it was early May and it was 40 below zero and I was on top of the world I was
zero and I was on top of the world I was
zero and I was on top of the world I was standing at the North Pole and what many
standing at the North Pole and what many
standing at the North Pole and what many people don’t understand about the North
people don’t understand about the North
people don’t understand about the North Pole is it’s just ice there’s no land
Pole is it’s just ice there’s no land
Pole is it’s just ice there’s no land it’s not like Antarctica where there’s
it’s not like Antarctica where there’s
it’s not like Antarctica where there’s land and there’s there’s no research
land and there’s there’s no research
land and there’s there’s no research stations there there’s no flag there’s
stations there there’s no flag there’s
stations there there’s no flag there’s no landing strip
no landing strip
no landing strip there’s no generators no tents nothing
there’s no generators no tents nothing
there’s no generators no tents nothing no Santa’s workshop it’s some it’s just
no Santa’s workshop it’s some it’s just
no Santa’s workshop it’s some it’s just ice and snow and the only way you know
ice and snow and the only way you know
ice and snow and the only way you know you’re there is your GPS tells you that
you’re there is your GPS tells you that
you’re there is your GPS tells you that you’re there it’s 90 degrees north you
you’re there it’s 90 degrees north you
you’re there it’s 90 degrees north you can’t move in any direction without
can’t move in any direction without
can’t move in any direction without going south it’s 90 degrees north and
going south it’s 90 degrees north and
going south it’s 90 degrees north and the thing is the ice is always moving
the thing is the ice is always moving
the thing is the ice is always moving sometimes as much as 3 feet per second
sometimes as much as 3 feet per second
sometimes as much as 3 feet per second and so you’re there on top of the North
and so you’re there on top of the North
and so you’re there on top of the North Pole and then it’s over there the ice is
Pole and then it’s over there the ice is
Pole and then it’s over there the ice is always moving which can be incredibly
always moving which can be incredibly
always moving which can be incredibly frustrating when you’re trying to get to
frustrating when you’re trying to get to
frustrating when you’re trying to get to the pole
so all day long you’re dragging your
so all day long you’re dragging your sled you’re skiing or walking or
sled you’re skiing or walking or
sled you’re skiing or walking or whatever it is and making great strides
whatever it is and making great strides
whatever it is and making great strides and you look at your GPS and you realize
and you look at your GPS and you realize
and you look at your GPS and you realize you’ve made no progress at all the ice
you’ve made no progress at all the ice
you’ve made no progress at all the ice has been moving south faster than you’ve
has been moving south faster than you’ve
has been moving south faster than you’ve been moving north frustrating it gets
been moving north frustrating it gets
been moving north frustrating it gets worse some days the ice is moving faster
worse some days the ice is moving faster
worse some days the ice is moving faster than you’re moving north and so you’re
than you’re moving north and so you’re
than you’re moving north and so you’re actually lose ground at which point you
actually lose ground at which point you
actually lose ground at which point you say okay time to put up the tent but
say okay time to put up the tent but
say okay time to put up the tent but what time is it you have no idea it’s
what time is it you have no idea it’s
what time is it you have no idea it’s the North Pole that’s where time zones
the North Pole that’s where time zones
the North Pole that’s where time zones converge it can be any time you want it
converge it can be any time you want it
converge it can be any time you want it to be if it’s not a total whiteout which
to be if it’s not a total whiteout which
to be if it’s not a total whiteout which it usually is you can try to get your
it usually is you can try to get your
it usually is you can try to get your bearings by looking up at the Sun which
bearings by looking up at the Sun which
bearings by looking up at the Sun which turns a perfect circle over your head
turns a perfect circle over your head
turns a perfect circle over your head day after day after day I’m crazy enough
day after day after day I’m crazy enough
day after day after day I’m crazy enough to have had this experience more than
to have had this experience more than
to have had this experience more than once I’ve been to the North Pole twice
once I’ve been to the North Pole twice
once I’ve been to the North Pole twice I’m telling you this because the North
I’m telling you this because the North
I’m telling you this because the North Pole is emblematic of the Arctic whether
Pole is emblematic of the Arctic whether
Pole is emblematic of the Arctic whether it’s Russia or Barrow Alaska or Norway
it’s Russia or Barrow Alaska or Norway
it’s Russia or Barrow Alaska or Norway there’s something strangely compelling
there’s something strangely compelling
there’s something strangely compelling about it on the one hand it’s violent
about it on the one hand it’s violent
about it on the one hand it’s violent it’s cold its extreme its harsh and on
it’s cold its extreme its harsh and on
it’s cold its extreme its harsh and on the other it’s really delicate and
the other it’s really delicate and
the other it’s really delicate and really fragile and pure and absolutely
really fragile and pure and absolutely
really fragile and pure and absolutely beautiful ten years separated my first
beautiful ten years separated my first
beautiful ten years separated my first visit from my second and the change was
visit from my second and the change was
visit from my second and the change was profound my first visit was traveling
profound my first visit was traveling
profound my first visit was traveling through the ice and up and over pressure
through the ice and up and over pressure
through the ice and up and over pressure ridges like this one pressure ridges are
ridges like this one pressure ridges are
ridges like this one pressure ridges are multi-year ice giant buildings sized
multi-year ice giant buildings sized
multi-year ice giant buildings sized blocks of ice that you have to kick off
blocks of ice that you have to kick off
blocks of ice that you have to kick off your skis and crawl over and drag your
your skis and crawl over and drag your
your skis and crawl over and drag your sled these are the pieces of ice that
sled these are the pieces of ice that
sled these are the pieces of ice that polar bears like to hang out on my
polar bears like to hang out on my
polar bears like to hang out on my second visit no pressure ridges
second visit no pressure ridges
second visit no pressure ridges none it was all open
none it was all open
none it was all open leads open water we spent most of our
leads open water we spent most of our
leads open water we spent most of our time just trying to figure out which way
time just trying to figure out which way
time just trying to figure out which way to go to get around them and worried
to go to get around them and worried
to go to get around them and worried about whether camp was gonna break up
about whether camp was gonna break up
about whether camp was gonna break up beneath us so I’m a journalist and I’ve
beneath us so I’m a journalist and I’ve
beneath us so I’m a journalist and I’ve covered a lot of stories in my career
covered a lot of stories in my career
covered a lot of stories in my career I’ve covered more presidential campaigns
I’ve covered more presidential campaigns
I’ve covered more presidential campaigns than I care to remember
than I care to remember
than I care to remember nuff said about that I’ve covered snow
nuff said about that I’ve covered snow
nuff said about that I’ve covered snow leopards in Mongolia medicinal plants
leopards in Mongolia medicinal plants
leopards in Mongolia medicinal plants and Tibet I’ve covered what’s in george
and Tibet I’ve covered what’s in george
and Tibet I’ve covered what’s in george w bush’s top desk drawer what kind of
w bush’s top desk drawer what kind of
w bush’s top desk drawer what kind of shoes the Supreme Court justices where
shoes the Supreme Court justices where
shoes the Supreme Court justices where some of it totally arcane some of it
some of it totally arcane some of it
some of it totally arcane some of it vitally important but I have never
vitally important but I have never
vitally important but I have never covered a story this compelling never
covered a story this compelling never
covered a story this compelling never you’ve heard all about it you’ve heard
you’ve heard all about it you’ve heard
you’ve heard all about it you’ve heard about the receding glaciers you’ve heard
about the receding glaciers you’ve heard
about the receding glaciers you’ve heard about melting permafrost thinning ice
about melting permafrost thinning ice
about melting permafrost thinning ice some of you are probably even steeped in
some of you are probably even steeped in
some of you are probably even steeped in the scientific jargon carbon
the scientific jargon carbon
the scientific jargon carbon sequestration the albedo effect ocean
sequestration the albedo effect ocean
sequestration the albedo effect ocean acidification so much so that is
acidification so much so that is
acidification so much so that is becoming numb and that numbing is a
becoming numb and that numbing is a
becoming numb and that numbing is a problem I’m a journalist and my job is
problem I’m a journalist and my job is
problem I’m a journalist and my job is to seek the truth bear witness and
to seek the truth bear witness and
to seek the truth bear witness and report it and a lot of us are doing that
report it and a lot of us are doing that
report it and a lot of us are doing that but people already have stopped
but people already have stopped
but people already have stopped listening so I’ve been trying to figure
listening so I’ve been trying to figure
listening so I’ve been trying to figure out what I can do as a journalist and
out what I can do as a journalist and
out what I can do as a journalist and I’ve been thinking the best thing I can
I’ve been thinking the best thing I can
I’ve been thinking the best thing I can do is try to put a face on it try to put
do is try to put a face on it try to put
do is try to put a face on it try to put a face on the Arctic humanize it my
a face on the Arctic humanize it my
a face on the Arctic humanize it my partner he is a geologist and he thinks
partner he is a geologist and he thinks
partner he is a geologist and he thinks of life in millions of years
of life in millions of years
of life in millions of years he likes to mess with my head and he
he likes to mess with my head and he
he likes to mess with my head and he says climate change the earth will be
says climate change the earth will be
says climate change the earth will be fine
fine
fine people are screwed
but I like people I am people people are
but I like people I am people people are fun four million people live in the
fun four million people live in the
fun four million people live in the Arctic one person per square mile
Arctic one person per square mile
Arctic one person per square mile their world is changing and it’s about
their world is changing and it’s about
their world is changing and it’s about to change even more nations and not just
to change even more nations and not just
to change even more nations and not just the seven nations that our Arctic
the seven nations that our Arctic
the seven nations that our Arctic nations of which we are one by the way
nations of which we are one by the way
nations of which we are one by the way are racing to build ice breakers like
are racing to build ice breakers like
are racing to build ice breakers like this one get to the Arctic and claim the
this one get to the Arctic and claim the
this one get to the Arctic and claim the resources there
resources there
resources there oil gas minerals marine mammals fish and
oil gas minerals marine mammals fish and
oil gas minerals marine mammals fish and as this ice thins and the water opens up
as this ice thins and the water opens up
as this ice thins and the water opens up this vessel traffic brings with it
this vessel traffic brings with it
this vessel traffic brings with it environmental problems invasive species
environmental problems invasive species
environmental problems invasive species contaminants emissions Antarctica on the
contaminants emissions Antarctica on the
contaminants emissions Antarctica on the other side of the world has an
other side of the world has an
other side of the world has an international treaty in place it bans
international treaty in place it bans
international treaty in place it bans oil and gas development it bans military
oil and gas development it bans military
oil and gas development it bans military operations has strict environmental
operations has strict environmental
operations has strict environmental protections in place the Arctic right
protections in place the Arctic right
protections in place the Arctic right now has nothing like that the four
now has nothing like that the four
now has nothing like that the four million people have no protections in
million people have no protections in
million people have no protections in place under one unified law who are
place under one unified law who are
place under one unified law who are these people
these people
these people this is Vasily Barron nuke he’s Russian
this is Vasily Barron nuke he’s Russian
this is Vasily Barron nuke he’s Russian he studies snow geese he has for 30
he studies snow geese he has for 30
he studies snow geese he has for 30 years on an island North if you can
years on an island North if you can
years on an island North if you can believe at an island north of Siberia
believe at an island north of Siberia
believe at an island north of Siberia Wrangel Island it’s just in the summer
Wrangel Island it’s just in the summer
Wrangel Island it’s just in the summer in the spring it’s just Vasily and the
in the spring it’s just Vasily and the
in the spring it’s just Vasily and the polar bears he studies snow geese
polar bears he studies snow geese
polar bears he studies snow geese migration and he’s been getting his
migration and he’s been getting his
migration and he’s been getting his drinking water from the same stream for
drinking water from the same stream for
drinking water from the same stream for the 30 years but thawing permafrost is
the 30 years but thawing permafrost is
the 30 years but thawing permafrost is leeching so much into his stream where
leeching so much into his stream where
leeching so much into his stream where he gets his drinking water it’s no
he gets his drinking water it’s no
he gets his drinking water it’s no longer drinkable this is Shane Nakia
longer drinkable this is Shane Nakia
longer drinkable this is Shane Nakia he’s eight years old he is Siberian
he’s eight years old he is Siberian
he’s eight years old he is Siberian Yupik
Yupik
Yupik and he lives on st. Lawrence Island in a
and he lives on st. Lawrence Island in a
and he lives on st. Lawrence Island in a village called Savoonga st. Lawrence
village called Savoonga st. Lawrence
village called Savoonga st. Lawrence Island is halfway between Russia and
Island is halfway between Russia and
Island is halfway between Russia and Alaska it’s in the Bering Sea his dad
Alaska it’s in the Bering Sea his dad
Alaska it’s in the Bering Sea his dad and
and
and the men of the village for thousands of
the men of the village for thousands of
the men of the village for thousands of years have been hunting seals and walrus
years have been hunting seals and walrus
years have been hunting seals and walrus to put on the table for food but
to put on the table for food but
to put on the table for food but thinning ice has meant that’s much more
thinning ice has meant that’s much more
thinning ice has meant that’s much more difficult and much more dangerous to do
difficult and much more dangerous to do
difficult and much more dangerous to do this is phi ena goods
this is phi ena goods
this is phi ena goods she’s chip Chi and she is of a family of
she’s chip Chi and she is of a family of
she’s chip Chi and she is of a family of reindeer herders nomadic reindeer
reindeer herders nomadic reindeer
reindeer herders nomadic reindeer herders mostly off the coast of Chukotka
herders mostly off the coast of Chukotka
herders mostly off the coast of Chukotka but worming summers and longer summers
but worming summers and longer summers
but worming summers and longer summers have meant invasive plants are coming in
have meant invasive plants are coming in
have meant invasive plants are coming in and other plants are crowding out the
and other plants are crowding out the
and other plants are crowding out the lichens that the reindeer eat and the
lichens that the reindeer eat and the
lichens that the reindeer eat and the berries and the plants that she harvests
berries and the plants that she harvests
berries and the plants that she harvests which are her only source of vitamin C
which are her only source of vitamin C
which are her only source of vitamin C these people are good people they have
these people are good people they have
these people are good people they have taken care of me they are resilient they
taken care of me they are resilient they
taken care of me they are resilient they are the least likely to contribute to
are the least likely to contribute to
are the least likely to contribute to climate change they are the most
climate change they are the most
climate change they are the most affected right now you may not harvest
affected right now you may not harvest
affected right now you may not harvest seals or pick berries for your daily
seals or pick berries for your daily
seals or pick berries for your daily dose of vitamin C but the consequences
dose of vitamin C but the consequences
dose of vitamin C but the consequences of what’s happening in the Arctic we
of what’s happening in the Arctic we
of what’s happening in the Arctic we will feel it’s ridiculous to think that
will feel it’s ridiculous to think that
will feel it’s ridiculous to think that the change that we’re driving ourselves
the change that we’re driving ourselves
the change that we’re driving ourselves isn’t going to affect us you’ve heard
isn’t going to affect us you’ve heard
isn’t going to affect us you’ve heard the numbers average American one year
the numbers average American one year
the numbers average American one year responsible for melting a chunk of ice
responsible for melting a chunk of ice
responsible for melting a chunk of ice 500 square feet
500 square feet
500 square feet that’s the size of this stage a huge
that’s the size of this stage a huge
that’s the size of this stage a huge chunk of ice about the size of the block
chunk of ice about the size of the block
chunk of ice about the size of the block of ice I was standing at the North Pole
of ice I was standing at the North Pole
of ice I was standing at the North Pole our president-elect has tweeted climate
our president-elect has tweeted climate
our president-elect has tweeted climate change is a hoax perpetuated by the
change is a hoax perpetuated by the
change is a hoax perpetuated by the Chinese to undermine business nous tweet
Chinese to undermine business nous tweet
Chinese to undermine business nous tweet well maybe I believe in climate change
well maybe I believe in climate change
well maybe I believe in climate change but it’s not named cost you know what
but it’s not named cost you know what
but it’s not named cost you know what that’s background noise it doesn’t even
that’s background noise it doesn’t even
that’s background noise it doesn’t even matter it’s already happening ocean
matter it’s already happening ocean
matter it’s already happening ocean acidification it’s affecting the
acidification it’s affecting the
acidification it’s affecting the shellfish and the oysters you eat right
shellfish and the oysters you eat right
shellfish and the oysters you eat right here in Seattle the change in the jet
here in Seattle the change in the jet
here in Seattle the change in the jet stream it’s affecting corn and wheat
stream it’s affecting corn and wheat
stream it’s affecting corn and wheat production in Kansas coastal erosion
production in Kansas coastal erosion
production in Kansas coastal erosion villages are slipping into the sea in
villages are slipping into the sea in
villages are slipping into the sea in Alaska threatening seaside resorts in
Alaska threatening seaside resorts in
Alaska threatening seaside resorts in New Jersey
New Jersey
New Jersey Vancouver’s reconsidering its waterfront
Vancouver’s reconsidering its waterfront
Vancouver’s reconsidering its waterfront plants birds bees trees fires droughts
plants birds bees trees fires droughts
plants birds bees trees fires droughts it’s all related it’s all connected and
it’s all related it’s all connected and
it’s all related it’s all connected and what’s happening in the Arctic is not
what’s happening in the Arctic is not
what’s happening in the Arctic is not staying in the Arctic which brings me to
staying in the Arctic which brings me to
staying in the Arctic which brings me to one last face and what a face
one last face and what a face
one last face and what a face this is Borg a ozland he’s Norwegian
this is Borg a ozland he’s Norwegian
this is Borg a ozland he’s Norwegian he’s an amazing polar explorer he’s like
he’s an amazing polar explorer he’s like
he’s an amazing polar explorer he’s like the polar explorer he’s been to the pole
the polar explorer he’s been to the pole
the polar explorer he’s been to the pole alle how many times he’s been at the
alle how many times he’s been at the
alle how many times he’s been at the pole he’s the first to go to the pole by
pole he’s the first to go to the pole by
pole he’s the first to go to the pole by himself unassisted then that wasn’t
himself unassisted then that wasn’t
himself unassisted then that wasn’t enough he decided to go by himself
enough he decided to go by himself
enough he decided to go by himself unassisted in winter total darkness I
unassisted in winter total darkness I
unassisted in winter total darkness I spoke to him when he was coming off the
spoke to him when he was coming off the
spoke to him when he was coming off the pole and he said to me traveling in the
pole and he said to me traveling in the
pole and he said to me traveling in the Arctic for him as a meditation it’s a
Arctic for him as a meditation it’s a
Arctic for him as a meditation it’s a mental thing and that he’s frightened
mental thing and that he’s frightened
mental thing and that he’s frightened scared by the change that he’s seen this
scared by the change that he’s seen this
scared by the change that he’s seen this is a man who swam across open leads of
is a man who swam across open leads of
is a man who swam across open leads of the Arctic Ocean pulling his sled behind
the Arctic Ocean pulling his sled behind
the Arctic Ocean pulling his sled behind him in total darkness he’s afraid of
him in total darkness he’s afraid of
him in total darkness he’s afraid of what’s happening to a place that he says
what’s happening to a place that he says
what’s happening to a place that he says he no longer recognizes I’m no Borg
he no longer recognizes I’m no Borg
he no longer recognizes I’m no Borg Island not even close
Island not even close
Island not even close I did buy the same boots he had because
I did buy the same boots he had because
I did buy the same boots he had because I thought maybe
my feet were still cold but I do respect
my feet were still cold but I do respect his idea that the Arctic is a meditation
his idea that the Arctic is a meditation
his idea that the Arctic is a meditation it’s a mental thing it’s a wonder and so
it’s a mental thing it’s a wonder and so
it’s a mental thing it’s a wonder and so many of you will never set foot in the
many of you will never set foot in the
many of you will never set foot in the Arctic you don’t have any desire to set
Arctic you don’t have any desire to set
Arctic you don’t have any desire to set foot in the Arctic but it’s still there
foot in the Arctic but it’s still there
foot in the Arctic but it’s still there it’s in your head you can sense it you
it’s in your head you can sense it you
it’s in your head you can sense it you can feel it the vastness the isolation
can feel it the vastness the isolation
can feel it the vastness the isolation the remoteness just the purity 60 years
the remoteness just the purity 60 years
the remoteness just the purity 60 years ago
ago
ago a woman named Mardy Murie she wanted to
a woman named Mardy Murie she wanted to
a woman named Mardy Murie she wanted to protect a tiny portion of the Arctic the
protect a tiny portion of the Arctic the
protect a tiny portion of the Arctic the Arctic National Wildlife Refuge in
Arctic National Wildlife Refuge in
Arctic National Wildlife Refuge in Alaska and she went to Congress and she
Alaska and she went to Congress and she
Alaska and she went to Congress and she said simply will we have the wisdom to
said simply will we have the wisdom to
said simply will we have the wisdom to cherish such places to leave such places
cherish such places to leave such places
cherish such places to leave such places in their natural state humbly and with
in their natural state humbly and with
in their natural state humbly and with appreciation
I’ve spent sleepless nights in the
I’ve spent sleepless nights in the Arctic crying myself to sleep chipping
Arctic crying myself to sleep chipping
Arctic crying myself to sleep chipping the ice off my eyelashes realizing I got
the ice off my eyelashes realizing I got
the ice off my eyelashes realizing I got to get out of the tent walk circles
to get out of the tent walk circles
to get out of the tent walk circles around it I’m not going to sleep just to
around it I’m not going to sleep just to
around it I’m not going to sleep just to stay warm
stay warm
stay warm just walking circles around the tent and
just walking circles around the tent and
just walking circles around the tent and when I’m home in my own bed just knowing
when I’m home in my own bed just knowing
when I’m home in my own bed just knowing the Arctic is out there intact in it’s
the Arctic is out there intact in it’s
the Arctic is out there intact in it’s terrifying beauty it’s how I get to
terrifying beauty it’s how I get to
terrifying beauty it’s how I get to sleep I hope that we have the wisdom to
sleep I hope that we have the wisdom to
sleep I hope that we have the wisdom to cherish such places with appreciation my
cherish such places with appreciation my
cherish such places with appreciation my hope is that we are greater than our own
hope is that we are greater than our own
hope is that we are greater than our own shortsightedness that we will alter the
shortsightedness that we will alter the
shortsightedness that we will alter the course that we’re on the Arctic matters
”
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