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From Sweden to Harlem: A Chef’s Journey | Nat Geo Live


welcome thank you do you mind if we talk

welcome thank you do you mind if we talk a little bit about your early years your

a little bit about your early years your

a little bit about your early years your early biography of you were adopted when

early biography of you were adopted when

early biography of you were adopted when you were three years old you and your

you were three years old you and your

you were three years old you and your sister after your mother had fallen ill

sister after your mother had fallen ill

sister after your mother had fallen ill in fact many many people in it Ethiopia

in fact many many people in it Ethiopia

in fact many many people in it Ethiopia had fallen out tuberculosis yeah most my

had fallen out tuberculosis yeah most my

had fallen out tuberculosis yeah most my mom my sister myself we had it and you

mom my sister myself we had it and you

mom my sister myself we had it and you know we lived out in the countryside and

know we lived out in the countryside and

know we lived out in the countryside and it was really my my mom and my sister

it was really my my mom and my sister

it was really my my mom and my sister that walked into a big Hospital my mom

that walked into a big Hospital my mom

that walked into a big Hospital my mom passed away my sister now we survived so

passed away my sister now we survived so

passed away my sister now we survived so talking about Sweden and talking about

talking about Sweden and talking about

talking about Sweden and talking about you are your adopted parents Ann Marie

you are your adopted parents Ann Marie

you are your adopted parents Ann Marie is your mother’s name and she wasn’t

is your mother’s name and she wasn’t

is your mother’s name and she wasn’t much of a cook was she a mom I was a

much of a cook was she a mom I was a

much of a cook was she a mom I was a horrible cook nice woman horrible comes

horrible cook nice woman horrible comes

horrible cook nice woman horrible comes her mother was a fantastic cook so what

her mother was a fantastic cook so what

her mother was a fantastic cook so what about your grandmother’s roast chicken

about your grandmother’s roast chicken

about your grandmother’s roast chicken what can we talk about yeah I mean Helga

what can we talk about yeah I mean Helga

what can we talk about yeah I mean Helga you know the funny thing with with the

you know the funny thing with with the

you know the funny thing with with the cooks that I know the cooks that I sort

cooks that I know the cooks that I sort

cooks that I know the cooks that I sort of admire that all came out of poverty

of admire that all came out of poverty

of admire that all came out of poverty when I think about but the you know they

when I think about but the you know they

when I think about but the you know they lived a rich life but I think about the

lived a rich life but I think about the

lived a rich life but I think about the cooks of madatha most of my life I think

cooks of madatha most of my life I think

cooks of madatha most of my life I think about a lady like Lea chased out in

about a lady like Lea chased out in

about a lady like Lea chased out in Orleans that sort of had the first

Orleans that sort of had the first

Orleans that sort of had the first integrated restaurant in this country

integrated restaurant in this country

integrated restaurant in this country and owned her own business since the

and owned her own business since the

and owned her own business since the forties in America and my grandmother

forties in America and my grandmother

forties in America and my grandmother you know they were born into poverty but

you know they were born into poverty but

you know they were born into poverty but they knew how to cook and so they ate

they knew how to cook and so they ate

they knew how to cook and so they ate well but maybe you know didn’t have what

well but maybe you know didn’t have what

well but maybe you know didn’t have what we think it was a lot of money and my

we think it was a lot of money and my

we think it was a lot of money and my grandmother’s cooking although when she

grandmother’s cooking although when she

grandmother’s cooking although when she passed away she was a middle-class

passed away she was a middle-class

passed away she was a middle-class Swedish woman that did you know that

Swedish woman that did you know that

Swedish woman that did you know that they did very well but a cooking came

they did very well but a cooking came

they did very well but a cooking came out of poverty that never changed her

out of poverty that never changed her

out of poverty that never changed her DNA on roasting chicken putting the

DNA on roasting chicken putting the

DNA on roasting chicken putting the vegetables on the knees letting the

vegetables on the knees letting the

vegetables on the knees letting the chicken fat trip in the next day have a

chicken fat trip in the next day have a

chicken fat trip in the next day have a chicken soup

chicken soup

chicken soup and maybe the third day having chicken

and maybe the third day having chicken

and maybe the third day having chicken dumpling you know so the way Julie are

dumpling you know so the way Julie are

dumpling you know so the way Julie are upset by threats that bird and always

upset by threats that bird and always

upset by threats that bird and always had broth on in the back you know she’s

had broth on in the back you know she’s

had broth on in the back you know she’s smart smart ladies you know she had also

smart smart ladies you know she had also

smart smart ladies you know she had also child labor she had all three running up

child labor she had all three running up

child labor she had all three running up and down taking care of the pantry and

and down taking care of the pantry and

and down taking care of the pantry and making like there was always when you

making like there was always when you

making like there was always when you enter a house you had to work there was

enter a house you had to work there was

enter a house you had to work there was always something going on now thinking

always something going on now thinking

always something going on now thinking about that chicken to what I thought was

about that chicken to what I thought was

about that chicken to what I thought was really interesting was that your

really interesting was that your

really interesting was that your grandmother instinctively knew something

grandmother instinctively knew something

grandmother instinctively knew something about the temperature that that chicken

about the temperature that that chicken

about the temperature that that chicken needed to be in the same way that chefs

needed to be in the same way that chefs

needed to be in the same way that chefs who are cooking a twenty seven dollar

who are cooking a twenty seven dollar

who are cooking a twenty seven dollar chicken today do the same thing but they

chicken today do the same thing but they

chicken today do the same thing but they do it in a different way can you talk

do it in a different way can you talk

do it in a different way can you talk about that a little bit you know the

about that a little bit you know the

about that a little bit you know the cooking is it’s like anything you do a

cooking is it’s like anything you do a

cooking is it’s like anything you do a lot it’s just instinct right it’s almost

lot it’s just instinct right it’s almost

lot it’s just instinct right it’s almost like a jazz musicians you know it some

like a jazz musicians you know it some

like a jazz musicians you know it some people come from it from a school some

people come from it from a school some

people come from it from a school some people were just born with it but when

people were just born with it but when

people were just born with it but when you add that concert or when you’re

you add that concert or when you’re

you add that concert or when you’re cooking it doesn’t really matter we’re

cooking it doesn’t really matter we’re

cooking it doesn’t really matter we’re here now and either you learn those

here now and either you learn those

here now and either you learn those muscles or you don’t

muscles or you don’t

muscles or you don’t my mom had this fancy electric oven my

my mom had this fancy electric oven my

my mom had this fancy electric oven my mom my grandmother never trusted that

mom my grandmother never trusted that

mom my grandmother never trusted that oven so thank you my grandmother she had

oven so thank you my grandmother she had

oven so thank you my grandmother she had an oven that we have to feed with word

an oven that we have to feed with word

an oven that we have to feed with word all the time so the just understanding

all the time so the just understanding

all the time so the just understanding how an oven works things like that that

how an oven works things like that that

how an oven works things like that that cooking school it’s not going to teach

cooking school it’s not going to teach

cooking school it’s not going to teach you that yeah

you that yeah

you that yeah cooking school is not going to teach how

cooking school is not going to teach how

cooking school is not going to teach how you taste something and you know she

you taste something and you know she

you taste something and you know she used to taste the sauce by pouring it

used to taste the sauce by pouring it

used to taste the sauce by pouring it straight into her hand and tasted like

straight into her hand and tasted like

straight into her hand and tasted like this right no there wasn’t you know so

this right no there wasn’t you know so

this right no there wasn’t you know so it’s stuff like that that you know you

it’s stuff like that that you know you

it’s stuff like that that you know you have to be a real craftsman to

have to be a real craftsman to

have to be a real craftsman to understand

understand

understand so at aquavit how excited were you when

so at aquavit how excited were you when

so at aquavit how excited were you when they said yeah come and come and work

they said yeah come and come and work

they said yeah come and come and work here no it’s very exciting Aquarius has

here no it’s very exciting Aquarius has

here no it’s very exciting Aquarius has always been sort of the the only

always been sort of the the only

always been sort of the the only Scandinavian restaurant in outside

Scandinavian restaurant in outside

Scandinavian restaurant in outside Scandinavia the person who owned aquavit

Scandinavia the person who owned aquavit

Scandinavia the person who owned aquavit at the time he came back after couple of

at the time he came back after couple of

at the time he came back after couple of months of looking for a chef and

months of looking for a chef and

months of looking for a chef and he said I know it’s gonna be the new

he said I know it’s gonna be the new

he said I know it’s gonna be the new chef like who is it you gonna be the new

chef like who is it you gonna be the new

chef like who is it you gonna be the new chef and I was like well let me think

chef and I was like well let me think

chef and I was like well let me think about this because it made me nervous I

about this because it made me nervous I

about this because it made me nervous I didn’t want to be I could’ve just very

didn’t want to be I could’ve just very

didn’t want to be I could’ve just very famous restaurant in Scandinavia I don’t

famous restaurant in Scandinavia I don’t

famous restaurant in Scandinavia I don’t want to be the guy to close it I’m like

want to be the guy to close it I’m like

want to be the guy to close it I’m like let me isn’t that because it’s just

let me isn’t that because it’s just

let me isn’t that because it’s just being paranoid I’m like no I don’t want

being paranoid I’m like no I don’t want

being paranoid I’m like no I don’t want all that but also knew that timing of

all that but also knew that timing of

all that but also knew that timing of stuff doesn’t always work no I wrote to

stuff doesn’t always work no I wrote to

stuff doesn’t always work no I wrote to get two three-star Michelin restaurant

get two three-star Michelin restaurant

get two three-star Michelin restaurant 30 times before I got in that didn’t fit

30 times before I got in that didn’t fit

30 times before I got in that didn’t fit with my timing so you know there were 30

with my timing so you know there were 30

with my timing so you know there were 30 there was 29 notes I mean yeah so I also

there was 29 notes I mean yeah so I also

there was 29 notes I mean yeah so I also knew the opposite of that timing is just

knew the opposite of that timing is just

knew the opposite of that timing is just not gonna be presented to you and I

not gonna be presented to you and I

not gonna be presented to you and I think it even helped me being black in

think it even helped me being black in

think it even helped me being black in that case hmm because I knew how rare we

that case hmm because I knew how rare we

that case hmm because I knew how rare we get the shots so you better take it

get the shots so you better take it

get the shots so you better take it right you better do the most out of it

right you better do the most out of it

right you better do the most out of it well and you definitely made that

well and you definitely made that

well and you definitely made that opportunity work for you because I think

opportunity work for you because I think

opportunity work for you because I think by the time you were literally just less

by the time you were literally just less

by the time you were literally just less than a year later when you were 24 a

than a year later when you were 24 a

than a year later when you were 24 a little food writer named Ruth reichal in

little food writer named Ruth reichal in

little food writer named Ruth reichal in the New York Times reviewed reviewed

the New York Times reviewed reviewed

the New York Times reviewed reviewed your meal yeah and something happened

your meal yeah and something happened

your meal yeah and something happened and we got three stars from the New York

and we got three stars from the New York

and we got three stars from the New York Times and you know what I was youngest

Times and you know what I was youngest

Times and you know what I was youngest he is the youngest chef to ever receive

he is the youngest chef to ever receive

he is the youngest chef to ever receive a three-star review from the New York

a three-star review from the New York

a three-star review from the New York Times yeah I mean come on

but what I like about that more than

but what I like about that more than anything is that we really had no clue

anything is that we really had no clue

anything is that we really had no clue that she was in the building any of

that she was in the building any of

that she was in the building any of those times and when I say like we had

those times and when I say like we had

those times and when I say like we had no clue we had no clue did she wear a

no clue we had no clue did she wear a

no clue we had no clue did she wear a disguise or something what about us

disguise or something what about us

disguise or something what about us because we didn’t know we were so

because we didn’t know we were so

because we didn’t know we were so disorganized we were just working it

disorganized we were just working it

disorganized we were just working it could have been said New York Times on a

could have been said New York Times on a

could have been said New York Times on a forehand ruin them no so what what

forehand ruin them no so what what

forehand ruin them no so what what happened after a covey what was your

happened after a covey what was your

happened after a covey what was your your next big adventure you know I

your next big adventure you know I

your next big adventure you know I remember the weekend before 9/11 I did I

remember the weekend before 9/11 I did I

remember the weekend before 9/11 I did I was cooking at the towers I was cooking

was cooking at the towers I was cooking

was cooking at the towers I was cooking there down there and the following

there down there and the following

there down there and the following weekend the weekend of 9/11 I was in

weekend the weekend of 9/11 I was in

weekend the weekend of 9/11 I was in Australia and I just remember a guy

Australia and I just remember a guy

Australia and I just remember a guy waking me up like knocked on my door you

waking me up like knocked on my door you

waking me up like knocked on my door you gotta you gotta put on TV and I saw the

gotta you gotta put on TV and I saw the

gotta you gotta put on TV and I saw the stuff that happened and I knew a lot of

stuff that happened and I knew a lot of

stuff that happened and I knew a lot of those cooks I know a lot of the service

those cooks I know a lot of the service

those cooks I know a lot of the service I need a lot of a new chef at the tower

I need a lot of a new chef at the tower

I need a lot of a new chef at the tower yeah the tire on at the top right and it

yeah the tire on at the top right and it

yeah the tire on at the top right and it was one of those times where you started

was one of those times where you started

was one of those times where you started thinking about okay what am i doing like

thinking about okay what am i doing like

thinking about okay what am i doing like what is this gonna be there’s gonna be

what is this gonna be there’s gonna be

what is this gonna be there’s gonna be my life to cook for the richest people

my life to cook for the richest people

my life to cook for the richest people in the world for the rest of fill these

in the world for the rest of fill these

in the world for the rest of fill these 80 seats every night and I started to

80 seats every night and I started to

80 seats every night and I started to think about it you know what can a chef

think about it you know what can a chef

think about it you know what can a chef do what is my other purposes and my call

do what is my other purposes and my call

do what is my other purposes and my call was that experience right to post that

was that experience right to post that

was that experience right to post that yeah and I decided to you know what let

yeah and I decided to you know what let

yeah and I decided to you know what let me let me move to Harlem let me move

me let me move to Harlem let me move

me let me move to Harlem let me move somewhere else so I’m like what if you

somewhere else so I’m like what if you

somewhere else so I’m like what if you know what if I can open a small

know what if I can open a small

know what if I can open a small restaurant here that puts the community

restaurant here that puts the community

restaurant here that puts the community could becomes a waterhole for the

could becomes a waterhole for the

could becomes a waterhole for the community that is of and similar to

community that is of and similar to

community that is of and similar to Sylvia’s and in the place of creating

Sylvia’s and in the place of creating

Sylvia’s and in the place of creating jobs but just done a little bit

jobs but just done a little bit

jobs but just done a little bit different and that was really when the

different and that was really when the

different and that was really when the whole idea of Red Rooster for me started

whole idea of Red Rooster for me started

whole idea of Red Rooster for me started to become real and then by 2010 we

to become real and then by 2010 we

to become real and then by 2010 we opened Red Rooster and how’s it doing

opened Red Rooster and how’s it doing

opened Red Rooster and how’s it doing these days we were very fortunate you

these days we were very fortunate you

these days we were very fortunate you know

know

know I’m very fortunate yeah we’re really

I’m very fortunate yeah we’re really

I’m very fortunate yeah we’re really blessed by the community and we’re

blessed by the community and we’re

blessed by the community and we’re really blessed by but you know it’s not

really blessed by but you know it’s not

really blessed by but you know it’s not about I never measured a restaurant and

about I never measured a restaurant and

about I never measured a restaurant and it’s easy to say when you’re busy all

it’s easy to say when you’re busy all

it’s easy to say when you’re busy all the time but I don’t measure it by how

the time but I don’t measure it by how

the time but I don’t measure it by how busy it is I measure it by the goals and

busy it is I measure it by the goals and

busy it is I measure it by the goals and the reason why I put it in there what is

the reason why I put it in there what is

the reason why I put it in there what is that what is the purpose what is the

that what is the purpose what is the

that what is the purpose what is the core purpose the purpose was to really

core purpose the purpose was to really

core purpose the purpose was to really create something to inspire and aspire

create something to inspire and aspire

create something to inspire and aspire right the purple was to create jobs of

right the purple was to create jobs of

right the purple was to create jobs of the trade that I’ve been lucky nothing

the trade that I’ve been lucky nothing

the trade that I’ve been lucky nothing to be part of the purpose was to also

to be part of the purpose was to also

to be part of the purpose was to also create a and other Soyoung particularly

create a and other Soyoung particularly

create a and other Soyoung particularly people of color can say hey I can own a

people of color can say hey I can own a

people of color can say hey I can own a business hey I can become a chef hey I

business hey I can become a chef hey I

business hey I can become a chef hey I can become a bartender whatever your

can become a bartender whatever your

can become a bartender whatever your goal is but it’s a field here and here’s

goal is but it’s a field here and here’s

goal is but it’s a field here and here’s an upper tier represents an opportunity

an upper tier represents an opportunity

an upper tier represents an opportunity this trade that a lot of people of color

this trade that a lot of people of color

this trade that a lot of people of color really started in and served in but the

really started in and served in but the

really started in and served in but the minute became a profession didn’t fit

minute became a profession didn’t fit

minute became a profession didn’t fit into anymore can really take back its

into anymore can really take back its

into anymore can really take back its authorship that’s the intent and that

authorship that’s the intent and that

authorship that’s the intent and that takes time and thank you so much for

takes time and thank you so much for

takes time and thank you so much for coming good game with us not done you

coming good game with us not done you

coming good game with us not done you did a great job you did

”

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