I had a lot of attempts on k2 six summit attempts I cannot explain why I decided
attempts I cannot explain why I decided
attempts I cannot explain why I decided to continue climbing but there was the
to continue climbing but there was the
to continue climbing but there was the big big willpower to climb up to the top
thank you very much thank you very much
thank you very much thank you very much with k2 I have a very very special
with k2 I have a very very special
with k2 I have a very very special relationship since many years because I
relationship since many years because I
relationship since many years because I had a lot of a lots of attempts on k2
had a lot of a lots of attempts on k2
had a lot of a lots of attempts on k2 six summit attempts I had from the south
six summit attempts I had from the south
six summit attempts I had from the south side we have chosen always the very
side we have chosen always the very
side we have chosen always the very direct line the so called
direct line the so called
direct line the so called chasin route up to the shoulder in 2007
chasin route up to the shoulder in 2007
chasin route up to the shoulder in 2007 on one expedition we had two summit
on one expedition we had two summit
on one expedition we had two summit attempts but we had to return because of
attempts but we had to return because of
attempts but we had to return because of to turn back because of bad weather and
to turn back because of bad weather and
to turn back because of bad weather and in 2009 we tried again twice without
in 2009 we tried again twice without
in 2009 we tried again twice without success but we came down say if it was
success but we came down say if it was
success but we came down say if it was the most important and in 2010 I had
the most important and in 2010 I had
the most important and in 2010 I had again two summit attempt without success
again two summit attempt without success
again two summit attempt without success you see here on the right side is the
you see here on the right side is the
you see here on the right side is the so-called normal route a brute sea route
so-called normal route a brute sea route
so-called normal route a brute sea route who leads up to the shoulder and on the
who leads up to the shoulder and on the
who leads up to the shoulder and on the shoulder a little bit lower than 8,000
shoulder a little bit lower than 8,000
shoulder a little bit lower than 8,000 meter the two routes comes together and
meter the two routes comes together and
meter the two routes comes together and the last 600 meters are the same way up
the last 600 meters are the same way up
the last 600 meters are the same way up to the highest point my husband arrived
to the highest point my husband arrived
to the highest point my husband arrived he climbed k2 already in 1994 he had
he climbed k2 already in 1994 he had
he climbed k2 already in 1994 he had only one summit attempt and immediate
only one summit attempt and immediate
only one summit attempt and immediate and he could reach the summit
and he could reach the summit
and he could reach the summit immediately he was very lucky with the
immediately he was very lucky with the
immediately he was very lucky with the weather and of course very strong yes in
weather and of course very strong yes in
weather and of course very strong yes in 2010 on our second attempt erm our good
2010 on our second attempt erm our good
2010 on our second attempt erm our good friend fell down from the bottleneck
friend fell down from the bottleneck
friend fell down from the bottleneck more than 1000 meter and immediately
more than 1000 meter and immediately
more than 1000 meter and immediately after we stopped this expedition I
after we stopped this expedition I
after we stopped this expedition I didn’t know if I would ever come back to
didn’t know if I would ever come back to
didn’t know if I would ever come back to this mountain I had just a feeling that
this mountain I had just a feeling that
this mountain I had just a feeling that I need a big distance now and only think
I need a big distance now and only think
I need a big distance now and only think thing who helped me was that I could
thing who helped me was that I could
thing who helped me was that I could talk with ryf we had very long talk
talk with ryf we had very long talk
talk with ryf we had very long talk I felt that the feeling the body feeling
I felt that the feeling the body feeling
I felt that the feeling the body feeling for k2 comes back I cannot explain why
for k2 comes back I cannot explain why
for k2 comes back I cannot explain why but there was the big wish to go back to
but there was the big wish to go back to
but there was the big wish to go back to k2 and I told Ralph can you understand
k2 and I told Ralph can you understand
k2 and I told Ralph can you understand that I would like to try again climbing
that I would like to try again climbing
that I would like to try again climbing k2 and he could understand first he told
k2 and he could understand first he told
k2 and he could understand first he told me but please accept that I will not
me but please accept that I will not
me but please accept that I will not join you because I climbed already and
join you because I climbed already and
join you because I climbed already and now it’s enough for me and then I also
now it’s enough for me and then I also
now it’s enough for me and then I also felt that if I would like to go back
felt that if I would like to go back
felt that if I would like to go back then I would learn about another route
then I would learn about another route
then I would learn about another route and so I decided to go to the north side
and so I decided to go to the north side
and so I decided to go to the north side of k2 to try the North pillar and when I
of k2 to try the North pillar and when I
of k2 to try the North pillar and when I told this Ralph then immediately he told
told this Ralph then immediately he told
told this Ralph then immediately he told me calendar if you try to North Billa I
me calendar if you try to North Billa I
me calendar if you try to North Billa I will come with you and everybody can
will come with you and everybody can
will come with you and everybody can imagine how happy I was here I show you
imagine how happy I was here I show you
imagine how happy I was here I show you an animation from the German Earth’s
an animation from the German Earth’s
an animation from the German Earth’s observation center you fly more
observation center you fly more
observation center you fly more less-lethal around
less-lethal around
less-lethal around k2 and it was so helpful for us during
k2 and it was so helpful for us during
k2 and it was so helpful for us during our preparation we could see the whole
our preparation we could see the whole
our preparation we could see the whole North below we could imagine where it
North below we could imagine where it
North below we could imagine where it would be possible to establish a tent
would be possible to establish a tent
would be possible to establish a tent and the most important was that we could
and the most important was that we could
and the most important was that we could see how long will be the summit reach
see how long will be the summit reach
see how long will be the summit reach its very mentally it’s very important to
its very mentally it’s very important to
its very mentally it’s very important to be prepared that up there and one day
be prepared that up there and one day
be prepared that up there and one day our meteorologists told us maybe that
our meteorologists told us maybe that
our meteorologists told us maybe that 21st of August could be a perfect day
21st of August could be a perfect day
21st of August could be a perfect day for you but the days before are not very
for you but the days before are not very
for you but the days before are not very stable so we decided to start into bad
stable so we decided to start into bad
stable so we decided to start into bad weather and we went up to camp one where
weather and we went up to camp one where
weather and we went up to camp one where we had to shovel out the
we had to shovel out the
we had to shovel out the hence it was a lot of snow over there
hence it was a lot of snow over there
hence it was a lot of snow over there and it was so much snow that we had to
and it was so much snow that we had to
and it was so much snow that we had to stay one day and luckily the next day we
stay one day and luckily the next day we
stay one day and luckily the next day we had some hours of sunshine so all the
had some hours of sunshine so all the
had some hours of sunshine so all the big avalanches came down and this was
big avalanches came down and this was
big avalanches came down and this was the most important for us we were
the most important for us we were
the most important for us we were convinced that the next morning we will
convinced that the next morning we will
convinced that the next morning we will get quite stable weather that we can
get quite stable weather that we can
get quite stable weather that we can continue climbing up to came to but
continue climbing up to came to but
continue climbing up to came to but during the night it was around midnight
during the night it was around midnight
during the night it was around midnight the snowfall started again and at 5 o
the snowfall started again and at 5 o
the snowfall started again and at 5 o clock when we left them our tent we had
clock when we left them our tent we had
clock when we left them our tent we had already quite a lot of snow and then
already quite a lot of snow and then
already quite a lot of snow and then came the very difficult moment where my
came the very difficult moment where my
came the very difficult moment where my husband Ralph he was just behind me told
husband Ralph he was just behind me told
husband Ralph he was just behind me told me calendar now I stopped climbing it’s
me calendar now I stopped climbing it’s
me calendar now I stopped climbing it’s too risky for me and I have no more a
too risky for me and I have no more a
too risky for me and I have no more a good gut feeling I have to return and
good gut feeling I have to return and
good gut feeling I have to return and until this moment I was so convinced so
until this moment I was so convinced so
until this moment I was so convinced so sure that I will try to gather with ryf
sure that I will try to gather with ryf
sure that I will try to gather with ryf also with the others to reach the top of
also with the others to reach the top of
also with the others to reach the top of k2 and in that moment everything turned
k2 and in that moment everything turned
k2 and in that moment everything turned around but we had this situation already
around but we had this situation already
around but we had this situation already some years ago we were discussing about
some years ago we were discussing about
some years ago we were discussing about situations like this and we decided that
situations like this and we decided that
situations like this and we decided that if each of us is healthy and strong
if each of us is healthy and strong
if each of us is healthy and strong enough he can decide by himself and so
enough he can decide by himself and so
enough he can decide by himself and so Raph did not ask me in the first moment
Raph did not ask me in the first moment
Raph did not ask me in the first moment to turn back but I also did not ask him
to turn back but I also did not ask him
to turn back but I also did not ask him please join me so it was very important
please join me so it was very important
please join me so it was very important that we accepted each other’s decision
that we accepted each other’s decision
that we accepted each other’s decision the weather did not improve
the weather did not improve
the weather did not improve we had still snowfall the next day but
we had still snowfall the next day but
we had still snowfall the next day but now the route became so steep that it
now the route became so steep that it
now the route became so steep that it was no more LM stranger and finally in
was no more LM stranger and finally in
was no more LM stranger and finally in the late afternoon we reached the place
the late afternoon we reached the place
the late afternoon we reached the place where we shoveled out a small platform
where we shoveled out a small platform
where we shoveled out a small platform and this was now the first time after
and this was now the first time after
and this was now the first time after two days that I could speak again with
two days that I could speak again with
two days that I could speak again with my husband with Ralph he was very much
my husband with Ralph he was very much
my husband with Ralph he was very much worried about us
worried about us
worried about us you see we climbed up to 7000 300 meters
you see we climbed up to 7000 300 meters
you see we climbed up to 7000 300 meters and it was quite cold but then on 7300
and it was quite cold but then on 7300
and it was quite cold but then on 7300 in the evening finally the wind
in the evening finally the wind
in the evening finally the wind decreased and we had a good night we
decreased and we had a good night we
decreased and we had a good night we could sleep over there we could recover
could sleep over there we could recover
could sleep over there we could recover a little bit and I spoke again with
a little bit and I spoke again with
a little bit and I spoke again with Ralph by walkie-talkie and he told us
Ralph by walkie-talkie and he told us
Ralph by walkie-talkie and he told us Kalina the next day will be good I’m
Kalina the next day will be good I’m
Kalina the next day will be good I’m very sure about this and I was just
very sure about this and I was just
very sure about this and I was just happy I was so motivated and I saw also
happy I was so motivated and I saw also
happy I was so motivated and I saw also that in the upper part that strong very
that in the upper part that strong very
that in the upper part that strong very strong wind has blown away all the snow
strong wind has blown away all the snow
strong wind has blown away all the snow and so we found perfect conditions we
and so we found perfect conditions we
and so we found perfect conditions we moved up to 8,000 meter very quick and
moved up to 8,000 meter very quick and
moved up to 8,000 meter very quick and it was just fantastic not one cloud on
it was just fantastic not one cloud on
it was just fantastic not one cloud on the on the sky and we could see all the
the on the sky and we could see all the
the on the sky and we could see all the cool new mountains and also in this
cool new mountains and also in this
cool new mountains and also in this moment I felt that I get a lot of energy
moment I felt that I get a lot of energy
moment I felt that I get a lot of energy back from this great nature the next
back from this great nature the next
back from this great nature the next morning we started right early from our
morning we started right early from our
morning we started right early from our last camp at 8000 meter we had a
last camp at 8000 meter we had a
last camp at 8000 meter we had a fantastic day the weather was just
fantastic day the weather was just
fantastic day the weather was just perfect only few days you can find
perfect only few days you can find
perfect only few days you can find weather like this especially on k2 but
weather like this especially on k2 but
weather like this especially on k2 but then we are confronted with a lot of
then we are confronted with a lot of
then we are confronted with a lot of so-called spindrift it’s a very soft
so-called spindrift it’s a very soft
so-called spindrift it’s a very soft loose snow who comes down by from from
loose snow who comes down by from from
loose snow who comes down by from from the summit part
the summit part
the summit part and sometimes it’s quite difficult to to
and sometimes it’s quite difficult to to
and sometimes it’s quite difficult to to keep the balance and then we tried to
keep the balance and then we tried to
keep the balance and then we tried to cross the Japanese kahlúa and when we
cross the Japanese kahlúa and when we
cross the Japanese kahlúa and when we tried to cross we found snow up to the
tried to cross we found snow up to the
tried to cross we found snow up to the waist and it was just too dangerous to
waist and it was just too dangerous to
waist and it was just too dangerous to traverse a at that point I called again
traverse a at that point I called again
traverse a at that point I called again Ralf by walkie-talkie I explained him
Ralf by walkie-talkie I explained him
Ralf by walkie-talkie I explained him our big problem it seemed that we had
our big problem it seemed that we had
our big problem it seemed that we had have to turn back but rifle had seen by
have to turn back but rifle had seen by
have to turn back but rifle had seen by the with the binocular that there is a
the with the binocular that there is a
the with the binocular that there is a big crevasse who leads from the very
big crevasse who leads from the very
big crevasse who leads from the very right side far to the left side and he
right side far to the left side and he
right side far to the left side and he told us we have to climb just below this
told us we have to climb just below this
told us we have to climb just below this Grievous it would be possible and you
Grievous it would be possible and you
Grievous it would be possible and you can see it was possible we found less
can see it was possible we found less
can see it was possible we found less snow and there was no more avalanche
snow and there was no more avalanche
snow and there was no more avalanche danger but nevertheless we moved them
danger but nevertheless we moved them
danger but nevertheless we moved them far too slow we saw that at in during
far too slow we saw that at in during
far too slow we saw that at in during this day it would not be possible to
this day it would not be possible to
this day it would not be possible to reach the top to reach the highest point
reach the top to reach the highest point
reach the top to reach the highest point and on 8000 meter there’s only one
and on 8000 meter there’s only one
and on 8000 meter there’s only one threat of oxygen pressure left and we
threat of oxygen pressure left and we
threat of oxygen pressure left and we all were not acclimatized we were not
all were not acclimatized we were not
all were not acclimatized we were not adapted on the low oxygen pressure so we
adapted on the low oxygen pressure so we
adapted on the low oxygen pressure so we decided to find a quite safe P work
decided to find a quite safe P work
decided to find a quite safe P work place over there first we had to cross
place over there first we had to cross
place over there first we had to cross this ice wall and we climbed up to
this ice wall and we climbed up to
this ice wall and we climbed up to around eight thousand three hundred
around eight thousand three hundred
around eight thousand three hundred metres at once right in the morning we
metres at once right in the morning we
metres at once right in the morning we climbed up some meters maybe around 4050
climbed up some meters maybe around 4050
climbed up some meters maybe around 4050 meter I don’t know anymore exactly but
meter I don’t know anymore exactly but
meter I don’t know anymore exactly but it was so cold that we couldn’t feel our
it was so cold that we couldn’t feel our
it was so cold that we couldn’t feel our fingers and feet and so we had to turn
fingers and feet and so we had to turn
fingers and feet and so we had to turn back to our small Buick tent we went
back to our small Buick tent we went
back to our small Buick tent we went inside again and we decided to wait on
inside again and we decided to wait on
inside again and we decided to wait on in the morning time then we will have
in the morning time then we will have
in the morning time then we will have maybe warmer temperature we left our be
maybe warmer temperature we left our be
maybe warmer temperature we left our be workplace at 8 o clock in the morning we
workplace at 8 o clock in the morning we
workplace at 8 o clock in the morning we knew that it is really late but we were
knew that it is really late but we were
knew that it is really late but we were prepared for 10:00 just some meters
prepared for 10:00 just some meters
prepared for 10:00 just some meters apart we found again snow until our
apart we found again snow until our
apart we found again snow until our waist and we try to break trail in three
waist and we try to break trail in three
waist and we try to break trail in three different directions but it was not
different directions but it was not
different directions but it was not possible to move ahead and maybe you can
possible to move ahead and maybe you can
possible to move ahead and maybe you can imagine for 30 altitude meters we needed
imagine for 30 altitude meters we needed
imagine for 30 altitude meters we needed around three hours maybe it’s difficult
around three hours maybe it’s difficult
around three hours maybe it’s difficult to understand what we are doing up there
to understand what we are doing up there
to understand what we are doing up there but there was the big picture willpower
but there was the big picture willpower
but there was the big picture willpower to climb up to the top and the weather
to climb up to the top and the weather
to climb up to the top and the weather was still perfect so we continued
was still perfect so we continued
was still perfect so we continued climbing and this was a part where we
climbing and this was a part where we
climbing and this was a part where we were quite fast but only few meters we
were quite fast but only few meters we
were quite fast but only few meters we had conditions like this and then we
had conditions like this and then we
had conditions like this and then we found the very heavy snow and here we
found the very heavy snow and here we
found the very heavy snow and here we are already a puffed a very difficult
are already a puffed a very difficult
are already a puffed a very difficult part and these are the last meters now
part and these are the last meters now
part and these are the last meters now up to the snow Ridge and on the snow
up to the snow Ridge and on the snow
up to the snow Ridge and on the snow ridge we found again perfect conditions
ridge we found again perfect conditions
ridge we found again perfect conditions and in this moment a very very strong
and in this moment a very very strong
and in this moment a very very strong feeling came up and gave us a lot of
feeling came up and gave us a lot of
feeling came up and gave us a lot of power then it was so emotional for me to
power then it was so emotional for me to
power then it was so emotional for me to do the last steps up to the top of k2 it
do the last steps up to the top of k2 it
do the last steps up to the top of k2 it was a long life dream came true with
was a long life dream came true with
was a long life dream came true with this moment it was just so emotional I
this moment it was just so emotional I
this moment it was just so emotional I felt that it was like a big big present
felt that it was like a big big present
felt that it was like a big big present from the whole universe we reached the
from the whole universe we reached the
from the whole universe we reached the top but it was a big success from the
top but it was a big success from the
top but it was a big success from the whole team all these together make made
whole team all these together make made
whole team all these together make made it that we had a great great success and
it that we had a great great success and
it that we had a great great success and once again thank you very much to all of
once again thank you very much to all of
once again thank you very much to all of you thank you very much
”
Be First to Comment