what we’re going to do tonight Kevin and I are going to take you on an unusual
I are going to take you on an unusual
I are going to take you on an unusual and somewhat remarkable journey through
and somewhat remarkable journey through
and somewhat remarkable journey through a remarkable place Grand Canyon but
a remarkable place Grand Canyon but
a remarkable place Grand Canyon but before we do that we felt it’s important
before we do that we felt it’s important
before we do that we felt it’s important to get a little bit of an idea of how we
to get a little bit of an idea of how we
to get a little bit of an idea of how we know each other and I think that might
know each other and I think that might
know each other and I think that might reveal who we are a little bit yeah and
reveal who we are a little bit yeah and
reveal who we are a little bit yeah and I should say that you know this is
I should say that you know this is
I should say that you know this is probably the moment those of you who
probably the moment those of you who
probably the moment those of you who have come here tonight expecting to get
have come here tonight expecting to get
have come here tonight expecting to get a window into you know the sort of deep
a window into you know the sort of deep
a window into you know the sort of deep symphonic emotional resonance that sets
symphonic emotional resonance that sets
symphonic emotional resonance that sets up between a professional photographer
up between a professional photographer
up between a professional photographer and a writer this is the moment where I
and a writer this is the moment where I
and a writer this is the moment where I disabuse you of that delusion because
disabuse you of that delusion because
disabuse you of that delusion because the pattern that unfolds between Pete
the pattern that unfolds between Pete
the pattern that unfolds between Pete and I basically consists of it’s
and I basically consists of it’s
and I basically consists of it’s extremely simple he comes up with an
extremely simple he comes up with an
extremely simple he comes up with an apocalyptically bad idea and in the
apocalyptically bad idea and in the
apocalyptically bad idea and in the course of attempting to convince him of
course of attempting to convince him of
course of attempting to convince him of what a bad idea this is and why we
what a bad idea this is and why we
what a bad idea this is and why we should not do it he somehow through a
should not do it he somehow through a
should not do it he somehow through a mysterious alchemy that involves
mysterious alchemy that involves
mysterious alchemy that involves intellectual seduction manages to drag
intellectual seduction manages to drag
intellectual seduction manages to drag me into the idea and I find myself and
me into the idea and I find myself and
me into the idea and I find myself and yet another part of the world that I
yet another part of the world that I
yet another part of the world that I didn’t want to be in in the first place
didn’t want to be in in the first place
didn’t want to be in in the first place all right the first bad idea was to
all right the first bad idea was to
all right the first bad idea was to convince Kevin to join me in the caucus
convince Kevin to join me in the caucus
convince Kevin to join me in the caucus mountains in the Republic of Georgia now
mountains in the Republic of Georgia now
mountains in the Republic of Georgia now I grew up in the mountains I love skiing
I grew up in the mountains I love skiing
I grew up in the mountains I love skiing and this place is where the Border
and this place is where the Border
and this place is where the Border Patrol the patrols the Chechnya border
Patrol the patrols the Chechnya border
Patrol the patrols the Chechnya border operates on skis and I was like I want
operates on skis and I was like I want
operates on skis and I was like I want to follow these guys I want to
to follow these guys I want to
to follow these guys I want to understand this part of the world great
understand this part of the world great
understand this part of the world great idea would have been a great idea two
idea would have been a great idea two
idea would have been a great idea two problems
problems
problems as these guys were very very heavily
as these guys were very very heavily
as these guys were very very heavily armed the second problem was that Pete
armed the second problem was that Pete
armed the second problem was that Pete didn’t check the weather report the
didn’t check the weather report the
didn’t check the weather report the avalanches that resulted from the
avalanches that resulted from the
avalanches that resulted from the massive series of snowstorms that
massive series of snowstorms that
massive series of snowstorms that descended across the Black Sea and all
descended across the Black Sea and all
descended across the Black Sea and all of the Republic of Georgia shut the
of the Republic of Georgia shut the
of the Republic of Georgia shut the entire country down and we spent the
entire country down and we spent the
entire country down and we spent the next week holed up in what should have
next week holed up in what should have
next week holed up in what should have been a hotel except it was a bank eating
been a hotel except it was a bank eating
been a hotel except it was a bank eating food like this all right so that wasn’t
food like this all right so that wasn’t
food like this all right so that wasn’t maybe that’s such a good idea the next
maybe that’s such a good idea the next
maybe that’s such a good idea the next idea had less guns higher chance of
idea had less guns higher chance of
idea had less guns higher chance of success was to go to the north of Canada
success was to go to the north of Canada
success was to go to the north of Canada to yukon to one of the most remote areas
to yukon to one of the most remote areas
to yukon to one of the most remote areas up in the Arctic to follow the porcupine
up in the Arctic to follow the porcupine
up in the Arctic to follow the porcupine caribou herd and we had this thing
caribou herd and we had this thing
caribou herd and we had this thing dialed we’re going to take the first
dialed we’re going to take the first
dialed we’re going to take the first River North on rafts and we’re going to
River North on rafts and we’re going to
River North on rafts and we’re going to time it not only to see the greatest
time it not only to see the greatest
time it not only to see the greatest migration of the caribou board move
migration of the caribou board move
migration of the caribou board move across there but we’re going to float
across there but we’re going to float
across there but we’re going to float with them as they travel yeah and you’d
with them as they travel yeah and you’d
with them as they travel yeah and you’d think that to National Geographic
think that to National Geographic
think that to National Geographic journalists would be able to locate the
journalists would be able to locate the
journalists would be able to locate the perky porcupine caribou herd the largest
perky porcupine caribou herd the largest
perky porcupine caribou herd the largest collection of charismatic megafauna on
collection of charismatic megafauna on
collection of charismatic megafauna on this on the face of North America but
this on the face of North America but
this on the face of North America but know after two weeks of searching we did
know after two weeks of searching we did
know after two weeks of searching we did not manage to locate a single live
not manage to locate a single live
not manage to locate a single live animal
alright alright so third strike I
alright alright so third strike I figured this one’s going to be a home
figured this one’s going to be a home
figured this one’s going to be a home run how could this possibly go wrong I
run how could this possibly go wrong I
run how could this possibly go wrong I convinced Kevin that there’s this story
convinced Kevin that there’s this story
convinced Kevin that there’s this story on the south side of Mount Everest
on the south side of Mount Everest
on the south side of Mount Everest that is totally unusual and it’s unique
that is totally unusual and it’s unique
that is totally unusual and it’s unique and it’s not about the circus of trying
and it’s not about the circus of trying
and it’s not about the circus of trying to get to the top of the mountain it’s
to get to the top of the mountain it’s
to get to the top of the mountain it’s about these guys that live let me get
about these guys that live let me get
about these guys that live let me get that clicker to work that live inside
that clicker to work that live inside
that clicker to work that live inside the Khumbu Icefall and basically build
the Khumbu Icefall and basically build
the Khumbu Icefall and basically build the route for everyone else to climb the
the route for everyone else to climb the
the route for everyone else to climb the mountain these are the unsung heroes and
mountain these are the unsung heroes and
mountain these are the unsung heroes and they do this remarkable job of building
they do this remarkable job of building
they do this remarkable job of building and engineering the route through this
and engineering the route through this
and engineering the route through this Icefall that goes from 18,000 feet to
Icefall that goes from 18,000 feet to
Icefall that goes from 18,000 feet to 22,000 feet this is their office and
22,000 feet this is their office and
22,000 feet this is their office and most people don’t know even who they are
most people don’t know even who they are
most people don’t know even who they are and here’s the problem if your office
and here’s the problem if your office
and here’s the problem if your office looks like this things like this tend to
looks like this things like this tend to
looks like this things like this tend to happen in it a giant chunk of ice about
happen in it a giant chunk of ice about
happen in it a giant chunk of ice about the size of an aircraft carrier may
the size of an aircraft carrier may
the size of an aircraft carrier may break off of a cornice plummet 600 feet
break off of a cornice plummet 600 feet
break off of a cornice plummet 600 feet onto the top of the glacier and detonate
onto the top of the glacier and detonate
onto the top of the glacier and detonate creating a giant cloud of vaporized ice
creating a giant cloud of vaporized ice
creating a giant cloud of vaporized ice crystals which hurtles towards you at
crystals which hurtles towards you at
crystals which hurtles towards you at about a hundred miles an hour now at
about a hundred miles an hour now at
about a hundred miles an hour now at this point I’m on the left side of this
this point I’m on the left side of this
this point I’m on the left side of this photograph running for my life
photograph running for my life
photograph running for my life and this other guy with us is doing the
and this other guy with us is doing the
and this other guy with us is doing the same thing it’s a testament to Pete’s
same thing it’s a testament to Pete’s
same thing it’s a testament to Pete’s commitment to the art of photography
commitment to the art of photography
commitment to the art of photography that he managed to stand there and keep
that he managed to stand there and keep
that he managed to stand there and keep shooting the reality is is I didn’t know
shooting the reality is is I didn’t know
shooting the reality is is I didn’t know what else to do I thought that ambulance
what else to do I thought that ambulance
what else to do I thought that ambulance was going to basically snuff us out so I
was going to basically snuff us out so I
was going to basically snuff us out so I figured I’d give some evidence of what
figured I’d give some evidence of what
figured I’d give some evidence of what happened to us at this point however I
happened to us at this point however I
happened to us at this point however I basically realized that maybe the
basically realized that maybe the
basically realized that maybe the chasing these magazine stories all over
chasing these magazine stories all over
chasing these magazine stories all over the world is maybe not maybe we need to
the world is maybe not maybe we need to
the world is maybe not maybe we need to change maybe I’m ready to go home and it
change maybe I’m ready to go home and it
change maybe I’m ready to go home and it has been a long journey and as you might
has been a long journey and as you might
has been a long journey and as you might detect Kevin and I have a little bit of
detect Kevin and I have a little bit of
detect Kevin and I have a little bit of a different personality I have a
a different personality I have a
a different personality I have a tendency in part because of what I do is
tendency in part because of what I do is
tendency in part because of what I do is to look for the light in the world I’m a
to look for the light in the world I’m a
to look for the light in the world I’m a photographer I make films I’m constantly
photographer I make films I’m constantly
photographer I make films I’m constantly looking for the bright side of things
looking for the bright side of things
looking for the bright side of things I’d say I’m more optimistic and Kevin
I’d say I’m more optimistic and Kevin
I’d say I’m more optimistic and Kevin you know he sometimes thank you a little
you know he sometimes thank you a little
you know he sometimes thank you a little differently yeah that would be an
differently yeah that would be an
differently yeah that would be an understatement
look I’m a dark person the word itself
look I’m a dark person the word itself is woven into my last name and part of
is woven into my last name and part of
is woven into my last name and part of what that means is that I sort of
what that means is that I sort of
what that means is that I sort of specialize in and my ethos as a human
specialize in and my ethos as a human
specialize in and my ethos as a human being is rooted in the idea that it’s
being is rooted in the idea that it’s
being is rooted in the idea that it’s necessary and important to take the
necessary and important to take the
necessary and important to take the worst possible interpretation pretty
worst possible interpretation pretty
worst possible interpretation pretty much every situation if the sun is
much every situation if the sun is
much every situation if the sun is shining it is raining somewhere now it’s
shining it is raining somewhere now it’s
shining it is raining somewhere now it’s a very sort of complex psychological
a very sort of complex psychological
a very sort of complex psychological matrix that I don’t fully understand the
matrix that I don’t fully understand the
matrix that I don’t fully understand the simplest way I can explain it to you is
simplest way I can explain it to you is
simplest way I can explain it to you is to put it into well let’s just put it
to put it into well let’s just put it
to put it into well let’s just put it into terms of winnie-the-pooh basically
into terms of winnie-the-pooh basically
into terms of winnie-the-pooh basically peach is Tigger and I’m a or so at this
peach is Tigger and I’m a or so at this
peach is Tigger and I’m a or so at this point Tigger and a or basically had a
point Tigger and a or basically had a
point Tigger and a or basically had a small breakup I think we had a little
small breakup I think we had a little
small breakup I think we had a little fatigue of going in these misadventures
fatigue of going in these misadventures
fatigue of going in these misadventures together we both returned home I
together we both returned home I
together we both returned home I returned home to Colorado this is
returned home to Colorado this is
returned home to Colorado this is basically my backyard River and I
basically my backyard River and I
basically my backyard River and I decided to do something a little
decided to do something a little
decided to do something a little different I was getting a little tired
different I was getting a little tired
different I was getting a little tired of chasing these short magazine stories
of chasing these short magazine stories
of chasing these short magazine stories I wanted to do something a little longer
I wanted to do something a little longer
I wanted to do something a little longer and sink my my heels in a little bit
and sink my my heels in a little bit
and sink my my heels in a little bit more so I followed my what I call my
more so I followed my what I call my
more so I followed my what I call my backyard River the Colorado River I
backyard River the Colorado River I
backyard River the Colorado River I followed it from the mountains in the
followed it from the mountains in the
followed it from the mountains in the source of Colorado basically 1,500 miles
source of Colorado basically 1,500 miles
source of Colorado basically 1,500 miles to try to understand where does the
to try to understand where does the
to try to understand where does the Western water where does this this
Western water where does this this
Western water where does this this lifeline that supports 40 million people
lifeline that supports 40 million people
lifeline that supports 40 million people in the southwest where does it go when
in the southwest where does it go when
in the southwest where does it go when it travels through this desert landscape
it travels through this desert landscape
it travels through this desert landscape and what happens at the end and does it
and what happens at the end and does it
and what happens at the end and does it reach the end and to my amazement the
reach the end and to my amazement the
reach the end and to my amazement the Colorado River doesn’t it gets dried up
Colorado River doesn’t it gets dried up
Colorado River doesn’t it gets dried up in this place right here the Sea of
in this place right here the Sea of
in this place right here the Sea of Cortez 100 miles shy of the sea we dried
Cortez 100 miles shy of the sea we dried
Cortez 100 miles shy of the sea we dried it up roughly two decades ago I ran to
it up roughly two decades ago I ran to
it up roughly two decades ago I ran to the sea for six million years and we
the sea for six million years and we
the sea for six million years and we turned it into basically this this
turned it into basically this this
turned it into basically this this desert wasteland and what I realized at
desert wasteland and what I realized at
desert wasteland and what I realized at this point is that there are a lot of
this point is that there are a lot of
this point is that there are a lot of stories around rivers and water this the
stories around rivers and water this the
stories around rivers and water this the arteries of our planet so to speak that
arteries of our planet so to speak that
arteries of our planet so to speak that are getting untold and so I was became
are getting untold and so I was became
are getting untold and so I was became very committed I think to trying to
very committed I think to trying to
very committed I think to trying to document these stories on some level and
document these stories on some level and
document these stories on some level and I made it I may have had some
I made it I may have had some
I made it I may have had some notion of your commitment had I not
notion of your commitment had I not
notion of your commitment had I not decided that I had temporarily stopped
decided that I had temporarily stopped
decided that I had temporarily stopped speaking to Pete at this point and so I
speaking to Pete at this point and so I
speaking to Pete at this point and so I was completely unaware that he was
was completely unaware that he was
was completely unaware that he was engaged in this very sort of
engaged in this very sort of
engaged in this very sort of comprehensive project that was focused
comprehensive project that was focused
comprehensive project that was focused on as it turns out the very same thing
on as it turns out the very same thing
on as it turns out the very same thing that I was focused on it’s just the only
that I was focused on it’s just the only
that I was focused on it’s just the only difference was it I had my eye on one
difference was it I had my eye on one
difference was it I had my eye on one particular section of the Colorado River
particular section of the Colorado River
particular section of the Colorado River I’m talking about the most storied and
I’m talking about the most storied and
I’m talking about the most storied and legendary section of all the 277 miles
legendary section of all the 277 miles
legendary section of all the 277 miles it runs through the Grand Canyon in
it runs through the Grand Canyon in
it runs through the Grand Canyon in northern Arizona Executive River that is
northern Arizona Executive River that is
northern Arizona Executive River that is defined by exceptional sections of
defined by exceptional sections of
defined by exceptional sections of gorgeous light and beautiful beautiful
gorgeous light and beautiful beautiful
gorgeous light and beautiful beautiful tranquility punctuated by moments of
tranquility punctuated by moments of
tranquility punctuated by moments of unholy chaos that are known as Rapids
unholy chaos that are known as Rapids
unholy chaos that are known as Rapids and it’s inside of those Rapids that
and it’s inside of those Rapids that
and it’s inside of those Rapids that some of the some of the real sort of
some of the some of the real sort of
some of the some of the real sort of savagery unfolds inside the river and
savagery unfolds inside the river and
savagery unfolds inside the river and the river really gives you an idea of
the river really gives you an idea of
the river really gives you an idea of how powerful it truly is what it’s
how powerful it truly is what it’s
how powerful it truly is what it’s capable of doing to you
that’s you paddling right
that’s you paddling right that was not me paddling but there’s
that was not me paddling but there’s
that was not me paddling but there’s some truth to it because I’ve become
some truth to it because I’ve become
some truth to it because I’ve become obsessed I’ve become obsessed with the
obsessed I’ve become obsessed with the
obsessed I’ve become obsessed with the world of the river and I’ve become
world of the river and I’ve become
world of the river and I’ve become obsessed with a particular story
obsessed with a particular story
obsessed with a particular story attached to a particular man this guy’s
attached to a particular man this guy’s
attached to a particular man this guy’s name is Kenton gruha the legendary Grand
name is Kenton gruha the legendary Grand
name is Kenton gruha the legendary Grand Canyon river guide in 1983 as Peter when
Canyon river guide in 1983 as Peter when
Canyon river guide in 1983 as Peter when mentioned a few minutes ago he set the
mentioned a few minutes ago he set the
mentioned a few minutes ago he set the speed record the standing speed record
speed record the standing speed record
speed record the standing speed record for the fastest boat in history to race
for the fastest boat in history to race
for the fastest boat in history to race through the Grand Canyon but ten gruha
through the Grand Canyon but ten gruha
through the Grand Canyon but ten gruha had achieved something six years earlier
had achieved something six years earlier
had achieved something six years earlier that was arguably an even greater
that was arguably an even greater
that was arguably an even greater accomplishment it was an incredibly bold
accomplishment it was an incredibly bold
accomplishment it was an incredibly bold vision the idea was what he wanted to do
vision the idea was what he wanted to do
vision the idea was what he wanted to do was he wanted to start at the eastern
was he wanted to start at the eastern
was he wanted to start at the eastern end of the Grand Canyon and walk on foot
end of the Grand Canyon and walk on foot
end of the Grand Canyon and walk on foot all the way through to the western
all the way through to the western
all the way through to the western terminus where the canyon goes through
terminus where the canyon goes through
terminus where the canyon goes through something called the Grand wash cliffs
something called the Grand wash cliffs
something called the Grand wash cliffs and ends now he was following in the
and ends now he was following in the
and ends now he was following in the footsteps the man that Peter just
footsteps the man that Peter just
footsteps the man that Peter just mentioned John Wesley Powell the
mentioned John Wesley Powell the
mentioned John Wesley Powell the one-armed Civil War veteran who
one-armed Civil War veteran who
one-armed Civil War veteran who accomplished one of the most
accomplished one of the most
accomplished one of the most extraordinary acts in the history of
extraordinary acts in the history of
extraordinary acts in the history of American exploration in the summer of
American exploration in the summer of
American exploration in the summer of 1869 when he led an expedition
1869 when he led an expedition
1869 when he led an expedition consisting of ten men in four boats
consisting of ten men in four boats
consisting of ten men in four boats including himself down through the
including himself down through the
including himself down through the Colorado River I want you to think for a
Colorado River I want you to think for a
Colorado River I want you to think for a moment about 108 years that gap between
moment about 108 years that gap between
moment about 108 years that gap between 1869 John Wesley Powell’s pioneering
1869 John Wesley Powell’s pioneering
1869 John Wesley Powell’s pioneering river voyage 1977 Kenton grew his first
river voyage 1977 Kenton grew his first
river voyage 1977 Kenton grew his first traverse through the Grand Canyon and I
traverse through the Grand Canyon and I
traverse through the Grand Canyon and I want you to ask yourself what that gap
want you to ask yourself what that gap
want you to ask yourself what that gap says about the brokenness and brutality
says about the brokenness and brutality
says about the brokenness and brutality and complexity of this landscape it
and complexity of this landscape it
and complexity of this landscape it suggests that it is a place that does
suggests that it is a place that does
suggests that it is a place that does not invite and indeed ferociously resist
not invite and indeed ferociously resist
not invite and indeed ferociously resist human intrusion so I came back to this
human intrusion so I came back to this
human intrusion so I came back to this broken landscape three years ago I was
broken landscape three years ago I was
broken landscape three years ago I was invited by the National Park to do a
invited by the National Park to do a
invited by the National Park to do a talk about my project on on the river
talk about my project on on the river
talk about my project on on the river itself and I suddenly I had this kind of
itself and I suddenly I had this kind of
itself and I suddenly I had this kind of Epiphany I hiked down into the canyon
Epiphany I hiked down into the canyon
Epiphany I hiked down into the canyon and I had this idea please don’t be
and I had this idea please don’t be
and I had this idea please don’t be seduced by the rainbow
worst idea in the history of journalism
worst idea in the history of journalism all right well that’s Dior saying that
all right well that’s Dior saying that
all right well that’s Dior saying that but fortunately National Geographic
but fortunately National Geographic
but fortunately National Geographic agreed that this might be a good idea
agreed that this might be a good idea
agreed that this might be a good idea actually and they agreed to sponsor us
actually and they agreed to sponsor us
actually and they agreed to sponsor us and eventually I was able to convince
and eventually I was able to convince
and eventually I was able to convince Kevin to follow in the footsteps of
Kevin to follow in the footsteps of
Kevin to follow in the footsteps of Kenton gruha I’m going to be honest I’m
Kenton gruha I’m going to be honest I’m
Kenton gruha I’m going to be honest I’m not sure I really like hiking that much
not sure I really like hiking that much
not sure I really like hiking that much with a heavy pack no trail and no
with a heavy pack no trail and no
with a heavy pack no trail and no guarantee of water it’s hard stressful
guarantee of water it’s hard stressful
guarantee of water it’s hard stressful and very slow sure
and very slow sure
and very slow sure hiking can lead to some zen-like moments
hiking can lead to some zen-like moments
hiking can lead to some zen-like moments but not so much if you’re lost really
but not so much if you’re lost really
but not so much if you’re lost really tired and dehydrated yet there’s
tired and dehydrated yet there’s
tired and dehydrated yet there’s something about the Grand Canyon and its
something about the Grand Canyon and its
something about the Grand Canyon and its rocky secret world it is alluring
rocky secret world it is alluring
rocky secret world it is alluring magical even so in the fall of 2015 my
magical even so in the fall of 2015 my
magical even so in the fall of 2015 my friend and author kevin sadako and i set
friend and author kevin sadako and i set
friend and author kevin sadako and i set out to walk the entirety of the Grand
out to walk the entirety of the Grand
out to walk the entirety of the Grand Canyon from east to west in order to
Canyon from east to west in order to
Canyon from east to west in order to understand the insanity of his venture
understand the insanity of his venture
understand the insanity of his venture you first have to know a little bit
you first have to know a little bit
you first have to know a little bit about this place some stretches it is 18
about this place some stretches it is 18
about this place some stretches it is 18 miles wide and over a mile deep so deep
miles wide and over a mile deep so deep
miles wide and over a mile deep so deep in fact you could step five Empire State
in fact you could step five Empire State
in fact you could step five Empire State buildings want to top on the other
buildings want to top on the other
buildings want to top on the other inside it is 277 miles long if you’re
inside it is 277 miles long if you’re
inside it is 277 miles long if you’re floating the Colorado River but on foot
floating the Colorado River but on foot
floating the Colorado River but on foot by the time you’ve gone up and back down
by the time you’ve gone up and back down
by the time you’ve gone up and back down the numerous side canyons
the numerous side canyons
the numerous side canyons it’s more like 700 miles oh yeah
it’s more like 700 miles oh yeah
it’s more like 700 miles oh yeah and for most of it there’s no trail what
and for most of it there’s no trail what
and for most of it there’s no trail what are we going I don’t think we’ve gone
are we going I don’t think we’ve gone
are we going I don’t think we’ve gone far mouse this is really hard hiking it
far mouse this is really hard hiking it
far mouse this is really hard hiking it kind of demoralizes you a little bit as
kind of demoralizes you a little bit as
kind of demoralizes you a little bit as a result more people have stood on the
a result more people have stood on the
a result more people have stood on the surface of the Moon that have completed
surface of the Moon that have completed
surface of the Moon that have completed a continuous through hike of the Grand
a continuous through hike of the Grand
a continuous through hike of the Grand Canyon
Canyon
Canyon unlike those intrepid few Kevin and I
unlike those intrepid few Kevin and I
unlike those intrepid few Kevin and I decided to do a sectional version
decided to do a sectional version
decided to do a sectional version chipping off 100 to 150 mile chunks at a
chipping off 100 to 150 mile chunks at a
chipping off 100 to 150 mile chunks at a time just 30 hikers have completed
time just 30 hikers have completed
time just 30 hikers have completed sectional lines through the park and for
sectional lines through the park and for
sectional lines through the park and for some it took them decades to finish
some it took them decades to finish
some it took them decades to finish tragically others have perished
tragically others have perished
tragically others have perished attempting it Kevin and I would be the
attempting it Kevin and I would be the
attempting it Kevin and I would be the first journalists ever to tackle this
first journalists ever to tackle this
first journalists ever to tackle this hiking lunacy we plan to complete our
hiking lunacy we plan to complete our
hiking lunacy we plan to complete our mission over a year watching the seasons
mission over a year watching the seasons
mission over a year watching the seasons change and teaming up with hardened
change and teaming up with hardened
change and teaming up with hardened Canyon veterans helped us find our way
Canyon veterans helped us find our way
Canyon veterans helped us find our way and our legs but beyond that challenge
and our legs but beyond that challenge
and our legs but beyond that challenge something else drew us on this quest
something else drew us on this quest
something else drew us on this quest many claim the Grand Canyon is facing an
many claim the Grand Canyon is facing an
many claim the Grand Canyon is facing an unprecedented array of pressures from
unprecedented array of pressures from
unprecedented array of pressures from all four points from the compass
all four points from the compass
all four points from the compass development projects are poised to
development projects are poised to
development projects are poised to change the integrity of perhaps the most
change the integrity of perhaps the most
change the integrity of perhaps the most monumental landscape in America and we
monumental landscape in America and we
monumental landscape in America and we believe walking the park might give us a
believe walking the park might give us a
believe walking the park might give us a unique perspective on this secret world
unique perspective on this secret world
unique perspective on this secret world and what’s at stake to be lost between
and what’s at stake to be lost between
and what’s at stake to be lost between the river and the rim so like I said I
the river and the rim so like I said I
the river and the rim so like I said I think I was quickly reminded how I don’t
think I was quickly reminded how I don’t
think I was quickly reminded how I don’t like hiking that much so the real
like hiking that much so the real
like hiking that much so the real purpose of this project from the
purpose of this project from the
purpose of this project from the beginning from the genesis of it was to
beginning from the genesis of it was to
beginning from the genesis of it was to actually shine a spotlight on what’s
actually shine a spotlight on what’s
actually shine a spotlight on what’s happening in the park that as it
happening in the park that as it
happening in the park that as it approaches its 100th birthday and the
approaches its 100th birthday and the
approaches its 100th birthday and the reality what’s happening and we’re going
reality what’s happening and we’re going
reality what’s happening and we’re going to walk you through some of these these
to walk you through some of these these
to walk you through some of these these issues is getting pressure from all four
issues is getting pressure from all four
issues is getting pressure from all four points on the compass from all sides
points on the compass from all sides
points on the compass from all sides east west north and south and we figured
east west north and south and we figured
east west north and south and we figured that this walk would what basically we
that this walk would what basically we
that this walk would what basically we could walk through it the walk would be
could walk through it the walk would be
could walk through it the walk would be the backbone to talk about to
the backbone to talk about to
the backbone to talk about to we did know when we started that all
we did know when we started that all
we did know when we started that all right this was maybe a place we knew the
right this was maybe a place we knew the
right this was maybe a place we knew the river better than we knew the area
river better than we knew the area
river better than we knew the area between the river and the rim and so we
between the river and the rim and so we
between the river and the rim and so we needed some help so this guy wearing the
needed some help so this guy wearing the
needed some help so this guy wearing the star-spangled banner Gators richer Udo
star-spangled banner Gators richer Udo
star-spangled banner Gators richer Udo is one of the Guru’s of the cane he
is one of the Guru’s of the cane he
is one of the Guru’s of the cane he spent over 700 nights below the canyon
spent over 700 nights below the canyon
spent over 700 nights below the canyon when we started I asked him what the
when we started I asked him what the
when we started I asked him what the hell were these star-spangled banner
hell were these star-spangled banner
hell were these star-spangled banner thingies there may be the most important
thingies there may be the most important
thingies there may be the most important little item you can have if you’re
little item you can have if you’re
little item you can have if you’re drinking hanker there these Gators that
drinking hanker there these Gators that
drinking hanker there these Gators that keep the ferocious angry cactus and
keep the ferocious angry cactus and
keep the ferocious angry cactus and everything else it wants to get into
everything else it wants to get into
everything else it wants to get into your feet ankles on of course we didn’t
your feet ankles on of course we didn’t
your feet ankles on of course we didn’t know what they were so we were a little
know what they were so we were a little
know what they were so we were a little clueless on some level and but we
clueless on some level and but we
clueless on some level and but we basically latched on to these guys he
basically latched on to these guys he
basically latched on to these guys he agreed to let us follow them on their 57
agreed to let us follow them on their 57
agreed to let us follow them on their 57 day through hike they were going to
day through hike they were going to
day through hike they were going to start hiking in September of 2015 and
start hiking in September of 2015 and
start hiking in September of 2015 and not stop yes so this is what a is
not stop yes so this is what a is
not stop yes so this is what a is basically what a Special Forces Grand
basically what a Special Forces Grand
basically what a Special Forces Grand Canyon 18 looks like you know the level
Canyon 18 looks like you know the level
Canyon 18 looks like you know the level of experience it’s captured in this
of experience it’s captured in this
of experience it’s captured in this photograph extends back into decades
photograph extends back into decades
photograph extends back into decades these are men who spent an enormous
these are men who spent an enormous
these are men who spent an enormous amount of time they’ve invested time and
amount of time they’ve invested time and
amount of time they’ve invested time and energy learning this environment this is
energy learning this environment this is
energy learning this environment this is what it looks like through their eyes
what it looks like through their eyes
what it looks like through their eyes when two Yahoo’s from National
when two Yahoo’s from National
when two Yahoo’s from National Geographic show up prepared to tie
Geographic show up prepared to tie
Geographic show up prepared to tie themselves onto the back of their bumper
themselves onto the back of their bumper
themselves onto the back of their bumper like a couple of tin cans which raises
like a couple of tin cans which raises
like a couple of tin cans which raises an interesting question why in the world
an interesting question why in the world
an interesting question why in the world would these guys allow us to come along
would these guys allow us to come along
would these guys allow us to come along the answer is interesting and it says
the answer is interesting and it says
the answer is interesting and it says something about them their commitment to
something about them their commitment to
something about them their commitment to the canyon and their concern over what’s
the canyon and their concern over what’s
the canyon and their concern over what’s happening to this environment is so
happening to this environment is so
happening to this environment is so great that basically they they were they
great that basically they they were they
great that basically they they were they were aware of the fact that that we were
were aware of the fact that that we were
were aware of the fact that that we were capable of telling a story that that
capable of telling a story that that
capable of telling a story that that they thought was incredibly important
they thought was incredibly important
they thought was incredibly important and they were equally aware of the fact
and they were equally aware of the fact
and they were equally aware of the fact that this environment is so difficult
that this environment is so difficult
that this environment is so difficult physically that we will be incapable of
physically that we will be incapable of
physically that we will be incapable of moving moving through it without their
moving moving through it without their
moving moving through it without their assistance and so we embarked on this
assistance and so we embarked on this
assistance and so we embarked on this journey with them starting off to the
journey with them starting off to the
journey with them starting off to the first part of the canyon a section known
first part of the canyon a section known
first part of the canyon a section known as Marble Canyon and since Kevin and I
as Marble Canyon and since Kevin and I
as Marble Canyon and since Kevin and I had we’ve been down the river a few
had we’ve been down the river a few
had we’ve been down the river a few times with those rode the river
times with those rode the river
times with those rode the river successfully unsuccessfully we I however
successfully unsuccessfully we I however
successfully unsuccessfully we I however had this idyllic view that we would do
had this idyllic view that we would do
had this idyllic view that we would do basically a raft trip in hiking boots
basically a raft trip in hiking boots
basically a raft trip in hiking boots you know we’d be walking and we enjoy
you know we’d be walking and we enjoy
you know we’d be walking and we enjoy the tangerine light and maybe we’d have
the tangerine light and maybe we’d have
the tangerine light and maybe we’d have little you know swim after six hours of
little you know swim after six hours of
little you know swim after six hours of hiking Kevin might Penson poetry I might
hiking Kevin might Penson poetry I might
hiking Kevin might Penson poetry I might do some time-lapse photography wrong we
do some time-lapse photography wrong we
do some time-lapse photography wrong we quickly started realizing alright
quickly started realizing alright
quickly started realizing alright there’s a little more complex I mean we
there’s a little more complex I mean we
there’s a little more complex I mean we know it’s going to be hard but when you
know it’s going to be hard but when you
know it’s going to be hard but when you start looking at the 23 layers of rock
start looking at the 23 layers of rock
start looking at the 23 layers of rock inside the Grand Canyon and the endless
inside the Grand Canyon and the endless
inside the Grand Canyon and the endless number of tributaries that punctured
number of tributaries that punctured
number of tributaries that punctured this landscape and that you have to walk
this landscape and that you have to walk
this landscape and that you have to walk around and leave you quickly start
around and leave you quickly start
around and leave you quickly start realizing like this this is no raft trip
realizing like this this is no raft trip
realizing like this this is no raft trip on on on foot right and that’s just the
on on on foot right and that’s just the
on on on foot right and that’s just the first of a whole series of problems that
first of a whole series of problems that
first of a whole series of problems that start coming at you like a firehose and
start coming at you like a firehose and
start coming at you like a firehose and all of them are routed really in one
all of them are routed really in one
all of them are routed really in one basic fact which is that there’s no
basic fact which is that there’s no
basic fact which is that there’s no trail right and so what that means among
trail right and so what that means among
trail right and so what that means among so many other things is that every
so many other things is that every
so many other things is that every single step that you take in this
single step that you take in this
single step that you take in this landscape is a careful negotiation
landscape is a careful negotiation
landscape is a careful negotiation between you and the terrain itself it’s
between you and the terrain itself it’s
between you and the terrain itself it’s an act also that’s complicated and made
an act also that’s complicated and made
an act also that’s complicated and made infinitely more difficult by the heat by
infinitely more difficult by the heat by
infinitely more difficult by the heat by your level of energy by the fact that
your level of energy by the fact that
your level of energy by the fact that you are carrying on your back 50 pounds
you are carrying on your back 50 pounds
you are carrying on your back 50 pounds and so when you have to perform a
and so when you have to perform a
and so when you have to perform a dynamic and energy giant draining full
dynamic and energy giant draining full
dynamic and energy giant draining full body move in order to maintain your
body move in order to maintain your
body move in order to maintain your balance you do that over and over again
balance you do that over and over again
balance you do that over and over again minute after minute hour after hour it’s
minute after minute hour after hour it’s
minute after minute hour after hour it’s it’s so destructive to the body that by
it’s so destructive to the body that by
it’s so destructive to the body that by the by the end of the first day you
the by the end of the first day you
the by the end of the first day you basically end up looking like this
basically end up looking like this
basically end up looking like this piete worst digger at this point huh
piete worst digger at this point huh
piete worst digger at this point huh yeah I think date one day two Tigger
yeah I think date one day two Tigger
yeah I think date one day two Tigger crawled into a dark cave with a or
crawled into a dark cave with a or
crawled into a dark cave with a or pretty much wanted to just crawl into
pretty much wanted to just crawl into
pretty much wanted to just crawl into the cave permanently at this point this
the cave permanently at this point this
the cave permanently at this point this looks like a nice idyllic scene I was
looks like a nice idyllic scene I was
looks like a nice idyllic scene I was expecting this you you know sit around
expecting this you you know sit around
expecting this you you know sit around and tell stories under the spray of
and tell stories under the spray of
and tell stories under the spray of stars at night Oh contraire this is
stars at night Oh contraire this is
stars at night Oh contraire this is September late September and unusual
September late September and unusual
September late September and unusual heatwave rolled in I just don’t do well
heatwave rolled in I just don’t do well
heatwave rolled in I just don’t do well with heat it’s a hundred and ten degrees
with heat it’s a hundred and ten degrees
with heat it’s a hundred and ten degrees consistently throughout the day this is
consistently throughout the day this is
consistently throughout the day this is about 98 degrees we’re trying to sleep
about 98 degrees we’re trying to sleep
about 98 degrees we’re trying to sleep this is a furnace and this is a total
this is a furnace and this is a total
this is a furnace and this is a total nightmare by Dave three or day four I’m
nightmare by Dave three or day four I’m
nightmare by Dave three or day four I’m starting to feel really weird and I’m
starting to feel really weird and I’m
starting to feel really weird and I’m sick I’m not thinking clearly day four
sick I’m not thinking clearly day four
sick I’m not thinking clearly day four or five I’ve realized we are completely
or five I’ve realized we are completely
or five I’ve realized we are completely in over our heads I’m not eating any
in over our heads I’m not eating any
in over our heads I’m not eating any more Kevin’s having a hard time with his
more Kevin’s having a hard time with his
more Kevin’s having a hard time with his ankles we’re in a bad spot we’re in a
ankles we’re in a bad spot we’re in a
ankles we’re in a bad spot we’re in a bad spot and most of the most of most of
bad spot and most of the most of most of
bad spot and most of the most of most of it really is related to the heat it’s
it really is related to the heat it’s
it really is related to the heat it’s difficult to overstate just how
difficult to overstate just how
difficult to overstate just how difficult it just just how awful 105
difficult it just just how awful 105
difficult it just just how awful 105 degrees is but to give you an idea I
degrees is but to give you an idea I
degrees is but to give you an idea I mean one of the things it did was so hot
mean one of the things it did was so hot
mean one of the things it did was so hot that the heat was literally melting the
that the heat was literally melting the
that the heat was literally melting the bottoms of our shoes and and so the
bottoms of our shoes and and so the
bottoms of our shoes and and so the story of the impact of that process had
story of the impact of that process had
story of the impact of that process had was written in our feet for the first
was written in our feet for the first
was written in our feet for the first couple of days but there was another
couple of days but there was another
couple of days but there was another story unfolding invisibly inside of our
story unfolding invisibly inside of our
story unfolding invisibly inside of our body that was less evident by the third
body that was less evident by the third
body that was less evident by the third day I had descended into what seemed to
day I had descended into what seemed to
day I had descended into what seemed to me to be a walk a bottomless well of
me to be a walk a bottomless well of
me to be a walk a bottomless well of despair and death
and as bad as that may sound what was
and as bad as that may sound what was happening inside of P was far more
happening inside of P was far more
happening inside of P was far more alarming I think so
alarming I think so
alarming I think so by day three I’m starting to have this
by day three I’m starting to have this
by day three I’m starting to have this weird sensation I’m not thinking clearly
weird sensation I’m not thinking clearly
weird sensation I’m not thinking clearly and I’m starting to get body cramps I
and I’m starting to get body cramps I
and I’m starting to get body cramps I mean I got to a point where my tongue
mean I got to a point where my tongue
mean I got to a point where my tongue cramped and my hand is like this is and
cramped and my hand is like this is and
cramped and my hand is like this is and this is weird
this is weird
this is weird something light right so I must be
something light right so I must be
something light right so I must be dehydrated I wasn’t peeing all day so I
dehydrated I wasn’t peeing all day so I
dehydrated I wasn’t peeing all day so I start consuming a lot of water I’m
start consuming a lot of water I’m
start consuming a lot of water I’m drinking salts and too but basically I
drinking salts and too but basically I
drinking salts and too but basically I sweat a lot I sweated so much I sweated
sweat a lot I sweated so much I sweated
sweat a lot I sweated so much I sweated all of my my natural sodium system out
all of my my natural sodium system out
all of my my natural sodium system out and became hyponatremic this is the
and became hyponatremic this is the
and became hyponatremic this is the opposite of dehydration you deplete your
opposite of dehydration you deplete your
opposite of dehydration you deplete your salt level so low in your body that you
salt level so low in your body that you
salt level so low in your body that you started to vomit water you can go
started to vomit water you can go
started to vomit water you can go unconscious go into seizures and then a
unconscious go into seizures and then a
unconscious go into seizures and then a coma I was at this point feeling like I
coma I was at this point feeling like I
coma I was at this point feeling like I was headed towards unconsciousness we
was headed towards unconsciousness we
was headed towards unconsciousness we realized we got to evacuate so we hiked
realized we got to evacuate so we hiked
realized we got to evacuate so we hiked out we call in a friend this great guy
out we call in a friend this great guy
out we call in a friend this great guy JP comes in brings us in salty stuff I’m
JP comes in brings us in salty stuff I’m
JP comes in brings us in salty stuff I’m drinking soy sauce desperately and we’re
drinking soy sauce desperately and we’re
drinking soy sauce desperately and we’re able to hike out a hike that should have
able to hike out a hike that should have
able to hike out a hike that should have taken you know three hours and normal
taken you know three hours and normal
taken you know three hours and normal temperatures under normal conditions it
temperatures under normal conditions it
temperatures under normal conditions it took us about seven hours we limp out
took us about seven hours we limp out
took us about seven hours we limp out and crawl back to Flagstaff where I get
and crawl back to Flagstaff where I get
and crawl back to Flagstaff where I get really the first glance of Kevin’s
really the first glance of Kevin’s
really the first glance of Kevin’s ankles and realize that they’re totally
ankles and realize that they’re totally
ankles and realize that they’re totally blown out and sprained and at this point
blown out and sprained and at this point
blown out and sprained and at this point we’re basically staring down the barrel
we’re basically staring down the barrel
we’re basically staring down the barrel of failure and I’m I’m embarrassed on
of failure and I’m I’m embarrassed on
of failure and I’m I’m embarrassed on one level these these amazing
one level these these amazing
one level these these amazing thru-hikers have let us join them and
thru-hikers have let us join them and
thru-hikers have let us join them and we’ve we’ve like screwed their plane up
we’ve we’ve like screwed their plane up
we’ve we’ve like screwed their plane up they kept going but we delayed them a
they kept going but we delayed them a
they kept going but we delayed them a little bit
little bit
little bit I’ve brought Kevin in on this mission
I’ve brought Kevin in on this mission
I’ve brought Kevin in on this mission where he you know he’s miserably
where he you know he’s miserably
where he you know he’s miserably depressed at this point and then what am
depressed at this point and then what am
depressed at this point and then what am I going to tell you National Geographic
I going to tell you National Geographic
I going to tell you National Geographic and I’m you know my friend Sadie Cory or
and I’m you know my friend Sadie Cory or
and I’m you know my friend Sadie Cory or the editor who’s here somewhere am I
the editor who’s here somewhere am I
the editor who’s here somewhere am I going to tell her we’re just total
going to tell her we’re just total
going to tell her we’re just total clowns and how are we going to pull us
clowns and how are we going to pull us
clowns and how are we going to pull us out because not only was I messed up I
out because not only was I messed up I
out because not only was I messed up I was sick but I was frankly scared to go
was sick but I was frankly scared to go
was sick but I was frankly scared to go back into this place it was it was
back into this place it was it was
back into this place it was it was daunting it had really really beaten it
daunting it had really really beaten it
daunting it had really really beaten it out of me yeah and I felt the same way
out of me yeah and I felt the same way
out of me yeah and I felt the same way no surprise right
which which which which brings me to
which which which which brings me to kind of a difficult moment right now
kind of a difficult moment right now
kind of a difficult moment right now because as it turns out we were on the
because as it turns out we were on the
because as it turns out we were on the threshold of a turning point in this
threshold of a turning point in this
threshold of a turning point in this journey and and and that therefore
journey and and and that therefore
journey and and and that therefore forces me to say something positive
forces me to say something positive
forces me to say something positive because much to my surprise and
because much to my surprise and
because much to my surprise and unbeknownst to Pete a miracle was about
unbeknownst to Pete a miracle was about
unbeknownst to Pete a miracle was about to occur and that miracle had to do with
to occur and that miracle had to do with
to occur and that miracle had to do with the fact that Flagstaff is a very small
the fact that Flagstaff is a very small
the fact that Flagstaff is a very small community but it sits on the edge of the
community but it sits on the edge of the
community but it sits on the edge of the Grand Canyon and there is a very tiny
Grand Canyon and there is a very tiny
Grand Canyon and there is a very tiny but incredibly passionate group of
but incredibly passionate group of
but incredibly passionate group of people who are deeply committed to the
people who are deeply committed to the
people who are deeply committed to the Grand Canyon and because it’s a small
Grand Canyon and because it’s a small
Grand Canyon and because it’s a small town word travels very very quickly so
town word travels very very quickly so
town word travels very very quickly so we’re got out that these these two
we’re got out that these these two
we’re got out that these these two idiots from National Geographic head
idiots from National Geographic head
idiots from National Geographic head head head basically tail spins out of
head head basically tail spins out of
head head basically tail spins out of control retreated back to Flagstaff with
control retreated back to Flagstaff with
control retreated back to Flagstaff with her tails between their legs and were
her tails between their legs and were
her tails between their legs and were considering abandoning this very
considering abandoning this very
considering abandoning this very important story about the Grand Canyon
important story about the Grand Canyon
important story about the Grand Canyon and so what these people did was they
and so what these people did was they
and so what these people did was they decided that they were going to rally
decided that they were going to rally
decided that they were going to rally they showed up at my house whole group
they showed up at my house whole group
they showed up at my house whole group of them and over the next two to three
of them and over the next two to three
of them and over the next two to three weeks they redid our entire program they
weeks they redid our entire program they
weeks they redid our entire program they redialed our gear they reengineered our
redialed our gear they reengineered our
redialed our gear they reengineered our food system and they basically they
food system and they basically they
food system and they basically they basically embarked on a process that
basically embarked on a process that
basically embarked on a process that resulted in a Grand Canyon hiking
resulted in a Grand Canyon hiking
resulted in a Grand Canyon hiking makeover that was designed to get us
makeover that was designed to get us
makeover that was designed to get us back into the canyon back in gear and
back into the canyon back in gear and
back into the canyon back in gear and enable us to resume the mission which
enable us to resume the mission which
enable us to resume the mission which was to get our butts continuing
was to get our butts continuing
was to get our butts continuing downstream and that we did they brought
downstream and that we did they brought
downstream and that we did they brought us back in and one challenge for me is
us back in and one challenge for me is
us back in and one challenge for me is that usually when you do these
that usually when you do these
that usually when you do these assignments for National Geographic you
assignments for National Geographic you
assignments for National Geographic you you’re really afraid that if you go in
you’re really afraid that if you go in
you’re really afraid that if you go in with one camera that camera breaks you
with one camera that camera breaks you
with one camera that camera breaks you can’t be like well I didn’t have a
can’t be like well I didn’t have a
can’t be like well I didn’t have a camera but it is so challenging that
camera but it is so challenging that
camera but it is so challenging that they convinced me that I had to drop all
they convinced me that I had to drop all
they convinced me that I had to drop all my extra lenses all my extra cameras all
my extra lenses all my extra cameras all
my extra lenses all my extra cameras all my extra batteries I did the whole thing
my extra batteries I did the whole thing
my extra batteries I did the whole thing on one camera and one lens and then they
on one camera and one lens and then they
on one camera and one lens and then they brought us back into the canyon and
brought us back into the canyon and
brought us back into the canyon and showed us ways to get through following
showed us ways to get through following
showed us ways to get through following the sheep trails don’t be near the river
the sheep trails don’t be near the river
the sheep trails don’t be near the river follow look for the hoof prints look for
follow look for the hoof prints look for
follow look for the hoof prints look for the little black pellets they brought us
the little black pellets they brought us
the little black pellets they brought us through ancient ruins
through ancient ruins
through ancient ruins brought us through two recent impacts
brought us through two recent impacts
brought us through two recent impacts you can see some some old markings of
you can see some some old markings of
you can see some some old markings of people that card their names a hundred
people that card their names a hundred
people that card their names a hundred years ago and they basically got us back
years ago and they basically got us back
years ago and they basically got us back on track to our initial mission
”
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