How to distinguish sheer motivation from blind ambition? | Jelle Staleman | TEDxDenHelder

8000

200 meters

I am demolished

every step I take

I know that the next step would be even worse how high I am

the less oxygen in the air

At 8000 meters, only 7 percent of oxygen can be in the air

I bend over again

and it gives for the umpteenth time today

what do you think then because I also do nothing because above 7000 meters now no longer

food

you can not imagine how hard it is to be at that height

when I left the Netherlands on 15 May

intended 82 pounds and what I have six people body fat

on return back to the Netherlands after three months of expressive expedition quot

82 the fall I 70 kilos because I still

six percent body fat

interesting

at

Twelve kilos advocates and that means it was so worrisome that I have twelve pounds of muscle mass

lost

how is that very smart

your body I choose the vending machine for a muscle to burn instead of fat of t

the burning of muscles costs less oxygen from the burning of fat

only useful if you have little insight into the decision

so that’s a gene on that

even sleeping at those heights it is exhausting

stronger still you can not sleep with

First of all, this is the public camp where we slept

with a second place is the shortage

we do not know exactly how it works, but we can sleep

during the top attempt

there were three days on the road above 7000 meters

aln

do not know the penis three days above 2000 meters

and do not sleep

and then you have to climb a top over green for 18 hours

with a rash of 160 to 180

without three perpetrators every three days and have slept

now that susan is too short has such a huge impact on me

that I now closed so and that the criticism is because then this is

at the training in the alps in the alps römer

about

carriage height with consultation hour

and on the mountain itself to come back with only 50 height with fire

24kitchen slowly

That ensures that you are in the gigantic mental struggle with particular

yourself

there, physically, it is no longer on the body that is just a continent

tell you to leave here this is not good for you this if you are unlucky

did not go well than he might die

it is the only way to continue with your own motivation and the world

climb the summit

I am there at nine there is a fight with an angel, so even a devil

at the training in the alps I did jurist and everyone who says you should

must by you must go through to the top

and the m an angel was the great motivator

and all countries can not of course be a little devil who said to me

it stops easier the safer go nice with members and suffer this pain

passed

for yes

9 is true combat

only formerly all questions on that mountain

the

when

the situation turns around a bag it might become dangerous we have to

maybe why brownish little angel the one who says

go away you have to go down

that is safer

but where is the situation gigaom

so I am the 8000 meter prof

8200 meters all

when a plan is made in advance

logistics

is actually no longer correct according to plan communication did not happen

and the club

he does not succeed well

I thought I should leave here

quarrel it becomes too dangerous the margins are small as that plan too

I did not have to knock down that I thought of myself

Only then did I think when I think of it and those 32 other people who are going

by

damn then I miss something

I was the youngest I was 26 I was the youngest of all those present 33 people

on which to climb the mountain

and I was the youngest after 26 years and also the minister experienced

and so I became uncertain I thought abroad already missing years

are those people even crazier or are I crazy bah against 32

easy calculation

I’ll be crazy

other words I came I can not me

do not make a decision while I really want an objective decision

which make

so what have I done

I have enabled the independent committee

the independent commission this was at the point 82 100 meters

they went to help

in 2007

invited by the nv to go the this way climb the k2 the hangover is the

second highest mountains on earth

86 under eleven meters high

9 with the caller someone on

no no I was invited to the second highest mountain in the world and I had

actually not quite as much experience category itself but experience

the ease of experience for such a high mountain

But on the other hand, it was one then it should be possible to have a career

to get in the air is currently mountain guide and that arrived and that

was of course a big step in that direction

but the k2 is known as the most difficult and the most dangerous mountains

on earth

yes it sounds then didactic methodologically not very useful then with

the hardest dangerous start so then I started thinking about booking

vancouver for myself justify that I am with

the most difficult and the most dangerous begins

and the first question that came to me was what exactly means dangerous

so I started quantifying the risks

but we must not only look at the second mountain than that is the k2

I am just a city secretly watching how many people have died how many

people we have risen to

the first we run into is she has out of the media

but this was not the money a few years ago but headed three young

people on top

eighty people killed you end up at one in three and a half

but of course an extreme figure and you think which kind of thinking person

sonck is now taking on such a risk

all

so I’m a bit further a substance that times broken because luckily I found out

that I was humanity from the media

and in the 3

because with a bit gritty

if you now have the right season, you have to

otherwise you compare something else to people who have done people who are the

top have compared against the offices the number of people who are

passed away

to get a realistic saying you also have to take the people who are the top

have not had and have not died and then get your feet realistic

he found that his are in the right people who might be a good decision

have taken

and is the band that I did then was there was free was the lack that

to get suspicious

it came down to about one in 87

still next a number

but is already twice as good as one in three and half

so that

but that was important to me because I know now is everyone

case which means something dangerous too

pretty dangerous

but then I am going

to come up with plans to keep the dust as safe as possible for myself

and the angles how I could now make the objective decision

my biggest shortcoming in this whole story is the heart that I do not experience

at altitude I had climbed this kind of steep mountains in the Alps

note many styles are still coming but that is not where I am

the not

makady statistics

now that is sick is extreme so I had figured like me

it is not one out of seven

and I want to be on the safe side so make good decisions as

I do not make good decisions then the MDI in the 7 might be one

charge in two out of three

how can that be done?

at 8,000 meters the oxygen did not know the players anymore

difficult to think

so that we are of course a contradiction

so the first thing I’ve done is I am

between goals

writing on

jaap from below upper mountain pickin ‘up underweight fling

the main goal was safety and the next goal is above

and with the intermediate goals

You can achieve your own safety because I can redan it if you have 8 goals

it’s a lot easier

to be dissatisfied if you’ve had seven of the rear wheels

these two thin

it provides a selection if the plan does not go according to plan, but can

look how is that what I can do to almen still on the plan

come in advance

and also provides motivation because it’s what I can do what I get

that provides motivation and the next goal is a lot shorter than than me

just the top

have set a goal

well in addition, I had therefore thought of kick I do not know what my brains do on

height and what we reacted enough because of the lack of oxygen

what I said was 7 percent oxygen

is a bit too short

so I’m going to train with this device very interesting

I borrowed the device from a friendly arch, and with that

the column a contaminated decent portion

that both made the air force away but it strikes me

I have that at home the bank and I myself pushed 10 the comics about that I do

the bank fell unconscious

according to the sports doctor was no problem because you want more on the couch

the module that came out of the mouth was there

m

but it is very interesting because it is

at that time at this level redaction inventions how to go how far

and besides, the deluge of wax can only prove to go too far with it

vehicle nothing was interesting from the sand from top to that moment can

I still think carefully and it was not that there was more than a dash on it

paper came

week had to develop myself full of elsene for myself

then you can not I can not do it anymore but I want all the tests of how

read maths

after I go to Ghent

a pretty good one

feeling developed

and

after very important of course

heule to be able to recognize that feeling

in addition, the statistics showed that most victims in the descent

escape your hairstyle also figured out how

yes if it is safe to keep one even if I make it easier for myself

to make decisions I had to make as many decisions as possible downstairs

have taken where the toys de vries

so from the statistics showed that the descent to the horses most people

to perish

so I also had beautiful me

I do not want a bunch of stupid fat there for the first time at such great heights

climb

that is normal in the mountain athlete that you sleep bad that it should

in any case not consumed, not the opponent had him 8

Take 18 hours

but to descend intel tomcat again is actually also quite normal

only because of my lack in which to a variant that says the German ex

agent

So that meant to me I have to get up before four o’clock in the afternoon

it meant 8 hours it was too dark to descend

well that the very clear hard limit did not come naturally

I do not think anyone who posed finnish

but yes then I also brought out

because I can think so hard and make a difficult decision, I want

as many dangers as possible that you are on that mountain I want to be appointed by

to have

and that’s what you’re talking about

we view authority called objective hazards

I am a mountain guide

then think of that is not so complicated but I have certainly been in the

occupied influence is still quite complicated

the after for one by one experience someone is reasonably easy to estimate

and the gravel service that resigns

you can estimate that a little bit better and therefore in the share that proves that

from this movie pieter hasekamp longer t

but then it is safe to form to another

that is why we apparently have him there who did not sail

they are actually fairly easy to estimate and may therefore be

found that were people who disagreed with his all times of the

takeover and the people

So what do you agree with him you can take the position at a dangerous one

maybe

you can sail all those group processes up to three captains on one ship

the sender storms the other three captains who say nothing because dean the

two are not either

an eu

that may not be as easy to say about it

so I hope she is so weird that I write all of it on it

all go wrong but we could go wrong with everything we were with 11

expeditions 11 study and nationalities

the checks went wrong in the communication here and there you hear something

how an appointment made in the communication is always going wrong

probably also back is secret

those people do not come to agreements

because the logistics go wrong, the pain is no longer my timing

that is the yes that I had in the past a bit later

re-named and written down in the valley so that I no longer have it

need to think what the band applied to then only needed

still on those certain things

to get out of it

Well, and that is the subjective experience and in addition there are also added

to communicate all kinds of thoughts of optimism

This is indeed what you are doing because it is so I think so far

it does sound like euro but climb mountain

but all sides that all this kind of views and this is also what

dangerously the British passions made beautiful views

the top is all about to invest three years in three years

hero and in time and energy in it is still quite

demolished to become strong

gigantic mountain with motivation you need for that

the board that ambition that you have is also a great danger

the likes

jesse is not good

that I had also determined for myself that I really want to but not

too happy

l and then

yes all those thoughts because of the mail I do not want to be a sissy

be for my friends

if I could get upstairs

all they wanted written on because for me and that is not

preventive things if no to watch things more objective decision

the old tie-up mystic thing is irrelevant

well and besides that whole story that I actually actually had done I already had

to make a potential threat to this national recession

you have to make sure that you do

does not make a subsidy in advance says a mountain guide three years ago

from there it also turned out to be skiing

and then real that comes on top of the customers is nice poles slope and then says

everyone yes

we must not do it you should not say yes or no in the first five

collect if you cup the facts together

then you can only make a decision to work psychic psychically

because if you have to cancel year, it turns out that year

so first collect facts and that is where you make your passion decision

Well, when you have collected the facts and I still do not come out of it

so on that day at the top

the English market that people through and did not come through

and then you can make it an independent goalkeeper objective

commission

young catches the commission is fixed itf that actually hangs above

But you will not say what you do in your head

but that will help them to make a good decision

and you just have to simulate an accident so I told him

end of the journey down

in particular, the commission comes as the police say it

Okay miss this in a being these people they have now a ns he has 3 that

independent musician have two outcomes

nine outcome is these people we have made and considered plan to

made informed decisions

but they just had bad luck

but thanks unless we go through

How stupid do you have to be that that risk is accepted in advance

remains anp about two countries on is better that you a on April 7 at 8

but if it is so

that the committee comes with it

these people have made a plan but they do not stick to plans and

they then made a lot of wrong decisions

which means you have to turn around then you have to go down

and that’s in that role

essentially different from your own opinion

but we have the ice expedition so this problem

all these people all those people differ their opinion culture different

languages

a plan was made during climbing

both was

exactly one person who made the final anp that of steam and thought that

emerald people brought edge of a great wall to come

and that was was he was the system someone who spoke both languages ​​out there

about six meters looks like guards who can handle the whole waste of team in the

commercial

I know this so we buy afterwards

but yes, the problems arose as a result of which they could communicate

we

some trust in the wrong place hung up

were invented

in the flat train worth for good road times easier would also hang there no

rope on

and in the sail the terrain in the case of the red there we will surely get one

rope on

if you look closely

the claim iris open around 82 to hang a better that see paw

but it is not true because there would be no quarter

after certainly if you then grab the back to your love between to the goals that

I had asked but also by coming home safely

when it has gone back to the statistics and with 7 opposite in the 8

that you and those statistics will make sure that there is damn little margin

so if you make a plan and 5 percent of the plan is not just right

Which

maybe if you do while shopping and plan 50 cents

is no longer correct

besides not being a problem only here is that perhaps a huge problem

but in the meantime we were once more because the communication was more accurate

because the ropes lowered by the communication were no longer correct

and the logistics group opened our garden because of the logistics

because some solution was by climbing upwards why are now

here

click through down but pick up brooklyn but pick up again on poles

that is tame though it already has more than 50 cents among other things

and so I expected

was inlaid with the finger out tripoli was ps with myself too

do not motivate class

I have myself

and puccini for years

that angel washed was the boss in the German the mission against fighting

and now perhaps the moment had come for the little angel to come for a while

turned around

so only that fight that he was that even if you were in pain

here was the vomiting and you had not eaten three days anp

because very easy to say but I think the end that it marry off

is right

it is true now

she knows 32 people go through the required youngest with the least experience

I was totally certain I had no idea anymore so at that moment politically the

independent committee

it was clear we are going down

Well I am an unwritten rule when he was cheating mountaineering

mountaineering

winter right down three that looks is rather dangerous to a public interest

three days with this plan

the appearance did not appear to me either, I am going to be panel members

is 100 meters

and reassure the mother when the but I did not have any

leave phone with me no one here on a satellite phone that I have a moment

borrowed what my mother called and when there was to be told my mother must

it went completely wrong

what happened already that was the outdoor delay ensured

ice has fallen down, he has also stuck solid language with one

cents of people who have fallen into darkness have gone missing

m

yes and in the end it worked like 11 people died

of this top of these people are still there

the three are killed

of our expedition were every excuse polar expedition was happy but one

someone doll was killed in the paper country

but the

yes of course you can

sick drama

10

Now I often get the question of corner, you can not blame a fouille for yourself

it is a feeling of guilt you do not think you have missed your team

let me go but I myself train the course marines

there is only one thing that comes first than it is the team

but here’s deed because certain rules leave those that leave the print

That

I have I had to justify for myself that I do not have those people alone

let’s go because we all went that way in itself

with all those who accepted statistics

everyone knew what risk with the challenges but also made agreements

that everyone had to decide for themselves to turn around because he has an I am

has a certain risk acceptance

and I have heard my term risk acceptance was reached I am toward

going down I had made an informed decision

and I decided to live it

so if you make a difficult decision

Please contact the independent committee

this was my wife h