Greg Long: Big Wave Rider | Nat Geo Live

I do feel fear but that fear is actually

I do feel fear but that fear is actually one of the underlying motivators of why

one of the underlying motivators of why

one of the underlying motivators of why I arrived

are we ever meant to truly grow in our

are we ever meant to truly grow in our lives if we don’t occasionally step out

lives if we don’t occasionally step out

lives if we don’t occasionally step out of that comfort zone

feelings of fear I opened my arms and I

feelings of fear I opened my arms and I welcome them thank you guys very much

welcome them thank you guys very much

welcome them thank you guys very much I’m Greg long I’m a professional

I’m Greg long I’m a professional

I’m Greg long I’m a professional big-wave surfer I have dedicated my life

big-wave surfer I have dedicated my life

big-wave surfer I have dedicated my life to following the greatest ocean storms

to following the greatest ocean storms

to following the greatest ocean storms around the globe in pursuit of riding

around the globe in pursuit of riding

around the globe in pursuit of riding the biggest waves in the world as you

the biggest waves in the world as you

the biggest waves in the world as you continue to ride larger and larger waves

continue to ride larger and larger waves

continue to ride larger and larger waves the stakes at play in order to do so

the stakes at play in order to do so

the stakes at play in order to do so continue to escalate eventually you get

continue to escalate eventually you get

continue to escalate eventually you get to a point where you become walking a

to a point where you become walking a

to a point where you become walking a fine line it’s a line between riding

fine line it’s a line between riding

fine line it’s a line between riding that next greatest biggest wave of your

that next greatest biggest wave of your

that next greatest biggest wave of your life or possibly dropping down the face

life or possibly dropping down the face

life or possibly dropping down the face of the one that could end it for over a

of the one that could end it for over a

of the one that could end it for over a decade I walk that line until one day I

decade I walk that line until one day I

decade I walk that line until one day I stumbled over the other side thankfully

stumbled over the other side thankfully

stumbled over the other side thankfully I’m still here today to share with you

I’m still here today to share with you

I’m still here today to share with you guys my big wave journey one is

guys my big wave journey one is

guys my big wave journey one is literally taking me to the edge and back

with a playing field that’s constantly

with a playing field that’s constantly in motion and always changing

moving west may bring us better day and

moving west may bring us better day and the consequences

but when you reach deep within yourself

but when you reach deep within yourself bringing your mind and body into

bringing your mind and body into

bringing your mind and body into momentary sync with the rhythm and power

momentary sync with the rhythm and power

momentary sync with the rhythm and power of the swells and for a brief moment

of the swells and for a brief moment

of the swells and for a brief moment seemingly defying nature and

seemingly defying nature and

seemingly defying nature and successfully riding one of those waves

successfully riding one of those waves

successfully riding one of those waves for me there’s no other feeling in the

for me there’s no other feeling in the

for me there’s no other feeling in the world like

thank you so I grew up in the small

thank you so I grew up in the small beach town of San Clemente in Southern

beach town of San Clemente in Southern

beach town of San Clemente in Southern California it’s a popular surfing

California it’s a popular surfing

California it’s a popular surfing destination known around the world but

destination known around the world but

destination known around the world but not for its big waves it’s known for its

not for its big waves it’s known for its

not for its big waves it’s known for its small perfect cobblestone point breaks

small perfect cobblestone point breaks

small perfect cobblestone point breaks that allow your average surfer to go out

that allow your average surfer to go out

that allow your average surfer to go out there and just really have a fun joyous

there and just really have a fun joyous

there and just really have a fun joyous time when I was 14 years old I started

time when I was 14 years old I started

time when I was 14 years old I started seeing these photographs in the

seeing these photographs in the

seeing these photographs in the magazines photographs of a newly exposed

magazines photographs of a newly exposed

magazines photographs of a newly exposed big wave break by the name of Toto

big wave break by the name of Toto

big wave break by the name of Toto Santos and Toto Santos is on an island

Santos and Toto Santos is on an island

Santos and Toto Santos is on an island off the coast of northern Baja and it

off the coast of northern Baja and it

off the coast of northern Baja and it was renowned immediately as one of the

was renowned immediately as one of the

was renowned immediately as one of the best big wave breaks in the world and at

best big wave breaks in the world and at

best big wave breaks in the world and at 15 years old I got to go down and surf

15 years old I got to go down and surf

15 years old I got to go down and surf this wave Toro Santos at the same time I

this wave Toro Santos at the same time I

this wave Toro Santos at the same time I was competing competitively in the

was competing competitively in the

was competing competitively in the amateur series and the progressive

amateur series and the progressive

amateur series and the progressive surfing doing the turns on the small

surfing doing the turns on the small

surfing doing the turns on the small waves that’s what I grew up surfing and

waves that’s what I grew up surfing and

waves that’s what I grew up surfing and I had a very decent amateur career and I

I had a very decent amateur career and I

I had a very decent amateur career and I actually won was the National Amateur

actually won was the National Amateur

actually won was the National Amateur Championship title and immediately I had

Championship title and immediately I had

Championship title and immediately I had all the surf industry taking notice

all the surf industry taking notice

all the surf industry taking notice saying okay he’s the next kid that we

saying okay he’s the next kid that we

saying okay he’s the next kid that we need the sponsor well I was 18 years old

need the sponsor well I was 18 years old

need the sponsor well I was 18 years old and I used that opportunity to sign my

and I used that opportunity to sign my

and I used that opportunity to sign my first professional contract but in doing

first professional contract but in doing

first professional contract but in doing so I knew that’s not where my heart was

so I knew that’s not where my heart was

so I knew that’s not where my heart was I could have cared less about these

I could have cared less about these

I could have cared less about these contests I wanted to ride these big

contests I wanted to ride these big

contests I wanted to ride these big waves so inside of that professional

waves so inside of that professional

waves so inside of that professional contract I was allowed a travel budget

contract I was allowed a travel budget

contract I was allowed a travel budget that I could use to go to the contest or

that I could use to go to the contest or

that I could use to go to the contest or as I figured at my own disposal

as I figured at my own disposal

as I figured at my own disposal okay so I turned my back on competitive

okay so I turned my back on competitive

okay so I turned my back on competitive surfing and I set off on this life of

surfing and I set off on this life of

surfing and I set off on this life of adventure it became an obsession of mine

adventure it became an obsession of mine

adventure it became an obsession of mine beyond the passion and obsession I’d

beyond the passion and obsession I’d

beyond the passion and obsession I’d pack up my bags and I would go and I

pack up my bags and I would go and I

pack up my bags and I would go and I would live down in Cape Town South

would live down in Cape Town South

would live down in Cape Town South Africa the bottom of Africa and during

Africa the bottom of Africa and during

Africa the bottom of Africa and during the most torrential storms of the

the most torrential storms of the

the most torrential storms of the roaring 40s all in hopes of waiting for

roaring 40s all in hopes of waiting for

roaring 40s all in hopes of waiting for a wave by the name of Dungeons to awaken

a wave by the name of Dungeons to awaken

a wave by the name of Dungeons to awaken it’s called the Cape of storms for a

it’s called the Cape of storms for a

it’s called the Cape of storms for a good reason and it seemed like every

good reason and it seemed like every

good reason and it seemed like every single week we were constantly battered

single week we were constantly battered

single week we were constantly battered with another storm and an opportunity to

with another storm and an opportunity to

with another storm and an opportunity to surf these big waves you had all these

surf these big waves you had all these

surf these big waves you had all these incredible harsh elements against you

incredible harsh elements against you

incredible harsh elements against you and then sometimes the most daunting of

and then sometimes the most daunting of

and then sometimes the most daunting of them all was the real locals I wouldn’t

them all was the real locals I wouldn’t

them all was the real locals I wouldn’t serve with these locals but all those

serve with these locals but all those

serve with these locals but all those elements they hardened my Southern

elements they hardened my Southern

elements they hardened my Southern California ass up real quick and it gave

California ass up real quick and it gave

California ass up real quick and it gave me this confidence that I could then

me this confidence that I could then

me this confidence that I could then take to any other Break around the world

take to any other Break around the world

take to any other Break around the world which is what I did

which is what I did

which is what I did sometimes it was Mexico it was one of my

sometimes it was Mexico it was one of my

sometimes it was Mexico it was one of my favorite destinations wave called Puerto

favorite destinations wave called Puerto

favorite destinations wave called Puerto Escondido West Australia all of South

Escondido West Australia all of South

Escondido West Australia all of South America Chile and Peru South Pacific

America Chile and Peru South Pacific

America Chile and Peru South Pacific Tahiti Fiji now people often ask me

Tahiti Fiji now people often ask me

Tahiti Fiji now people often ask me great do you ever get scared

great do you ever get scared

great do you ever get scared I do feel fear but that fear is actually

I do feel fear but that fear is actually

I do feel fear but that fear is actually one of the underlying motivators of why

one of the underlying motivators of why

one of the underlying motivators of why I ride big waves why I choose to put

I ride big waves why I choose to put

I ride big waves why I choose to put myself out there are we ever meant to

myself out there are we ever meant to

myself out there are we ever meant to truly grow in our lives if we don’t

truly grow in our lives if we don’t

truly grow in our lives if we don’t occasionally step out of that comfort

occasionally step out of that comfort

occasionally step out of that comfort zone and that’s what big wave surfing

zone and that’s what big wave surfing

zone and that’s what big wave surfing has taught me and one of the greatest

has taught me and one of the greatest

has taught me and one of the greatest lures of it is embracing that fear in a

lures of it is embracing that fear in a

lures of it is embracing that fear in a positive light simply acknowledging it

positive light simply acknowledging it

positive light simply acknowledging it as a space where I can grow in my life

as a space where I can grow in my life

as a space where I can grow in my life now over the course of my surfing career

now over the course of my surfing career

now over the course of my surfing career in my later years there was one wave

in my later years there was one wave

in my later years there was one wave that captivated me beyond comprehension

that captivated me beyond comprehension

that captivated me beyond comprehension and it’s called the Cortes bank

and it’s called the Cortes bank

and it’s called the Cortes bank an underwater seamount that sits 100

an underwater seamount that sits 100

an underwater seamount that sits 100 miles off the coast of Southern

miles off the coast of Southern

miles off the coast of Southern California it’s mainly recognized as a

California it’s mainly recognized as a

California it’s mainly recognized as a maritime hazard but the big wave surfers

maritime hazard but the big wave surfers

maritime hazard but the big wave surfers it’s our Mount Everest Cortes bank has

it’s our Mount Everest Cortes bank has

it’s our Mount Everest Cortes bank has the ability to produce the largest

the ability to produce the largest

the ability to produce the largest rideable waves of anywhere in the world

rideable waves of anywhere in the world

rideable waves of anywhere in the world but it also has challenges and dangers

but it also has challenges and dangers

but it also has challenges and dangers that no other big wave break has your

that no other big wave break has your

that no other big wave break has your horizon line it extends 360 degrees

horizon line it extends 360 degrees

horizon line it extends 360 degrees around if there is no landmass in sight

around if there is no landmass in sight

around if there is no landmass in sight no reference point as to where you’re

no reference point as to where you’re

no reference point as to where you’re going to actually sit and line up

going to actually sit and line up

going to actually sit and line up there’s no continental shelf so these

there’s no continental shelf so these

there’s no continental shelf so these open ocean swells are traveling at

open ocean swells are traveling at

open ocean swells are traveling at speeds upwards of 50 miles an hour

speeds upwards of 50 miles an hour

speeds upwards of 50 miles an hour that’s twice as fast as your typical big

that’s twice as fast as your typical big

that’s twice as fast as your typical big wave the currents out there moving at

wave the currents out there moving at

wave the currents out there moving at the pace of an easy flowing river so

the pace of an easy flowing river so

the pace of an easy flowing river so it’s impossible to stay wherever it is

it’s impossible to stay wherever it is

it’s impossible to stay wherever it is that you want to without paddling

that you want to without paddling

that you want to without paddling incessantly and then the line up it

incessantly and then the line up it

incessantly and then the line up it spans over the course of about three

spans over the course of about three

spans over the course of about three football fields there’s no rhyme or

football fields there’s no rhyme or

football fields there’s no rhyme or reason as to how and where these waves

reason as to how and where these waves

reason as to how and where these waves actually break out there on the seamount

actually break out there on the seamount

actually break out there on the seamount then in late December 2010 another

then in late December 2010 another

then in late December 2010 another massive low-pressure system forms off

massive low-pressure system forms off

massive low-pressure system forms off the coast of California I see that

the coast of California I see that

the coast of California I see that there’s an opportunity to go out to the

there’s an opportunity to go out to the

there’s an opportunity to go out to the Cortes bank and I had one goal all I

Cortes bank and I had one goal all I

Cortes bank and I had one goal all I wanted to do was paddle into the biggest

wanted to do was paddle into the biggest

wanted to do was paddle into the biggest wave of my life I’m out here on the line

wave of my life I’m out here on the line

wave of my life I’m out here on the line up and here it is before me I turn

up and here it is before me I turn

up and here it is before me I turn around I put my head down and I paddle

around I put my head down and I paddle

around I put my head down and I paddle my heart out and I go I go I go right

my heart out and I go I go I go right

my heart out and I go I go I go right over the front of my board and onto my

over the front of my board and onto my

over the front of my board and onto my face but that story didn’t end the way

face but that story didn’t end the way

face but that story didn’t end the way you guys thought it was going to

you guys thought it was going to

you guys thought it was going to they usually never do and well I was the

they usually never do and well I was the

they usually never do and well I was the happiest man alive why you may ask well

happiest man alive why you may ask well

happiest man alive why you may ask well one I was okay – I was an opportunity

one I was okay – I was an opportunity

one I was okay – I was an opportunity that I’ve been waiting for I would have

that I’ve been waiting for I would have

that I’ve been waiting for I would have rather have gone on that wave and eaten

rather have gone on that wave and eaten

rather have gone on that wave and eaten wiped out then not and sat there and

wiped out then not and sat there and

wiped out then not and sat there and wondered for the rest of my life could I

wondered for the rest of my life could I

wondered for the rest of my life could I have made it I paddled back out and I

have made it I paddled back out and I

have made it I paddled back out and I wanted to do it again not wipeout I

wanted to do it again not wipeout I

wanted to do it again not wipeout I wanted to make one of these waves so

wanted to make one of these waves so

wanted to make one of these waves so after about an hour back in the lineup

after about an hour back in the lineup

after about an hour back in the lineup and I see a great set approaching lineup

and I see a great set approaching lineup

and I see a great set approaching lineup the way that I like just I done so many

the way that I like just I done so many

the way that I like just I done so many times before I put my head down and I go

times before I put my head down and I go

times before I put my head down and I go farther on the shoulder I was joined by

farther on the shoulder I was joined by

farther on the shoulder I was joined by fellow surfer Garrett McNamara and

fellow surfer Garrett McNamara and

fellow surfer Garrett McNamara and together we take the plunge down the

together we take the plunge down the

together we take the plunge down the face of this wave we get to the bottom

face of this wave we get to the bottom

face of this wave we get to the bottom and we both immediately realize that

and we both immediately realize that

and we both immediately realize that we’ve misjudged the speed and our

we’ve misjudged the speed and our

we’ve misjudged the speed and our distance to the shoulder and were

distance to the shoulder and were

distance to the shoulder and were immediately overtaken by this mountain

immediately overtaken by this mountain

immediately overtaken by this mountain of whitewater now I’d ridden bigger

of whitewater now I’d ridden bigger

of whitewater now I’d ridden bigger waves in my life I’d wiped out in much

waves in my life I’d wiped out in much

waves in my life I’d wiped out in much more dramatic fashion in my life before

more dramatic fashion in my life before

more dramatic fashion in my life before but there was something about this wave

but there was something about this wave

but there was something about this wave the way that it hit me with the power

the way that it hit me with the power

the way that it hit me with the power and the force it’s like nothing I’d ever

and the force it’s like nothing I’d ever

and the force it’s like nothing I’d ever experienced it was like a five-story

experienced it was like a five-story

experienced it was like a five-story building of whitewater being dumped on

building of whitewater being dumped on

building of whitewater being dumped on my back I was immediately pushed into

my back I was immediately pushed into

my back I was immediately pushed into the abyss and I’ve been down so long

the abyss and I’ve been down so long

the abyss and I’ve been down so long running the risk of what’s called a two

running the risk of what’s called a two

running the risk of what’s called a two wave hold down where you don’t actually

wave hold down where you don’t actually

wave hold down where you don’t actually make it to the surface before the second

make it to the surface before the second

make it to the surface before the second wave passes over you but I still have

wave passes over you but I still have

wave passes over you but I still have the time to probably swim to the surface

the time to probably swim to the surface

the time to probably swim to the surface and get that breath before it hits and

and get that breath before it hits and

and get that breath before it hits and as I’m about ready to penetrate this

as I’m about ready to penetrate this

as I’m about ready to penetrate this aerated water and get that breath that

aerated water and get that breath that

aerated water and get that breath that second wave powering wave four stories

second wave powering wave four stories

second wave powering wave four stories tall lip comes pitching down and it

tall lip comes pitching down and it

tall lip comes pitching down and it lands right on top of me

lands right on top of me

lands right on top of me my body instantly felt like it was torn

my body instantly felt like it was torn

my body instantly felt like it was torn in two pieces and shaken to this violent

in two pieces and shaken to this violent

in two pieces and shaken to this violent state of semi paralysis but even worse

state of semi paralysis but even worse

state of semi paralysis but even worse all of the wind was in my lungs was

all of the wind was in my lungs was

all of the wind was in my lungs was immediately expelled out not straight

immediately expelled out not straight

immediately expelled out not straight out of me but as that wave that lip hit

out of me but as that wave that lip hit

out of me but as that wave that lip hit me it pushed me right back down to this

me it pushed me right back down to this

me it pushed me right back down to this place thirty feet below the surface

place thirty feet below the surface

place thirty feet below the surface my body was begging me to breathe to

my body was begging me to breathe to

my body was begging me to breathe to reinflates but I knew that I couldn’t

reinflates but I knew that I couldn’t

reinflates but I knew that I couldn’t but if I did I would most certainly

but if I did I would most certainly

but if I did I would most certainly drown in that very instant so my

drown in that very instant so my

drown in that very instant so my thoughts go a little something like this

thoughts go a little something like this

thoughts go a little something like this well you’ve really done it now Greg but

well you’ve really done it now Greg but

well you’ve really done it now Greg but don’t worry just relax you’re going to

don’t worry just relax you’re going to

don’t worry just relax you’re going to make it to the surface

make it to the surface

make it to the surface you’re going to be okay at the same time

you’re going to be okay at the same time

you’re going to be okay at the same time the turbulence from that second wave

the turbulence from that second wave

the turbulence from that second wave that had hit me began to subside as I

that had hit me began to subside as I

that had hit me began to subside as I started to think about swinging for the

started to think about swinging for the

started to think about swinging for the surface I heard and I felt the third

surface I heard and I felt the third

surface I heard and I felt the third wave pass over the top of me and I

wave pass over the top of me and I

wave pass over the top of me and I immediately go back into those

immediately go back into those

immediately go back into those cartwheels and spins caught in the

cartwheels and spins caught in the

cartwheels and spins caught in the turbulence of it realized that you know

turbulence of it realized that you know

turbulence of it realized that you know these full-body convulsions began to

these full-body convulsions began to

these full-body convulsions began to slowly settle down hands again the

slowly settle down hands again the

slowly settle down hands again the tingle just feel the overall life and me

tingle just feel the overall life and me

tingle just feel the overall life and me start to slip away flashes of light in

start to slip away flashes of light in

start to slip away flashes of light in the corner of my mind I’m still going I

the corner of my mind I’m still going I

the corner of my mind I’m still going I let go of the tail section that board

let go of the tail section that board

let go of the tail section that board the last energy that I have in me I let

the last energy that I have in me I let

the last energy that I have in me I let go and I take one more double arm rest

go and I take one more double arm rest

go and I take one more double arm rest stroke reaching for the top I know it’s

stroke reaching for the top I know it’s

stroke reaching for the top I know it’s coming and then blackness

blackness and silence I come to the

blackness and silence I come to the surface face down though they pulled my

surface face down though they pulled my

surface face down though they pulled my lifeless body onto the back of the

lifeless body onto the back of the

lifeless body onto the back of the rescue sled and I was completely

rescue sled and I was completely

rescue sled and I was completely unresponsive as fast as they could they

unresponsive as fast as they could they

unresponsive as fast as they could they rushed me back to our support boat would

rushed me back to our support boat would

rushed me back to our support boat would you see in the distance here and they

you see in the distance here and they

you see in the distance here and they begun readying themselves to give me CPR

begun readying themselves to give me CPR

begun readying themselves to give me CPR but first they’re checking my vitals to

but first they’re checking my vitals to

but first they’re checking my vitals to see if there’s any signs of life and as

see if there’s any signs of life and as

see if there’s any signs of life and as they’re getting ready to start CPR and

they’re getting ready to start CPR and

they’re getting ready to start CPR and hopefully bring me back I let out the

hopefully bring me back I let out the

hopefully bring me back I let out the most feeble gasp for air all the while

most feeble gasp for air all the while

most feeble gasp for air all the while there’s just water and foam and blood

there’s just water and foam and blood

there’s just water and foam and blood coming out of my mouth but I’m still

coming out of my mouth but I’m still

coming out of my mouth but I’m still trying to breathe completely unconscious

trying to breathe completely unconscious

trying to breathe completely unconscious it’s about three minutes they sat there

it’s about three minutes they sat there

it’s about three minutes they sat there waiting those gas got larger and larger

waiting those gas got larger and larger

waiting those gas got larger and larger and then finally the lights came back on

and then finally the lights came back on

and then finally the lights came back on the Coast Guard was called but we’re 100

the Coast Guard was called but we’re 100

the Coast Guard was called but we’re 100 miles in the middle of the ocean it’s

miles in the middle of the ocean it’s

miles in the middle of the ocean it’s going to take them some time before they

going to take them some time before they

going to take them some time before they can get there four hours later the Coast

can get there four hours later the Coast

can get there four hours later the Coast Guard arrived I was packaged up friends

Guard arrived I was packaged up friends

Guard arrived I was packaged up friends walked me out to the bow of the boat

walked me out to the bow of the boat

walked me out to the bow of the boat under the cover of darkness and massive

under the cover of darkness and massive

under the cover of darkness and massive seas I was lifted in a basket up to a

seas I was lifted in a basket up to a

seas I was lifted in a basket up to a Coast Guard chopper I was life-flighted

Coast Guard chopper I was life-flighted

Coast Guard chopper I was life-flighted to San Diego immediately admitted to the

to San Diego immediately admitted to the

to San Diego immediately admitted to the hospital why I wonder went a whole

hospital why I wonder went a whole

hospital why I wonder went a whole series of tests cat scans x-rays

series of tests cat scans x-rays

series of tests cat scans x-rays checking for the brain trauma internal

checking for the brain trauma internal

checking for the brain trauma internal damage internal bleeding and then

damage internal bleeding and then

damage internal bleeding and then monitored for secondary drowning making

monitored for secondary drowning making

monitored for secondary drowning making sure that my lungs didn’t backfill the

sure that my lungs didn’t backfill the

sure that my lungs didn’t backfill the fluid as I slept through the night next

fluid as I slept through the night next

fluid as I slept through the night next morning the doctor comes in signs off on

morning the doctor comes in signs off on

morning the doctor comes in signs off on the paperwork and says you’re good to go

the paperwork and says you’re good to go

the paperwork and says you’re good to go home Greg

home Greg

home Greg I promised myself I was done with big

I promised myself I was done with big

I promised myself I was done with big wave surfing that I pushed it to the

wave surfing that I pushed it to the

wave surfing that I pushed it to the edge I was given a second chance that

edge I was given a second chance that

edge I was given a second chance that I’ve got no reason to go back there I’ve

I’ve got no reason to go back there I’ve

I’ve got no reason to go back there I’ve explored my greatest potential what I’m

explored my greatest potential what I’m

explored my greatest potential what I’m capable of I know it now I don’t care

capable of I know it now I don’t care

capable of I know it now I don’t care about it anymore three weeks later there

about it anymore three weeks later there

about it anymore three weeks later there big swell forms in the North Pacific

big swell forms in the North Pacific

big swell forms in the North Pacific yeah you guys can see where this is

yeah you guys can see where this is

yeah you guys can see where this is going and I get a call that they’re

going and I get a call that they’re

going and I get a call that they’re going to have the Mavericks big wave

going to have the Mavericks big wave

going to have the Mavericks big wave contest Mavericks is one of the premier

contest Mavericks is one of the premier

contest Mavericks is one of the premier big waves in the world and this contest

big waves in the world and this contest

big waves in the world and this contest is one of the most important in the big

is one of the most important in the big

is one of the most important in the big wave surfing world this big wave surfing

wave surfing world this big wave surfing

wave surfing world this big wave surfing community so I pack up my car and I make

community so I pack up my car and I make

community so I pack up my car and I make the eight-hour drive north to Half Moon

the eight-hour drive north to Half Moon

the eight-hour drive north to Half Moon Bay and I paddle out and I surf the

Bay and I paddle out and I surf the

Bay and I paddle out and I surf the contest but things were different I

contest but things were different I

contest but things were different I would immediately disappear back into

would immediately disappear back into

would immediately disappear back into that deep dark lonely place beneath the

that deep dark lonely place beneath the

that deep dark lonely place beneath the ocean and Cortes bank or my mind would

ocean and Cortes bank or my mind would

ocean and Cortes bank or my mind would flash back to the physical agony that I

flash back to the physical agony that I

flash back to the physical agony that I was experiencing when I was lying on the

was experiencing when I was lying on the

was experiencing when I was lying on the deck of the boat desperate to breathe

deck of the boat desperate to breathe

deck of the boat desperate to breathe but for the next six months I continued

but for the next six months I continued

but for the next six months I continued to push myself and surf every single big

to push myself and surf every single big

to push myself and surf every single big wave traveling to all these destinations

wave traveling to all these destinations

wave traveling to all these destinations just as I done so many times before and

just as I done so many times before and

just as I done so many times before and eventually I became so exhausted

eventually I became so exhausted

eventually I became so exhausted physically mentally emotionally I just

physically mentally emotionally I just

physically mentally emotionally I just had to stop I realized in that moment I

was living my life in fear all I’d ever

was living my life in fear all I’d ever known was a life in a world of surfing

known was a life in a world of surfing

known was a life in a world of surfing big waves you know frightened me to

big waves you know frightened me to

big waves you know frightened me to think of things any different but it was

think of things any different but it was

think of things any different but it was also in that moment that I realized I

also in that moment that I realized I

also in that moment that I realized I had all the answers to this riddle I was

had all the answers to this riddle I was

had all the answers to this riddle I was trying to solve in my mind now the ocean

trying to solve in my mind now the ocean

trying to solve in my mind now the ocean is this amazing metaphor for life when

is this amazing metaphor for life when

is this amazing metaphor for life when you think about it you know on this

you think about it you know on this

you think about it you know on this constantly moving playing field the

constantly moving playing field the

constantly moving playing field the wind’s tides currents are always

wind’s tides currents are always

wind’s tides currents are always changing tides go in goes out there’s an

changing tides go in goes out there’s an

changing tides go in goes out there’s an ebb and a flow to everything and I was

ebb and a flow to everything and I was

ebb and a flow to everything and I was always so good at adapting to those

always so good at adapting to those

always so good at adapting to those chain

chain

chain changes in the ocean those new feelings

changes in the ocean those new feelings

changes in the ocean those new feelings of fear that I’d never experienced

of fear that I’d never experienced

of fear that I’d never experienced before I opened my arms and I welcomed

before I opened my arms and I welcomed

before I opened my arms and I welcomed them just as I had always done and

them just as I had always done and

them just as I had always done and simply acknowledged them as places in my

simply acknowledged them as places in my

simply acknowledged them as places in my life that I was meant to learn and grow

life that I was meant to learn and grow

life that I was meant to learn and grow from I started to regain that confidence

from I started to regain that confidence

from I started to regain that confidence and I started moving forward in my life

and I started moving forward in my life

and I started moving forward in my life I was having more fun than ever and then

I was having more fun than ever and then

I was having more fun than ever and then the world gave me the opportunity once

the world gave me the opportunity once

the world gave me the opportunity once and for all go back out and face those

and for all go back out and face those

and for all go back out and face those deepest darkest fears once and for all

yeah I didn’t get much sleep last night

yeah I didn’t get much sleep last night I was just kinda turning reliving

I was just kinda turning reliving

I was just kinda turning reliving everything that I went through last time

everything that I went through last time

everything that I went through last time I was out here last time last thing I

I was out here last time last thing I

I was out here last time last thing I remember I was literally on the bow of

remember I was literally on the bow of

remember I was literally on the bow of the boat like this you know looking up

the boat like this you know looking up

the boat like this you know looking up it

it

it card helicopter

all right thank you guys

all right thank you guys love you all for being here appreciate

love you all for being here appreciate

love you all for being here appreciate it let’s go through you

thank you guys for being here love

thank you guys for being here love respect and gratitude