you [Music]
I had the idea that there was one region
I had the idea that there was one region of this country that was still
of this country that was still
of this country that was still unexplored and that was the canyons of
unexplored and that was the canyons of
unexplored and that was the canyons of the green and grand and Colorado River
the green and grand and Colorado River
the green and grand and Colorado River we have an unknown Canyon yet to explore
we have an unknown Canyon yet to explore
we have an unknown Canyon yet to explore an unknown River to run what falls there
an unknown River to run what falls there
an unknown River to run what falls there may be we know not what walls rise over
may be we know not what walls rise over
may be we know not what walls rise over the river we know not what rocks beset
the river we know not what rocks beset
the river we know not what rocks beset the channel we know not and it wasn’t at
the channel we know not and it wasn’t at
the channel we know not and it wasn’t at all clear that we could survive it
[Music]
[Music] so tonight we’re going to be doing a
so tonight we’re going to be doing a
so tonight we’re going to be doing a little bit of time-traveling and as some
little bit of time-traveling and as some
little bit of time-traveling and as some of you know National Geographic is in
of you know National Geographic is in
of you know National Geographic is in the middle of celebrating its 125th year
the middle of celebrating its 125th year
the middle of celebrating its 125th year we were founded 125 years ago here in
we were founded 125 years ago here in
we were founded 125 years ago here in Washington DC at the Cosmo club by 33
Washington DC at the Cosmo club by 33
Washington DC at the Cosmo club by 33 men and one of those 33 men is our
men and one of those 33 men is our
men and one of those 33 men is our speaker tonight how crazy is that huh
also tomorrow 125 years ago we began the
also tomorrow 125 years ago we began the first lecture at National Geographic and
first lecture at National Geographic and
first lecture at National Geographic and that first lecture was presented by our
that first lecture was presented by our
that first lecture was presented by our speaker tonight John Wesley Powell so
speaker tonight John Wesley Powell so
speaker tonight John Wesley Powell so it’s a pleasure to have him here this
it’s a pleasure to have him here this
it’s a pleasure to have him here this evening won’t you please join me in
evening won’t you please join me in
evening won’t you please join me in giving a warm National Geographic
giving a warm National Geographic
giving a warm National Geographic welcome to John Wesley Powell
welcome to John Wesley Powell
welcome to John Wesley Powell [Applause]
good evening everyone
good evening everyone my friends call me Wes and my colleagues
my friends call me Wes and my colleagues
my friends call me Wes and my colleagues call me the major but the ute and Paiute
call me the major but the ute and Paiute
call me the major but the ute and Paiute Indians whose culture I studied for many
Indians whose culture I studied for many
Indians whose culture I studied for many many years called me copper Otts
many years called me copper Otts
many years called me copper Otts one arm gone copper aughts arm missing
one arm gone copper aughts arm missing
one arm gone copper aughts arm missing such as the directness of the Indian
such as the directness of the Indian
such as the directness of the Indian mind you know me of course for my great
mind you know me of course for my great
mind you know me of course for my great adventure down the green and Colorado
adventure down the green and Colorado
adventure down the green and Colorado rivers in 1869 and so let me say this
rivers in 1869 and so let me say this
rivers in 1869 and so let me say this much most of the important work that I
much most of the important work that I
much most of the important work that I did was right here in Washington I moved
did was right here in Washington I moved
did was right here in Washington I moved here in 1872 after my second Colorado
here in 1872 after my second Colorado
here in 1872 after my second Colorado journey and I helped to establish the
journey and I helped to establish the
journey and I helped to establish the cosmos Club in 1878 in fact the first
cosmos Club in 1878 in fact the first
cosmos Club in 1878 in fact the first meeting of the what would become the
meeting of the what would become the
meeting of the what would become the cosmos Club was in the parlor of my
cosmos Club was in the parlor of my
cosmos Club was in the parlor of my house not so very far from here and as
house not so very far from here and as
house not so very far from here and as you just heard and on January 13 1888 I
you just heard and on January 13 1888 I
you just heard and on January 13 1888 I was one of 33 men who gathered at the
was one of 33 men who gathered at the
was one of 33 men who gathered at the cosmos Club to create the National
cosmos Club to create the National
cosmos Club to create the National Geographic Society I grew up in Ohio my
Geographic Society I grew up in Ohio my
Geographic Society I grew up in Ohio my father was a tailor and an itinerant
father was a tailor and an itinerant
father was a tailor and an itinerant Methodist preacher and part-time farmer
Methodist preacher and part-time farmer
Methodist preacher and part-time farmer and generally speaking of fail here and
and generally speaking of fail here and
and generally speaking of fail here and he expected me to become a farmer too
he expected me to become a farmer too
he expected me to become a farmer too but that did not in any way appeal to me
but that did not in any way appeal to me
but that did not in any way appeal to me I don’t know what I would have done if
I don’t know what I would have done if
I don’t know what I would have done if it hadn’t been for the Civil War but the
it hadn’t been for the Civil War but the
it hadn’t been for the Civil War but the minute had happened I joined the
minute had happened I joined the
minute had happened I joined the volunteer infantry and served in a range
volunteer infantry and served in a range
volunteer infantry and served in a range of different places but at the Battle of
of different places but at the Battle of
of different places but at the Battle of Shiloh on April 6th 1862 I was leading a
Shiloh on April 6th 1862 I was leading a
Shiloh on April 6th 1862 I was leading a charge over a ridge and a nun
charge over a ridge and a nun
charge over a ridge and a nun spent or nearly spent miniball that’s a
spent or nearly spent miniball that’s a
spent or nearly spent miniball that’s a lead ball with a conical top struck me
lead ball with a conical top struck me
lead ball with a conical top struck me just below the elbow and shattered it
just below the elbow and shattered it
just below the elbow and shattered it two days later without anesthetic of any
two days later without anesthetic of any
two days later without anesthetic of any sort they sawed off my arm just below
sort they sawed off my arm just below
sort they sawed off my arm just below the elbow that hurt it never stopped me
the elbow that hurt it never stopped me
the elbow that hurt it never stopped me from doing a single thing in the course
from doing a single thing in the course
from doing a single thing in the course of my life
of my life
of my life now after the Civil War the country was
now after the Civil War the country was
now after the Civil War the country was a different place and there was a lot of
a different place and there was a lot of
a different place and there was a lot of disillusionment in the East and there
disillusionment in the East and there
disillusionment in the East and there was a sort of a sense that maybe there
was a sort of a sense that maybe there
was a sort of a sense that maybe there was a new beginning out west I had the
was a new beginning out west I had the
was a new beginning out west I had the idea that there was one region of this
idea that there was one region of this
idea that there was one region of this country that was still unexplored and
country that was still unexplored and
country that was still unexplored and that was the canyons of the green and
that was the canyons of the green and
that was the canyons of the green and grand and Colorado River and so I
grand and Colorado River and so I
grand and Colorado River and so I decided to put together a small
decided to put together a small
decided to put together a small exploring party and see if it could be
exploring party and see if it could be
exploring party and see if it could be done and we we met at Green River
done and we we met at Green River
done and we we met at Green River Station and we embarked on our journey
Station and we embarked on our journey
Station and we embarked on our journey down the green Colorado on the 24th of
down the green Colorado on the 24th of
down the green Colorado on the 24th of May 1869 there were 10 of us to start
May 1869 there were 10 of us to start
May 1869 there were 10 of us to start none of them were scientists I didn’t
none of them were scientists I didn’t
none of them were scientists I didn’t really even have scientific credentials
really even have scientific credentials
really even have scientific credentials at the time for boats enough provisions
at the time for boats enough provisions
at the time for boats enough provisions for about 10 months and off we went into
for about 10 months and off we went into
for about 10 months and off we went into the the unknown on May 24th 1869 I can’t
the the unknown on May 24th 1869 I can’t
the the unknown on May 24th 1869 I can’t tell you all of the stories of our
tell you all of the stories of our
tell you all of the stories of our adventure but I can give you I think a
adventure but I can give you I think a
adventure but I can give you I think a flavor of it first about the depths and
flavor of it first about the depths and
flavor of it first about the depths and we started it a flat place and we would
we started it a flat place and we would
we started it a flat place and we would go down a thousand feet into the earth
go down a thousand feet into the earth
go down a thousand feet into the earth and then 3,000 feet and eventually in
and then 3,000 feet and eventually in
and then 3,000 feet and eventually in the Grand Canyon
the Grand Canyon
the Grand Canyon were 6,000 feet into the bowels of the
were 6,000 feet into the bowels of the
were 6,000 feet into the bowels of the earth in a lecture that I gave when I
earth in a lecture that I gave when I
earth in a lecture that I gave when I came back I said it would be as if there
came back I said it would be as if there
came back I said it would be as if there were a street like Broadway in New York
were a street like Broadway in New York
were a street like Broadway in New York and there were skyscrapers on either
and there were skyscrapers on either
and there were skyscrapers on either side of that Street and they were 200
side of that Street and they were 200
side of that Street and they were 200 stories high for 600 miles that’s what
stories high for 600 miles that’s what
stories high for 600 miles that’s what it felt like it was glorious
it felt like it was glorious
it felt like it was glorious you know every time we came around to
you know every time we came around to
you know every time we came around to bend in the river we were seeing
bend in the river we were seeing
bend in the river we were seeing something that nobody had ever seen
something that nobody had ever seen
something that nobody had ever seen before we had no idea what to expect
before we had no idea what to expect
before we had no idea what to expect that’s the nature of exploration isn’t
that’s the nature of exploration isn’t
that’s the nature of exploration isn’t it two weeks into the excursion in the
it two weeks into the excursion in the
it two weeks into the excursion in the canyon of lador we had disaster I had
canyon of lador we had disaster I had
canyon of lador we had disaster I had developed a series of flag and hand
developed a series of flag and hand
developed a series of flag and hand signals in the pilot boat and if I made
signals in the pilot boat and if I made
signals in the pilot boat and if I made a certain sort of signal than the men
a certain sort of signal than the men
a certain sort of signal than the men were to get to shore and we would
were to get to shore and we would
were to get to shore and we would recognize her and maybe portage or line
recognize her and maybe portage or line
recognize her and maybe portage or line down the boats or see if there was a way
down the boats or see if there was a way
down the boats or see if there was a way to thread our way through the rapids but
to thread our way through the rapids but
to thread our way through the rapids but for some reason three of the boats came
for some reason three of the boats came
for some reason three of the boats came in to shore but the no name the fourth
in to shore but the no name the fourth
in to shore but the no name the fourth of the boats did not get to shore there
of the boats did not get to shore there
of the boats did not get to shore there was a long dispute later about what had
was a long dispute later about what had
was a long dispute later about what had happened and maybe that they didn’t see
happened and maybe that they didn’t see
happened and maybe that they didn’t see the signal it may be that they ignored
the signal it may be that they ignored
the signal it may be that they ignored it they said that the boat was so
it they said that the boat was so
it they said that the boat was so waterlogged that they were bailing and
waterlogged that they were bailing and
waterlogged that they were bailing and didn’t see anything but whatever it was
didn’t see anything but whatever it was
didn’t see anything but whatever it was that fourth unfortunate boat the no-name
that fourth unfortunate boat the no-name
that fourth unfortunate boat the no-name went over the first rapid and recovered
went over the first rapid and recovered
went over the first rapid and recovered well enough and then it struck a rock
well enough and then it struck a rock
well enough and then it struck a rock sideways and split in two the men were
sideways and split in two the men were
sideways and split in two the men were thrown from it and most most likely
thrown from it and most most likely
thrown from it and most most likely would have drowned if they hadn’t washed
would have drowned if they hadn’t washed
would have drowned if they hadn’t washed up on a little sandbar in the middle of
up on a little sandbar in the middle of
up on a little sandbar in the middle of the river Frank Goodman the florid
the river Frank Goodman the florid
the river Frank Goodman the florid Englishman found a rock and he was
Englishman found a rock and he was
Englishman found a rock and he was holding on to it for dear life well we
holding on to it for dear life well we
holding on to it for dear life well we rescued them
rescued them
rescued them but now the no-name was gone
but now the no-name was gone
but now the no-name was gone and with it all the personal effects of
and with it all the personal effects of
and with it all the personal effects of the three men in the boat or Milland
the three men in the boat or Milland
the three men in the boat or Milland Seneca Holland and Frank Goodman their
Seneca Holland and Frank Goodman their
Seneca Holland and Frank Goodman their clothing or personal kits Foley a third
clothing or personal kits Foley a third
clothing or personal kits Foley a third of our provisions including food rifles
of our provisions including food rifles
of our provisions including food rifles and
and
and and scientific instruments were now lost
and scientific instruments were now lost
and scientific instruments were now lost in fact in searching through the other
in fact in searching through the other
in fact in searching through the other three boats we discovered that for some
three boats we discovered that for some
three boats we discovered that for some unknown reason we had packed all of the
unknown reason we had packed all of the
unknown reason we had packed all of the thermometers and barometers in the No
thermometers and barometers in the No
thermometers and barometers in the No Name now we had very little pretensions
Name now we had very little pretensions
Name now we had very little pretensions to real science but all of them were now
to real science but all of them were now
to real science but all of them were now gone with the barometer you can
gone with the barometer you can
gone with the barometer you can determine the the altitude above camp of
determine the the altitude above camp of
determine the the altitude above camp of the cliffs and the thermometers would be
the cliffs and the thermometers would be
the cliffs and the thermometers would be useful in AI that night I despaired I
useful in AI that night I despaired I
useful in AI that night I despaired I thought I might leave the expedition and
thought I might leave the expedition and
thought I might leave the expedition and go overland to Salt Lake and bring back
go overland to Salt Lake and bring back
go overland to Salt Lake and bring back more barometers and see if we could
more barometers and see if we could
more barometers and see if we could piece it back together but it was was a
piece it back together but it was was a
piece it back together but it was was a time of great gloom a third of our
time of great gloom a third of our
time of great gloom a third of our provisions just two weeks into the
provisions just two weeks into the
provisions just two weeks into the expedition the next morning after a good
expedition the next morning after a good
expedition the next morning after a good sleep we discovered that the no name at
sleep we discovered that the no name at
sleep we discovered that the no name at least part of the hull had lodged
least part of the hull had lodged
least part of the hull had lodged against some rocks on the other side of
against some rocks on the other side of
against some rocks on the other side of the river and so Jack Sumner and another
the river and so Jack Sumner and another
the river and so Jack Sumner and another man said that they would be willing to
man said that they would be willing to
man said that they would be willing to take the Emma Deane the pilot boat and
take the Emma Deane the pilot boat and
take the Emma Deane the pilot boat and see if they can go over there and
see if they can go over there and
see if they can go over there and determine if anything had been saved and
determine if anything had been saved and
determine if anything had been saved and at some risk to themselves they made
at some risk to themselves they made
at some risk to themselves they made their way across the rapids and to the
their way across the rapids and to the
their way across the rapids and to the wreckage and you have to understand that
wreckage and you have to understand that
wreckage and you have to understand that when you’re in the canyons you can’t
when you’re in the canyons you can’t
when you’re in the canyons you can’t hear a thing it’s like the sound of ten
hear a thing it’s like the sound of ten
hear a thing it’s like the sound of ten freight trains going by a close
freight trains going by a close
freight trains going by a close proximity and so we could it was a
proximity and so we could it was a
proximity and so we could it was a pantomime there they got to the hull of
pantomime there they got to the hull of
pantomime there they got to the hull of the no-name and they searched around it
the no-name and they searched around it
the no-name and they searched around it for all then they held up a package and
for all then they held up a package and
for all then they held up a package and it was the barometers and so we were
it was the barometers and so we were
it was the barometers and so we were saved as a as a scientific expedition
saved as a as a scientific expedition
saved as a as a scientific expedition and then they dug around some more than
and then they dug around some more than
and then they dug around some more than they were dancing and glee and I had no
they were dancing and glee and I had no
they were dancing and glee and I had no idea that their commitment to science
idea that their commitment to science
idea that their commitment to science was what it was but it turns out that
was what it was but it turns out that
was what it was but it turns out that they had secreted a keg of whiskey
they had secreted a keg of whiskey
they had secreted a keg of whiskey in the no name I’m a teat although I had
in the no name I’m a teat although I had
in the no name I’m a teat although I had forbidden whiskey on this tour
forbidden whiskey on this tour
forbidden whiskey on this tour they had secreted a keg and it was
they had secreted a keg and it was
they had secreted a keg and it was intact so when they got back I made an
intact so when they got back I made an
intact so when they got back I made an executive decision decided to call that
executive decision decided to call that
executive decision decided to call that whiskey medicinal but now we crowded
whiskey medicinal but now we crowded
whiskey medicinal but now we crowded into the three remaining boats and moved
into the three remaining boats and moved
into the three remaining boats and moved on chastened by the river a few days
on chastened by the river a few days
on chastened by the river a few days later just at the end of June 1869 we
later just at the end of June 1869 we
later just at the end of June 1869 we came to the mouth of the winter Creek
came to the mouth of the winter Creek
came to the mouth of the winter Creek and if you follow that Creek back up
and if you follow that Creek back up
and if you follow that Creek back up towards the west you come to the Uintah
towards the west you come to the Uintah
towards the west you come to the Uintah Indian agency and I walked out to post
Indian agency and I walked out to post
Indian agency and I walked out to post some letters and a couple amendment with
some letters and a couple amendment with
some letters and a couple amendment with me including Frank Goodman and when it
me including Frank Goodman and when it
me including Frank Goodman and when it was time to turn back he said I’ve had
was time to turn back he said I’ve had
was time to turn back he said I’ve had enough
enough
enough and so one member of the expedition had
and so one member of the expedition had
and so one member of the expedition had now retired we were sorry to see him go
now retired we were sorry to see him go
now retired we were sorry to see him go but with our reduced provisions and just
but with our reduced provisions and just
but with our reduced provisions and just three boats that actually made a kind of
three boats that actually made a kind of
three boats that actually made a kind of sense and so on we went eventually we
sense and so on we went eventually we
sense and so on we went eventually we came to the confluence of the Grand and
came to the confluence of the Grand and
came to the confluence of the Grand and the green which forms the Colorado
the green which forms the Colorado
the green which forms the Colorado proper there’s no way that I can
proper there’s no way that I can
proper there’s no way that I can describe it all I can say is that the
describe it all I can say is that the
describe it all I can say is that the canyons are so deeply incised there that
canyons are so deeply incised there that
canyons are so deeply incised there that when you look up you see a kind of a
when you look up you see a kind of a
when you look up you see a kind of a quarry but not a quarry where castles
quarry but not a quarry where castles
quarry but not a quarry where castles are made a quarry where mountains could
are made a quarry where mountains could
are made a quarry where mountains could be lifted out from the rocks and the
be lifted out from the rocks and the
be lifted out from the rocks and the cliffs are so high that it’s not the
cliffs are so high that it’s not the
cliffs are so high that it’s not the kind of place where you would see
kind of place where you would see
kind of place where you would see swallows having their nests partway up
swallows having their nests partway up
swallows having their nests partway up you’d see Eagles and those Eagles would
you’d see Eagles and those Eagles would
you’d see Eagles and those Eagles would disappear from sight before they reach
disappear from sight before they reach
disappear from sight before they reach the summit it’s one of the most amazing
the summit it’s one of the most amazing
the summit it’s one of the most amazing places on earth and it’s a geologists
places on earth and it’s a geologists
places on earth and it’s a geologists dream you know in England geology is
dream you know in England geology is
dream you know in England geology is difficult because it’s all covered with
difficult because it’s all covered with
difficult because it’s all covered with Verger but here the country is exposed
Verger but here the country is exposed
Verger but here the country is exposed because of the aridity and Earth reveals
because of the aridity and Earth reveals
because of the aridity and Earth reveals its skeleton
its skeleton
its skeleton and it’s spine and it’s it’s entablature
and it’s spine and it’s it’s entablature
and it’s spine and it’s it’s entablature it’s a geologists paradise our
it’s a geologists paradise our
it’s a geologists paradise our provisions by now were were rotten the
provisions by now were were rotten the
provisions by now were were rotten the flower was sour the bacon was molded
flower was sour the bacon was molded
flower was sour the bacon was molded there was nothing good to eat and
there was nothing good to eat and
there was nothing good to eat and shortly after the disaster with the
shortly after the disaster with the
shortly after the disaster with the no-name we had been making dinner on a
no-name we had been making dinner on a
no-name we had been making dinner on a little spot of sand at the beach and
little spot of sand at the beach and
little spot of sand at the beach and unfortunately Hawkins had caught the
unfortunately Hawkins had caught the
unfortunately Hawkins had caught the trees on fire right there they burned
trees on fire right there they burned
trees on fire right there they burned down the camp and we got singed eyebrows
down the camp and we got singed eyebrows
down the camp and we got singed eyebrows and clothes burned and we scrambled into
and clothes burned and we scrambled into
and clothes burned and we scrambled into the boats and went downriver and Hawkins
the boats and went downriver and Hawkins
the boats and went downriver and Hawkins gathered up the cooking kit as best he
gathered up the cooking kit as best he
gathered up the cooking kit as best he could and when he got to the boat he
could and when he got to the boat he
could and when he got to the boat he tripped and lost almost all of it in the
tripped and lost almost all of it in the
tripped and lost almost all of it in the river and so now we have spoiled food
river and so now we have spoiled food
river and so now we have spoiled food that we’re cooking on one or two
that we’re cooking on one or two
that we’re cooking on one or two miserable pans and that’s about that
miserable pans and that’s about that
miserable pans and that’s about that point that we realized that we were we
point that we realized that we were we
point that we realized that we were we were in a in a race for life here you
were in a in a race for life here you
were in a in a race for life here you can’t really get out of these canyons we
can’t really get out of these canyons we
can’t really get out of these canyons we had planned to hunt there was not much
had planned to hunt there was not much
had planned to hunt there was not much to hunt the bighorn sheep or high up and
to hunt the bighorn sheep or high up and
to hunt the bighorn sheep or high up and very skittish there are almost no fish
very skittish there are almost no fish
very skittish there are almost no fish in these rivers and the fish that we
in these rivers and the fish that we
in these rivers and the fish that we pulled out were like eating sand paper
pulled out were like eating sand paper
pulled out were like eating sand paper that were pin cushions and so we were
that were pin cushions and so we were
that were pin cushions and so we were beginning to wonder whether we would
beginning to wonder whether we would
beginning to wonder whether we would survive this expedition and on and on we
survive this expedition and on and on we
survive this expedition and on and on we went well finally on August 6th we came
went well finally on August 6th we came
went well finally on August 6th we came to the mouth of the Little Colorado
to the mouth of the Little Colorado
to the mouth of the Little Colorado River if you know that part of the world
River if you know that part of the world
River if you know that part of the world that’s really the beginning of the Grand
that’s really the beginning of the Grand
that’s really the beginning of the Grand Canyon for wooden boats now reduced to
Canyon for wooden boats now reduced to
Canyon for wooden boats now reduced to three all of them battered so much that
three all of them battered so much that
three all of them battered so much that we’re caulking them almost every day the
we’re caulking them almost every day the
we’re caulking them almost every day the men are mostly naked living in rags our
men are mostly naked living in rags our
men are mostly naked living in rags our shoes are gone the food is is rancid and
shoes are gone the food is is rancid and
shoes are gone the food is is rancid and inadequate
inadequate
inadequate were exhausted mentally and physically
we were about to begin the most
we were about to begin the most dangerous and challenging part of the
dangerous and challenging part of the
dangerous and challenging part of the journey but we were spent now if we’d
journey but we were spent now if we’d
journey but we were spent now if we’d gone out at that point and regrouped and
gone out at that point and regrouped and
gone out at that point and regrouped and put some flesh back on our bones and
put some flesh back on our bones and
put some flesh back on our bones and written some letters home and relaxed a
written some letters home and relaxed a
written some letters home and relaxed a little come back we might have been able
little come back we might have been able
little come back we might have been able to do this with some some ecstasy but by
to do this with some some ecstasy but by
to do this with some some ecstasy but by the time we reached the portal of the
the time we reached the portal of the
the time we reached the portal of the Grand Canyon we were in a pretty
Grand Canyon we were in a pretty
Grand Canyon we were in a pretty desperate state and the rumblings of
desperate state and the rumblings of
desperate state and the rumblings of discontentment were beginning to reach
discontentment were beginning to reach
discontentment were beginning to reach even me here’s what I wrote we are now
even me here’s what I wrote we are now
even me here’s what I wrote we are now ready to begin on our way down the great
ready to begin on our way down the great
ready to begin on our way down the great unknown our our boats tied to a common
unknown our our boats tied to a common
unknown our our boats tied to a common stake chafe each other as they are
stake chafe each other as they are
stake chafe each other as they are tossed by the fretful river they ride
tossed by the fretful river they ride
tossed by the fretful river they ride high and buoyant for their loads are
high and buoyant for their loads are
high and buoyant for their loads are lighter than we could desire we have but
lighter than we could desire we have but
lighter than we could desire we have but a month’s rations remaining our flower
a month’s rations remaining our flower
a month’s rations remaining our flower has all been recipt Adamas ketonet sieve
has all been recipt Adamas ketonet sieve
has all been recipt Adamas ketonet sieve the spoiled bacon has been dried and the
the spoiled bacon has been dried and the
the spoiled bacon has been dried and the worst of it boiled our few pounds of
worst of it boiled our few pounds of
worst of it boiled our few pounds of dried apples have been spread in the Sun
dried apples have been spread in the Sun
dried apples have been spread in the Sun and re shrunken to their normal bulk our
and re shrunken to their normal bulk our
and re shrunken to their normal bulk our sugar has long since melted and gone on
sugar has long since melted and gone on
sugar has long since melted and gone on its way down the river but we have a
its way down the river but we have a
its way down the river but we have a large bag of coffee the lightning of the
large bag of coffee the lightning of the
large bag of coffee the lightning of the boats has this one advantage they will
boats has this one advantage they will
boats has this one advantage they will ride the waves better and we shall have
ride the waves better and we shall have
ride the waves better and we shall have but little to carry in the event of a
but little to carry in the event of a
but little to carry in the event of a portage we are now three-quarters of a
portage we are now three-quarters of a
portage we are now three-quarters of a mile in the depths of the earth and the
mile in the depths of the earth and the
mile in the depths of the earth and the great river shrinks into insignificance
great river shrinks into insignificance
great river shrinks into insignificance as it tosses its angry angry waves at
as it tosses its angry angry waves at
as it tosses its angry angry waves at the walls and cliffs that rise to the
the walls and cliffs that rise to the
the walls and cliffs that rise to the world above its waves are but puny
world above its waves are but puny
world above its waves are but puny ripples and we but pygmies running up
ripples and we but pygmies running up
ripples and we but pygmies running up and down the sand
and down the sand
and down the sand or lost among the boulders we have an
or lost among the boulders we have an
or lost among the boulders we have an unknown Canyon yet to explore an unknown
unknown Canyon yet to explore an unknown
unknown Canyon yet to explore an unknown river to run what falls there may be we
river to run what falls there may be we
river to run what falls there may be we know not what walls rise over the river
know not what walls rise over the river
know not what walls rise over the river we know not what rocks beset the channel
we know not what rocks beset the channel
we know not what rocks beset the channel we know not how well the men talk is
we know not how well the men talk is
we know not how well the men talk is cheerfully as ever this morning
cheerfully as ever this morning
cheerfully as ever this morning guests are bandied about freely among
guests are bandied about freely among
guests are bandied about freely among them and yet to me the jests are ghastly
them and yet to me the jests are ghastly
them and yet to me the jests are ghastly and the cheer is somber even I the
and the cheer is somber even I the
and the cheer is somber even I the optimist begin to call the Grand Canyon
optimist begin to call the Grand Canyon
optimist begin to call the Grand Canyon our prison in terms of the magnificence
our prison in terms of the magnificence
our prison in terms of the magnificence of the scenery there’s nothing like it
of the scenery there’s nothing like it
of the scenery there’s nothing like it in the world its geological potential
in the world its geological potential
in the world its geological potential unmatched but we were now just hoping to
unmatched but we were now just hoping to
unmatched but we were now just hoping to survive you know Bradley thus our cast
survive you know Bradley thus our cast
survive you know Bradley thus our cast had written in his diary way back up at
had written in his diary way back up at
had written in his diary way back up at the canyon of lador I think all the way
the canyon of lador I think all the way
the canyon of lador I think all the way back at Flaming Gorge he had written
back at Flaming Gorge he had written
back at Flaming Gorge he had written today we have seen the worst rapid that
today we have seen the worst rapid that
today we have seen the worst rapid that we have ever been through and the worst
we have ever been through and the worst
we have ever been through and the worst that we are ever likely to see but he
that we are ever likely to see but he
that we are ever likely to see but he repeated that nineteen times
repeated that nineteen times
repeated that nineteen times he literally repeated that nineteen
he literally repeated that nineteen
he literally repeated that nineteen times in the course of this journey had
times in the course of this journey had
times in the course of this journey had we been told before we started that the
we been told before we started that the
we been told before we started that the Grand Canyon would contain the kinds of
Grand Canyon would contain the kinds of
Grand Canyon would contain the kinds of Rapids that it has we never would have
Rapids that it has we never would have
Rapids that it has we never would have tried it ever well finally on the 27th
tried it ever well finally on the 27th
tried it ever well finally on the 27th of August things fell apart we came to
of August things fell apart we came to
of August things fell apart we came to the worst rapid that any of us had ever
the worst rapid that any of us had ever
the worst rapid that any of us had ever seen and it wasn’t at all clear that we
seen and it wasn’t at all clear that we
seen and it wasn’t at all clear that we could survive it and so that day Aurra
could survive it and so that day Aurra
could survive it and so that day Aurra Mulholland came to me took me aside and
Mulholland came to me took me aside and
Mulholland came to me took me aside and said major
we can’t we can’t go on it’s it’s
we can’t we can’t go on it’s it’s suicide now to go on he said what good
suicide now to go on he said what good
suicide now to go on he said what good would it be for us to die now at this
would it be for us to die now at this
would it be for us to die now at this late stage of the expedition and lose
late stage of the expedition and lose
late stage of the expedition and lose everything what we should do is admit
everything what we should do is admit
everything what we should do is admit that we can’t do it not in our current
that we can’t do it not in our current
that we can’t do it not in our current condition and with these boats and we’ll
condition and with these boats and we’ll
condition and with these boats and we’ll climb the North Face of the canyon and
climb the North Face of the canyon and
climb the North Face of the canyon and we’ll find our way to some Mormon
we’ll find our way to some Mormon
we’ll find our way to some Mormon villages we’ll regroup and maybe come
villages we’ll regroup and maybe come
villages we’ll regroup and maybe come back and do it another time we can cash
back and do it another time we can cash
back and do it another time we can cash the boats but if we go on we’re all
the boats but if we go on we’re all
the boats but if we go on we’re all going to die oh I said if we try to
going to die oh I said if we try to
going to die oh I said if we try to climb out we’re probably going to die
climb out we’re probably going to die
climb out we’re probably going to die it’s not even clear you can climb out a
it’s not even clear you can climb out a
it’s not even clear you can climb out a mile up the North Face of the Grand
mile up the North Face of the Grand
mile up the North Face of the Grand Canyon I asked him who he spoke for and
Canyon I asked him who he spoke for and
Canyon I asked him who he spoke for and he said his brother Seneca Holland and
he said his brother Seneca Holland and
he said his brother Seneca Holland and Bill Dunn three of them so we had supper
Bill Dunn three of them so we had supper
Bill Dunn three of them so we had supper and then every man bedded down and I
and then every man bedded down and I
and then every man bedded down and I went to each one of them and I asked
went to each one of them and I asked
went to each one of them and I asked each one separately what he thought and
each one separately what he thought and
each one separately what he thought and everyone but those three said they would
everyone but those three said they would
everyone but those three said they would see it through that they weren’t going
see it through that they weren’t going
see it through that they weren’t going to quit that they wanted to go on so
to quit that they wanted to go on so
to quit that they wanted to go on so then I went back and woke up or
then I went back and woke up or
then I went back and woke up or mulholland and pleaded with him a little
mulholland and pleaded with him a little
mulholland and pleaded with him a little tried to persuade him and he said he
tried to persuade him and he said he
tried to persuade him and he said he could not be persuaded and he knew that
could not be persuaded and he knew that
could not be persuaded and he knew that Seneca and Bill Dunn were finished also
Seneca and Bill Dunn were finished also
Seneca and Bill Dunn were finished also here’s what I wrote we have another
here’s what I wrote we have another
here’s what I wrote we have another little talk about tomorrow and he lies
little talk about tomorrow and he lies
little talk about tomorrow and he lies down again but for me there is no sleep
down again but for me there is no sleep
down again but for me there is no sleep all night long I pace up and down a few
all night long I pace up and down a few
all night long I pace up and down a few yards of sand beach along by the river
yards of sand beach along by the river
yards of sand beach along by the river is it wise to go on I go to the boats
is it wise to go on I go to the boats
is it wise to go on I go to the boats again to look at our rations
again to look at our rations
again to look at our rations I feel certain we can get beyond the
I feel certain we can get beyond the
I feel certain we can get beyond the dangers immediately before us but what
dangers immediately before us but what
dangers immediately before us but what may be below
may be below
may be below I know not from our position yesterday
I know not from our position yesterday
I know not from our position yesterday high up on the cliffs the river seemed
high up on the cliffs the river seemed
high up on the cliffs the river seemed to make another Great Bend to the south
to make another Great Bend to the south
to make another Great Bend to the south which from our experience heretofore
which from our experience heretofore
which from our experience heretofore means more and higher granite walls I’m
means more and higher granite walls I’m
means more and higher granite walls I’m not sure we can climb out of the canyon
not sure we can climb out of the canyon
not sure we can climb out of the canyon here and when at the top of the wall I
here and when at the top of the wall I
here and when at the top of the wall I know enough of the surrounding
know enough of the surrounding
know enough of the surrounding countryside to be certain that it is a
countryside to be certain that it is a
countryside to be certain that it is a desert of rock and sand between this and
desert of rock and sand between this and
desert of rock and sand between this and the nearest Mormon village which on the
the nearest Mormon village which on the
the nearest Mormon village which on the most direct line must be at least 75
most direct line must be at least 75
most direct line must be at least 75 miles away true the late rains have been
miles away true the late rains have been
miles away true the late rains have been favorable to us should we climb out for
favorable to us should we climb out for
favorable to us should we climb out for the chances are we shall find water
the chances are we shall find water
the chances are we shall find water standing in pools and at one time I
standing in pools and at one time I
standing in pools and at one time I almost decide to leave the river but for
almost decide to leave the river but for
almost decide to leave the river but for years I have been contemplating this
years I have been contemplating this
years I have been contemplating this trip to say there is a part of the
trip to say there is a part of the
trip to say there is a part of the canyon I cannot explore a part of the
canyon I cannot explore a part of the
canyon I cannot explore a part of the Colorado I cannot run having already
Colorado I cannot run having already
Colorado I cannot run having already almost accomplished it is more than I am
almost accomplished it is more than I am
almost accomplished it is more than I am willing to acknowledge and I determined
willing to acknowledge and I determined
willing to acknowledge and I determined to go on the breakfast was like a
to go on the breakfast was like a
to go on the breakfast was like a funeral
we made all the rest of our flour into
we made all the rest of our flour into biscuits two little piles and put them
biscuits two little piles and put them
biscuits two little piles and put them one for the those who were leaving on
one for the those who were leaving on
one for the those who were leaving on the other for the rest of us we gave
the other for the rest of us we gave
the other for the rest of us we gave them rifles and ammunition all of our
them rifles and ammunition all of our
them rifles and ammunition all of our valuables gold watches and any rings
valuables gold watches and any rings
valuables gold watches and any rings that we had because we were pretty
that we had because we were pretty
that we had because we were pretty certain we weren’t going to make it and
certain we weren’t going to make it and
certain we weren’t going to make it and letters to our families and then we said
letters to our families and then we said
letters to our families and then we said farewell and shook hands to the the best
farewell and shook hands to the the best
farewell and shook hands to the the best men you could ever meet in your life and
men you could ever meet in your life and
men you could ever meet in your life and we watched as they began to to scramble
we watched as they began to to scramble
we watched as they began to to scramble up the North Face of the Grand Canyon
up the North Face of the Grand Canyon
up the North Face of the Grand Canyon now
now
now we had no choice but to face this thing
we had no choice but to face this thing
we had no choice but to face this thing and Bradley agreed to go first and one
and Bradley agreed to go first and one
and Bradley agreed to go first and one of the boats we abandoned the Emma Dean
of the boats we abandoned the Emma Dean
of the boats we abandoned the Emma Dean now so now we have to leaky boats left
now so now we have to leaky boats left
now so now we have to leaky boats left and Bradley said he would go first to
and Bradley said he would go first to
and Bradley said he would go first to take a look and so we lined him down
take a look and so we lined him down
take a look and so we lined him down with all the rope we still had in our
with all the rope we still had in our
with all the rope we still had in our possession got him as far out on that
possession got him as far out on that
possession got him as far out on that Herculean rapid as we could and he was
Herculean rapid as we could and he was
Herculean rapid as we could and he was going to look to see what it looks like
going to look to see what it looks like
going to look to see what it looks like down river but the Colorado began to
down river but the Colorado began to
down river but the Colorado began to sway his boat back and forth like a
sway his boat back and forth like a
sway his boat back and forth like a pendulum and it was riding from one
pendulum and it was riding from one
pendulum and it was riding from one cliff to the other hitting the wall and
cliff to the other hitting the wall and
cliff to the other hitting the wall and then hitting the other wall and it was
then hitting the other wall and it was
then hitting the other wall and it was certain that he would be smashed to
certain that he would be smashed to
certain that he would be smashed to smithereens and so he took out his knife
smithereens and so he took out his knife
smithereens and so he took out his knife and he cut the rope over the falls he
and he cut the rope over the falls he
and he cut the rope over the falls he went we were certain he was dead and a
went we were certain he was dead and a
went we were certain he was dead and a minute or two later his boat popped up
minute or two later his boat popped up
minute or two later his boat popped up and he was alive and he waved his hat
and he was alive and he waved his hat
and he was alive and he waved his hat like a rodeo cowboy and now we did the
like a rodeo cowboy and now we did the
like a rodeo cowboy and now we did the stupidest thing we ever did the rest of
stupidest thing we ever did the rest of
stupidest thing we ever did the rest of us gotten the other boat without
us gotten the other boat without
us gotten the other boat without anything he just did it we just popped
anything he just did it we just popped
anything he just did it we just popped over the thing it was insane and we were
over the thing it was insane and we were
over the thing it was insane and we were half drowned and waterlogged and was
half drowned and waterlogged and was
half drowned and waterlogged and was scrambled to shore we got out the rifles
scrambled to shore we got out the rifles
scrambled to shore we got out the rifles and fired repeatedly as a signal to the
and fired repeatedly as a signal to the
and fired repeatedly as a signal to the men if they couldn’t decline back down
men if they couldn’t decline back down
men if they couldn’t decline back down and join us
and join us
and join us but they didn’t whether they heard us
but they didn’t whether they heard us
but they didn’t whether they heard us didn’t come or whether they didn’t hear
didn’t come or whether they didn’t hear
didn’t come or whether they didn’t hear us at all we never learned and there was
us at all we never learned and there was
us at all we never learned and there was one more significant rapid and then we
one more significant rapid and then we
one more significant rapid and then we were out then we were at grande wash
were out then we were at grande wash
were out then we were at grande wash cliffs and from 6,000 feet the cliffs
cliffs and from 6,000 feet the cliffs
cliffs and from 6,000 feet the cliffs diminished to nothing and I wrote one of
diminished to nothing and I wrote one of
diminished to nothing and I wrote one of the last entries in my diary I said ever
the last entries in my diary I said ever
the last entries in my diary I said ever before us has been an unknown danger
before us has been an unknown danger
before us has been an unknown danger heavier than the immediate peril every
heavier than the immediate peril every
heavier than the immediate peril every waking hour we have spent in the Grand
waking hour we have spent in the Grand
waking hour we have spent in the Grand Canyon has been one of toil we have
Canyon has been one of toil we have
Canyon has been one of toil we have watched with deep
watched with deep
watched with deep solicitude the steady disappearance of
solicitude the steady disappearance of
solicitude the steady disappearance of our scant supply of rations and from
our scant supply of rations and from
our scant supply of rations and from time to time have watched as the river
time to time have watched as the river
time to time have watched as the river snatched away a little that was left to
snatched away a little that was left to
snatched away a little that was left to us while we were hungry and toil and
us while we were hungry and toil and
us while we were hungry and toil and danger have been known in those great
danger have been known in those great
danger have been known in those great depths were off times clouds hid the sky
depths were off times clouds hid the sky
depths were off times clouds hid the sky by day and but a narrow zone of stars
by day and but a narrow zone of stars
by day and but a narrow zone of stars could be seen at night only during the
could be seen at night only during the
could be seen at night only during the few hours of deep sleep consequent on
few hours of deep sleep consequent on
few hours of deep sleep consequent on hard labor as the roar of the waters
hard labor as the roar of the waters
hard labor as the roar of the waters been hushed but now the danger is over
been hushed but now the danger is over
been hushed but now the danger is over now the toil has ceased now the gloom
now the toil has ceased now the gloom
now the toil has ceased now the gloom has disappeared and now the firmament is
has disappeared and now the firmament is
has disappeared and now the firmament is bounded only by the far horizon and what
bounded only by the far horizon and what
bounded only by the far horizon and what a vast expanse of stars can now be seen
the river rolls by in silent majesty the
the river rolls by in silent majesty the silence of our camp is sweet our joy is
silence of our camp is sweet our joy is
silence of our camp is sweet our joy is almost ecstasy we sit up to after
almost ecstasy we sit up to after
almost ecstasy we sit up to after midnight talking talking of the Grand
midnight talking talking of the Grand
midnight talking talking of the Grand Canyon talking of home and talking
Canyon talking of home and talking
Canyon talking of home and talking principally of the three men who left us
principally of the three men who left us
principally of the three men who left us are they wandering around and these
are they wandering around and these
are they wandering around and these great depths unable to find their way
great depths unable to find their way
great depths unable to find their way out
out
out are they scouring the plateau above in
are they scouring the plateau above in
are they scouring the plateau above in search of water or as we hope are they
search of water or as we hope are they
search of water or as we hope are they nearing the Mormon villages well when we
nearing the Mormon villages well when we
nearing the Mormon villages well when we came out at grande wash cliffs there
came out at grande wash cliffs there
came out at grande wash cliffs there were five men waiting for us four men
were five men waiting for us four men
were five men waiting for us four men and a boy four of them were Mormons and
and a boy four of them were Mormons and
and a boy four of them were Mormons and one was an Indian and they had been sent
one was an Indian and they had been sent
one was an Indian and they had been sent by Bringham young I was a friend of
by Bringham young I was a friend of
by Bringham young I was a friend of young he knew what we were doing and he
young he knew what we were doing and he
young he knew what we were doing and he had sent them either to rescue us or to
had sent them either to rescue us or to
had sent them either to rescue us or to pick up whatever was left and so they
pick up whatever was left and so they
pick up whatever was left and so they helped us gave us food this was the end
helped us gave us food this was the end
helped us gave us food this was the end of the journey for my brother Walter and
of the journey for my brother Walter and
of the journey for my brother Walter and me we made our way overland to Salt Lake
me we made our way overland to Salt Lake
me we made our way overland to Salt Lake City where we learned from the national
City where we learned from the national
City where we learned from the national press that the entire expedition had
press that the entire expedition had
press that the entire expedition had perished in the canyon of lador
when I got back to civilization and
when I got back to civilization and corrected the erroneous Press reports I
corrected the erroneous Press reports I
corrected the erroneous Press reports I found that I was a hero even a national
found that I was a hero even a national
found that I was a hero even a national hero and Congressman wanted to talk with
hero and Congressman wanted to talk with
hero and Congressman wanted to talk with me and give me money and find places for
me and give me money and find places for
me and give me money and find places for me in Washington and fund for future
me in Washington and fund for future
me in Washington and fund for future expeditions well let me just tie up this
expeditions well let me just tie up this
expeditions well let me just tie up this one loose end the three men or Milland
one loose end the three men or Milland
one loose end the three men or Milland Seneca Howland and Bill Dunn were able
Seneca Howland and Bill Dunn were able
Seneca Howland and Bill Dunn were able to climb out they climbed a mile
to climb out they climbed a mile
to climb out they climbed a mile straight up when they got to the to the
straight up when they got to the to the
straight up when they got to the to the North Rim of the Grand Canyon they made
North Rim of the Grand Canyon they made
North Rim of the Grand Canyon they made their way towards those settlements
their way towards those settlements
their way towards those settlements nobody knows what happened but they died
nobody knows what happened but they died
nobody knows what happened but they died I went back the following year to see if
I went back the following year to see if
I went back the following year to see if I could make sense of it and it appears
I could make sense of it and it appears
I could make sense of it and it appears that they had some sort of a dark
that they had some sort of a dark
that they had some sort of a dark encounter with a group of ship wits
encounter with a group of ship wits
encounter with a group of ship wits Indians the ship wits told me that
Indians the ship wits told me that
Indians the ship wits told me that somebody had raped a young ship witch
somebody had raped a young ship witch
somebody had raped a young ship witch girl and that they reckoned that these
girl and that they reckoned that these
girl and that they reckoned that these were the culprits and so executed them
were the culprits and so executed them
were the culprits and so executed them when I told them that that could not
when I told them that that could not
when I told them that that could not have happened the ship withs apologized
have happened the ship withs apologized
have happened the ship withs apologized and made a ceremony of reconciliation
and made a ceremony of reconciliation
and made a ceremony of reconciliation nobody knows for sure but they died I
repeated the expedition in 1871 and 1872
repeated the expedition in 1871 and 1872 with better boats and more science I
with better boats and more science I
with better boats and more science I think we’ll stop at this point because
think we’ll stop at this point because
think we’ll stop at this point because we’re out of time but here’s what I’m
we’re out of time but here’s what I’m
we’re out of time but here’s what I’m going to do with that if you don’t mind
going to do with that if you don’t mind
going to do with that if you don’t mind I’m going to remove this disgusting gear
”
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