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A Photographer Revisits the Forgotten Land of Song | National Geographic


the first time I went to Swan idea I was

the first time I went to Swan idea I was not planning on going this one idea I

not planning on going this one idea I

not planning on going this one idea I wasn’t a photographer yet it was a

wasn’t a photographer yet it was a

wasn’t a photographer yet it was a backpacker but this is the story that

backpacker but this is the story that

backpacker but this is the story that made me a photographer I met a german

made me a photographer I met a german

made me a photographer I met a german linguist who told me about a place where

linguist who told me about a place where

linguist who told me about a place where people spoke a language that had never

people spoke a language that had never

people spoke a language that had never been written that was surrounded by you

been written that was surrounded by you

been written that was surrounded by you know 17 18 thousand foot peaks so this

know 17 18 thousand foot peaks so this

know 17 18 thousand foot peaks so this german linguist drew a map on a napkin

german linguist drew a map on a napkin

german linguist drew a map on a napkin for me and i transferred it into my

for me and i transferred it into my

for me and i transferred it into my journal and I left the next day and on a

journal and I left the next day and on a

journal and I left the next day and on a bus right into the mountains a woman

bus right into the mountains a woman

bus right into the mountains a woman turned around me after about two hours

turned around me after about two hours

turned around me after about two hours and said where are you going and I said

and said where are you going and I said

and said where are you going and I said well I’m gonna camp when the bus stops

well I’m gonna camp when the bus stops

well I’m gonna camp when the bus stops at the end of the road and she just

at the end of the road and she just

at the end of the road and she just looked at me she said no hoko please

looked at me she said no hoko please

looked at me she said no hoko please don’t do that and she took me with her

don’t do that and she took me with her

don’t do that and she took me with her and she took me to a wedding and that

and she took me to a wedding and that

and she took me to a wedding and that wedding was of the eldest daughter of

wedding was of the eldest daughter of

wedding was of the eldest daughter of the family that ended up adopting me in

the family that ended up adopting me in

the family that ended up adopting me in this region and they got me drunk and

this region and they got me drunk and

this region and they got me drunk and made me dance and I woke up the next

made me dance and I woke up the next

made me dance and I woke up the next morning in their home and they probably

morning in their home and they probably

morning in their home and they probably felt some pity on me I thought we should

felt some pity on me I thought we should

felt some pity on me I thought we should shelter this kid he doesn’t know what

shelter this kid he doesn’t know what

shelter this kid he doesn’t know what he’s doing that started a three-year

he’s doing that started a three-year

he’s doing that started a three-year relationship that’s now I guess a 16

relationship that’s now I guess a 16

relationship that’s now I guess a 16 year relationship now the National

year relationship now the National

year relationship now the National Geographic sent me back

yeah my journals really are pretty

yeah my journals really are pretty pedestrian at times I was a very young

pedestrian at times I was a very young

pedestrian at times I was a very young they’re very embarrassing to read

they’re very embarrassing to read

they’re very embarrassing to read sometimes but there are some things I

sometimes but there are some things I

sometimes but there are some things I still really love in the journals

still really love in the journals

still really love in the journals I wrote down recipes and I wrote down

I wrote down recipes and I wrote down

I wrote down recipes and I wrote down vocabulary so I would have like daily

vocabulary so I would have like daily

vocabulary so I would have like daily language lessons for myself and of

language lessons for myself and of

language lessons for myself and of course the songs I wrote down all the

course the songs I wrote down all the

course the songs I wrote down all the songs but I saw the potential for a

songs but I saw the potential for a

songs but I saw the potential for a story that was a little bit more like

story that was a little bit more like

story that was a little bit more like poetry that was revealed more about the

poetry that was revealed more about the

poetry that was revealed more about the soul of the people and the space

soul of the people and the space

soul of the people and the space and it was that third year that I

and it was that third year that I

and it was that third year that I returned specifically to try to make a

returned specifically to try to make a

returned specifically to try to make a story with pictures and that became my

story with pictures and that became my

story with pictures and that became my first other story that was some of my

first other story that was some of my

first other story that was some of my first rolls of film but it’s the first

first rolls of film but it’s the first

first rolls of film but it’s the first story that made me fall in love like

story that made me fall in love like

story that made me fall in love like with a people with a place that really

with a people with a place that really

with a people with a place that really is what it is like this story made me

is what it is like this story made me

is what it is like this story made me fall in love with a whole community it

fall in love with a whole community it

fall in love with a whole community it was imagery of that family that family

was imagery of that family that family

was imagery of that family that family is central to all of those early trips

is central to all of those early trips

is central to all of those early trips and the photographs they were beautiful

and the photographs they were beautiful

and the photographs they were beautiful people that were musical and the home

people that were musical and the home

people that were musical and the home was filled with song all the time I

was filled with song all the time I

was filled with song all the time I would wake up to singing I would go to

would wake up to singing I would go to

would wake up to singing I would go to bed to the family singing together and

bed to the family singing together and

bed to the family singing together and from the very first trip they taught me

from the very first trip they taught me

from the very first trip they taught me their sons and I remembered those songs

their sons and I remembered those songs

their sons and I remembered those songs when I came back 13 years later the

when I came back 13 years later the

when I came back 13 years later the songs are about heroes and about love

songs are about heroes and about love

songs are about heroes and about love and about your friends having your back

and about your friends having your back

and about your friends having your back all the things that good country songs

all the things that good country songs

all the things that good country songs are about the reunion with my adopted

are about the reunion with my adopted

are about the reunion with my adopted family was a little embarrassing because

family was a little embarrassing because

family was a little embarrassing because a Georgian television crew followed me

a Georgian television crew followed me

a Georgian television crew followed me and I told me I had to stay back at the

and I told me I had to stay back at the

and I told me I had to stay back at the gate it was really emotional for me you

gate it was really emotional for me you

gate it was really emotional for me you know and I saw my my mother from that

know and I saw my my mother from that

know and I saw my my mother from that family new-new and I went to her and I

family new-new and I went to her and I

family new-new and I went to her and I hugged her and it just made me start

hugged her and it just made me start

hugged her and it just made me start weeping like the songs that were really

weeping like the songs that were really

weeping like the songs that were really buried in me that that just came out

buried in me that that just came out

buried in me that that just came out like I I love this woman and that came

like I I love this woman and that came

like I I love this woman and that came out when I saw her and when I held her

out when I saw her and when I held her

out when I saw her and when I held her and it was exciting to see them and it

and it was exciting to see them and it

and it was exciting to see them and it was confusing to see them and how do you

was confusing to see them and how do you

was confusing to see them and how do you restart a relationship after 13 years

restart a relationship after 13 years

restart a relationship after 13 years but the fact that they wanted to bring

but the fact that they wanted to bring

but the fact that they wanted to bring me in again that they had not forgotten

me in again that they had not forgotten

me in again that they had not forgotten me that

me that

me that they still thought of me in that way was

they still thought of me in that way was

they still thought of me in that way was very moving to me and they did they they

very moving to me and they did they they

very moving to me and they did they they took me in again I don’t Sheila Dikshit

took me in again I don’t Sheila Dikshit

took me in again I don’t Sheila Dikshit red tongue so I found these I found all

red tongue so I found these I found all

red tongue so I found these I found all the families again I sat down with them

the families again I sat down with them

the families again I sat down with them again sang with them again and talked to

again sang with them again and talked to

again sang with them again and talked to them about their lives and the old men

them about their lives and the old men

them about their lives and the old men still play chess in the backyard in the

still play chess in the backyard in the

still play chess in the backyard in the same spot and the girls the whole family

same spot and the girls the whole family

same spot and the girls the whole family still sings in the kitchen and there are

still sings in the kitchen and there are

still sings in the kitchen and there are some of those things that just never

some of those things that just never

some of those things that just never change and and I found a lot of those

change and and I found a lot of those

change and and I found a lot of those again

and there were other scenes that I found

and there were other scenes that I found that weren’t necessarily literally the

that weren’t necessarily literally the

that weren’t necessarily literally the person in the same place but I found the

person in the same place but I found the

person in the same place but I found the same scenes again I found the dancers

same scenes again I found the dancers

same scenes again I found the dancers and the traditional singers and it

and the traditional singers and it

and the traditional singers and it brought back that memory of those first

brought back that memory of those first

brought back that memory of those first images and when I see them together side

images and when I see them together side

images and when I see them together side by side like I see what has survived

by side like I see what has survived

by side like I see what has survived these stories are not just about making

these stories are not just about making

these stories are not just about making pretty frames we we tell the stories of

pretty frames we we tell the stories of

pretty frames we we tell the stories of entire peoples so if we do this story

entire peoples so if we do this story

entire peoples so if we do this story right we preserve those things you know

right we preserve those things you know

right we preserve those things you know and that’s what our job is to preserve

and that’s what our job is to preserve

and that’s what our job is to preserve that poetry so many people that have

that poetry so many people that have

that poetry so many people that have never heard of Swan Eddie o or this

never heard of Swan Eddie o or this

never heard of Swan Eddie o or this region of the Georgian Republic or where

region of the Georgian Republic or where

region of the Georgian Republic or where these people this one’s this may be the

these people this one’s this may be the

these people this one’s this may be the only thing they ever read about these

only thing they ever read about these

only thing they ever read about these people and I think that’s what I look

people and I think that’s what I look

people and I think that’s what I look for now in all of my projects is can I

for now in all of my projects is can I

for now in all of my projects is can I can I keep finding that can I keep

can I keep finding that can I keep

can I keep finding that can I keep carrying that much

”

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