[Music] what
Oh
Oh [Music]
[Music]
[Music] the global and historic traditional view
the global and historic traditional view
the global and historic traditional view of epic projects as always from the
of epic projects as always from the
of epic projects as always from the majority view point that it’s daunting
majority view point that it’s daunting
majority view point that it’s daunting and impossible and the only people who
and impossible and the only people who
and impossible and the only people who have ever accomplished these take the
have ever accomplished these take the
have ever accomplished these take the word impossible as an invitation is it
word impossible as an invitation is it
word impossible as an invitation is it impossible no they’re doing it can it be
impossible no they’re doing it can it be
impossible no they’re doing it can it be done
done
done absolutely can be done they’re closed
the valley makes most people feel pretty
the valley makes most people feel pretty small now you drive in and all of a
small now you drive in and all of a
small now you drive in and all of a sudden your size is put into context by
sudden your size is put into context by
sudden your size is put into context by giant canyons and 3,000 foot walls above
giant canyons and 3,000 foot walls above
giant canyons and 3,000 foot walls above your head and you don’t get that kind of
your head and you don’t get that kind of
your head and you don’t get that kind of perspective very often like every 10
perspective very often like every 10
perspective very often like every 10 days two weeks then you’d like get out
days two weeks then you’d like get out
days two weeks then you’d like get out of you study actually it’s not like
of you study actually it’s not like
of you study actually it’s not like spring hair things just get dark it goes
spring hair things just get dark it goes
spring hair things just get dark it goes from like being humbling and inspiring
from like being humbling and inspiring
from like being humbling and inspiring to actually like claustrophobic you know
to actually like claustrophobic you know
to actually like claustrophobic you know drive back to Santa Rosa for a day or
drive back to Santa Rosa for a day or
drive back to Santa Rosa for a day or two and do some laundry clean off my
two and do some laundry clean off my
two and do some laundry clean off my truck or something get refreshed we’re
truck or something get refreshed we’re
truck or something get refreshed we’re at mama Jorgensen’s house
at mama Jorgensen’s house
at mama Jorgensen’s house we just failed from the valley a little
we just failed from the valley a little
we just failed from the valley a little R&R for a couple days through the head
R&R for a couple days through the head
R&R for a couple days through the head it’s important to stay fresh and
it’s important to stay fresh and
it’s important to stay fresh and sometimes just kind of get out everyone
sometimes just kind of get out everyone
sometimes just kind of get out everyone smile it’s gross I can see the oil on
smile it’s gross I can see the oil on
smile it’s gross I can see the oil on your hair okay I’m totally being a mom
your hair okay I’m totally being a mom
your hair okay I’m totally being a mom oh I think he probably had been working
oh I think he probably had been working
oh I think he probably had been working on the dawn wall for a couple of years
on the dawn wall for a couple of years
on the dawn wall for a couple of years before I knew about it what that really
before I knew about it what that really
before I knew about it what that really meant oh it’s one thing to have a
meant oh it’s one thing to have a
meant oh it’s one thing to have a project I didn’t realize how special
project I didn’t realize how special
project I didn’t realize how special this project was there’s nothing you can
this project was there’s nothing you can
this project was there’s nothing you can say he’s following his bliss he’s had
say he’s following his bliss he’s had
say he’s following his bliss he’s had that ever since he’s been a baby he
that ever since he’s been a baby he
that ever since he’s been a baby he wanted to go to vertex every moment of
wanted to go to vertex every moment of
wanted to go to vertex every moment of every day he lived there he was just I
every day he lived there he was just I
every day he lived there he was just I don’t know probably 14 at the time and
don’t know probably 14 at the time and
don’t know probably 14 at the time and you know just basic your basic bratty
you know just basic your basic bratty
you know just basic your basic bratty little kid running around the gym and
little kid running around the gym and
little kid running around the gym and then pretty much the next time we saw
then pretty much the next time we saw
then pretty much the next time we saw him he was just crushing b7 and we were
him he was just crushing b7 and we were
him he was just crushing b7 and we were like what what how did that happen all
like what what how did that happen all
like what what how did that happen all of a sudden the bratty little kid was
of a sudden the bratty little kid was
of a sudden the bratty little kid was common really hard out of nowhere he has
common really hard out of nowhere he has
common really hard out of nowhere he has a great fierce open faced passion for
a great fierce open faced passion for
a great fierce open faced passion for climbing and for the art of the natural
climbing and for the art of the natural
climbing and for the art of the natural world as it is expressed through
world as it is expressed through
world as it is expressed through climbing
you would talk about the heart of the
you would talk about the heart of the thing not the difficulty that was a
thing not the difficulty that was a
thing not the difficulty that was a really powerful difference
really powerful difference
really powerful difference [Music]
[Music]
[Music] it’s not that he’s an ego Freeza
it’s not that he’s an ego Freeza
it’s not that he’s an ego Freeza however he subordinates them in favor of
however he subordinates them in favor of
however he subordinates them in favor of being compassionate and giving and
being compassionate and giving and
being compassionate and giving and thoughtful and creative it’s really
thoughtful and creative it’s really
thoughtful and creative it’s really unusual and that is the quality of
unusual and that is the quality of
unusual and that is the quality of leadership I’ve climbed on El Cap very
leadership I’ve climbed on El Cap very
leadership I’ve climbed on El Cap very little prior to calling Tommy to see if
little prior to calling Tommy to see if
little prior to calling Tommy to see if he wanted a partner for the Don wall
he wanted a partner for the Don wall
he wanted a partner for the Don wall Kevin had never climbed a big wall
Kevin had never climbed a big wall
Kevin had never climbed a big wall project he’s a badass Boulder I mean his
project he’s a badass Boulder I mean his
project he’s a badass Boulder I mean his idea of tall was city building size the
idea of tall was city building size the
idea of tall was city building size the tradition is you work your way up and
tradition is you work your way up and
tradition is you work your way up and you do this and now he is basically I
you do this and now he is basically I
you do this and now he is basically I just jump on fly boy the hardest problem
just jump on fly boy the hardest problem
just jump on fly boy the hardest problem on earth the transition into getting on
on earth the transition into getting on
on earth the transition into getting on El Cap in some ways was a relief to
El Cap in some ways was a relief to
El Cap in some ways was a relief to people because it’s like well at least
people because it’s like well at least
people because it’s like well at least he’s got a freakin rope on now you know
he’s got a freakin rope on now you know
he’s got a freakin rope on now you know the impacts it Tommy’s presence and
the impacts it Tommy’s presence and
the impacts it Tommy’s presence and Kevin’s life as I’ve had the fact that
Kevin’s life as I’ve had the fact that
Kevin’s life as I’ve had the fact that Tommy invited Kevin to be a party to
Tommy invited Kevin to be a party to
Tommy invited Kevin to be a party to this vision and then let Kevin move in
this vision and then let Kevin move in
this vision and then let Kevin move in and have it become his vision as well
and have it become his vision as well
and have it become his vision as well has been phenomenal they started on it
has been phenomenal they started on it
has been phenomenal they started on it when I was 25 there’s a little bit of
when I was 25 there’s a little bit of
when I was 25 there’s a little bit of internal pressure just to get it done
internal pressure just to get it done
internal pressure just to get it done you know you dedicate 5 October
you know you dedicate 5 October
you know you dedicate 5 October November’s in a row we’re in the same
November’s in a row we’re in the same
November’s in a row we’re in the same spot every year on the same wall the
spot every year on the same wall the
spot every year on the same wall the same rule I can’t tell you how many
same rule I can’t tell you how many
same rule I can’t tell you how many times I’ve thought about what it would
times I’ve thought about what it would
times I’ve thought about what it would feel like to do pitchfork eat on the
feel like to do pitchfork eat on the
feel like to do pitchfork eat on the push
push
push you’re probably six days in you’ve got
you’re probably six days in you’ve got
you’re probably six days in you’ve got multiple pitches of five 14 below you’re
multiple pitches of five 14 below you’re
multiple pitches of five 14 below you’re gonna feel light on my toes but solid
gonna feel light on my toes but solid
gonna feel light on my toes but solid enough to stand on anything and
enough to stand on anything and
enough to stand on anything and it’s going to feel easy finally my left
it’s going to feel easy finally my left
it’s going to feel easy finally my left foots not gonna pick I’m gonna stretch
foots not gonna pick I’m gonna stretch
foots not gonna pick I’m gonna stretch down put that foot come into the right
down put that foot come into the right
down put that foot come into the right hand and lean it over and get the foot
hand and lean it over and get the foot
hand and lean it over and get the foot up and match I’m still gonna feel it
up and match I’m still gonna feel it
up and match I’m still gonna feel it fresh
fresh
fresh I’ll lock that right hand down and
I’ll lock that right hand down and
I’ll lock that right hand down and stretch the razor bump over to the edge
stretch the razor bump over to the edge
stretch the razor bump over to the edge cross Center the anchor celebrate okay
cross Center the anchor celebrate okay
cross Center the anchor celebrate okay oh how sharp and then immediately
oh how sharp and then immediately
oh how sharp and then immediately realized that there are two more super
realized that there are two more super
realized that there are two more super hard pitches but I will celebrate for a
hard pitches but I will celebrate for a
hard pitches but I will celebrate for a minute
minute
minute [Music]
”
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