of the editors and
phone call from one of the editors and
phone call from one of the editors and they said we
they said we
they said we perfect story for you we want you to go
perfect story for you we want you to go
perfect story for you we want you to go to Devil’s Tower in Wyoming and we want
to Devil’s Tower in Wyoming and we want
to Devil’s Tower in Wyoming and we want you to go climb the tower with this guy
you to go climb the tower with this guy
you to go climb the tower with this guy Frank Sanders and you’ll stay at his
Frank Sanders and you’ll stay at his
Frank Sanders and you’ll stay at his Lodge and it’ll be a travel piece which
Lodge and it’ll be a travel piece which
Lodge and it’ll be a travel piece which we’ll get we know you like to rock climb
we’ll get we know you like to rock climb
we’ll get we know you like to rock climb so we thought we thought of you right
so we thought we thought of you right
so we thought we thought of you right away
away
away so I told him what had happened I said
so I told him what had happened I said
so I told him what had happened I said well you know I recently had a bad
well you know I recently had a bad
well you know I recently had a bad accident but I wanted the assignment
accident but I wanted the assignment
accident but I wanted the assignment right I wanted the job and I wanted to
right I wanted the job and I wanted to
right I wanted the job and I wanted to be a photographer and this was my these
be a photographer and this was my these
be a photographer and this was my these were little vignettes in to what it was
were little vignettes in to what it was
were little vignettes in to what it was like to be a photographer so I said well
like to be a photographer so I said well
like to be a photographer so I said well I’ll tell you what can I get Frank’s
I’ll tell you what can I get Frank’s
I’ll tell you what can I get Frank’s number let me just call him and I’ll see
number let me just call him and I’ll see
number let me just call him and I’ll see what this is all about like what this
what this is all about like what this
what this is all about like what this jobs like and so I called Frank up and
jobs like and so I called Frank up and
jobs like and so I called Frank up and like a classic Wyoming guy told him my
like a classic Wyoming guy told him my
like a classic Wyoming guy told him my story about falling and he’s like look
story about falling and he’s like look
story about falling and he’s like look man you had a bad fall you got to get
man you had a bad fall you got to get
man you had a bad fall you got to get back on the horse he’s like you know you
back on the horse he’s like you know you
back on the horse he’s like you know you made mistakes you should come up here
made mistakes you should come up here
made mistakes you should come up here this is going to help you you know you
this is going to help you you know you
this is going to help you you know you need to overcome this and Frank I didn’t
need to overcome this and Frank I didn’t
need to overcome this and Frank I didn’t realize that he’s a legendary rock
realize that he’s a legendary rock
realize that he’s a legendary rock climber his fingerprints are all over
climber his fingerprints are all over
climber his fingerprints are all over the planet like he’s done first ascents
the planet like he’s done first ascents
the planet like he’s done first ascents everywhere and he’s really well known
everywhere and he’s really well known
everywhere and he’s really well known for his devils tower climbing but I
for his devils tower climbing but I
for his devils tower climbing but I didn’t know that at the time so he
didn’t know that at the time so he
didn’t know that at the time so he convinced me to come up so I did and and
convinced me to come up so I did and and
convinced me to come up so I did and and the way it worked was Frank took me took
the way it worked was Frank took me took
the way it worked was Frank took me took three of us up the tower he led the
three of us up the tower he led the
three of us up the tower he led the first pitch then I would come up behind
first pitch then I would come up behind
first pitch then I would come up behind him and then I would photograph the
him and then I would photograph the
him and then I would photograph the writer as she came up and she’d never
writer as she came up and she’d never
writer as she came up and she’d never Rock climbed before he was taking us up
Rock climbed before he was taking us up
Rock climbed before he was taking us up the easiest climb on the tower and she
the easiest climb on the tower and she
the easiest climb on the tower and she didn’t have the right climbing go me she
didn’t have the right climbing go me she
didn’t have the right climbing go me she had like a bicycle helmet on so it
had like a bicycle helmet on so it
had like a bicycle helmet on so it looked kind of weird and they would try
looked kind of weird and they would try
looked kind of weird and they would try and could go up I was like shooting him
and could go up I was like shooting him
and could go up I was like shooting him and it was like butt shots you know and
and it was like butt shots you know and
and it was like butt shots you know and so the pictures weren’t really that
so the pictures weren’t really that
so the pictures weren’t really that great but I saw the potential is I
great but I saw the potential is I
great but I saw the potential is I hadn’t looked at climbing released
hadn’t looked at climbing released
hadn’t looked at climbing released through my camera up to that point so
through my camera up to that point so
through my camera up to that point so when I got home I called up a friend of
when I got home I called up a friend of
when I got home I called up a friend of mine I called my friend Brian he was the
mine I called my friend Brian he was the
mine I called my friend Brian he was the best climber I knew and I said man I
best climber I knew and I said man I
best climber I knew and I said man I want to go out and shoot some climbing
want to go out and shoot some climbing
want to go out and shoot some climbing photos and I and I had an idea of what I
photos and I and I had an idea of what I
photos and I and I had an idea of what I wanted to shoot I said there’s this
wanted to shoot I said there’s this
wanted to shoot I said there’s this bridge just outside the town and
bridge just outside the town and
bridge just outside the town and somebody’s bolted like river rocks to
somebody’s bolted like river rocks to
somebody’s bolted like river rocks to The Bling
The Bling
The Bling actual rocks with the bottom of this
actual rocks with the bottom of this
actual rocks with the bottom of this bridge and he knew exactly what I was
bridge and he knew exactly what I was
bridge and he knew exactly what I was talking about and so we went down and we
talking about and so we went down and we
talking about and so we went down and we took a photo of it well he had just
took a photo of it well he had just
took a photo of it well he had just gotten sponsored by a shoe company he
gotten sponsored by a shoe company he
gotten sponsored by a shoe company he was pretty good climber and so of course
was pretty good climber and so of course
was pretty good climber and so of course I printed him off like a 13 by 19 like
I printed him off like a 13 by 19 like
I printed him off like a 13 by 19 like here you go man as he said hey can I
here you go man as he said hey can I
here you go man as he said hey can I send this to the shoe company and I was
send this to the shoe company and I was
send this to the shoe company and I was like yeah go right ahead here’s another
like yeah go right ahead here’s another
like yeah go right ahead here’s another one for you if you’re sending that you
one for you if you’re sending that you
one for you if you’re sending that you know it’s just
know it’s just
know it’s just system on/off so he sends it out in like
system on/off so he sends it out in like
system on/off so he sends it out in like a week later I get a phone call and he
a week later I get a phone call and he
a week later I get a phone call and he said hey we just got this picture from
said hey we just got this picture from
said hey we just got this picture from Brian a big picture that they said they
Brian a big picture that they said they
Brian a big picture that they said they said we love it can we can we buy it for
said we love it can we can we buy it for
said we love it can we can we buy it for a net and I was like yeah it’d be
a net and I was like yeah it’d be
a net and I was like yeah it’d be amazing and I think they gave me like
amazing and I think they gave me like
amazing and I think they gave me like 300 bucks yes amazing right so I was
300 bucks yes amazing right so I was
300 bucks yes amazing right so I was like we got to go out again you know and
like we got to go out again you know and
like we got to go out again you know and so he yells at a spot he’ll watch
so he yells at a spot he’ll watch
so he yells at a spot he’ll watch sponsorship as well so we went out and
sponsorship as well so we went out and
sponsorship as well so we went out and we took some pictures and he sent them
we took some pictures and he sent them
we took some pictures and he sent them off to these guys and they bought an ad
off to these guys and they bought an ad
off to these guys and they bought an ad but they actually didn’t pay me they
but they actually didn’t pay me they
but they actually didn’t pay me they sent me 30 watches as famous 30 watches
sent me 30 watches as famous 30 watches
sent me 30 watches as famous 30 watches yeah make my dad still has a couple as a
yeah make my dad still has a couple as a
yeah make my dad still has a couple as a classic I just gave them away like what
classic I just gave them away like what
classic I just gave them away like what are you doing three watches whatever
are you doing three watches whatever
are you doing three watches whatever school is like it printed you know and
school is like it printed you know and
school is like it printed you know and I’ve seen the magazine’s was like this
I’ve seen the magazine’s was like this
I’ve seen the magazine’s was like this is this is really cool and the success
is this is really cool and the success
is this is really cool and the success rates amazing so Brian says to me he’s
rates amazing so Brian says to me he’s
rates amazing so Brian says to me he’s like you gotta meet this guy Andy Rader
like you gotta meet this guy Andy Rader
like you gotta meet this guy Andy Rader he’s like this dude’s a real rock
he’s like this dude’s a real rock
he’s like this dude’s a real rock climber right and he really was he’s
climber right and he really was he’s
climber right and he really was he’s living out of his truck he’s a classic
living out of his truck he’s a classic
living out of his truck he’s a classic dirtbag like any climbing industry
dirtbag like any climbing industry
dirtbag like any climbing industry they’re called dirt bags right people
they’re called dirt bags right people
they’re called dirt bags right people that are just like they’re just they
that are just like they’re just they
that are just like they’re just they don’t care what they have to do for work
don’t care what they have to do for work
don’t care what they have to do for work they live out of the truck they climb
they live out of the truck they climb
they live out of the truck they climb all the time and so Andy was one of
all the time and so Andy was one of
all the time and so Andy was one of those guys and he’s amazing so I went
those guys and he’s amazing so I went
those guys and he’s amazing so I went out with Andy and we shot one day and
out with Andy and we shot one day and
out with Andy and we shot one day and you know it’s ten pictures I’m sure I
you know it’s ten pictures I’m sure I
you know it’s ten pictures I’m sure I gave him a 13 by 13 he said he sent the
gave him a 13 by 13 he said he sent the
gave him a 13 by 13 he said he sent the digital scans I had to a magazine and I
digital scans I had to a magazine and I
digital scans I had to a magazine and I got a phone call and they bought a cover
got a phone call and they bought a cover
got a phone call and they bought a cover and I was just blown away I was like
and I was just blown away I was like
and I was just blown away I was like this is amazing I can’t believe like
this is amazing I can’t believe like
this is amazing I can’t believe like this is going really well well the two
this is going really well well the two
this is going really well well the two months after I mean Andy and I stayed in
months after I mean Andy and I stayed in
months after I mean Andy and I stayed in touch we were really excited about the
touch we were really excited about the
touch we were really excited about the whole cover thing and about two months
whole cover thing and about two months
whole cover thing and about two months later he called me and he said hey man
later he called me and he said hey man
later he called me and he said hey man I’m going to Southwest Utah did this
I’m going to Southwest Utah did this
I’m going to Southwest Utah did this amazing crack it’s a place people have
amazing crack it’s a place people have
amazing crack it’s a place people have kind of forgotten about it’s called the
kind of forgotten about it’s called the
kind of forgotten about it’s called the Cathedral and it’s this gigantic
Cathedral and it’s this gigantic
Cathedral and it’s this gigantic amphitheater you got to take a week off
amphitheater you got to take a week off
amphitheater you got to take a week off work calm down we’ll shoot photos it’ll
work calm down we’ll shoot photos it’ll
work calm down we’ll shoot photos it’ll be a lot of fun so I was like I’m in so
be a lot of fun so I was like I’m in so
be a lot of fun so I was like I’m in so I showed up he sees big gigantic arch
I showed up he sees big gigantic arch
I showed up he sees big gigantic arch and up to this point the climbing photos
and up to this point the climbing photos
and up to this point the climbing photos of a shooting there I wasn’t on a rope I
of a shooting there I wasn’t on a rope I
of a shooting there I wasn’t on a rope I was finding places I could hike up to a
was finding places I could hike up to a
was finding places I could hike up to a little clever ways like leaning over
little clever ways like leaning over
little clever ways like leaning over rock whatever I had to do though it was
rock whatever I had to do though it was
rock whatever I had to do though it was still kind of traumatized from the
still kind of traumatized from the
still kind of traumatized from the accident so I show up and there’s this
accident so I show up and there’s this
accident so I show up and there’s this rope hanging down the center of the
rope hanging down the center of the
rope hanging down the center of the amphitheater and he’s like yeah man here
amphitheater and he’s like yeah man here
amphitheater and he’s like yeah man here it is and I hung that rope for you it
it is and I hung that rope for you it
it is and I hung that rope for you it almost this like Oh
almost this like Oh
almost this like Oh and he’s like abuse like I’ve got these
and he’s like abuse like I’ve got these
and he’s like abuse like I’ve got these little robust centers show you how to
little robust centers show you how to
little robust centers show you how to use them you can climb up you can go up
use them you can climb up you can go up
use them you can climb up you can go up the rope you’ll be right where the
the rope you’ll be right where the
the rope you’ll be right where the action is well I come this far you know
action is well I come this far you know
action is well I come this far you know it’s like a 10-hour Drive and I wanted
it’s like a 10-hour Drive and I wanted
it’s like a 10-hour Drive and I wanted the photos right and it did look
the photos right and it did look
the photos right and it did look incredible and I knew you got to be
incredible and I knew you got to be
incredible and I knew you got to be where the shots are right and so I just
where the shots are right and so I just
where the shots are right and so I just sort of like sacked up and one up and
sort of like sacked up and one up and
sort of like sacked up and one up and got in position and he was right right
got in position and he was right right
got in position and he was right right where he needed to be and it was
where he needed to be and it was
where he needed to be and it was incredible watching and he just such an
incredible watching and he just such an
incredible watching and he just such an amazing look at these holds and steep
amazing look at these holds and steep
amazing look at these holds and steep climbing and and so for the better part
climbing and and so for the better part
climbing and and so for the better part like for seven days we shot pictures and
like for seven days we shot pictures and
like for seven days we shot pictures and I just bought my first digital camera at
I just bought my first digital camera at
I just bought my first digital camera at that point so at the end of the day we
that point so at the end of the day we
that point so at the end of the day we were downloading him and looking at him
were downloading him and looking at him
were downloading him and looking at him and getting excited and so this picture
and getting excited and so this picture
and getting excited and so this picture here on the left it’s actually the same
here on the left it’s actually the same
here on the left it’s actually the same move on the right we shot this picture
move on the right we shot this picture
move on the right we shot this picture on the left one day and that night we’re
on the left one day and that night we’re
on the left one day and that night we’re looking at it and he’s like what if you
looking at it and he’s like what if you
looking at it and he’s like what if you would hire we started formulating plans
would hire we started formulating plans
would hire we started formulating plans and it was like wow this is kind of the
and it was like wow this is kind of the
and it was like wow this is kind of the power of digital and seeing things right
power of digital and seeing things right
power of digital and seeing things right away and so we went and we had this
away and so we went and we had this
away and so we went and we had this fantastic week shooting at this really
fantastic week shooting at this really
fantastic week shooting at this really really incredible place so at the end of
really incredible place so at the end of
really incredible place so at the end of it I left Andy with a bunch of low res
it I left Andy with a bunch of low res
it I left Andy with a bunch of low res files and he sent him out to his
files and he sent him out to his
files and he sent him out to his sponsors into magazines and I’ve got
sponsors into magazines and I’ve got
sponsors into magazines and I’ve got another cover story and I sold on that
another cover story and I sold on that
another cover story and I sold on that and I was just like this is amazing and
and I was just like this is amazing and
and I was just like this is amazing and so through Andy I started meeting other
so through Andy I started meeting other
so through Andy I started meeting other people and I this domino effect happened
people and I this domino effect happened
people and I this domino effect happened this is all in 2004 and throughout the
this is all in 2004 and throughout the
this is all in 2004 and throughout the rest of 2004 I started meeting new
rest of 2004 I started meeting new
rest of 2004 I started meeting new people because Colorado is full of rock
people because Colorado is full of rock
people because Colorado is full of rock climbers and I started getting into this
climbers and I started getting into this
climbers and I started getting into this really fun community I started meeting
really fun community I started meeting
really fun community I started meeting people and they had sponsors they were
people and they had sponsors they were
people and they had sponsors they were really good and I started submitting
really good and I started submitting
really good and I started submitting pictures and things started getting
pictures and things started getting
pictures and things started getting published and they’re just so there’s so
published and they’re just so there’s so
published and they’re just so there’s so many great characters and this is my
many great characters and this is my
many great characters and this is my friend Chuck I met Chuck we went in shot
friend Chuck I met Chuck we went in shot
friend Chuck I met Chuck we went in shot and they had connections at these
and they had connections at these
and they had connections at these magazines I was starting to get them but
magazines I was starting to get them but
magazines I was starting to get them but they were kind of like slightly known
they were kind of like slightly known
they were kind of like slightly known entities and throughout that whole year
entities and throughout that whole year
entities and throughout that whole year is going out and shooting and sending
is going out and shooting and sending
is going out and shooting and sending stuff in it was great so at the end of
stuff in it was great so at the end of
stuff in it was great so at the end of the year it was actually around November
the year it was actually around November
the year it was actually around November of 2004 I get a phone call from my boss
of 2004 I get a phone call from my boss
of 2004 I get a phone call from my boss and he said you know we’re all getting
and he said you know we’re all getting
and he said you know we’re all getting laid off basically the entire team and
laid off basically the entire team and
laid off basically the entire team and he explained that we’re all going to get
he explained that we’re all going to get
he explained that we’re all going to get a severance package and it was kind of a
a severance package and it was kind of a
a severance package and it was kind of a hard thing I remember there was people
hard thing I remember there was people
hard thing I remember there was people you know they had much more
you know they had much more
you know they had much more responsibilities than me with ik
responsibilities than me with ik
responsibilities than me with ik families and it was like tough phone
families and it was like tough phone
families and it was like tough phone call but he mentioned severance back you
call but he mentioned severance back you
call but he mentioned severance back you know look how much it
know look how much it
know look how much it they explained it was like four months
they explained it was like four months
they explained it was like four months pay or something and if you sign
pay or something and if you sign
pay or something and if you sign something they give you a little extra
something they give you a little extra
something they give you a little extra rounds like yeah I’m in it so the cool
rounds like yeah I’m in it so the cool
rounds like yeah I’m in it so the cool thing about hewlett-packard is a great
thing about hewlett-packard is a great
thing about hewlett-packard is a great place to work I really enjoyed it but
place to work I really enjoyed it but
place to work I really enjoyed it but all of a sudden I just had this really
all of a sudden I just had this really
all of a sudden I just had this really great year and I was having so much fun
great year and I was having so much fun
great year and I was having so much fun I said this is my opportunity I’m going
I said this is my opportunity I’m going
I said this is my opportunity I’m going to take this money now I’m going to make
to take this money now I’m going to make
to take this money now I’m going to make it work I had just bought a house
it work I had just bought a house
it work I had just bought a house probably five months before so I had
probably five months before so I had
probably five months before so I had responsibilities in my life and so I
responsibilities in my life and so I
responsibilities in my life and so I looked at the money it’s the first time
looked at the money it’s the first time
looked at the money it’s the first time I looked at money I was like this is
I looked at money I was like this is
I looked at money I was like this is time and I did the math and I said it
time and I did the math and I said it
time and I did the math and I said it was maybe like $20,000 or something I
was maybe like $20,000 or something I
was maybe like $20,000 or something I know you know I just looked at it as a
know you know I just looked at it as a
know you know I just looked at it as a road map I’ve got this much time I got
road map I’ve got this much time I got
road map I’ve got this much time I got to pay my bills
to pay my bills
to pay my bills and I got in my car and I was like I’m
and I got in my car and I was like I’m
and I got in my car and I was like I’m going wherever the climbers are so in
going wherever the climbers are so in
going wherever the climbers are so in the wintertime you know January 1st was
the wintertime you know January 1st was
the wintertime you know January 1st was when I got you know that was the
when I got you know that was the
when I got you know that was the official date we got two months notice
official date we got two months notice
official date we got two months notice and then I left so January 1 I went to
and then I left so January 1 I went to
and then I left so January 1 I went to Southwest you talk if that’s where
Southwest you talk if that’s where
Southwest you talk if that’s where everybody’s going and I moved in with
everybody’s going and I moved in with
everybody’s going and I moved in with this guy okay this is Joe Haines we call
this guy okay this is Joe Haines we call
this guy okay this is Joe Haines we call them Kentucky Joe and he and his wife
them Kentucky Joe and he and his wife
them Kentucky Joe and he and his wife they property managed like an apartment
they property managed like an apartment
they property managed like an apartment complex and so a lot of climbers would
complex and so a lot of climbers would
complex and so a lot of climbers would just say there this was in Mesquite
just say there this was in Mesquite
just say there this was in Mesquite Nevada and it’s really slow time of year
Nevada and it’s really slow time of year
Nevada and it’s really slow time of year in Mesquite Nevada in the wintertime so
in Mesquite Nevada in the wintertime so
in Mesquite Nevada in the wintertime so they had all these extra rooms and they
they had all these extra rooms and they
they had all these extra rooms and they would just let us stay for free and it
would just let us stay for free and it
would just let us stay for free and it was like free internet free place to
was like free internet free place to
was like free internet free place to stay so like all the dirtbags would just
stay so like all the dirtbags would just
stay so like all the dirtbags would just like go stick it’s like he chose and he
like go stick it’s like he chose and he
like go stick it’s like he chose and he was as crazy as he looked right like he
was as crazy as he looked right like he
was as crazy as he looked right like he would like hunt squirrels and and he
would like hunt squirrels and and he
would like hunt squirrels and and he would can stew and he’d bring this
would can stew and he’d bring this
would can stew and he’d bring this through to the crag and by he was the
through to the crag and by he was the
through to the crag and by he was the crazy person but he was salt of the
crazy person but he was salt of the
crazy person but he was salt of the earth man he had great stories and you
earth man he had great stories and you
earth man he had great stories and you either loved him or hated him right he
either loved him or hated him right he
either loved him or hated him right he was either a total pariah or he was like
was either a total pariah or he was like
was either a total pariah or he was like I like this guy and I liked him I
I like this guy and I liked him I
I like this guy and I liked him I connected with Joe because he’s a little
connected with Joe because he’s a little
connected with Joe because he’s a little crazy and I had knew a lot of crazy
crazy and I had knew a lot of crazy
crazy and I had knew a lot of crazy people growing up and so with all the
people growing up and so with all the
people growing up and so with all the dirt bags in one area it was so much fun
dirt bags in one area it was so much fun
dirt bags in one area it was so much fun right we’re all more or less unemployed
right we’re all more or less unemployed
right we’re all more or less unemployed and I was lucky I got an assignment
and I was lucky I got an assignment
and I was lucky I got an assignment pretty quickly my first assignment up to
pretty quickly my first assignment up to
pretty quickly my first assignment up to this point everything I was shooting was
this point everything I was shooting was
this point everything I was shooting was on spec which means I would shoot it
on spec which means I would shoot it
on spec which means I would shoot it send it in hope for the best
send it in hope for the best
send it in hope for the best well I got a phone call from climbing
well I got a phone call from climbing
well I got a phone call from climbing magazine and they said we want to do a
magazine and they said we want to do a
magazine and they said we want to do a profile on Andy Rader so this is Andy
profile on Andy Rader so this is Andy
profile on Andy Rader so this is Andy here so for like a month we went on
here so for like a month we went on
here so for like a month we went on every day and we shot pictures and one
every day and we shot pictures and one
every day and we shot pictures and one day we had like a really bad like it was
day we had like a really bad like it was
day we had like a really bad like it was like three days of bad weather
like three days of bad weather
like three days of bad weather chillie and during that time I said we
chillie and during that time I said we
chillie and during that time I said we should go out and shoot a portrait
should go out and shoot a portrait
should go out and shoot a portrait because all the skateboard magazines I
because all the skateboard magazines I
because all the skateboard magazines I grew up reading there was always like a
grew up reading there was always like a
grew up reading there was always like a portrait of the guy we should try and do
portrait of the guy we should try and do
portrait of the guy we should try and do that for climbing magazine so he went
that for climbing magazine so he went
that for climbing magazine so he went out to the desert where there’s all this
out to the desert where there’s all this
out to the desert where there’s all this like junk and garbage we started
like junk and garbage we started
like junk and garbage we started shooting these like silly portraits
shooting these like silly portraits
shooting these like silly portraits right we started like coming up with all
right we started like coming up with all
right we started like coming up with all these different scenarios and like
these different scenarios and like
these different scenarios and like shooting shooting all these weird things
shooting shooting all these weird things
shooting shooting all these weird things and finding stuff and it was we were
and finding stuff and it was we were
and finding stuff and it was we were just like laughing taking these pictures
just like laughing taking these pictures
just like laughing taking these pictures and these pictures become quite
and these pictures become quite
and these pictures become quite important to me but I’ll get to that in
important to me but I’ll get to that in
important to me but I’ll get to that in a minute so we had all this fun shooting
a minute so we had all this fun shooting
a minute so we had all this fun shooting them right and sent you know sending the
them right and sent you know sending the
them right and sent you know sending the ones that worked and we ran the story
ones that worked and we ran the story
ones that worked and we ran the story and everything and it was great and I
and everything and it was great and I
and everything and it was great and I kept meeting new people that were down
kept meeting new people that were down
kept meeting new people that were down in the area and I just started shooting
in the area and I just started shooting
in the area and I just started shooting with them and sending pictures in all
with them and sending pictures in all
with them and sending pictures in all the time and for that whole year 2005 it
the time and for that whole year 2005 it
the time and for that whole year 2005 it was like 2004 but this time I was off
was like 2004 but this time I was off
was like 2004 but this time I was off the leash and I had these like financial
the leash and I had these like financial
the leash and I had these like financial whips kind of cracking behind me because
whips kind of cracking behind me because
whips kind of cracking behind me because I had this mortgage that I was not even
I had this mortgage that I was not even
I had this mortgage that I was not even at the house anymore but I was just like
at the house anymore but I was just like
at the house anymore but I was just like you know I had to make it work hustling
you know I had to make it work hustling
you know I had to make it work hustling and it was one of the most fun carefree
and it was one of the most fun carefree
and it was one of the most fun carefree years of my life going around with
years of my life going around with
years of my life going around with climbers to places I’ve never been
climbers to places I’ve never been
climbers to places I’ve never been crag to crag to crag stories camping so
crag to crag to crag stories camping so
crag to crag to crag stories camping so much fun best year of my life maybe so
much fun best year of my life maybe so
much fun best year of my life maybe so at the end of 2005 things had done well
at the end of 2005 things had done well
at the end of 2005 things had done well and I said in my heart of hearts I was
and I said in my heart of hearts I was
and I said in my heart of hearts I was like I just I got to do whatever I can
like I just I got to do whatever I can
like I just I got to do whatever I can to make this happen
to make this happen
to make this happen keep going so I had a friend his name’s
keep going so I had a friend his name’s
keep going so I had a friend his name’s Dave black he’s a incredible
Dave black he’s a incredible
Dave black he’s a incredible photographer kind of a legend and he he
photographer kind of a legend and he he
photographer kind of a legend and he he lived in Colorado Springs and and I was
lived in Colorado Springs and and I was
lived in Colorado Springs and and I was lucky enough to befriend Dave in 2005
lucky enough to befriend Dave in 2005
lucky enough to befriend Dave in 2005 and he was always someone I could lean
and he was always someone I could lean
and he was always someone I could lean on for advice and he called me at the
on for advice and he called me at the
on for advice and he called me at the beginning of 2006 and he said hey I just
beginning of 2006 and he said hey I just
beginning of 2006 and he said hey I just got off the phone with a friend of mine
got off the phone with a friend of mine
got off the phone with a friend of mine at the New York Times and he has a story
at the New York Times and he has a story
at the New York Times and he has a story he wants to do in you ray Colorado it’s
he wants to do in you ray Colorado it’s
he wants to do in you ray Colorado it’s about ice climbing and I recommended you
about ice climbing and I recommended you
about ice climbing and I recommended you you know do you want to do the job and I
you know do you want to do the job and I
you know do you want to do the job and I was like man absolutely paid work like
was like man absolutely paid work like
was like man absolutely paid work like yes he’s like cool we’ll expect the call
yes he’s like cool we’ll expect the call
yes he’s like cool we’ll expect the call man the guy’s name is Brad Smith so
man the guy’s name is Brad Smith so
man the guy’s name is Brad Smith so about an hour later Pete on my little
about an hour later Pete on my little
about an hour later Pete on my little flip phone it says that the caller ID
flip phone it says that the caller ID
flip phone it says that the caller ID says 1 1 1 1 1 it’s all one’s was really
says 1 1 1 1 1 it’s all one’s was really
says 1 1 1 1 1 it’s all one’s was really weird like this is either collection
weird like this is either collection
weird like this is either collection agency or Brad I’m taking it you know as
agency or Brad I’m taking it you know as
agency or Brad I’m taking it you know as I took the call and it’s Brad Smith New
I took the call and it’s Brad Smith New
I took the call and it’s Brad Smith New York Times I was it go and I said hey
York Times I was it go and I said hey
York Times I was it go and I said hey how’s it going Brad and he said I just
how’s it going Brad and he said I just
how’s it going Brad and he said I just got the phone with Dave and me
got the phone with Dave and me
got the phone with Dave and me tell me that you were interested in
tell me that you were interested in
tell me that you were interested in doing this story I looked at your
doing this story I looked at your
doing this story I looked at your website and luckily I had a website way
website and luckily I had a website way
website and luckily I had a website way back then because that’s what I did for
back then because that’s what I did for
back then because that’s what I did for Hewlett Packard so it’s a little ahead
Hewlett Packard so it’s a little ahead
Hewlett Packard so it’s a little ahead of the curve I had a little online
of the curve I had a little online
of the curve I had a little online portfolio so I looked at your website
portfolio so I looked at your website
portfolio so I looked at your website and I liked your work I see a lot of
and I liked your work I see a lot of
and I liked your work I see a lot of climbing photos out there I want to do a
climbing photos out there I want to do a
climbing photos out there I want to do a nice climbing story do you shoot ice
nice climbing story do you shoot ice
nice climbing story do you shoot ice climbing and I was like yeah no of
climbing and I was like yeah no of
climbing and I was like yeah no of course as you guys got no problem of
course as you guys got no problem of
course as you guys got no problem of course and he’s like all right cool man
course and he’s like all right cool man
course and he’s like all right cool man and dave says you’re good and he said
and dave says you’re good and he said
and dave says you’re good and he said okay so the story is you are a Colorado
okay so the story is you are a Colorado
okay so the story is you are a Colorado it’s a small mountain town and it’s a
it’s a small mountain town and it’s a
it’s a small mountain town and it’s a mountain that doesn’t have a ski resort
mountain that doesn’t have a ski resort
mountain that doesn’t have a ski resort but what they do have is they have this
but what they do have is they have this
but what they do have is they have this box canyon that winds through the
box canyon that winds through the
box canyon that winds through the through the town and they’ve got hoses
through the town and they’ve got hoses
through the town and they’ve got hoses that they’ve lined along the entire top
that they’ve lined along the entire top
that they’ve lined along the entire top of it and they spray water down at night
of it and they spray water down at night
of it and they spray water down at night and it builds up ice formations and it’s
and it builds up ice formations and it’s
and it builds up ice formations and it’s the only ice park like it in the planet
the only ice park like it in the planet
the only ice park like it in the planet and what I’m interested in is that this
and what I’m interested in is that this
and what I’m interested in is that this little ice park brings in about five
little ice park brings in about five
little ice park brings in about five million dollars of additional revenue to
million dollars of additional revenue to
million dollars of additional revenue to the town every winter so it’s a really
the town every winter so it’s a really
the town every winter so it’s a really great economic stimulus so I think
great economic stimulus so I think
great economic stimulus so I think there’s a really cool story there and
there’s a really cool story there and
there’s a really cool story there and I’m like cool so he sent me a bunch of
I’m like cool so he sent me a bunch of
I’m like cool so he sent me a bunch of pictures he’s you know things he wanted
pictures he’s you know things he wanted
pictures he’s you know things he wanted to see and he said the week I’m going to
to see and he said the week I’m going to
to see and he said the week I’m going to send you down at the very end of it they
send you down at the very end of it they
send you down at the very end of it they do a video like an international
do a video like an international
do a video like an international climbing competition so there’ll be a
climbing competition so there’ll be a
climbing competition so there’ll be a lot of people there to take pictures of
lot of people there to take pictures of
lot of people there to take pictures of but I’m not really interested in the
but I’m not really interested in the
but I’m not really interested in the competition I’m more interested in the
competition I’m more interested in the
competition I’m more interested in the economics of this place but you’ll have
economics of this place but you’ll have
economics of this place but you’ll have plenty of people to work with them like
plenty of people to work with them like
plenty of people to work with them like great I’m on my way so I went down and
great I’m on my way so I went down and
great I’m on my way so I went down and you know and as soon as I showed up it
you know and as soon as I showed up it
you know and as soon as I showed up it was really a special place I was kind of
was really a special place I was kind of
was really a special place I was kind of blown away so one of the pictures Bryden
blown away so one of the pictures Bryden
blown away so one of the pictures Bryden sent was like I want you to go down I
sent was like I want you to go down I
sent was like I want you to go down I want you to shoot straight up I want to
want you to shoot straight up I want to
want you to shoot straight up I want to see what it looks like looking out of
see what it looks like looking out of
see what it looks like looking out of the canyon so I get down there I know
the canyon so I get down there I know
the canyon so I get down there I know how to rappel I get down I like I have
how to rappel I get down I like I have
how to rappel I get down I like I have no crampons on and I’m like slipping
no crampons on and I’m like slipping
no crampons on and I’m like slipping around the ocean like whoo it was crazy
around the ocean like whoo it was crazy
around the ocean like whoo it was crazy they get down to the bottom and thank
they get down to the bottom and thank
they get down to the bottom and thank God I had a helmet as I just had
God I had a helmet as I just had
God I had a helmet as I just had befriended some stranger who was getting
befriended some stranger who was getting
befriended some stranger who was getting ready to go down and asked him if I
ready to go down and asked him if I
ready to go down and asked him if I could shoot his photo and as soon as he
could shoot his photo and as soon as he
could shoot his photo and as soon as he starts rappelling tonight top of me he
starts rappelling tonight top of me he
starts rappelling tonight top of me he knocks like all this ice on I get hit in
knocks like all this ice on I get hit in
knocks like all this ice on I get hit in the neck and I’m just like oh my god
the neck and I’m just like oh my god
the neck and I’m just like oh my god this is definitely not like rock
this is definitely not like rock
this is definitely not like rock climbing and I’m slipping around I’m
climbing and I’m slipping around I’m
climbing and I’m slipping around I’m doing it so I take the pictures and at
doing it so I take the pictures and at
doing it so I take the pictures and at the end of the day I had to transmit all
the end of the day I had to transmit all
the end of the day I had to transmit all my pictures to Brad and I’d never worked
my pictures to Brad and I’d never worked
my pictures to Brad and I’d never worked for a newspaper in my life right and at
for a newspaper in my life right and at
for a newspaper in my life right and at the end of the day I ascended my SELEX
the end of the day I ascended my SELEX
the end of the day I ascended my SELEX and then he’s going to call and give me
and then he’s going to call and give me
and then he’s going to call and give me feedback
feedback
feedback so the end of the day one one on and run
so the end of the day one one on and run
so the end of the day one one on and run Brad Smith hey man love the pictures
Brad Smith hey man love the pictures
Brad Smith hey man love the pictures this worked tomorrow I want I want to
this worked tomorrow I want I want to
this worked tomorrow I want I want to see what people had to commute how did
see what people had to commute how did
see what people had to commute how did they get through the ice parks I’d go
they get through the ice parks I’d go
they get through the ice parks I’d go spend the day clock on clock shooting
spend the day clock on clock shooting
spend the day clock on clock shooting the way people kind of move around
the way people kind of move around
the way people kind of move around walking across ladders send the pictures
walking across ladders send the pictures
walking across ladders send the pictures in get a phone call that night get my
in get a phone call that night get my
in get a phone call that night get my marching orders for the next day alright
marching orders for the next day alright
marching orders for the next day alright I want you to shoot details it’s kind of
I want you to shoot details it’s kind of
I want you to shoot details it’s kind of a barbaric sport I want to see what it
a barbaric sport I want to see what it
a barbaric sport I want to see what it looks like when they kick the ice and
looks like when they kick the ice and
looks like when they kick the ice and hit the ice ax DX no problem
hit the ice ax DX no problem
hit the ice ax DX no problem super engaged editor I’ve never had an
super engaged editor I’ve never had an
super engaged editor I’ve never had an experience like this and so I’m going
experience like this and so I’m going
experience like this and so I’m going and getting in the shots get the phone
and getting in the shots get the phone
and getting in the shots get the phone call that night all the ones get my note
call that night all the ones get my note
call that night all the ones get my note marching orders for the next day and so
marching orders for the next day and so
marching orders for the next day and so this is the final day this is on Friday
this is the final day this is on Friday
this is the final day this is on Friday so I go out and said I want big
so I go out and said I want big
so I go out and said I want big landscape shots of climbers I just want
landscape shots of climbers I just want
landscape shots of climbers I just want to see them alone on these blue curtains
to see them alone on these blue curtains
to see them alone on these blue curtains of ice so I go out in the whole day
of ice so I go out in the whole day
of ice so I go out in the whole day that’s what I focus on
that’s what I focus on
that’s what I focus on so I transfer my pictures and then that
so I transfer my pictures and then that
so I transfer my pictures and then that night the last day of the shoot calls me
night the last day of the shoot calls me
night the last day of the shoot calls me up ones come in what’s up Brad at this
up ones come in what’s up Brad at this
up ones come in what’s up Brad at this point we’re like pretty good friends man
point we’re like pretty good friends man
point we’re like pretty good friends man he says hey man just got the shots
he says hey man just got the shots
he says hey man just got the shots really happy with the photos he did a
really happy with the photos he did a
really happy with the photos he did a really good job this week and I got some
really good job this week and I got some
really good job this week and I got some good news so we’re going to my my editor
good news so we’re going to my my editor
good news so we’re going to my my editor said we can run a full color section in
said we can run a full color section in
said we can run a full color section in the you know the whole sports section to
the you know the whole sports section to
the you know the whole sports section to give you two pages of color
give you two pages of color
give you two pages of color he’s like which is big deal we don’t do
he’s like which is big deal we don’t do
he’s like which is big deal we don’t do a lot of color in the paper am i cool
a lot of color in the paper am i cool
a lot of color in the paper am i cool and he said and I’ve got even better
and he said and I’ve got even better
and he said and I’ve got even better news we’re going to run one of the
news we’re going to run one of the
news we’re going to run one of the pictures on the front page and I didn’t
pictures on the front page and I didn’t
pictures on the front page and I didn’t really realize the gravity of this I was
really realize the gravity of this I was
really realize the gravity of this I was like that’s great man yeah I’m so glad
like that’s great man yeah I’m so glad
like that’s great man yeah I’m so glad you like the photos and I’d love to do a
you like the photos and I’d love to do a
you like the photos and I’d love to do a good job with you because I buy I need
good job with you because I buy I need
good job with you because I buy I need to work man I said he’s like he’s like
to work man I said he’s like he’s like
to work man I said he’s like he’s like he’s like yeah no totally it was such a
he’s like yeah no totally it was such a
he’s like yeah no totally it was such a good job in a and yeah you know
good job in a and yeah you know
good job in a and yeah you know congratulations man front page and I was
congratulations man front page and I was
congratulations man front page and I was like ya know I’m super excited man
like ya know I’m super excited man
like ya know I’m super excited man that’s great and I got all kinds of
that’s great and I got all kinds of
that’s great and I got all kinds of ideas so like I don’t know like his
ideas so like I don’t know like his
ideas so like I don’t know like his emailing to you and so for the third
emailing to you and so for the third
emailing to you and so for the third time he’s like it’s like yeah I keep
time he’s like it’s like yeah I keep
time he’s like it’s like yeah I keep getting the front page man and so now
getting the front page man and so now
getting the front page man and so now I’m like well he’s kind of making a big
I’m like well he’s kind of making a big
I’m like well he’s kind of making a big deal about this like I should show
deal about this like I should show
deal about this like I should show something gratitude and I was like yeah
something gratitude and I was like yeah
something gratitude and I was like yeah just man I’m so honored you know it’s
just man I’m so honored you know it’s
just man I’m so honored you know it’s fantastic and he’s laughing on the other
fantastic and he’s laughing on the other
fantastic and he’s laughing on the other under the line right this is like New
under the line right this is like New
under the line right this is like New Yorker guy and you clearly like look at
Yorker guy and you clearly like look at
Yorker guy and you clearly like look at this a greenhorn this guy doesn’t know
this a greenhorn this guy doesn’t know
this a greenhorn this guy doesn’t know what he’s doing and so he says to me he
what he’s doing and so he says to me he
what he’s doing and so he says to me he says Keith you know what the the
says Keith you know what the the
says Keith you know what the the circulation of the New York Times is
circulation of the New York Times is
circulation of the New York Times is internationally
internationally
internationally and I said man Brad I’ll be honest you
and I said man Brad I’ll be honest you
and I said man Brad I’ll be honest you know I I’ve seen it in Starbucks and
know I I’ve seen it in Starbucks and
know I I’ve seen it in Starbucks and Barnes and Noble and I and I’m sure you
Barnes and Noble and I and I’m sure you
Barnes and Noble and I and I’m sure you can get it anywhere in New York but I
can get it anywhere in New York but I
can get it anywhere in New York but I have no idea and he’s laughing I’m sure
have no idea and he’s laughing I’m sure
have no idea and he’s laughing I’m sure I’m on speakerphone at this point and
I’m on speakerphone at this point and
I’m on speakerphone at this point and he’s laughing and he tells me the number
he’s laughing and he tells me the number
he’s laughing and he tells me the number and it was huge at 50 million gigantic
and it was huge at 50 million gigantic
and it was huge at 50 million gigantic internationally and I’m like oh my god
internationally and I’m like oh my god
internationally and I’m like oh my god that’s crazy and so he’s like and he
that’s crazy and so he’s like and he
that’s crazy and so he’s like and he says man great job you should go get a
says man great job you should go get a
says man great job you should go get a drink on me you know it bill me for it
drink on me you know it bill me for it
drink on me you know it bill me for it and he saw and also I want you to stay
and he saw and also I want you to stay
and he saw and also I want you to stay on tomorrow and give me an extra day my
on tomorrow and give me an extra day my
on tomorrow and give me an extra day my fantastic so I go over and is the first
fantastic so I go over and is the first
fantastic so I go over and is the first time I get to hire an assistant I
time I get to hire an assistant I
time I get to hire an assistant I brought like a friend of mine so I’ve
brought like a friend of mine so I’ve
brought like a friend of mine so I’ve read over to my friend and I told him
read over to my friend and I told him
read over to my friend and I told him the good news of course pretending like
the good news of course pretending like
the good news of course pretending like I knew that that was good goodbye front
I knew that that was good goodbye front
I knew that that was good goodbye front page itself until we Wed we had a drink
page itself until we Wed we had a drink
page itself until we Wed we had a drink in the next day we went out we shot like
in the next day we went out we shot like
in the next day we went out we shot like the pick-up day and I remember walking
the pick-up day and I remember walking
the pick-up day and I remember walking into the park and people had the New
into the park and people had the New
into the park and people had the New York Times were looking at it talking
York Times were looking at it talking
York Times were looking at it talking about it is your eyes isn’t here
about it is your eyes isn’t here
about it is your eyes isn’t here who knows dude you shot it you know that
who knows dude you shot it you know that
who knows dude you shot it you know that into Who am I going to tell like I
into Who am I going to tell like I
into Who am I going to tell like I didn’t even know it was like New York
didn’t even know it was like New York
didn’t even know it was like New York Times some newspaper job I don’t know
Times some newspaper job I don’t know
Times some newspaper job I don’t know what I’m doing and I’ll make it like why
what I’m doing and I’ll make it like why
what I’m doing and I’ll make it like why they even get it here like New York size
they even get it here like New York size
they even get it here like New York size – so we finish up the shoe and it was
– so we finish up the shoe and it was
– so we finish up the shoe and it was amazing right so like a week later I get
amazing right so like a week later I get
amazing right so like a week later I get a phone call from this agency in
a phone call from this agency in
a phone call from this agency in Breckenridge Colorado and they said hey
Breckenridge Colorado and they said hey
Breckenridge Colorado and they said hey kid we saw your photos in the New York
kid we saw your photos in the New York
kid we saw your photos in the New York Times we really love them it’s a do you
Times we really love them it’s a do you
Times we really love them it’s a do you shoot snowboarding and I was like yeah
shoot snowboarding and I was like yeah
shoot snowboarding and I was like yeah of course I should come boarding like so
of course I should come boarding like so
of course I should come boarding like so what do you need they said well we’re
what do you need they said well we’re
what do you need they said well we’re doing an advertorial which is a word I’d
doing an advertorial which is a word I’d
doing an advertorial which is a word I’d never heard of and he said we’re going
never heard of and he said we’re going
never heard of and he said we’re going to have the art director call you will
to have the art director call you will
to have the art director call you will call she’ll call you in an hour and I
call she’ll call you in an hour and I
call she’ll call you in an hour and I was like great so I get a phone call or
was like great so I get a phone call or
was like great so I get a phone call or an hour from the Skrill Leslie and she
an hour from the Skrill Leslie and she
an hour from the Skrill Leslie and she says hey I’m really excited to work with
says hey I’m really excited to work with
says hey I’m really excited to work with you I love you you know I looked at your
you I love you you know I looked at your
you I love you you know I looked at your website I saw the pictures that you shot
website I saw the pictures that you shot
website I saw the pictures that you shot for the New York Times and she said the
for the New York Times and she said the
for the New York Times and she said the story we’re doing she’s like it’s an
story we’re doing she’s like it’s an
story we’re doing she’s like it’s an advertorial which means that we’re
advertorial which means that we’re
advertorial which means that we’re getting a bunch of products from
getting a bunch of products from
getting a bunch of products from different companies and we’re going to
different companies and we’re going to
different companies and we’re going to go out we’re going to shoot kind of like
go out we’re going to shoot kind of like
go out we’re going to shoot kind of like a people getting ready to go
a people getting ready to go
a people getting ready to go snowboarding and they’re going to be
snowboarding and they’re going to be
snowboarding and they’re going to be carrying all this equipment with them
carrying all this equipment with them
carrying all this equipment with them and walking around with it and it’s
and walking around with it and it’s
and walking around with it and it’s going to run in numerous magazines kind
going to run in numerous magazines kind
going to run in numerous magazines kind of like an ad but it reads like a story
of like an ad but it reads like a story
of like an ad but it reads like a story I was like great she’s like do you have
I was like great she’s like do you have
I was like great she’s like do you have any
any
any or at work and all I had was like the
or at work and all I had was like the
or at work and all I had was like the crazy portraits or like the guys throw
crazy portraits or like the guys throw
crazy portraits or like the guys throw on the bike and the fake weight off and
on the bike and the fake weight off and
on the bike and the fake weight off and other stuff but I was like yeah I do
other stuff but I was like yeah I do
other stuff but I was like yeah I do Jesus I’ll just send it over I just want
Jesus I’ll just send it over I just want
Jesus I’ll just send it over I just want to see it like so I emailed her that’s
to see it like so I emailed her that’s
to see it like so I emailed her that’s all I had so she calls back in like 20
all I had so she calls back in like 20
all I had so she calls back in like 20 minutes and she’s just dying laughing
minutes and she’s just dying laughing
minutes and she’s just dying laughing right she she’s just like I can’t
right she she’s just like I can’t
right she she’s just like I can’t believe you sent that you know she’s she
believe you sent that you know she’s she
believe you sent that you know she’s she sided in a way like I was kind of
sided in a way like I was kind of
sided in a way like I was kind of holding back on like my really good
holding back on like my really good
holding back on like my really good portrait and ice was a laugh i centered
portrait and ice was a laugh i centered
portrait and ice was a laugh i centered that but I was like but I got the job
that but I was like but I got the job
that but I was like but I got the job you know so we went out and for life for
you know so we went out and for life for
you know so we went out and for life for three days we just shot people like
three days we just shot people like
three days we just shot people like getting ready to go have fun and we
getting ready to go have fun and we
getting ready to go have fun and we never went and had fun we just basically
never went and had fun we just basically
never went and had fun we just basically shuts gentled and it was all new to me
shuts gentled and it was all new to me
shuts gentled and it was all new to me when we did this this story and it
when we did this this story and it
when we did this this story and it turned out great and it was a new
turned out great and it was a new
turned out great and it was a new connection and all of sudden I had this
connection and all of sudden I had this
connection and all of sudden I had this new client that was also local which was
new client that was also local which was
new client that was also local which was great so about two weeks later I get a
great so about two weeks later I get a
great so about two weeks later I get a phone call from this company in Canada
phone call from this company in Canada
phone call from this company in Canada and they said hey we saw you in here
and they said hey we saw you in here
and they said hey we saw you in here time story time but Canada you know they
time story time but Canada you know they
time story time but Canada you know they said we’ve got a catalog coming up we
said we’ve got a catalog coming up we
said we’ve got a catalog coming up we know you shoot rock-climbing and we got
know you shoot rock-climbing and we got
know you shoot rock-climbing and we got we got to shoot a lot of clothing as
we got to shoot a lot of clothing as
we got to shoot a lot of clothing as well you know do you shoot catalog some
well you know do you shoot catalog some
well you know do you shoot catalog some scores of like of course they shoot
scores of like of course they shoot
scores of like of course they shoot catalogs like yeah like you know and
catalogs like yeah like you know and
catalogs like yeah like you know and they asked me what my rate was I’d know
they asked me what my rate was I’d know
they asked me what my rate was I’d know what that meant you know and I but I had
what that meant you know and I but I had
what that meant you know and I but I had read somewhere that if someone else’s
read somewhere that if someone else’s
read somewhere that if someone else’s rate is you always ask it what’s your
rate is you always ask it what’s your
rate is you always ask it what’s your budget you know you put you you
budget you know you put you you
budget you know you put you you basically just like deflect the question
basically just like deflect the question
basically just like deflect the question so I knew poorly negotiated some kind of
so I knew poorly negotiated some kind of
so I knew poorly negotiated some kind of rate and I drove down to Las Vegas and
rate and I drove down to Las Vegas and
rate and I drove down to Las Vegas and we we shot this catalog and again I
we we shot this catalog and again I
we we shot this catalog and again I found myself taking pictures of people
found myself taking pictures of people
found myself taking pictures of people getting ready to go have fun you know
getting ready to go have fun you know
getting ready to go have fun you know but we never really got to have the fun
but we never really got to have the fun
but we never really got to have the fun but it was a whole new experience so a
but it was a whole new experience so a
but it was a whole new experience so a couple months after that my friend Chuck
couple months after that my friend Chuck
couple months after that my friend Chuck freiburger who I talked about earlier he
freiburger who I talked about earlier he
freiburger who I talked about earlier he was a budding filmmaker and he called me
was a budding filmmaker and he called me
was a budding filmmaker and he called me up and he said hey man I’m I’m going to
up and he said hey man I’m I’m going to
up and he said hey man I’m I’m going to South Africa this this summer and I want
South Africa this this summer and I want
South Africa this this summer and I want to make a film I’m gonna go for ten
to make a film I’m gonna go for ten
to make a film I’m gonna go for ten weeks and I want you to come along as
weeks and I want you to come along as
weeks and I want you to come along as the photographer and I’ve already talked
the photographer and I’ve already talked
the photographer and I’ve already talked to a couple magazines I’ve got a bunch
to a couple magazines I’ve got a bunch
to a couple magazines I’ve got a bunch of sponsors on board people want photos
of sponsors on board people want photos
of sponsors on board people want photos and you want to come I’m just like oh my
and you want to come I’m just like oh my
and you want to come I’m just like oh my god of course I want to come yeah I have
god of course I want to come yeah I have
god of course I want to come yeah I have to drive here if one which is amazing so
to drive here if one which is amazing so
to drive here if one which is amazing so that’s all I’m doing these days and I’ve
that’s all I’m doing these days and I’ve
that’s all I’m doing these days and I’ve never been in South Africa so may comes
never been in South Africa so may comes
never been in South Africa so may comes along we
along we
along we like I packed everything I had I was
like I packed everything I had I was
like I packed everything I had I was still shooting film cameras as well as
still shooting film cameras as well as
still shooting film cameras as well as the digital camera overloaded the car
the digital camera overloaded the car
the digital camera overloaded the car and off we went to South Africa and one
and off we went to South Africa and one
and off we went to South Africa and one of the first things we did was as we
of the first things we did was as we
of the first things we did was as we were you know where we were staying we
were you know where we were staying we
were you know where we were staying we kept seeing advertisements for this like
kept seeing advertisements for this like
kept seeing advertisements for this like Safari that was in the area like we’re
Safari that was in the area like we’re
Safari that was in the area like we’re in Africa but we have to go on Safari
in Africa but we have to go on Safari
in Africa but we have to go on Safari so we drove down I think it was
so we drove down I think it was
so we drove down I think it was collective ocean box safari camp and so
collective ocean box safari camp and so
collective ocean box safari camp and so we went down and it was really hacky it
we went down and it was really hacky it
we went down and it was really hacky it felt kind of weird there was like fences
felt kind of weird there was like fences
felt kind of weird there was like fences everywhere and it looked more like
everywhere and it looked more like
everywhere and it looked more like acreage and there was animals roaming
acreage and there was animals roaming
acreage and there was animals roaming around and we went into the entrance and
around and we went into the entrance and
around and we went into the entrance and we paid like our $10 or whatever and the
we paid like our $10 or whatever and the
we paid like our $10 or whatever and the first thing the guy says was he’s like
first thing the guy says was he’s like
first thing the guy says was he’s like hey you know what I have a young lion if
hey you know what I have a young lion if
hey you know what I have a young lion if you guys because we were telling them
you guys because we were telling them
you guys because we were telling them outside of you were to be their exec if
outside of you were to be their exec if
outside of you were to be their exec if you want to go into the pen you can pet
you want to go into the pen you can pet
you want to go into the pen you can pet her and I’m the birds got my glasses
her and I’m the birds got my glasses
her and I’m the birds got my glasses we’re sure we want to do that like yes
we’re sure we want to do that like yes
we’re sure we want to do that like yes oh wait let me go back as this video
oh wait let me go back as this video
oh wait let me go back as this video just plays and so this is the video of
just plays and so this is the video of
just plays and so this is the video of what happened in Daniel Keith just got
what happened in Daniel Keith just got
what happened in Daniel Keith just got clawed at it’s like a big kitty cat
clawed at it’s like a big kitty cat
clawed at it’s like a big kitty cat that’s claws that we get
income so of course this is a Shah right
income so of course this is a Shah right before the the animal jumped on me but
before the the animal jumped on me but
before the the animal jumped on me but the worst part about all my friends is
the worst part about all my friends is
the worst part about all my friends is laughing right like a lion discomfort on
laughing right like a lion discomfort on
laughing right like a lion discomfort on me and I was laughing too if you really
me and I was laughing too if you really
me and I was laughing too if you really listen to the clip that’s my reaction to
listen to the clip that’s my reaction to
listen to the clip that’s my reaction to death was like laughter right but for
death was like laughter right but for
death was like laughter right but for anyway the trip started right and it was
anyway the trip started right and it was
anyway the trip started right and it was it was the most fun ten weeks
it was the most fun ten weeks
it was the most fun ten weeks oh so fun carefree a motivated group
oh so fun carefree a motivated group
oh so fun carefree a motivated group every day someone was out doing some
every day someone was out doing some
every day someone was out doing some really cool rock climb and I got to just
really cool rock climb and I got to just
really cool rock climb and I got to just go along and take pictures and it didn’t
go along and take pictures and it didn’t
go along and take pictures and it didn’t matter what time of day there’s a full
matter what time of day there’s a full
matter what time of day there’s a full moon tomorrow night we should go out it
moon tomorrow night we should go out it
moon tomorrow night we should go out it was just motivation motivation my friend
was just motivation motivation my friend
was just motivation motivation my friend auntie Rae there was all the people I’ve
auntie Rae there was all the people I’ve
auntie Rae there was all the people I’ve been hanging out with for like the
been hanging out with for like the
been hanging out with for like the previous year and a half and and it was
previous year and a half and and it was
previous year and a half and and it was just so much fun and I got to shoot
just so much fun and I got to shoot
just so much fun and I got to shoot landscapes every morning I would get up
landscapes every morning I would get up
landscapes every morning I would get up early and South Africa to this day it’s
early and South Africa to this day it’s
early and South Africa to this day it’s probably my favorite country I
probably my favorite country I
probably my favorite country I absolutely love it it’s incredible place
absolutely love it it’s incredible place
absolutely love it it’s incredible place and I fell in love with bird photography
and I fell in love with bird photography
and I fell in love with bird photography there’s amazing animals down there and
there’s amazing animals down there and
there’s amazing animals down there and even the animals like try to like break
even the animals like try to like break
even the animals like try to like break into your cards oh it’s a crazy place
into your cards oh it’s a crazy place
into your cards oh it’s a crazy place right and at the end of the trip we
right and at the end of the trip we
right and at the end of the trip we actually did this great white shark
actually did this great white shark
actually did this great white shark breaching trip and this shark right here
breaching trip and this shark right here
breaching trip and this shark right here it’s actually you can see there’s a
it’s actually you can see there’s a
it’s actually you can see there’s a little fishing line here they would
little fishing line here they would
little fishing line here they would float like a decoy sail behind the boat
float like a decoy sail behind the boat
float like a decoy sail behind the boat early in the morning and then once the
early in the morning and then once the
early in the morning and then once the sharks kind of wake up it’s really
sharks kind of wake up it’s really
sharks kind of wake up it’s really basically basically dependent on seals
basically basically dependent on seals
basically basically dependent on seals there’s an island called Seal Island
there’s an island called Seal Island
there’s an island called Seal Island that’s like 30,000 seals and once the
that’s like 30,000 seals and once the
that’s like 30,000 seals and once the Sun comes up they go out to the sea to
Sun comes up they go out to the sea to
Sun comes up they go out to the sea to basically eat and we saw like this
basically eat and we saw like this
basically eat and we saw like this happened six times with real seals this
happened six times with real seals this
happened six times with real seals this right here is this the decoys it was an
right here is this the decoys it was an
right here is this the decoys it was an amazing experience Africa is so cool so
amazing experience Africa is so cool so
amazing experience Africa is so cool so it was a trip that left a real
it was a trip that left a real
it was a trip that left a real impression of my life and I started
impression of my life and I started
impression of my life and I started thinking like I want to do big
thinking like I want to do big
thinking like I want to do big expeditions I want to see more of the
expeditions I want to see more of the
expeditions I want to see more of the world like there’s just so much out
world like there’s just so much out
world like there’s just so much out there to see about four years ago
there to see about four years ago
there to see about four years ago a drink with a friend of mine Lukas
a drink with a friend of mine Lukas
a drink with a friend of mine Lukas Gilman and he said this while we’re
Gilman and he said this while we’re
Gilman and he said this while we’re talking he said man friendships with
talking he said man friendships with
talking he said man friendships with athletes is to the red carpet to seeing
athletes is to the red carpet to seeing
athletes is to the red carpet to seeing the world and it’s really true
the world and it’s really true
the world and it’s really true and I would I would even extend that and
and I would I would even extend that and
and I would I would even extend that and just say your friendships in general
just say your friendships in general
just say your friendships in general even with the people you work with the
even with the people you work with the
even with the people you work with the magazine side and the advertising side
magazine side and the advertising side
magazine side and the advertising side all of it these friendships they because
all of it these friendships they because
all of it these friendships they because they become your best friends right and
they become your best friends right and
they become your best friends right and especially with the athletes that you’re
especially with the athletes that you’re
especially with the athletes that you’re travelling with because you know who
travelling with because you know who
travelling with because you know who better to travel the world with than the
better to travel the world with than the
better to travel the world with than the people you love the most because things
people you love the most because things
people you love the most because things happen are getting lost in a country
happen are getting lost in a country
happen are getting lost in a country you’ve never been in before and you know
you’ve never been in before and you know
you’ve never been in before and you know climbing a big mountain and and going on
climbing a big mountain and and going on
climbing a big mountain and and going on a cool expedition with cool people you
a cool expedition with cool people you
a cool expedition with cool people you know these are experiences you want to
know these are experiences you want to
know these are experiences you want to do with people you love it’s such a fun
do with people you love it’s such a fun
do with people you love it’s such a fun life of exploration and it’s all made
life of exploration and it’s all made
life of exploration and it’s all made only better with people that are equally
only better with people that are equally
only better with people that are equally passionate about doing it as well and so
passionate about doing it as well and so
passionate about doing it as well and so as the years rolled on I continued to
as the years rolled on I continued to
as the years rolled on I continued to work heavily like in the editorial world
work heavily like in the editorial world
work heavily like in the editorial world of the different climbing magazines and
of the different climbing magazines and
of the different climbing magazines and go see different places and it was so
go see different places and it was so
go see different places and it was so much fun and the goofy portraits I
much fun and the goofy portraits I
much fun and the goofy portraits I started out shooting on early on turned
started out shooting on early on turned
started out shooting on early on turned into a column for for rock and ice
into a column for for rock and ice
into a column for for rock and ice magazine which is a favorite climbing
magazine which is a favorite climbing
magazine which is a favorite climbing magazine and for four years I shot just
magazine and for four years I shot just
magazine and for four years I shot just Illustrated portraits of the different
Illustrated portraits of the different
Illustrated portraits of the different you know colorful people in the climbing
you know colorful people in the climbing
you know colorful people in the climbing community and got to meet so many fun
community and got to meet so many fun
community and got to meet so many fun people and hear their stories in 2010
people and hear their stories in 2010
people and hear their stories in 2010 something happened in photography that
something happened in photography that
something happened in photography that really changed things and it was all of
really changed things and it was all of
really changed things and it was all of a sudden you could do video and you’re
a sudden you could do video and you’re
a sudden you could do video and you’re in your still camera and it sent ripples
in your still camera and it sent ripples
in your still camera and it sent ripples through the photography community in a
through the photography community in a
through the photography community in a lot of ways because there was in a lot
lot of ways because there was in a lot
lot of ways because there was in a lot of ways nervousness because there were
of ways nervousness because there were
of ways nervousness because there were people writing like on online blogs from
people writing like on online blogs from
people writing like on online blogs from different places that like video is
different places that like video is
different places that like video is going to replace photography in the
going to replace photography in the
going to replace photography in the future it’ll just be directors and
future it’ll just be directors and
future it’ll just be directors and people will pull still frames when they
people will pull still frames when they
people will pull still frames when they need photos and I’m reading all this
need photos and I’m reading all this
need photos and I’m reading all this like wow this is crazy I need to like
like wow this is crazy I need to like
like wow this is crazy I need to like learn how to shoot video and it was all
learn how to shoot video and it was all
learn how to shoot video and it was all like is all nonsense because they’re two
like is all nonsense because they’re two
like is all nonsense because they’re two completely different things which I’ll
completely different things which I’ll
completely different things which I’ll show here in just a second but it
show here in just a second but it
show here in just a second but it completely jumped on the bandwagon and I
completely jumped on the bandwagon and I
completely jumped on the bandwagon and I quickly fell in love shooting video is a
quickly fell in love shooting video is a
quickly fell in love shooting video is a lot of fun it’s a new way to tell a
lot of fun it’s a new way to tell a
lot of fun it’s a new way to tell a story it’s a completely different
story it’s a completely different
story it’s a completely different creative process and that’s the one
creative process and that’s the one
creative process and that’s the one thing I found out within probably the
thing I found out within probably the
thing I found out within probably the first like a couple months of playing
first like a couple months of playing
first like a couple months of playing with it when you’re shooting a photo a
with it when you’re shooting a photo a
with it when you’re shooting a photo a photo is about like an isolated moment
photo is about like an isolated moment
photo is about like an isolated moment something that when things come together
something that when things come together
something that when things come together something that’s interesting like we’ve
something that’s interesting like we’ve
something that’s interesting like we’ve all seen pictures where like somebody’s
all seen pictures where like somebody’s
all seen pictures where like somebody’s eyes are they blunt they’re blinking
eyes are they blunt they’re blinking
eyes are they blunt they’re blinking their eyes or something out there making
their eyes or something out there making
their eyes or something out there making a stupid face and you just like it’s a
a stupid face and you just like it’s a
a stupid face and you just like it’s a bad photo but if something looks good
bad photo but if something looks good
bad photo but if something looks good that you’re like that’s a fine photo
that you’re like that’s a fine photo
that you’re like that’s a fine photo right it’s the same in video you want to
right it’s the same in video you want to
right it’s the same in video you want to capture a sequence of events in
capture a sequence of events in
capture a sequence of events in photography you want to capture a moment
photography you want to capture a moment
photography you want to capture a moment right of action so this picture here
right of action so this picture here
right of action so this picture here this isn’t the best surfing photo but
this isn’t the best surfing photo but
this isn’t the best surfing photo but it’s at least interesting to look at
it’s at least interesting to look at
it’s at least interesting to look at right you got this guy he’s grabbing his
right you got this guy he’s grabbing his
right you got this guy he’s grabbing his surfboard he’s kind of making this car
surfboard he’s kind of making this car
surfboard he’s kind of making this car move so when I shot this photo I was
move so when I shot this photo I was
move so when I shot this photo I was also rolling video on a tripod next to
also rolling video on a tripod next to
also rolling video on a tripod next to me now watch the video clip
it’s pretty uneventful right the waves
it’s pretty uneventful right the waves are there waves aren’t that good
are there waves aren’t that good
are there waves aren’t that good basically what this guy was doing it was
basically what this guy was doing it was
basically what this guy was doing it was we’re doing this ad shoot and he was
we’re doing this ad shoot and he was
we’re doing this ad shoot and he was getting towed in and he was doing like
getting towed in and he was doing like
getting towed in and he was doing like tricks off of these waves he was meant
tricks off of these waves he was meant
tricks off of these waves he was meant to just like blast and do tricks well he
to just like blast and do tricks well he
to just like blast and do tricks well he came in a little late so he just kind of
came in a little late so he just kind of
came in a little late so he just kind of carved out of it but I shot a photo at
carved out of it but I shot a photo at
carved out of it but I shot a photo at the same time because I’m just rolling
the same time because I’m just rolling
the same time because I’m just rolling on like a locked-off video tripod so
on like a locked-off video tripod so
on like a locked-off video tripod so when you see it coupled with the photo
when you see it coupled with the photo
when you see it coupled with the photo again the video clip is nothing but
again the video clip is nothing but
again the video clip is nothing but there’s still like a little moment in
there’s still like a little moment in
there’s still like a little moment in there and that’s a photography is all
there and that’s a photography is all
there and that’s a photography is all about right finding that moment and
about right finding that moment and
about right finding that moment and video is all about finding a sequence
video is all about finding a sequence
video is all about finding a sequence that makes sense a clip that you can cut
that makes sense a clip that you can cut
that makes sense a clip that you can cut to until a better narrative story with
to until a better narrative story with
to until a better narrative story with later so it was good these good lessons
later so it was good these good lessons
later so it was good these good lessons to learn early on when I got really in
to learn early on when I got really in
to learn early on when I got really in the video it became the new editorial
the video it became the new editorial
the video it became the new editorial you know instead of going out and
you know instead of going out and
you know instead of going out and shooting a story for a climbing magazine
shooting a story for a climbing magazine
shooting a story for a climbing magazine was like let’s go make a film and it
was like let’s go make a film and it
was like let’s go make a film and it slowly learned it sort of turned into
slowly learned it sort of turned into
slowly learned it sort of turned into doing like bigger expeditions
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