
I covered the war in southern Iraq as a journalist but never set foot in the
journalist but never set foot in the
journalist but never set foot in the north until after the Americans had gone
north until after the Americans had gone
north until after the Americans had gone I couldn’t believe it was the same
I couldn’t believe it was the same
I couldn’t believe it was the same country the city of Suleiman iya is a
country the city of Suleiman iya is a
country the city of Suleiman iya is a liberal island in a region flooded with
liberal island in a region flooded with
liberal island in a region flooded with extremism enemies are all around
extremism enemies are all around
extremism enemies are all around Isis is just two hours away
Isis is just two hours away
Isis is just two hours away my name is Neel che and I’m a writer
my name is Neel che and I’m a writer
my name is Neel che and I’m a writer with National Geographic magazine I’m on
with National Geographic magazine I’m on
with National Geographic magazine I’m on assignment in northern Iraq for a story
assignment in northern Iraq for a story
assignment in northern Iraq for a story on the Kurds a Muslim minority and a
on the Kurds a Muslim minority and a
on the Kurds a Muslim minority and a crucial Western ally in the battle
crucial Western ally in the battle
crucial Western ally in the battle against Isis the Kurds are an ancient
against Isis the Kurds are an ancient
against Isis the Kurds are an ancient people with their own language and
people with their own language and
people with their own language and culture and today they’re scattered
culture and today they’re scattered
culture and today they’re scattered across Turkey Iran Syria and Iraq here
across Turkey Iran Syria and Iraq here
across Turkey Iran Syria and Iraq here in Iraq the Kurds control a territory
in Iraq the Kurds control a territory
in Iraq the Kurds control a territory the size of Switzerland and though they
the size of Switzerland and though they
the size of Switzerland and though they officially remain part of Iraq they have
officially remain part of Iraq they have
officially remain part of Iraq they have their own president their own Parliament
their own president their own Parliament
their own president their own Parliament and their own moderate form of Islamic
and their own moderate form of Islamic
and their own moderate form of Islamic democracy all of that is now under
democracy all of that is now under
democracy all of that is now under threat
it’s a couple hours before sunrise we’re
it’s a couple hours before sunrise we’re gonna meet up with an Iraqi police unit
gonna meet up with an Iraqi police unit
gonna meet up with an Iraqi police unit that’s going out looking for Isis
that’s going out looking for Isis
that’s going out looking for Isis fighters around the city of Kirkuk
fighters around the city of Kirkuk
fighters around the city of Kirkuk I’m leaving the safety of sulemani and
I’m leaving the safety of sulemani and
I’m leaving the safety of sulemani and heading south toward kir cook toward
heading south toward kir cook toward
heading south toward kir cook toward isis-held territory and a police
isis-held territory and a police
isis-held territory and a police commander charged with keeping the city
commander charged with keeping the city
commander charged with keeping the city safe from jihadis power is my friend and
safe from jihadis power is my friend and
safe from jihadis power is my friend and my fixer
my fixer
my fixer he’s a Kurdish photojournalist who’s
he’s a Kurdish photojournalist who’s
he’s a Kurdish photojournalist who’s helping me chase leads and meet the
helping me chase leads and meet the
helping me chase leads and meet the right people he was also born and raised
right people he was also born and raised
right people he was also born and raised in Kirkuk and he’s lived through all the
in Kirkuk and he’s lived through all the
in Kirkuk and he’s lived through all the recent Wars it’s the time of wild dogs
recent Wars it’s the time of wild dogs
recent Wars it’s the time of wild dogs in the city this is when they feel free
in the city this is when they feel free
in the city this is when they feel free to roam here cook is an oil-rich city in
to roam here cook is an oil-rich city in
to roam here cook is an oil-rich city in the middle of Iraq and it’s also the
the middle of Iraq and it’s also the
the middle of Iraq and it’s also the country’s melting pot in care cooks
country’s melting pot in care cooks
country’s melting pot in care cooks dense neighborhoods Christians live
dense neighborhoods Christians live
dense neighborhoods Christians live beside Muslims Kurds live beside Arabs
beside Muslims Kurds live beside Arabs
beside Muslims Kurds live beside Arabs and everyone lives just a few miles from
and everyone lives just a few miles from
and everyone lives just a few miles from Isis in 2014 the Kurds stepped up to
Isis in 2014 the Kurds stepped up to
Isis in 2014 the Kurds stepped up to stop militants from capturing Kirkuk but
stop militants from capturing Kirkuk but
stop militants from capturing Kirkuk but fear still stains everything here
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